Soo I was just redoing my intake piping and relocating my battery to the boot.. got everything reassembled, albeit ghetto looking, but functional.. fired her up, and it ran rough as all guts.. flaring idle, struggling to hold revvs.

First discovery was that the BOV was constantly venting, even from idle. I'm not an expert on these things but I'm pretty sure that it shouldn't?

Second discovery is that my AFM, which I discovered had a cracked casing on the circuit board a month ago, when unplugged resulted in the car running perfectly. This leads me to believe that the AFM has failed, would I be right to think this?

If this is the case, what do it do, drive it with the AFM plugged in, unplugged, or don't drive it at all? Ideally I really need the car for the 150km round trip to work tomorrow so what are my options?

Also in case it matters,the oil pipe from my catch can is temporarily running atmospheric.. as is the BOV.

Oo my mate just pointed out that the Morristech ECU has a manifold vac line.. so this should do the job of the afm amirite?

And while I'm at it... does anyone know if I actually need an AFM with the Morristech ECU?

For anyone playing at home: Morristech ecu has built in MAP sensor and AFM is only handy for keeping the engine light on your dash off. Epic wins all round!

You still need the AFM to run with the moristech. The afm is still inputting data for the engine to run - airflow, temp, etc. the moristech just modifies the signals, and the MAP input is just a tuning reference for the moristech so you can have the PSI Vs RPM tuning map. If it was a standalone ecu it would be ok to delete the AFM, but moristech is just a piggyback.

If it runs without the AFM it's prob going into some sort limp home tuning map from factory.

BOV is ok to be open during idle, as is the catch can, but only if they're not letting out air that's already been metered by the AFM,if so then it'll do exactly what you were describing - stalling, hunting idle etc.. what's your intake piping setup?