Hi, I didn't realise how much has been said about Castrol Magnatec 10W-40 for 6G72 and 74.

I'm currently experimenting with oils atm, I was using Penrite 10W-40, I just changed oil then so I haven't really experience a real cold start as yet, but so far, it sounds smoother than the old oil. I know when I first put the Penrite HR15 in my engine, it was noisy but it revved it's head off most of the time.

But just wanted to know whether Magnatec will actually be bad for the engine in any way?

I use magnatec only in my dohc 24v 6G72 now...not a problem at all

im gonna change my oil on the weekend, with Mitsubishi Diamond Care Oil. The stuffs actually ment to be pretty good.

im gonna change my oil on the weekend, with Mitsubishi Diamond Care Oil. The stuffs actually ment to be pretty good.

I seriously doubt it's anything more than a decent brand of mineral oil that's been relabeled.

Hi, I didn't realise how much has been said about Castrol Magnatec 15W-40 for 6G72 and 74.

I'm currently experimenting with oils atm, I was using Penrite HR15 (also a 15W-40), I just changed oil then so I haven't really experience a real cold start as yet, but so far, it sounds smoother than the old oil. I know when I first put the Penrite HR15 in my engine, it was noisy but it revved it's head off most of the time.

But just wanted to know whether Magnatec will actually be bad for the engine in any way?

G'day. Castrol Magnatec will not do any harm to your motor,

When i used Magnatec a couple of years ago i noticed that after 3000kms the oil lost it's viscosity and when you have a cold start its really rattly and even after the engine warmed up a bit it it was still nosiy.

I then opted to MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC which was the best oil i used at the time, even after a 10000km service it came out gold just like the color it went in and still pretty thick and even on a cold start it was quite.

I went to Mitsubishi and asked then their opinion on which oil(s) were good to use and they said to me not to waste my money on Mobil 1 and other expensive oils as they use Castrol GTX-2 and GT-X 3 in their workshops in Magna 4wd etc....

So at the end of the day its really up to you and how much you want to spend on engine oils.

For me i'd rather spend that little bit extra and get Penrite HPR-15 or Shell Helix. And if possible service at 5000km intervals instead of 10000kms & 15000kms Intervals.

Cheers
John

im gonna change my oil on the weekend, with Mitsubishi Diamond Care Oil. The stuffs actually ment to be pretty good.

I went to Mitsubishi and asked then their opinion on which oil(s) were good to use and they said to me not to waste my money on Mobil 1 and other expensive oils as they use Castrol GTX-2 and GT-X 3 in their workshops in Magna 4wd etc....

I've been using Castrol GTX3 and I'm happy with it.

I think if you use any of the decent brand mineral oils (with the appropriate viscosity rating) and change regularly (7500klms) you can't go wrong.

MagnaTec = Good For Magna

For KB's DOHC.... go something better!!!!! PAUL!! No MagnaTec for you!!!

So at the end of the day its really up to you and how much you want to spend on engine oils.

For me i'd rather spend that little bit extra and get Penrite HPR-15 or Shell Helix. And if possible service at 5000km intervals instead of 10000kms & 15000kms Intervals.

Cheers
John

Thanks John,
I had the Penrite HPR-15 in there for only 4000km, I changed oil this afternoon, it came out pretty dark! hehe.... either my motor is getting charcoled or the oil is getting burnt very quickly. Don't know how long Magnatec will last for in side this Oven (my motor). I have no problems with temperature, well to my knowledge anyway from watching the temp gauge.

anyway, I'm changing oil very regularily now anyway, Just gona use Semi Synth, I can't afford changing $60 every 5000km. hehe....

Thanks John,
I had the Penrite HPR-15 in there for only 4000km, I changed oil this afternoon, it came out pretty dark! hehe.... either my motor is getting charcoled or the oil is getting burnt very quickly. Don't know how long Magnatec will last for in side this Oven (my motor). I have no problems with temperature, well to my knowledge anyway from watching the temp gauge.

anyway, I'm changing oil very regularily now anyway, Just gona use Semi Synth, I can't afford changing $60 every 5000km. hehe....

Yeah i cant justify spending $60 on Full Synthetic.

GTX3 or GTX2 is fine.

