Like my other thread about transmission and TC oils; I now want to understand what the recommended engine oils are and the pros and cons. The AWD is coming up for a service and I notice that the oil is dark black. I'm surprised because I had this done only about 8000 kms ago just after I bought it. They used "Magnatec".

What's everyone using/recommending?

Magnatec is a cheaper oil but don't be too worried if it comes out black... It probably is taking with it all the grime in your engine. If you want a better grade of oil try penrite's full synthetic range. A bottle of hpr 10 will set you back about $55.

Fully synth 5/10w-40 penrite

Oh dear...

Search away.. There's a HUGE thread on Oils with a plethora of information!

SuFz :ninja:

Thanks for the replies guys. What's Magnatec got in it - magnets?
Sounds like the Penrite is good stuff.


Oh dear...

Search away.. There's a HUGE thread on Oils with a plethora of information!

SuFz :ninja:
Thanks GONE, I'll do a search... If anyone knows where it is please post a link.

I have several engines here I have changed which have been using Magnatec and they are smokey old things most with under 150k on them. There is another Magna Wrecker I sell a lot of motors to which have commented the same thing.

Have no idea why but for some reason motors with Magnatec in them seem to start blowing stem seal smoke, perhaps something in the oil is hardening the seals

There are a couple of Vic Forum members who have found the same thing, one in particular we flushed several times to try and reduce the smoke, is a KJ with under 200k on the clock

Personally I will only use Penrite, always have always will

Magnatec is a cheaper oil but don't be too worried if it comes out black... It probably is taking with it all the grime in your engine. If you want a better grade of oil try penrite's full synthetic range. A bottle of hpr 10 will set you back about $55.

I retail HPR10 Full Synth a little cheaper than tha lol

I use Mobil 1, as has my old man in all the car's he's owned. However, I've only heard good things about Penrite, and there's a fair chance I'll start using the HPR10 full synthetic one day (as it's a bit cheaper than Mobil 1).

Kendal - Long Live The Engine

http://www.conocophillipslubricants.com/

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92617

Thats the poll that was run..

A little bit of useless info and a heap of useful information in there..

SuFz :ninja:

I use Penrite HPR5 (5w40) synthetic, and I find it great - and relatively cheap as I pay about $39-40 from Repco with my RACQ discount.

I might rob this thread for a sec.

In my LPG veradas, I use penrite hpr10 GAS.

Now for the extra $15, would I be better off switching to the hpr10 full synthetic, as the gas one is only semi syn?

Any thoughts?

I only ever use either Mobil 1 or Shell helix ultra Synthetic oils. No dramas with either of them.
Anyone's thoughts on Royal Purple? Some say it's the duck's guts.

I only ever use either Mobil 1 or Shell helix ultra Synthetic oils. No dramas with either of them.
Anyone's thoughts on Royal Purple? Some say it's the duck's guts.

Heard it is the best, also heard it is very over-rated. Wouldn't bother with it considering it's uncommon. Couldn't see even if it was amazing how it could be much better then the proven oils in our engines.

i use Valvoline 10/40 :) my oil is never black because i don't wait that long:happy:

Royal purple isnt that great. Its made itself a good name but those in the know (bobtheoilguy) dont rate it.

My next oil change will be with the best oil you can get, diester based Neo synthetic oil. Good for 25,000km

I ran magnatec in the 2.6 2nd gen
I think I had more oil smoke at the track day than some guys had tyre smoke =\

I've used Magnatec for 7 years in my 1999 Magna. 410,000 on the clock, no issues. Car is also on LPG which is cleaner on the engine too. Bought the car with 270,000 on the clock so that's around 25 oil/filter changes in that time. I always change the filter and usually make sure the oil is changed at 7,500 intervals.

Flip, this issue about Magnatec that MadMagna raised and TiMi commented on is terrifying. Thanks Waynevb14 for posting opposite experience which helps to reduce that! Anyone else have experience with long term use of Magnatec?

