I was thinking about getting a K&N filter for my TS with a double throat weber. Would it be worth the $190 or whatever for the canister and element? Actually is that a reasonable price because I dont think the person that gave me that price had a clue.

I want a bit more flow in the top end because its running a tad rich at higher revs and screams when U get past 3000.

What would be the best shape or are they all much of the same performance (I have a rectangular one ATM)

Does anyone know how to tell what model/size a weber is because I cant seem to find any ID panels or writing on mine that makes any sense.

Thanx 4 ne help!

$190 sounds a bit much for a panel filter if that's what you are talking about, I can have a look for you if you wish. I think the one you have is KNE2874 in track oval shape, right? with dimentions 12.37" x 8.5" x 2.25". If yours is a flat panel, then at $190 you are getting a royal rip off. Considering we do the Mitsubishi K&N pod filter for $180.

Anyway, best for you if you don't have CAI or a heat shield is to use the factory box and just upgrade the filter. We have found that using a pod without either of those items, you are just sucking in hot engine and it has as much performance gain (if not less) than using just a K&N replacement filter. Dyno proven.

As for brands, independent testing has shown the only thing that is as good as a K&N when it comes to panel filter is Unifilter. If you are talking about Pod Filter then Apexi and Unifilter is slightly better.

the XF falcon carb i have on mine is a 36/36 (size of throat) whereas the stock 1st gen carby is 32/36. first size is primary, second one is secondary. i dont know too much bout it but there are ratings like 32/36 (throat size in mm im guessing) and then there is CFM. i look at throat size now anyway. so yeah, measure the throat sizes and that will give u the size. my carby dosen't have a size/id number on it either

I asked the guy I bought it off and he said it was a 41/46 off a holden. The Air filter I have now is about 7.5"x5"x3" (off the top of my head). I am after a bolt on replacement and housing, either round, oval or rectangular. I have a bonnet scoop that blows air right ontop of the air filter so getting cold air shouldnt be a problem. Are there any filters/housings that take their air from the top not the sides...bescides a pod?

no wonder its running rich, thats a 253/308 carbi LOL i hope its been jetted acordingly

I experimented last night:

It was a clear, clean night with virtually no dust on the streets so I removed the air filter and raced the car a little bit. There was no improvement though, only the sound was different (like a V8) and at low revs it was actually lazier than before (torque?)

I'm convinced now that without modified ECU maps there are no gains in changing the air filter

I agree, the car still thinks its running with the filter on and doesnt adjust for the difference in flow, I would try something like this with mine (I havent got an ECU) but Im not game enough to risk getting anything other than air and fuel in the mix.

waste of dollars, stick with stock set up, it aint restrictive
:nuts: :nuts:

G day all - first response

I have been reading threads for weeks now, and thought I'd add some commentary

I have to agree with Dajaja - he is absolutly correct!!!!!!! you will gain zero increase form wasting money on a K&N filter with few or little mods!!!! - ANY MODEST 'DYNO'
improvement will most probably be because the of dyno parameters and not due to the increase - i will post a comprehensive test with results -

I also have concerns with these pod filters, simple advise, placing a pod filter that sucks in air from the middle of an engine bay will make you go backwards!!!!!!!! - no argument!!
just check out what the supercar boys are doing, look at the HRT 427 one off Monaro,s engine bays - they had pod filter that were completely sealed off and had huge induction pipes bringing in cool air from the fornt of the car -
also check out many quick turbo cars at the drags - many of then remove a headlight and place a huge duct straight to the turbo -

sorry that shuld read agree with straddlin - no dajaja!!!!!!!!!

Here is a test conducted by Autospeed
At a glance...

Putting an aftermarket drop-in filter in the factory airbox seldom improves flow.


We’ve been saying it for years but it’s a message that doesn’t seem to have widely got through. Nine times out of ten, dropping an aftermarket filter into the standard factory airbox is not going to get you any more power.

None.

Zilch.

Bugger-all.

Factory airfilters have excellent flow and they’ve also got filtration that matches the car manufacturer’s stringent criteria. Put a different filter in the box and not only will there be almost certainly no improvement in flow, there’ll also be an unknown decrease in filtering efficiency. That’s a pretty dumb combination to pay money for.

The way that you can easily assess the flow capability of the filter is to measure the pressure drop across it. No flowbench is required – just your normal car breathing in lots of air. (Which flows more than all but the hugest of flowbenches, anyway.) A sensitive pressure gauge with two ports that’s plumbed to either side of the filter will measure the difference in pressure at times of high flow. That difference in pressure shows how much flow restriction there is.

More pressure drop = worse flow.


Suitable pressure gauges for this application include the Dwyer Magnehelic gauges (they’re big but beautifully built and very accurate) or the smaller Dwyer Minihelic gauges (not so well built but still fine in this application).

The gauges can also be used to show the restriction of the whole intake system, just by plumbing the low pressure port to the intake before the throttle body (or turbo) and leaving the other port open to air.

In the case of the guinea pig car being used in this story – a 1988 Toyota Crown Supercharger - a 0-20 inches of water Minihelic gauge is mounted permanently on the dash. The car was bought and the gauge installed before any other changes were made to the standard car. In normal cruise, the gauge shows a pressure drop through the whole intake of 5 inches of water – very little.

At full-load, full revs, that rises to 20 inches of water, which is getting too high for max power development. (Any pressure drop will harm power, but usually getting the maximum intake pressure drop down to below 5 inches of water isn’t worth it for the amount of effort involved.)


Given that the car was bought secondhand, it was likely that the factory airfilter was dirty. And an inspection revealed that oh, boy was it ever filthy. In fact, the amount of dirt that came out when it was tapped on a surface was mind-boggling.


And just compare the dirty old filter and the clean new one...

So whack in the new filter and the total pressure drop through the intake will drop by a helluva lot, right? Like, maybe it will now be only 10 inches of water?

In went the new filter and onto the road went the car. And at maximum power the intake restriction remained exactly the same – 20 inches of water.... The brand spankers new clean filter made no difference to intake flow over the old, filthy filter. Y’see, that old filthy filter still flowed very well...

But aaah, you’re saying. What about without the factory filter in the box at all? Well, we did that test as well and if we were paid for imagining things, we might have seen a fractionally lower peak pressure drop – say, 19.5 inches of water...

To put it as simply as possible, there’s no problem with the flow of the factory filter – even when it’s dirty.

And we’ve seen the same story on everything from an Audi S4 to a Subaru Liberty RS to a Nissan Maxima V6 Turbo to a Commodore VL Turbo to a....

In nearly all cases it’s not the factory filter element which is causing the restriction. Instead, it’s likely to be the snorkel going into the airbox, or even the shape of the airbox itself.

Don’t start off by changing the filter; start off by altering the intake flow into the box.

Don't expect massive gains from them, they flow a little more but that's about it.

Their main benefit is that you dont have to replace them at 20 bucks a pop (or whatever it is) All you do is spend 10 minutes cleaning them.

Thats why I got mine.