Would it be a good idea to have a sticky thread for common issues and cures to save alot of searching?

Issues like:

-Stuttering auto
1. Change filter and use genuine transmission fluid
2. Reset transmission and ecu by disconnecting negative on battery for 30 minutes
3. Follow the Auto Trans Initial Learning procedure. (LINK (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86194))

-Knocks in front suspension
Possibly bearing top plates, shocks or rose joints on swaybar

-Knocking in engine when cold, which quitens when warm
Sticky lifter.
1. Added Wynns 'Engine Flush', let idle (idle ONLY) for 20-25 mins.
2. Drain oil.
3. Fill up again using Penrite HPR10.
4. Added Wynn's 'Supreme' engine treatment.


-Auto shifter not moving freely
Most likely cause. (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=84673&p=1344976&highlight=#post1344976)

-Washer bottle plastics deteriorating
$125 replacement at Mitsubishi, less at wrecker

-Bulbs in dash blowing, mainly D on auto display
$2 bulb or grab from wrecker, requires instrument panel removal

-Heavy engine vibration, engine movement
Check all 4 engine/box mounts for signs of sagging and cracking. Will need long reach 17mm socket to undo drivers side upper.

-Front bar squeaks
Metal support brackets worn, more common in fog light models due to housing.

-Sticky accelerator pedal
Throttle body issue, clean and adjust

-Wind noise in upper doors/door glass
Door seals worn and require replacement

-Paint coming off wiper stalks
Undo nuts, mark position of blade on screen with masking tape and remove from car
Remove wiper blades
Sand and respray
Reinstall as per masking tape position

-Rattles from parcel shelf/ rear window
Place small pieces of foam underneath shelf via holes under tray in boot

-Fuel Sender unit not working
(LINK (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52489))

-Slow power windows
Window runners are dry and dont have enough grease. Solution is to take apart door and re lubricate with lithium-based grease.
Images on how to remove the door trim and what to grease.
http://imgur.com/c1akg
http://imgur.com/62xe5


-Indicator Stalk not indicating
-Sagging hoodlining
-Wave spring in tiptronic auto boxes breaking, meaning gearbox rebuild or replace

DIY LINKS
Short Shifter (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showpost.php?p=234827&postcount=28) By Cummins Apr 2005

- EL Guage installation guide (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45132) By Magtech 26 Jan 2007

- Parabolics Installation guide. (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=671809#post671809) By Nexus 29 Feb 2007

- Throttle Body Coolant By-pass Guide (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46477) By Magtech 3 Mar 2007

- Handbrake adjustment (at handbrake) (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47549) By Satan 4 Apr 2007

- Air/Fuel Ratio Meter (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46404) By Magtech Apr 2007

- Modifying Ralliart dials for analogue dash (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49590) By Magnatised 11 May 2007

- 2nd Gen Remote Central Locking (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=728558&posted=1#post728558) By Yann89 26 June 2007

- Verada Door Courtesy Lights (http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=52486) By Gas_Hed 21 September 2007

- 3rd gen fuel sender unit replacement (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=766780#post766780) By millert85 21 September 2007

- Clear indicators in one piece parabolics (http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=52560) By kj.ei 24 September 2007

- V6 Cam removal tool (http://www.aussiemagna.com//forums/showthread.php?t=52754) By magna buff October 1 2007

- DIY: TJ boot lid conversion from TE/TF/TH (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55476) By Nexus January 11 2008

- DIY: Climate Control Globe Change in 3rd Gen (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?p=848543) By Lugo March 18 2008

- DIY: Front End Removal (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62516) By DAM-088 November 6 2008

- DIY: Walbro 255Lph Fuel Pump Install (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66713) By EZ Boy April 11th 2009

How To: KE/KF Xi entry to programming mode (differs to KE/KF Ei).
http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/605/remotecontrolimage148o.jpg

I like this.

Remember half those issues are just common faults with cars of this age. Paint will fade, incandescent bulbs will blow.