Regardless, I will switch to the Penrite. I didn't pay attention about oil brand/product on the KH before. I've had the KH since new, so 12 years now (wow) and it's got nearly 200ks on it. No smoke, runs beautifully, but it's probably had a mix of brands over the years. One thing though, I have diligently changed the oil at least every 10ks, sometimes more often. Maybe it never had MagnaTec in it, possibly.

Is there a procedure to completely replace the old engine oil? Or is a drain and fill sufficient to get all the old oil out?

Ex-member Ezyboy on here ran magnatec in his supercharged AWD and ended up with spun big-end bearings. He blamed the oil after stripping it down and seeing the damage.

Is there a procedure to completely replace the old engine oil? Or is a drain and fill sufficient to get all the old oil out?

if you change oil regualrly, there is little reason
To flush. In fact on an old engine it is recommended to not flush it as you can loosen deposits in the oil galleries and cause damage. If you do want to do a flush, run a cheapish oil through the motor for a few hundred Ks then drop it and refill with good stuff. New filters as well obviously

Ex-member Ezyboy on here ran magnatec in his supercharged AWD and ended up with spun big-end bearings. He blamed the oil after stripping it down and seeing the damage.
I searched older threads here and quite a few members say good things about the MagnaTec, which makes me feel less terrified, but I won't risk it given MadMagnas advice, above. I'll switch to the Penrite, synthetic over mineral.

I was asking about how to replace the engine oil to get rid of all the MagnaTec. I wouldn't call this engine old given its only got 34ks on it. I don't think I need to flush it with any chemicals though, I'm thinking just a couple of drain and fills should do it, right? The MagNatec has been in there for the past 8000 k's and I don't know what before that.

No need to run a cheap oil through your motor, you are defeating the use of a good oil

I use the Wynns flush on my and my customers cars here, have used it for over 20 years now and swear by it. This not flushing old motors is a load of rubbish, have done it so many times and onyl had good results. I always do this, better to keep it clean now than have to try and clean it out later

The Magnatec thing seems mainly to be on the J and later motors, I assume that there may be been a different stem seal material used perhaps either way, I know of several J and L series motors with stem seal smoke and the common thing with all of them is Magnatec oil.

To add to this..

The last 3 oil changes, I've used Motul oil and had no dramas. It is a little more expensive, but I find start up she's a little quieter, in comparison to when I used other oils.

My choices are Penrite or Motul.. I dont flog the life out of my car, although she does get a spanking once in a while.

My mechanic looked at her last month and commented on how clean & healthy the motor looked, however he said he could only see so much as he didnt pull the motor apart, only did a few gaskets.

I actually brought this question up yesterday at work and a few of the other assessors here and also customers constantly brought up Penrite & TRW, saying that they swear by them and wouldnt use anything else. Im talking about customers with 61 Chevy Impalas, 83 Porsche 911, Lotus Exige, Buick Ninety Eight, Lincoln Continental, VE Commodores, VL Calais Turbo etc.

So different cars, different people - Two brands that constantly came up when talking to them

SuFz :ninja:

Used royal purple for 300,000ks, never had a hint of smoke. Changed it every 15,000ks aswell

We're talking about Penrites fully synthetic product right? Is there any issue with that potentially leaking past the Verada seals because it's thinner than the hybrid?

As for the flush, I understand that stuff converts the oil so it easily runs out of the engine... Will it all drain out tho, won't some stay in there? I'm thinking I should flush it, refill and then drain it again?
Also, what's the risk of damaging the engine while that stuffs in there and it's idling? If the viscosity drops it cant protect the moving parts?

The wynns flush has been used all over the world now for over 35 years, perhaps longer. In some really extreme cases I have left motors idling for an hour or longer. A few cased I have driven cars with the stuff in but you really have to know your limits

I think to be honest you are way over looking the whole set up of oil, viscosity and how a flush works. Yes there will be a minute amount left in the system but really almost none and given you are putting say 300ml into near 5l of oil, the remaining amount is next to nothing.