Cheers
John

A good mechanic once told me that its not real good for your engine because, yes, its sticks to moving parts so they're covered in oil when you first turn the key BUT what they where finding was that in a lot of cars the oil was actually clogging up other parts of the car. Oil pumps etc i think is what he was talking about. It was along time ago and all i remember him saying is that although its good in the sense the moving parts are covered in oil at start up, the harm it will do else where makes it not worth it... :confused:

I changed oil this afternoon, it came out pretty dark!


That's a good sign, means that the oil is working well to clean and lubricate your internals....

i change oil every 10,000K and only use Mobil 1,

I normally buy it when its 20% of at Kmart/supercheap/autobarn etc.

never had any problems with Mobil1 what so ever so i am happy.

But still its expensive.

DONT USE SYNTHETICS!!!! I used a synthetic (magnatec) and it sutffed my engine... knocking etc. Magnas dont like synthetics... keep with the minerals.

there's alot of different opinions out there, confusing me now, haha... I guess I'll just try it out myself and see what happens in 4000km later, then I'll make my own mind up whether it was good or okay or bad.

so Nick, you said that when the oil comes out dark is a good sign, is it really???? isn't it a bad thing to have dark oil coming out? I thought it meant that it's too hot for it or something.

Me dunno, Me just try, Me find out the long way... the Fun way. :D

I use GTX-3, not GTX-2 because of the viscosity rating.

so Nick, you said that when the oil comes out dark is a good sign, is it really???? isn't it a bad thing to have dark oil coming out? I thought it meant that it's too hot for it or something. :D


I kind of thought the same,

the darker the color of oil means engine is not well taken care off.

Having black oil is not a good sign, It means the oil has either burnt, is way past it's used by date and is at anytime ready to break down. After oil turns black it turns to goo, goo clogs up a engine,

I change my oil every 7,500km, and it comes out quite clean, I also use fully synthetic, Penzoil in fact. Synthetics are not bad for your engine as one has stated, but the engine has to be in very good condition befoer you start to use it. If you use it in a old clagged out engine you will have problems.

As for magnatec, we don't use it we have had problems with it both in Magna's and Lancers and even a few commodores we have worked on.

MagnaTec = Good For Magna

For KB's DOHC.... go something better!!!!! PAUL!! No MagnaTec for you!!!

It works fantastically, so why change?

you guys have no idea what you are missing out on. My suggestion is try Motul. If you don't like fully synthetic, then try Motul 4100 Power. If you are serious about your car and want to use the best, then try Motul 8100 Xcess.

These are not supermarket oil like Mobil 1 or Castrol, you will only find Motul in selected stores. I think Autobarn and Motorquip have them. These oil is so good I have to send them to interstates for people who can't get them. They solved my lifter problems. Saved me $1100, plus I gained a bit of power out of it too. Surprising, but that's what the dyno said.

Anyway give it a go, and you won't look back. :)

you guys have no idea what you are missing out on. My suggestion is try Motul. If you don't like fully synthetic, then try Motul 4100 Power. If you are serious about your car and want to use the best, then try Motul 8100 Xcess.

These are not supermarket oil like Mobil 1 or Castrol, you will only find Motul in selected stores. I think Autobarn and Motorquip have them. These oil is so good I have to send them to interstates for people who can't get them. They solved my lifter problems. Saved me $1100, plus I gained a bit of power out of it too. Surprising, but that's what the dyno said.

Anyway give it a go, and you won't look back. :)


Then how come me, and probly a few other ppl, have never heard of it before? You'd think advertising would come into the equation at some point, how much does this super oil retail at?

Motul is not heard of so often is before it is mainly targeted at the racing scene.
Check their site and look at places other than australian v8 racing where they use parts the cheapest they can find and whoever has more money to sponsor them.
You will find these oils are used in alot of japanese race cars, rally cars, le mans, superbikes, supercars, Indy, Ferarri, Porsche, Vipers and alot more. The world is bigger than just local advertising.

Anthony is right... and just because you hear it more doesnt mean its better.

I hardly see or probably never see Bentley advertise on TV... but they are definately better cars than our magnas.

Can i use motul in my Mountain Bike?

hahahahaha

I thought id try magnatech in my VRX this time to see how it goes. It seems to do the job nicely. My opinion is steer away from fully synthetic oils like Mobil 1 as they are too thin for our motors and stick to a good mineral oil. I would rather spend half as much on oil and change it every 5,000kms then spend up on mobil and change it every 10 - 15 thousand kms.