But for me, the wiper arm paint coming off, I just unbolted mine (see workshop manual) and sprayed black spray paint on it (removed wiper blade first). If that doesn't work, I'll just repaint it :D

I haven't had issues with my washer bottle. But it's easy enough to go to a wreckers and grab one. $20 tops.

The most common blowing bulb in the dash is the "D" light because it's been illuminated for 99% of it's life. If it blows, swap it with any of the other lights. P and L are common.

Yeah, most are common, but in other cars, the same scenario above may mean a different issue. For example, a front end knock on bumps in a magna is 90% going to be a dead shock, whereas in a Commodore of the same age it will 90% be a link pin (bushed rod between swaybar and strut).

VRXs has an evil habit of their front bar squeaking over bumps around the fog light housing.
Wave spring in tiptronic auto boxes breaking, meaning gearbox rebuild or replace
Throttle body getting sticky, causing sticky accelerator pedal
Supercharger idler pulley wearing out... wait, that's just me :/
Door seals wearing out causing annoying wind noise

Add that bloody irritating Y-pipe exhaust growl to the list (pretty embarassing when that echoes through an underground carpark) lol

In my experiences:
Tappet cover gaskets & cam seals don't have a lengthy life.
+1 for weak engine mounts
+1 for hoodlining
4 Speed auto "flaring" between gear changes

I used to have problems with always having to adjust the handbrake in my TF.. BUT now that I look back, I think it may have been too many handbrakies when I was younger lol.
Otherwise my 3rd gens have by far exceeded my expectations of them.

Added a few. Wasnt sure if serious Karj so didnt enter lol.

-Y pipe growl
Install larger aftermarked stereo with subs

Rattles from parcel shelf/ rear window.. pissing me off and have no idea how to fix.

Added a few. Wasnt sure if serious Karj so didnt enter lol.

-Y pipe growl
Install larger aftermarked stereo with subs

lol

That's one solution! :D

The centre console around auto trans, easy to pop out. After fixing my hand brake lever, it is hard to put it back into place and now it's popped out. Will fix that on weekends.

Also the handbrake did not work properly last time(wont lock even on full strength on hand brake lever). In the end change brake disc and will do the pads on weekends.

Knocking yes it's still there even though already changing oil. Is there any additives that can reduce this?

Thanks

The centre console around auto trans, easy to pop out. After fixing my hand brake lever, it is hard to put it back into place and now it's popped out. Will fix that on weekends.

Also the handbrake did not work properly last time(wont lock even on full strength on hand brake lever). In the end change brake disc and will do the pads on weekends.

Knocking yes it's still there even though already changing oil. Is there any additives that can reduce this?

Thanks

Hey mate, I followed Mal's advice following a ticking noise in my wifes TJ2.

1. Added Wynns 'Engine Flush', let idle (idle ONLY) for 20-25 mins.
2. Drain oil.
3. Fill up again using Penrite HPR10.
4. Added Wynn's 'Supreme' engine treatment.

2-3 days later, no more ticking noise, especially on cold morning start up, HAPPY camper :)

Rattles from parcel shelf/ rear window.. pissing me off and have no idea how to fix.

I had this when playing music, it was the back of the parcel shelf bouncing I think. I opened the boot and there's one or two holes that you actually touch the back of the parcel shelf through, folded up a sponge and squeezed it in there, stopped the rattle

I had this when playing music, it was the back of the parcel shelf bouncing I think. I opened the boot and there's one or two holes that you actually touch the back of the parcel shelf through, folded up a sponge and squeezed it in there, stopped the rattle

Thanks mate!

Thanks mate. I'll try to put wynn's engine treatment then.. Just changed my oil 200KM's ago.

Hi mate,

Don't quote me but I think the engine treatment has nothing to do with eliminating the noise.

It's the engine flush that is more beneficial for that, don't really think adding the treatment now would help at all ( with the noise ). Best to wait until next change and try the flush :)

No worries, will edit ;) Happy for any links to threads to add into the list

Not sure if its a common problem as such. I think its more common on 380's.