It is up to you if you wish to run the flush, I do, does not mean it is right. I do this becuase I have seen results with these things. Draining oil twice however is way overkill

Thanks Madmagna. I've done a lot research today and spoken to Mitsubishi head office, Castrol customer service and Penrite technical support.
I've also read a bunch of threads here and on a few other motor forums and I've researched SAE, API and synthetic versus mineral based oils.
I've decided to go with the Penrite HPR5. I've chosen Penrite based on the recommendations of the members here. I think that HPR10 would be great as well, but Penrite specifically recommend HPR5 for this car and that's based on the expected temps we have here and the SAE rating being more relevant, but it's not a super critical difference. Recently we've had some very low temps here so the HPR5 product does make sense.
I won't use the Magnatec anymore based on the recommendations here, just to be safe.
Synthetic is definitely the way to go as the technical benefits are clear; primarily more reliable temperature control and far less impurities.
On the question of the flush, there doesn't seem to be any real risks in using it, the overwhelming information on the web is that it's a plus and we have our own Madmagna's expert recommendation as well. I feel it will help to remove some of the built up deposits more efficiently than simply doing more frequent oil changes would. Certainly I have not seen any recurring problems mentioned about engine flushes and the people I spoke to could not identify any problems either.
I will do the flush, drain/fill and drain/fill (so double drain and fill) as that reduces the risk of old additives/oil/detergent left behind after the flush. Overkill? Maybe, but small price to pay to mitigate the risks.
Only problem is availability of getting this done as everyone is booked up for some reason and I want this done ASAP. I did find someone who can do the flush for me tomorrow and I've got the second drain/fill booked for Saturday.
I'll then do the next couple of services at 5K intervals and by then I expect the crankcase should be nice and clear and this issue resolved.
After that I'm going to do the servicing every 7Ks which should ensure longevity of the engine components over time. I think the recommended intervals of 10Ks is just too long, based on my reading of all the pros and cons.

You will save yourself a tonne of money if you do it yourself. It is really very easy. Just get genuine filters and sump nut washer from Mitsubishi parts

You will save yourself a tonne of money if you do it yourself. It is really very easy. Just get genuine filters and sump nut washer from Mitsubishi parts
I wish!

A no time,
B no suitable workspace,
C no way to dispose of the oil (see A)

I really should have changed my oil for this winter but i haven't driven very far to justify it haha, still running sin5 and it hasn't reached over 15 degrees :/

have been using Valvoline Synpower Engine Oil
http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Valvoline-Synpower-Engine-Oil-5W-40-5-Litre.aspx?pid=100341#Description
with a k&n oil filter seems to do a pretty good job

We all love an oil thread!

Years ago I got a Mazda rotary rebuilt that I'd previously been running Castrol in exclusively. When I collected the motor, the rebuilders specifically said something like "If you continue to use Castrol in this engine then the warranty is void" I asked how he knew I'd been running Castrol, and he said the evidence was inside when they stripped it down, sludge and wear. Many years ago, and no doubt numerous new formulations, but you remember these things.

I've been using Mobil 1 5/50 in my VRX @ 15k intervals since 20k, and just did the 195k service. No oil consumption, and no smoke, and no oil issues yet. Its a country car, so limited stop start, and rarely does less than 20 kms once started. Also switched the kids TJs to the same upon purchase at 110k and now at 160k with changes at 10k as they are more a town car. Dunno what they'd had in them before I got them.

Until I get 4-500k up I won't really know whether the M1 was a good choice or not, but so far, so good.

Steve

We all love an oil thread!

Years ago I got a Mazda rotary rebuilt that I'd previously been running Castrol in exclusively. When I collected the motor, the rebuilders specifically said something like "If you continue to use Castrol in this engine then the warranty is void" I asked how he knew I'd been running Castrol, and he said the evidence was inside when they stripped it down, sludge and wear. Many years ago, and no doubt numerous new formulations, but you remember these things.

I've been using Mobil 1 5/50 in my VRX @ 15k intervals since 20k, and just did the 195k service. No oil consumption, and no smoke, and no oil issues yet. Its a country car, so limited stop start, and rarely does less than 20 kms once started. Also switched the kids TJs to the same upon purchase at 110k and now at 160k with changes at 10k as they are more a town car. Dunno what they'd had in them before I got them.

Until I get 4-500k up I won't really know whether the M1 was a good choice or not, but so far, so good.

