All
I have a TL VRX manual only done 85000ks.
Difficult to engage first from time to time.
Can engage if let clutch out after one failed attempt and then try again.
Any one got any thoughts

Check engine mounts.

Sticky clutch plate. Try engaging first gear with engine off (with clutch down) before you start the car. Foot off brake, flat surface. If the car tries to creep forward as you start the engine it's a sticky clutch plate.

Easily fixed it that's the problem.

Has the oil ever been changed?

You may want to give the gearbox a nice flush and replace with some quality oil.

I'm using Nulon Smooth Shift and it's great. Unlike some manual magna owners, I don't have any gear crunching at all (cold or hot temp) and gears are rarely hard to slip into. I've been very impressed with it. I'm also going to add some Nulon G70 during my next service as the cold weather is coming.

Otherwise the bee knee's of gearbox oil is Redline MT90. It does cost a pretty penny at around $140 a bottle and is hard to get your hands on. It's likely that your local autostore won't stock it. Apparently it does wonders to the gearboxes and makes them shift nicely. Like I said, I went for a cheaper $60 Nulon Smooth shift and it has been great.

A cheaper alternative to the Redline which works almost as well would be the Castrol Syntrax. This will set you back around $30 for a 1L and you will need 2.8L's (approx). Otherwise Castrol VMX is the next best thing.

Sticky clutch plate. Try engaging first gear with engine off (with clutch down) before you start the car. Foot off brake, flat surface. If the car tries to creep forward as you start the engine it's a sticky clutch plate.

Easily fixed it that's the problem.

Isn't it normal for a car to lurk forward if it's in gear and you try and start the car? My car, my mums car and my old car always did. IS this actually not normal?

Isn't it normal for a car to lurk forward if it's in gear and you try and start the car? My car, my mums car and my old car always did. IS this actually not normal?

I believe I said WITH THE CLUTCH DOWN. lol

I've never been silly enough to start a manual with the car in gear and the clutch pedal UP, so thanks for the warning. lol No lurking - or even lurching - forward for me!

I believe I said WITH THE CLUTCH DOWN. lol

I've never been silly enough to start a manual with the car in gear and the clutch pedal UP, so thanks for the warning. lol No lurking - or even lurching - forward for me!

I have done it accidentally, makes you look like a right twit lol

You could also try bleeding the clutch system. As our cars have hydrolic clutches this can make a big difference

I have done it accidentally, makes you look like a right twit lol

I usually have the clutch down, even when I've checked it is in neutral, just in case. lol Also makes sure the clutch plate breaks free from the flywheel or pressure plate when you start, if it is sticky, which it can do in wet weather.


You could also try bleeding the clutch system. As our cars have hydrolic clutches this can make a big difference

A good point. OP, where does the clutch take up point occur?

hey mate try a normal gear box oil change if its actually the gear box!

Still no good - run redline light weight shockproof (smurfs blood) in it, bursons stock it and can get it in. Most of the older jap inports use it and its magic. I have an r33 running it, obviously the box is worn but changes gears perfectly with it so i'm happy :)

Thanks all

Some things to work on

My wife's TF has always baulked when changing first to second gears when cold. Once warmed up, it is fine.

Interestingly, the car will try to creep forward IN NEUTRAL eith the clutch pedal up, when the g'box oil is cold and the car is on a flat smooth surface. It tries, but just doesm't have enough drive to get going.

My wife's TF has always baulked when changing first to second gears when cold. Once warmed up, it is fine.

Interestingly, the car will try to creep forward IN NEUTRAL eith the clutch pedal up, when the g'box oil is cold and the car is on a flat smooth surface. It tries, but just doesm't have enough drive to get going.

Try (as suggested above) a different gearbox oil. Some good ones around that will stop this and make the gearbox act like it's new. VMX80 worked for me.