Temperature gauge reading cool engine however, engine seems very hot?

- faulty thermostat or faulty coolant temp sensor

-Stuttering auto
1.Change filter and use genuine transmission fluid
2.Reset transmission and ecu by disconnecting negative on battery for 30 minutes

Maybe add...
3. Follow the Auto Trans Initial Learning procedure. (LINK (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86194))


oh, and that linked procedure (above) only states the battery Neg needs to be disconnected for 5 seconds, do we really need it disconnected for 30 minutes?

The fuel sender units tend to die too.
There's a good DIY writeup somewhere...

Found it :D (LINK (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52489))

Slow winding windows are usually caused by the runners being dry and not having enough grease. The solution is to take apart door and re lubricate with lithium-based grease.

I will need to do this to my windows soon so I'll throw up a vid and written guide soon.

In the meantime - here is some images on how to remove the door trim and what to grease.
http://imgur.com/c1akg
http://imgur.com/62xe5

Maybe add...
3. Follow the Auto Trans Initial Learning procedure. (LINK (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86194))


oh, and that linked procedure (above) only states the battery Neg needs to be disconnected for 5 seconds, do we really need it disconnected for 30 minutes?

5 seconds should be fine, many manuals seem to give a variance of up to 30mins on many cars for ECU's to lose their memory. I am not an expert, so went for worst case lol.

The fuel sender units tend to die too.
There's a good DIY writeup somewhere...

Found it :D (LINK (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52489))


Slow winding windows are usually caused by the runners being dry and not having enough grease. The solution is to take apart door and re lubricate with lithium-based grease.

I will need to do this to my windows soon so I'll throw up a vid and written guide soon.

In the meantime - here is some images on how to remove the door trim and what to grease.
http://imgur.com/c1akg
http://imgur.com/62xe5

Cheers ;)

Also may be a good idea to add instructions for remote programming to the list of issues people have.

I know for the KE/KF Xi, the method of turning the key on and off to get the car into programming mode doesn't work (apparently it works on the KE/KF Ei models according to other members, but I know it certainly doesn't work for the Xi's). Proper instructions for getting these cars into programming mode can be found here: http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/605/remotecontrolimage148o.jpg

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45652

Cheers TiMi, added on ;)

Also may be a good idea to add instructions for remote programming to the list of issues people have.

I know for the KE/KF Xi, the method of turning the key on and off to get the car into programming mode doesn't work (apparently it works on the KE/KF Ei models according to other members, but I know it certainly doesn't work for the Xi's). Proper instructions for getting these cars into programming mode can be found here: http://img855.imageshack.us/img855/605/remotecontrolimage148o.jpg

Thanks Karj, added.

Hi hoping i can get some help. When I start my Auto TR 1993 Magna, I cant drive it till its warmed up otherwise it stalls and is blowing smoke. When im driving my car surges and when im doing about 100ks and I accelerate the car shudders till i get to about 115kms, Is this the o2 sensor or something else? Cheers in advance

Hi hoping i can get some help. When I start my Auto TR 1993 Magna, I cant drive it till its warmed up otherwise it stalls and is blowing smoke. When im driving my car surges and when im doing about 100ks and I accelerate the car shudders till i get to about 115kms, Is this the o2 sensor or something else? Cheers in advance

what colour is the smoke?

Is there is anything to worry? Is the dealer help me out in the up to date all these things? The few fault you described i was also facing them.Is the company doing any thing to remove the faults

thanks for this thread it has helped me out big time

was hoping to find some info about auto trans "slipping" between gears...

The indicator stalk not indicating could be the hazard light switch isnt plugged in right or is broken, i found this out when i installed a new head unit and forgot to replug the hazard lights back in and i could not indicate.

Heater core and alternator are common ones.

Had to do them both each time in the two 3rd gens i've owned.