Steve

Funny you mention the Rotary, in my past life I used to work exclusivly on Rotaries, I had the same policy, only my policy was for Penrite oils only. IF a customer used Penrite I gave a 3 year unlimited KM warranty, if Shell or Castrol was used warranty was void. Especially Castrol back then used to have a very bad reaction to the oil control ring "o" rings, they would go hard and cause what we would see as being similar to valve stem seal smoke. Also there would be a lot of glazing on the end housings as well.

+1 for Penrite.

My family, thats full of mechanics all use it and have for ages. When I had the Sigma i always ran Penrite and couldn't kill it, always put Penrite hpr 10 int he Magna now

i have used nulon the oil is still clear since changing a few months ago, made in sydney australia

Thanks Madmagna. I've done a lot research today and spoken to Mitsubishi head office, Castrol customer service and Penrite technical support.
I've also read a bunch of threads here and on a few other motor forums and I've researched SAE, API and synthetic versus mineral based oils.
I've decided to go with the Penrite HPR5. I've chosen Penrite based on the recommendations of the members here. I think that HPR10 would be great as well, but Penrite specifically recommend HPR5 for this car and that's based on the expected temps we have here and the SAE rating being more relevant, but it's not a super critical difference. Recently we've had some very low temps here so the HPR5 product does make sense.
I won't use the Magnatec anymore based on the recommendations here, just to be safe.
Synthetic is definitely the way to go as the technical benefits are clear; primarily more reliable temperature control and far less impurities.
On the question of the flush, there doesn't seem to be any real risks in using it, the overwhelming information on the web is that it's a plus and we have our own Madmagna's expert recommendation as well. I feel it will help to remove some of the built up deposits more efficiently than simply doing more frequent oil changes would. Certainly I have not seen any recurring problems mentioned about engine flushes and the people I spoke to could not identify any problems either.
I will do the flush, drain/fill and drain/fill (so double drain and fill) as that reduces the risk of old additives/oil/detergent left behind after the flush. Overkill? Maybe, but small price to pay to mitigate the risks.
Only problem is availability of getting this done as everyone is booked up for some reason and I want this done ASAP. I did find someone who can do the flush for me tomorrow and I've got the second drain/fill booked for Saturday.
I'll then do the next couple of services at 5K intervals and by then I expect the crankcase should be nice and clear and this issue resolved.
After that I'm going to do the servicing every 7Ks which should ensure longevity of the engine components over time. I think the recommended intervals of 10Ks is just too long, based on my reading of all the pros and cons.

I read your concern regarding the flushing of your engine and I would like you to go to this site www.auto-rx.com and read about what I consider is the correct way to flush an engine.
I did put into consideration what they claim that the product can do and I decided to give it a go BY ORDERING 4 BOTTLES US$ 93.08 + P&H US$ 43.65 = US$ 136.73 (US$ 34.18 each).
I own a Verada KW GTVI AWD II 58800 km and after having read all the problems that go around with the wave spring in the AUTO/TRANS I believe that I can use this product in my AUTO/TRANS and after that a simply oil change will do the job. The good thing is that there will be some remnant of the product that will stay in the box working in there forever. The company clearly states that if I want to do a flushing, I have to do it before applying the product and after that to follow the procedure before mentioned.
I hope that these humble lines might be able to give another insight in what you, I and perhaps some other Magna/Verada owner/s might consider to be a very important issue regarding the care of our ENGINES AND AUTO/TRANS.

Any company who states that it is safe to leave a flush in an engine or trans is, well, not one I would deal with

The idea of doing 3000 miles with flush in a motor is scary at the least and 99% of companies who make flush state clearly not o drive with the flush in the motor

Mits trans are very unique in the materials internally so use this at your own risk

Last oil & filter change I've gone with the Penrite HPR10 synthetic as per the recommendations from people like madmagna.
Previously using either Mobil1 or Shell helix ultra fully synthetic.
So far so good and enjoying the minor cost saving also ;-).

Penrite HPR10 is tried and tested as high quality synthetic oil. I have always used it and I use it in all 3 of my cars.

