Anybody have any info on the topic?

my front drivers caliper is sticking so i was thinking of geting one of those repco minor brake servicing kits and having a crack at that, but then i shall need to refit it to the car and im not entirely sure of how to go about bleeding the brakes.

i should also say that the brakes have only rescently been machined (~1000kms) and the front rotor is lumpy like a v8 idle. is that caused from a sticky caliper?

any help on the issue would be awesome :D

(also sorry if in the wrong area :| )

What do you mean by lumpy? Does it vibrate when you apply the brakes?

As for bleeding the brakes - it's pretty easy. Get a brake bleeding kit from SupercheapAuto. I originally bought the SCA brand one with the little bottle and I didn't like it so I later bought the more expensive "Vizibleed" kit. It uses a one-way tube instead and I like it better.

Now I'll tell you what to do but I take no responsibility for any potential damage from doing it yourself. Remember you are dealing with a braking device in a car that's capable of high speeds, and if it does go wrong then the consequences could be dire. If you're not confident take it to a professional, read up more on it or get a mate whose done it before. Maybe even someone from the AMC WA division might help if you offer up a nice case of grog. I've done it myself multiple times but I always warn people about the dangers.

Procedure:
1) Take off brake fluid reservoir cap and remove fluid using a syringe. Put rags and coverings around the area and make sure not even a drip of brake fluid touches paint. If it does, wipe immediately as brake fluid will eat paint right down the metal. Clean out reservoir if needed.
2) Fill reservoir with DOT4 fluid.
3) Then jack up the back passenger side wheel. Remove wheel. You always need to bleed the further brake from the reservoir first.
5) On the left side of the calliper will be a small nut with a little hole on the top - this is a bleed valve. This where you connect up the bleed kit. Put the end of the bleed kit tube in a can of brake fluid.
4) Get an assistant to sit in the drivers seat and push the brakes when you ask. Make sure they do not push the brake to the floor or else they could ruin the seal.
6) Connect brake hose/kit and turn the nut slowly and only a small bit. These can be really hard to move if car has alot of dirt in the area - so consider dousing the area in WD40 first. You don't want to sever the threads or the head of the bolt.
7) Get a spanner and use the closed end. Get your assistant to push down lightly on the brakes to about half way. Open the valve about a 1/4 of the way. Once you've opened the bleed valve, then get your assistant to hold the brake pedal. You should see fluid come out. Ask them to start pumping the pedal until all the old fluid is out and you can see the new fluid coming through the tube/bleed kit. Also insure there are no air bubbles going in or coming out of the valve. After I seen new fluid - I got my mate to push the brakes about 4-5x and all I seen was clear fluid with no air bubbles which was great.
8) Close bleed valve. Refit wheel and you're done with that wheel.
9) Check reservoir and fill with fluid when its below half way.
9) Repeat above for rear drivers wheel, then the passenger wheel, then drivers.

And done! Take for a test drive and take it easy. Should brake a lot better now ;)

Interesting read above, perhaps just bleed them normally as above would take a week to do and would not work anyway (btw Lhs is closer than rears lol)


To be frank, brakes either save your life or take it away, if unsure please get someone experienced to assist or get it done professionally

Your rotor issue could be also poor machining

thanks for the help guys! :D the rotor is lumpy as you run your finger over it outwards from center. i have a mate with a workshop that could assist with the process, but i would still rather know how to do it myself for the future :) originally i took it to mitsubishi to get them to fix the issue, but when i got it back the issue had gone for a few days before reappearing (after all four were machined)

so siphon the liquid in the reservoir and top up with DOT4, is the fluid in the lines pushed out the bleed valves or up through the reservoir aswell? just making sure but sounds like bleeding it out. this would also explain the furthest wheel first? also, are there any seels or things that would also need replacing at the same time? or it should just be fine?

thanks again :)

A week to do? Umm I did it in about 1-2 hours and that was my first time. How it would not work? It worked for me. Before I had old fluid in the lines, followed that procedure and ended up with new fluid and brakes weren't spongey anymore.
My method is pretty much what every service manual instructs.

Good on you for taking 2 hours for 20 mins work

Simple, if you are bleeding brakes, do front first. Goto an auto shop and get a cheap bleeding bottle or make one. Attach bottle, open nipple and around 10 steady pumps will be sufficient on each side. Top up fluid, repeat on back then use the other hour to catch up with a couple of episodes on neighbors lol

As for scoring on rotors it does not sound like a sticky caliper as you would be getting smell and smoke. Sounds like a pad issue or the rotors were not machined