Exhaust rusting.
2004 TL wagon: Rust holes appeared at both the resonator end plates. Replaced by exhaust shop with new aftermarket part, $210 charged.
2001 TJ sedan: same middle section, from cat to rear muffler. Thought I would do this one myself. This time there was a big rust hole just before the joint to the rear muffler, but most of the noise was coming from the front resonator. Front plate had let go of the pipe, plus small rust hole in front plate at bottom. Replaced with Redback part, $179.
Not a difficult DIY job, used spray to loosen rust off bolts and nuts, also used on rubber hangers to make them slip off and back on.

Both replacement sections have hotdog style resonators, ie no separate end plates, so may last longer. No heat shields or earthing straps on them though.

Still havent been able to fix my rattling 3rd gen parcel shelf or rear window. Its shocking while it settles.

Not sure if same problem as mine but my previous tf sports also slipped. was rectified with trans oil change:)
was hoping to find some info about auto trans "slipping" between gears...

Still havent been able to fix my rattling 3rd gen parcel shelf or rear window. Its shocking while it settles.

Did you change the rear window seal?
Mine rattles/squeaks as well and I think it's the seal that needs changing.

2003 mdl...trying to replace the fuel sender, broke the plastic connector at the top of the tank. Never seen one of those before, now i'm in a bit of trouble. Can i buy a hose with connections (from filter to tank) from a place like repco? or do i have to buy genuine part only? Later i found out how easy it is to remove that type of clamp, i removed the hose from the filter and it come off so easy after i had read the online instructions!!
I removed the 6 nuts at top of tank to replace fuel sender. But after all nuts removed, i feel like something is stopping me from pulling straight up to remove sender. I didnt want to force it, fear that i might break something. Is there a way to remove it? twist or turn the unit out of the tank? Or just pull up?
Help needed! thanks!

Unexplained coolant loss, strange smell inside, excess condensation inside. Removed heater core, core was excellent, problem is neoprene O rings on plastic elbows goes hard and coolant leaks out down inside under carpet on passegers side. With mats you don't notice the wet carpet. You can unbolt the heater unit and rotate insitu to get the core out without degassing the air-cond.
PeterN

Wavespring in 4 and 5sp transmissions and tcl solenoid problems (brings up "Check engine light" and "TCL OFF" light on dash)

This thread is great thanks. Anyone know if there is a DIY guide for the wave spring? And/Or part information etc....

This thread is great thanks. Anyone know if there is a DIY guide for the wave spring? And/Or part information etc....

There is thread here about someone who did the swap DIY to his Galant AWD. The process is the same:
http://www.ozvr4.com/threads/8035/

Hydraulic Timing belt tensioner. Has death rattles on cold start up goes away after 30sec. Ok when warm.

Not sure if this qualifies as common, given I've had a bitch if a time finding anyone else that suffers with the issue, but our 05 TW has started knocking and shaking when your accelerate and decelerate, and tends to be at its worst when the engine is warm. All the obvious issues, like tyres and fluids, have been looked at and aren't the problem. Doing my head in. Seems to have baffled our local mechanic too.

Anyone with advice or experience with a similar issue gets a cookie*







*cookie may not actually exist

Is the TW AWD?

Hydraulic Timing belt tensioner. Has death rattles on cold start up goes away after 30sec. Ok when warm.

MadMax? advice if it rattles badly turn the car off quickly - wait 10 seconds and restart - if there is no rattle the tensioner is shot

MadMax? advice if it rattles badly turn the car off quickly - wait 10 seconds and restart - if there is no rattle the tensioner is shot

If I said that, it is only me repeating what Mal (Madmagna) has said.
See if I can find a link . . . BRB

No joy, it's somewhere.

Is the TW AWD?

Not the AWD.

Anyone with advice or experience with a similar issue gets a cookie*

*cookie may not actually exist

Engine mounts or ignition coil.
No Cookies? OK then!

Reposting in right thread?