Question about the level shown on the dipstick, how critical is that?
Currently when cold it shows my oil level as a little high, about a cm over the max mark.

Question about the level shown on the dipstick, how critical is that?
Currently when cold it shows my oil level as a little high, about a cm over the max mark.

Drain a bit off. There is a reason the top mark is called 'MAX'.

Too much oil and the crank will turn it into froth, making your oil the equivalent of using washing up bubbles to lube the engine

Question about the level shown on the dipstick, how critical is that?
Currently when cold it shows my oil level as a little high, about a cm over the max mark.
When left standing overnight, ensure that you remove and wipe the dipstick then reinsert it again to check the level. Obviously the car must be on a level surface.
Just removing it in the morning and checking the level is not accurate.
If it is still 1cm too high perhaps you could drain some out or if it is less than 1cm just change the oil filter without priming it.

Id check it when warm first.. the oil moves around alot when driving so check it after its warm

Yeah but when standing for an hour or two after driving is good because what's actually in it has gone back to the sump.

Doesnt that defeat the purpose? The concern is overfilling the engine so when the oil is still coming through the heads aswell its more accurate to how it is when the car is running? Just discussion thats always how I look at it. Its like checking tyre pressures when the cars cold. Pretty pointless. Am I wrong? Tell me if I am

I think it's a few mm less than 1cm, but still clearly over the max mark.
I assume that when it's cold the oil has fully drained into the sump and the level on the stick is then accurate?
I guess the measurement procedure would have been determined by the engineers?

I overfilled mine the other day. I read about the best oil on here and bought a Penrite full synthetic at Superdouche Auto for <$40. I put a bit too much in it and I can tell you it's staying there.

Too much oil and you get too much crankcase pressure and you can blow a seal or gasket. You can also get cavitation and other unpleasant things happening inside. If nothing else the increased internal pumping losses will increase fuel consumption.

1 or 2 mm over max is probably OK, but 1 cm is too much I reckon.

I always check my oil levels when cold, when its all drained down from hot, then there is no need to wipe the dipstick either, because its drained off that as well.

Check tyres cold, and then hot, and if the hot pressure is more than 4 psi, or 10% more than cold, you need more cold pressure. Altitude makes a difference too, and ambient temps.

1 cm over is no problem. I often do this when changing the oil on an oil burner, so I know it's good for a while.

All I know is I always have mine right on full or a mm or 2 over, never had an issue with tht small amount, nothing worse then taking corner hard, oil sloshing to one side of the sump and missing pickup, blowing the engine.

Last oil & filter change I've gone with the Penrite HPR10 synthetic as per the recommendations from people like madmagna.
Previously using either Mobil1 or Shell helix ultra fully synthetic.
So far so good and enjoying the minor cost saving also ;-).

**Update** On Penrite HPR10
Being winter now I've gone with the Penrite HPR5 fully synthetic.
Seems to agree more with my engine as the HPR10 I think was too thick.
I've had the odd occasion when I started my car after leaving it for most of the weekend and it ticked horrendously for what seemed like 5 seconds. I've never had this problem with either the Mobil1 or Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetics.
Also, I've always checked the oil level on the occasions that this happened and the oil level was always near full as my car doesn't burn oil as such.
Oil & Ryco filter changes for me happens every 5000 - 7500kms. Engine gets flushed with wynns. KMS: 120,000
So based on that, I won't be using the Penrite HPR10 again.

I've never had this problem with either the Mobil1 or Shell Helix Ultra fully synthetics.

I agree, I have been using Castrol Edge Titanium 5w40, and more recently Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 and am pleasantly surprised with the results thus far.

Oil & Ryco filter changes for me happens every 5000 - 7500kms. Engine gets flushed with wynns. KMS: 120,000...
Thats fairly frequent isnt it?
I've been using the HPR5 full synthetic for a while now and happy w it, it runs fine.
Actually the car is about to hit the big 50k mark :( but i have no idea what it had in it before i bought it, 25ks ago.