Im religous about my 5000kms oil changes lol

There are many factors which affect the life/performance of oil.
Engine condition - tappet noise, crankshaft wear affecting oil pressure etc.
Service frequency - short drives abuse oil more than long ones, cos unburnt gasoline during "chocking" tends to mix with oil.
Use good quality oil and don't keep them longer than 4-6 months - regardless of kms, depending on driving.
Viscosity requirement is basically depending on the engine wear, the more worn donk, the thicker oil is required.

And unlike John Laws, don't drink Valvoline, it is not the best drink in the world.... :bowrofl:

There are many factors which affect the life/performance of oil.
Engine condition - tappet noise, crankshaft wear affecting oil pressure etc.
Service frequency - short drives abuse oil more than long ones, cos unburnt gasoline during "chocking" tends to mix with oil.
Use good quality oil and don't keep them longer than 4-6 months - regardless of kms, depending on driving.
Viscosity requirement is basically depending on the engine wear, the more worn donk, the thicker oil is required.

And unlike John Laws, don't drink Valvoline, it is not the best drink in the world.... :bowrofl:


hmm somone that knows oils :)

one more thing to add to this thread is

magna's (mainly v6's that i know of) have a nasty habit of wearing out cam bearings , and the problem with that is that they dont have bearings , what i mean is the cams sit directly in the head and therefore once you wear that out, its replacemnt head time which = many $$$
so the moral to this story kids is change your oil regulary, 10,000 is way too many (even for synth) even 7500 borderline, i'd recomend 5000 if you want to keep your heads (and rest) in good condition when the engine gets old

Motul is a well known and respected brand in motorbike circles. I use it in my bike and it really is good stuff.

OK my three cents.

I used Magnatec in my 2.6l and got glazed bores from it. However I have run it in a SR20 and it worked OK. I then had the 2.6 rebuilt and ran GTX2 after the motor was run in and got tappet noise. I switched to GTX3 and the tappet noise is gone.

Motul is expensive. If you want synthetic then use Mobil 1 as it's cheap and works very well. I have run it in my R33 and highly recommend it for these engines. I have also tried formula R in my Soarer and recommend that in high boost turbo applications but it's hellishly expensive.

Motul is good. Expensive. Try Fuchs, also good oil thats got as much research in it as Motul at a lower price.

If you are super keen on oils have a read of

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

They do a lot of testing on there of oils and filters.

Motul is expensive?!?!?! Not sure where you are buying it from or comparing it with. Motul 4100 Power is $40 (most Magna and turbo cars use this) and Motul 8100 Xcess is $50 (most high performance like 200SX or 350Z use this). Both are cheaper than Mobil 1 (for example). I hardly see that as expensive.

Yes, as a couple of you have said, Motul doesn't advertise much because it's well known in the racing circle and that's what they aim at. Jackson's example with the Bentley is perfect. You won't find their product at supermarket or BigW. But you will find them sold at racing shops, at the race track and even Autobarn. They started with GP bikes, then in the Touring Cars. It's huge in Eurpoe, only just recently years came to Australia. It's now huge with V8 racing cars. I know a couple of the leading teams with Mobil sponsorship secretely use Motul for their brake fluid and also engine oil. :)

Killer is absolutely right, you should change oil often. I mean, why bother with putting filter and extractors on your car if the inside of your engine is stuffed?!?! :nuts:

I change oil ever 5000km (more likely 2000km as I don't drive it often before 6 months), and it's been serving me very well even with the amount of punishment I put it through. Those who knows what I do with my car knows exactly what I mean. :badgrin:

I was at 2000km oil changes with the Verada, as it was really clattering by then. The TP's every 5000, using GTX-2. The Golf's using Safeway, but that's because it leaks oil above 3500 rpm, so it's topped up every trip. (Emission controls don't control emissions anymore... :redface: )

bloody hell that is some consumption Gav!!! :shock:

i just changed to the fuchs stuff that germans stuff seems to not to rattle seems to be nice i have no problems with it

i dont like castrol personally it is like putting in a hose from ur garden tap and turning it on

Hmmmm - I'm not doubting u on this one. But I guess it just shows how different oils perform in different types of engines. Very complicated thingi this oil, eh.
GTX3 15-40 has lower rating, than GTX 2 (20-50). Perhaps GTX 2 was bit too thick on new. tight engine?

