Hey guys, I was browsing the Car Audio section before and I tried to find a custom boot installation for us 380 owners. I couldn't find anyone who'se fibreglassed/parcelled their boot. Has anyone here done it before? I'm after pics of how it roughly looks because my audio gear is just all attached to seperate mdf enclosures and it looks ugly. I plan on doing my own mould over the next

I wasn't sure if awareness would pass more in the 380 section or car audio.

Currently have dual Alpine Type R 12"s, if anyone has them in a 380, the magnet's a bitch to clear anywhere in a box and sit nicely in the boot :happy:

I'm interested to get some info on this also.

Just a quick update - I have started the fibreglass panels in the boot; going on both sides of the corner closest to the boot where the wheel arch is.

http://i47.tinypic.com/2n0u1ol.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/15zjaf6.jpg
http://i50.tinypic.com/b9hpj6.jpg
http://i48.tinypic.com/e1f69h.jpg
http://i45.tinypic.com/2v1njuu.jpg
http://i47.tinypic.com/2n83p6e.jpg

I'm leaving the mould to cure until tomorrow. Then, going to add an extra layer before getting rid of the offcuts.

Oo nice. I have a question for you. Bit unrelated. But with your current setup are the subs hooked up to the stock headunit or do you have an aftermarket one in there? If stock, did you have any problems installing in terms of inputs/outputs. Is there any issues I need to keep in mind when attempting to install my own. Not sure if it has all the right inputs or if I need to buy any extra wiring or plugs.

Update:

Currently have laid 5 layers of fibreglass so the mould is strong enough to bring out of the car. Will be placing MDF 12" Rings for surface mount tomorrow, not flush mount. Rods will be holding these in place...contemplating whether to screw it in place of the mould or use industrial glue..will have to see.

@DJChozen91: I've got an aftermarket headunit. If you're after the stock look, then any amplifier with the Hi/Lo outputs can support using the stock headunit. I don't know exactly which output wire's you'd use on the wiring loom but many people have done this before so just refer to the "Car Audio" section of the forum. If you're after decent sound quality, I'd just buy a 2DIN headunit because they have RCA inputs which retains higher sound quality I'm assuming. Cheap as chips too these days.

Pulled the mold out last Sunday and trimmed the mould to size. The conventional fiberglass enclosure method is to use rods and MDF rings of the sub circumference and bind it to the frame. I have used a trial method of creating a MDF face of the box to roughly the cutout and will sheet the mould over it. I don't see how this will have any less strength, but please offer your experiences doing this if you have!

The circle is not perfect, but it fits with my sub, so doesn't matter really.

Already sheeted it but no pics. Fibreglass final outer layers tonight and tomorrow.

http://i49.tinypic.com/4hxw08.jpg

http://i49.tinypic.com/35lcio4.jpg

Looking good. Just wondering if u needed to worry about the depth of the enclosureoto get the best bass response etc, or doesnt it matter?

@BlackWhite: Yeah it does matter. This box is half the size of my other one. This box roughly measures at 1.15cu. My other box is 2-2.5cu for my big type R. Whenever we make enclosures for our subs, we need to take into account manufacturer specs of size. If we go too small it can create a distortion on the overall sound and won't achieve it's maximum potential. Best way to test is to use packing peanuts to determine volume.

One enclosure is near completion: 3 layers of fibreglass on the outer side of the box and not a single soft point in the box. Will add 2 more layers before doing the stand test :L\

http://i48.tinypic.com/519eno.jpg