Interestingly i never had an understanding of the importance of oil grade/quality before and the KH has only had whatever the dealers used for all those years. Recently i made sure it had HPR10 and it seems to be ok with it. Its got over 200ks now and im led to believe the slightly "thicker" oil is better for rhe older engine.

hmm i use the Mitsubishi genuine oil now its green in color.

hmm i use the Mitsubishi genuine oil now its green in color.

Mate im pretty sure thats only for the first thousand kms when an engine is new.

Thats fairly frequent isnt it?
I've been using the HPR5 full synthetic for a while now and happy w it, it runs fine.
Actually the car is about to hit the big 50k mark :( but i have no idea what it had in it before i bought it, 25ks ago.

Interestingly i never had an understanding of the importance of oil grade/quality before and the KH has only had whatever the dealers used for all those years. Recently i made sure it had HPR10 and it seems to be ok with it. Its got over 200ks now and im led to believe the slightly "thicker" oil is better for rhe older engine.

My oil & filter change intervals are more frequent than what the service book says yes. I do this out of choice & not out of necessity.
Old Sh**ty oil is often the main culprit of engine failures, and frequent oil changes with premium synthetic oils is the reason why my engine looks like new with 120,000ks on the clock.
In high KM engines, thicker oil is often recommended as it usually reduces oil consumption, blow-by & engine smoke due to it's higher viscosity.

All the same I was suprisingly disappointed with the HPR10. So far it has been the worst oil I've used in my car. Hopefully, the HPR5 fully synthetic will be better, otherwise I'll go back to Mobil1 or Shell Helix Ultra Fully Synthetics & ditch Penrite altogether. I only gave the Penrite consideration again for the first time in years based on the feedback of other members here.

I remember years ago when I used to use Penrite's mineral based HPR70 in my old HK Holden & V8 Commodore & I'm adamant that the quality of that particular oil dropped significantly.
Back then I tried several replacement oils before settling with the STP 50 plus which gave the best combination of flow, protection, longiveity & consistency for the old pushrod V8's & red motor 6's I was driving at the time.

I agree, I have been using Castrol Edge Titanium 5w40, and more recently Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 and am pleasantly surprised with the results thus far.

Ammerty, I've never been a fan of Castrol, they've always seemed to be inferior performers of the big name brands. Personally, I'd just stick with the Helix Ultra as it was always a good oil in both my TJ exec & KJ AWD.

Ammerty, I've never been a fan of Castrol, they've always seemed to be inferior performers of the big name brands. Personally, I'd just stick with the Helix Ultra as it was always a good oil in both my TJ exec & KJ AWD.

I agree with you in terms of Magnatec products (I never used it on the Magna, my Elantra hated it), but the Edge stuff seems to be pretty good. Coincidentally, I bought more Helix Ultra today on sale for $52.

I use Penrite in all of my cars as it seems the Mechanics I have spoken to recommend it, HPR5 is expensive but worth it.

I used Penrite full synthetic 10W50 last oil change based on others' recommendations too. I won't be using it again since the belt tensioner on cold days doesn't pump up for 3-4 seconds. The tensioner was fine before I put that stupid oil in it.

I have to say I am somewhat wary of deviating from manufacturers' recommendations when it comes to engine oil, and precisely this type of thing is why. Every morning the belt rattles. There was nothing bloody wrong with it before. I like to change my oil and filter every 5000 on this car (so I'm not a typical mechanic) and I put about 5000kms every 3 months and a change is due soon. I won't be using Penrite again (nor will I be recommending its use).
Even though I am risking deviating from the correct oil :) I will try a Shell 5w full synthetic for 5000kays and see what happens.

Interestingly my last car was a an R31 Skyline that I had for 6 years and the tappets always rattled at idle. Another mechanic mate told me to put Magnatec in it to shut them up. It worked! That high mileage motor used about a litre of oil per 1500kms and I only ever changed the oil once a year, so the Magnatec would get diluted pretty quickly. Off the ticking would go again. Put fresh Magnatec in it after a year and it would be fine. Went on like this for the 6 years it was mine and the four years before that when it was a customers car they just always rattled. It was a fantastically reliable car and still could be but it needs $2.5k spent on it fixing lots of small things (and a head reco with new lifters). I bought my AWD Verada and put the $2.5k towards that instead.