My windscreen washer hoses/tubes whatever they are called need replacing. I get f' all water pressure coming out. DIY fixes haven't done much help. It could actually be the nozzle attachment (under the bonnet) that connects the tubes. They don't hold in place properly. Any ideas on parts or can this be a yum cha ebay solution?

Reposting in right thread?

My windscreen washer hoses/tubes whatever they are called need replacing. I get f' all water pressure coming out. DIY fixes haven't done much help. It could actually be the nozzle attachment (under the bonnet) that connects the tubes. They don't hold in place properly. Any ideas on parts or can this be a yum cha ebay solution?

Might not be the hoses. Between the washer tank and nozzles there are some one-way valves, they're relatively easy to spot. These could get blocked eventually, and while I've never had the issue you're describing, I can see how these one-way valves may be contributing to the issue you describe.

Might not be the hoses. Between the washer tank and nozzles there are some one-way valves, they're relatively easy to spot. These could get blocked eventually, and while I've never had the issue you're describing, I can see how these one-way valves may be contributing to the issue you describe.

Awesome thanks. I might upload a video with said issue if checking this fails. I think it might be more due to the fact the tubes aren't staying in place into the washer nozzles and tape/super glue help a bit they eventually cease.

I had a similar problem a little while ago, the tubes kept coming off. Must have softened or expanded. I just cut a small piece off the end of the hose and then connected the newer end and it was a much tighter fit and they stayed on. Just a thought.

The hose can be bought by the meter. Also, any "T" pieces in there can be replaced by going to a pet store, aquarium pumps use the same size hose and "T" pieces.
Use a needle to unclog the holes, can also be used to adjust where they squirt.

I had the same problem a while back with the tube on the pump popping off every time I'd go to use the washers. Small cable tie solved it and haven't even thought about new hose yet lol.

I had the same problem a while back with the tube on the pump popping off every time I'd go to use the washers. Small cable tie solved it and haven't even thought about new hose yet lol.

Yep cable ties worked both for my car AND my aquarium air pumps when the U/V from the light made the plastic go hard.

Put some in your glovebox, handy for breakdowns - zip up an exhaust, zip up a radiator hose, hold bits of bodywork on, zip tie the kids in place when they play up......

Just did the "replace the T piece" trick on my TL under-bonnet washer hoses. Original just broke off all by itself. Found a spare that I must have bought years ago when my TS washers acted up the same way.
Had to shorten the hoses a bit for the above reason.

I don't suppose anyone has mentioned the steering wheel foam letting go of the steel frame inside it?

Just did the "replace the T piece" trick on my TL under-bonnet washer hoses. Original just broke off all by itself. Found a spare that I must have bought years ago when my TS washers acted up the same way. Had to shorten the hoses a bit for the above reason. I don't suppose anyone has mentioned the steering wheel foam letting go of the steel frame inside it?

I broke my t-piece as well. So I printed one.

http://i.imgur.com/5DHe3hB.jpg

i used one off a Hyundai seemed to be better plastic

I don't suppose anyone has mentioned the steering wheel foam letting go of the steel frame inside it?

Yes, I've come across this. My parts car had this problem and I asked about it; apparently it happens every now and then. I was told that, if you don't want to replace the wheel, then an auto upholsterer or similar might be able to inject a glue into the foam that will fix it up.

Can I add:

For those with Traction Control, the TCL solenoids getting sticky or failing (resulting in 'TCL Off' and 'CEL' lights) - solution is to replace the solenoids on the passenger side firewall.

For wagons, leaking rear quarter windows - solution is to disasseble window and reseal.

Leaking rocker cover gaskets - solution replace the gaskets and plug tube seals.

Fuel smell inside car - could be a number of things but check the purge solenoids (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105501&page=1)

I'll add one solution here:

Remote fob battery holder falls off
Wrap electrical tape cut in half down the middle around holder and board

I just want to know how to disassemble the rear light cluster for the TJs so I can get a few pet spiders out from between the indicator and clear plastic.