Hey guys, first post so be kind. Purchased Kenwood 2x12" subs and KAC-7204 Amp and planning to install in my 97 TF on weekend. Any thoughts on whether to face the subs forward into the back of the passenger seats, or rear ward into the remaining boot space?

I'm doing the upgrade in stages, so hooking this gear up to factory CD player, then when funds permit, getting new head unit and speakers.
I've read several posts re getting the 4AWG power cable through the firewall and hopefully can find a grommet I can use.

My question is the +12V trigger wire. Since this install doesn't involve taking out the head unit (yet), I won't have access to hook up the wire to the back of the unit.

Where would be the easiest, place to pick up +12V?

Factory head unit won't have rca outputs to connect to an amplifier. does the amp have inputs for speaker cable?

Yes. Amp has speaker level inputs, but I'm not using these. I have a 2 channel speaker level to line level converter with RCA outputs. Was told this would give better sound quality than the high level inputs, just means I have to run a trigger wire.

The 2 channel speaker level to line level converter does the same job as the HI level input on the amp, its harder the way you are doing it, I'd reckon the High Level in's built into the amp would do a better job than most aftermaket Hi level converters.. As the amp company wants to keep the signal clean, not some cheap ass addon a salesperson want to sell you..
Save running a trigger too!

And the subs have are???

Hmmm... Speaker level inputs was my plan A, but when I picked the gear up (i bought it 2nd hand) the seller didn't have the High Level Speaker Level cable which has the special shaped connector to fit the amp. I've tried contacting Kenwood spares several times to try and get one, but haven't had a response. I have contacted a couple of the car install places around Adelaide but they could only help me with the level converter, meaning I have to run a trigger wire... sigh.

I don't really know what the subs are, and haven't had a chance to unscrew them from the sealed box to find out. All I know is they're Kenwood (got Kenwood printed on the cones) brand and 12".

Why not just wait til you get the new headunit? That way you can connect the amps via RCAs (preferrable), and you can hook up the trigger directly to the trigger wire to the headunit.

Just a heads up, I'd be checking out the ohms on those woofers, it will have a lot to say about how you write the things up, or weather you run two or just one. Kenwood makes a lot of for ohm woofers, resulting in a final load of 2 or 8, depending how you wire them. You might end up not running bridged...

Trigger wire - you could just use the main power to the amp as a trigger, but then it will always be on.
Put a switch on that and you can manually turn it on/off when you need. If the amp will be in the boot, you can extend this switch up to the drivers seat, but please put a very low rated in-line fuse where the +ve branches off the 4AWG cable as the main fuse may be rated higher than the flammable point of the small wire. :)

Use your line-leve to RCA converter and enjoy your music now. It might not be the best, but you already plan to replace it. Just make sure your wiring is neat and secure - you don't need to create anything ugly or dangerous.

Thanks for all your help guys. Got it all installed. As expected the hardest thing was to find a grommet in the firewall to get the power cable through. After peeling all the carpet back in the passenger foot well, found one which had a massive clump of cable loom going through it. Used a screw driver and carefully punched a hole in it and routed the cable safely to the battery.
Big thank you to Ministry of Bass Car Audio on south road Adelaide who helped heaps with all their advice, specially the part about connecting the +12V trigger wire to the back of the cigarette lighter, turned out to be pretty simple in the end.
I've disconnected the 6x9" rear speakers and have the LPF set at around 100-110Hz. Ended up firing the subs backwards. Facing forward produced tighter, punchier bass, but facing backwards gave much greater volume and oomph.

Not sure what the ohm rating is on the subs, but running the same setup as previous owner, which is 2 channel amp running one to each sub (enclosure has 2 inputs, 1 on each). Not perfect by any stretch, but so far the best $160 I've ever spent :)

One more thing. The black earth cable is a few inches, short preventing me positioning the sub up against the back of the rear seats, while still being able to get onto a decent earth point on the floor of the boot. Does anybody know if you can buy longer earth cables separately? Thanks again, Richard.

Yep, earth cable is just cable - visit your car audio shop or Jaycar, probably JB HiFi etc.

This might be the right one: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WH3066
$9 per meter for 4AWG.

Cheers Oggy, Yep, that looks exactly what I'm looking for. Off to Jaycar on the weekend. :)

Hi All, It's time for part 2 of my project which is to replace the head unit. I've decided to go with the Kenwood KDC-U556BT head unit for its bluetooth cababilities. The current factory unit in my '97 TF is a double din sized CD, Cassette Tape Player and tuner unit where as the Kenwood is only a single din unit. I've mangaged to purchase a second hand factory pocket from a wrecking yard out of another magna which will fill up the space. Regarding the wiring, I'm told I can purchase Mitsubisihi to ISO harness and ISO to Kenwood harness for around $15 each which will save a bit of time and effort.

One question I have is when using the wiring harness', where/how do I connect in the switch wire which goes back to the boot for the amp which powers the subs?

Another concern I have is how to get the dash apart to gain access to get the factory unit out. I've watched a couple of youtube videos, but any heads up from you guys would be much appreciated.