I just did an oil change on my TJ friday, according the book it had magnatech oil (the previous owner was good and wrote what oil he used) and on start up it rattled and carried on for like 5 - 10 seconds. I dumped that out and put in the Penrite HPR10 based on the recommendations here and now I have no rattles or tappet noise at all on start up, even after having the car sit for 8 hours up in the snowfields on sunday, when she started up not a single rattle.

Guess it proves not every car is the same!

I used Penrite full synthetic 10W50 last oil change based on others' recommendations too. I won't be using it again since the belt tensioner on cold days doesn't pump up for 3-4 seconds. The tensioner was fine before I put that stupid oil in it.

.

Erm....what does oil have to do with a tensioner... I suspect another issue rather than the oil

Victa twin thinks this is a true hydraulic tensioner, that runs off the engine oil pressure. (more common in larger engines and most engines that use chain driven cams.)

But in this case, the cam belt tensioner has its own internal supply of fluid, it has nothing to do what oil you run in the engine. It's more like a spring loaded hydraulically dampened cam tensioner.

Final word on this thread: Best oil is clean oil, in the viscosity range specified by the Manufacturer.

/end thread.

..Final word on this thread: Best oil is clean oil, in the viscosity range specified by the Manufacturer.

/end thread.
I dont think so MadMax. The bit of research i did really pointed to full synthetic as being better, because its more consistent in its properties than hybrid or mineral.

As for brands, I'm still happy with the Penrite HPR.
Also, a few members here claimed poor experiences with Magnatech.

Whats obviously just as important is how frequently you change the oil out. I'm currently working on a 10k cycle which i think is a good mix of performance/cost.

Cheers for that edification MadMax!

I have to admit I have never had anything to do with Magnas professionally. Belt was done by previous owner very recently so February at 145000kms (I've only had the car since March and it now has 156kms on it) but obviously not the tensioner. It was all done for the Roadworthy as the rocker covers and cam seals were leaking and the belt wasn't changed ever. So based on what you say re the tensioner, the Penrite is probably OK after all. I have noticed the rattling doesn't occur when it is warmer, so maybe I should put a new tensioner in it. We'll see.
Also, mine has never had any tappet noise when cold (or any other time) in the 6 or so months I've owned it.

I dont think so MadMax. The bit of research i did really pointed to full synthetic as being better, because its more consistent in its properties than hybrid or mineral.

Yep, synthetic is better. How do I know? Lent my son a Sigma with a brand new motor (full rebore, new pistons, rings, crank grind, etc) with Mobil 1 in it. Block cracked on him, welsh plug popped out, but he drove it 15 km further on with no coolant. Didn't seize, but the head cooked and there was a nice gap between the block and head when I got to it. Another dead Sigma motor! I think that was about the time I was ready to give up on Sigmas. lol
Since then I haven't bothered with synthetic oil, why have a perfectly good engine in many years time when the car dies for a different reason? Now, if you are running a Taxi 50 to 100 thousand km per year, it's a different story.

I pay a fortune to get my car serviced the way I like it, part of that is asking for good oil and coolant and fluids, why not? I do maybe 20000 ks a year if im lucky and I still would rather go with the best products so my car runs better and lasts longer

Its important to use a quality oil, you don't need to go over the top, however changing it regularly, and in shorter periods is equally important to me. I find my mileage is usually less, 10K per year, so I am changing oils more often.