But Magna cams have no bearings??? I haven't checked the books, but. Really? That's so b-dy Russian that nothing else is. I cannot believe...... :shock:


I used Magnatec in my 2.6l and got glazed bores from it. However I have run it in a SR20 and it worked OK. I then had the 2.6 rebuilt and ran GTX2 after the motor was run in and got tappet noise. I switched to GTX3 and the tappet noise is gone.
.

Quote
But Magna cams have no bearings??? I haven't checked the books, but. Really? That's so b-dy Russian that nothing else is. I cannot believe......


Huh ? Is this in English ?

if there's no bearings then what's supporting the camshafts? :nuts:

Duct tape


It's like the force, it has a light side and a dark side and it binds the universe together :D

A friend of mine has acguired a workshop that services Mercedes fleet vehicles, and the existing mechanic swears by Fuchs (i think that is how it is spelt) as the best oil.
anybody else (besides bigdan, acually BTW what rating/type of Fuchs did you use?) had any experience with it?

A friend of mine has acguired a workshop that services Mercedes fleet vehicles, and the existing mechanic swears by Fuchs (i think that is how it is spelt) as the best oil.
anybody else (besides bigdan, acually BTW what rating/type of Fuchs did you use?) had any experience with it?

Hey whats this Fuchs stuff where can i get it?

I used to only use magnatec in my magna's but refuse to put it into my 3.5 now - i noticed a lot of tappet noise on cold starts and even sometimes when the engine was warm..
i talked to a mate that works at ultratune hq and he said theres something about the magna lifters that dont like the magnatec - he did actually give me a more technical reason but i cant remember.
I still run magnatec in the 2.6 astron though its an excellent oil but aparently something with the 3.5 design isnt good with magnatec.
my 0.2c

I went into autobarn (mile end, sir donald bradman drive) before my first oil change to grab some magnatec but forgot to check what viscosity i needed before going into the store :slap: I asked for some help from the guy, asked what magnatec did and if it was any good. He said it was alright for a stocky family car for the money, but i wanna treat my car a bit better than that n asked what was the best value for money oil.

He said to get the Motul 4100 Power ($40) as it is excellent oil or to go the Motul 8100 Xcess ($60) for performance cars (like some owned by people who work at the store). So thats what i did and no problems.

Cheers,
Cam.

good to see that you are using Motul. you will love it. :)

:bowrofl: :bowrofl:




Quote
But Magna cams have no bearings??? I haven't checked the books, but. Really? That's so b-dy Russian that nothing else is. I cannot believe......


Huh ? Is this in English ?

alrite guys so let me get this straight....Its ok to use mineral oil as long as u change it every 5000kms? or should u use semi synthetic..im not so fussed i just dont wanna pay for something that isnt needed

this is my opinion, if you're going to change oil every 5000km or less (like myself), you can use anything as long as it is the right grade and right viscosity. I am personally trailing different oils at the moment, and so far i have concluded that 10W - (whatever) is too thin at cold starts, and i'm going to put something slightly thicker in next, eg 15W - 40 maybe.
This only applies to my car, you may want thinner oil eg 5W-30 for yours if your engine is really new and tolerances are tight, but i know i've got about 160,000km on the clock, so 15W is probably right, but anyway, it's fun, test a few and make up your own mind, that's if you have time. if you don't, then stick to the brand names.

I'll try something else on next oil change. I've been wondering about this Magnatec and the possibility its creating some kind of "layer" on the the metal surfaces. Questionable whether it is relevant or not, but as a thought...
I'll try fully synth next time and see (hear) what the tappets say.
Has anyone found K&N's for 3. Gen yet. They do them for 2. Gen (don't ask....)
But - stick to good brands no matter what.


alrite guys so let me get this straight....Its ok to use mineral oil as long as u change it every 5000kms? or should u use semi synthetic..im not so fussed i just dont wanna pay for something that isnt needed

Has anyone found K&N's for 3. Gen yet. They do them for 2. Gen (don't ask....)
what.
You talking filters?? If so yeah they make em you just have to get the flange for it to fit.