Yep, synthetic is better. How do I know? Lent my son a Sigma with a brand new motor (full rebore, new pistons, rings, crank grind, etc) with Mobil 1 in it. Block cracked on him, welsh plug popped out, but he drove it 15 km further on with no coolant. Didn't seize, but the head cooked and there was a nice gap between the block and head when I got to it. Another dead Sigma motor! I think that was about the time I was ready to give up on Sigmas. lol
Since then I haven't bothered with synthetic oil, why have a perfectly good engine in many years time when the car dies for a different reason? Now, if you are running a Taxi 50 to 100 thousand km per year, it's a different story.
Wasn't a HM engine was it?
About 5 or 6 years ago I had a recoed Diesel Toyota 2.8 that seized. Similar thing. Popped a welsh plug, cooked it and totally scored the bores. In fact 2 pistons had cracked gudgeon pin piers the motor got so tight :). The cylinder head was stuffed. A massive crack in it.
So I get the sump off and here's the thing - none of the bearing caps matched the connecting rods at all. We're not just talking mismatched from the same engine, we're talking from a different 2.8 engine entirely. Worse, one of the connecting rods was so poorly treated there was a big knick in the machined bearing surface of the big end that pushed into the back of the bearing shell, that then scored its crankshaft big end journal leaving a circular gouge in it. This was not the cause of the seizure but still a DISGUSTING lack of competence or care. I wonder who they have there assembling motors? They must've gone to the monkey enclosure at the zoo for their day release labour supply. One wonders if they checked the ring gaps or the piston clearances?? The motor was only 9 months old.

Is Magnatec the only Castrol oil which is bad for the valve stem seals?
I bought 3 bottles of Castrol Edge Titanium 5W40 (Repco special) and plan in doing an oil change in a few hundred km.

I have HPR10 in there now but have nothing to compare to though I feel my lifters after warm have gotten louder with the HPR10

Is Magnatec the only Castrol oil which is bad for the valve stem seals?
I bought 3 bottles of Castrol Edge Titanium 5W40 (Repco special) and plan in doing an oil change in a few hundred thousand km.

I have HPR10 in there now but have nothing to compare too though I feel my lifters after warm have gotten louder with the HPR10

I've used Castrol Edge Titanium 5w40 recently, during which I did a 2500km return trip from Ipswich to Mackay, and I found it fine.
I too bought a bottle while it was on special last week and will use it after I use up my Shell Helix Ultra 5w40, which I still have a couple bottles of.

Though you may want to consider changing your oil sooner than 'a few hundred thousand km'. I've heard that's no good for longevity...

It was a typo, I meant a few hundred km :)

Using Penrite 10 RACING.
engine is smooth, responsive and quiet.

Penrite, always Penrite....HPR 0 or 10, quality, value, performance.

HPR10 is too thick for 6g7 motors in some winter climates here. That certainly was the case with my engine.
I've done nearly 5k on the HPR5 now which included a few test n tunes. HPR5 seems to be a perfect Synthetic for stock/mild Magna V6's.
Thin enough to flow well from start up in the cold & good enough viscosity to handle summer heat.
I wouldn't say it's any better than Shell Helix ultra or Mobil1 though (personally I still think Mobil1 is the pick of the bunch but it's the dearest) - Just my opinion.

Hmm, i'm still using the HPR5 (Penrite) but now that the weathers warming up i wonder if its going to be good enough or whether a higher grade is necessry?

Hmm, i'm still using the HPR5 (Penrite) but now that the weathers warming up i wonder if its going to be good enough or whether a higher grade is necessry?

Its fine

Its fine
Yeah, you're right, its been all good even through the hot weather.

I still use HPR 10 in mine and also in the Mother in Laws TH.
Because I rarely drive mine, I just keep with the same weight and viscosity, regardless of weather.
Pretty soon I'll be doing a service on the Puddlejumper (Yaris), going to see how that goes with Penrite as it currently has Valvoline.

I have always used Mobil 1 5W since 2002. However I thinking of changing and from what has been said on here I might give Penrite a go. When I used to race I always used Penrite HPR 50 and was a huge fan of it.

Been very happy with the penrite HPR5 fully synthetic so far. For the time being I'll be sticking with it.

Hmm, since the last change i've noticed a bit of increased tappet/lifter noise on a cold start in the morning.
If anything the weather and temps have been warmer, so not sure whats up with that.
Oil level is fine. Maybe the viscosity is changing with warmer conditions.
(Penrite HPR 5w40).

Hmm, since the last change i've noticed a bit of increased tappet/lifter noise on a cold start in the morning.
If anything the weather and temps have been warmer, so not sure whats up with that.
Oil level is fine. Maybe the viscosity is changing with warmer conditions.
(Penrite HPR 5w40).
This went away on the next change. Weird. Still happy with the Penrite HPR5.