I've had the vrx for about 1.5 years and have just noticed that the engine is really noisy when cold. The noise is present for about 10 minutes and is kind of a lawn mower sound for want of a better description.

Last oil change 6 months ago with magnatec. Is it the oil?

'facepalm' why does everyone use magnatec? does someone recommend it or do people just get sucked in by advertising?
Not having a go it just annoys me. Change to a different oil, even if it isn't the cause it won't hurt.

Magnatec is a budget oil in my opinion, 380 is too good a car to use cheap stuff. I'm wondering if 380 engines are a tad noisy anyway with the bonnet up???

Magnatec is a budget oil in my opinion, 380 is too good a car to use cheap stuff. I'm wondering if 380 engines are a tad noisy anyway with the bonnet up???

This.

Not all of them but as far as I can figure out most of them are a bit noisy after about 30,000k.
All sorts of different noises though, some have one or two, some have three or four of them.

In decreasing order of "loudness", the ones I know of are:

Ticking purge solenoid valve
Stuffed timing belt pre-tensioner
Lash adjuster tick (common on pretty much all 6G7X motors)
Noisy injectors
Worn cam followers

I've been chasing a ticking noise in my engine for three years now, I've eliminated the first four, and Mal (Madmagna) reckons I have worn cam followers.
Nothing I can do about it other than replace them, which is expensive and no guarantee the noise won't come back again.

If you get the morning rattle, shut down the motor for about 20 seconds, re start. IF the sound is gone then is the pre tensioner

As above, scrap the Crapotech Oil and use the Penrite or similar

My car does the same but it only happens for a few seconds then stops, it didn't slowly get louder over time but it was there one morning without any warning and it scared the crap out of me. So I'm guessing its the pre tensioner so is it gonna do any damage? Should I be worried? Oh and I'm using genuine Mitsubishi oil that comes with the service.

Oil makes sofa difference to pre tensioner. Also dealers use either castrol or penrith, if they tell you that they use genuine oil they are full of crap lol.

I would get it done when you can, meanwhile do the shutdown...restart trick if makes noise

I find it "funny" how we void the warranty if we use non genuine oil, yet dealers can use whatever they want, my service interval sticker from the Mitsubishi dealer is Castrol!!!!!!
Oil makes sofa difference to pre tensioner. Also dealers use either castrol or penrith, if they tell you that they use genuine oil they are full of crap lol.

I would get it done when you can, meanwhile do the shutdown...restart trick if makes noise

Who said you void the warranty......a dealer would go done in a screaming heap if they tried that trick

I used to use Magnatec but have just switched to Penrite. Noticed the difference immediately.

I just assumed it would as they say we must use genuine???
Who said you void the warranty......a dealer would go done in a screaming heap if they tried that trick

Magnatec makes my car run horribly. Penrite is definitely far superior.

Genuine is actually BP, is green in colour

BP make Castrol

Caltex make Havoline

Shell make Shell

I think Penrite are pretty avg, i would choose Castrol Edge 5w30 or even Supercheap Calibre 5w30 (are actually rebrand Caltex ACEA C3 low SAPS oil). If budget permit, you can get Royal Purple from ebay $14/quart.

No one has mentioned viscosity. Is your oil a 15W - 40 oil? I noticed in the old 3.0 V6 that it is quieter and less noisy on startup using oil that is 25W-60 (thicker) therefore is quieter compared to using thinner oil. Old 3.0 has many k's so don't care if it craps itself but I still thrash it mercisslessly and it still goes hard with the thicker oil. It's OK even in Melbourne's cold winter.

Please for the love of all things decent don't use other grades in a nicely refined motor like a 6G75

For some unknown reason there are those who like castrol. I do so many services and I do get comments on how much better the motor feels from even people who don't care about cars but is upto each owner what they use

Penrite HPR10. It's probably the best recommendation on here since it covers 6G72, 6G74, and 6G75. For worn engines (those that are showing as worn, not just high mileage), HPR15. If you want can always use Nulon Engine Stop Leak (NOT a thickener, it 'de-shrinks' seals) on older or high mileage engines and go for HPR10.

The Penrite HPR10, HPR15 etc have been improved in the last year, and are now fully synthetic. If you see these on the shelf and they don't say fully synthetic then it's old stock.

You can also go Penrite Racing 15 (15W-50) in older/worn engines on Penrite Racing 10 in good engines. Apparently in the third gen engines, according to the Penrite recommendations, you can also go to use HPR 5 or 'Ten Tenths Premium 0'. I am just going by the Penrite Website, not sure how a 0W-50 (Ten Tenths Premium 0) would go in a 6G72/6G74.

so I've heard 'oils aint oils' (someone on tv told me) but what makes magnatec so bad compared to the others suggested here? im asking because i thought magnatec was good (yes sucked in by advertising) and got some on special yesterday to change into my GTVi..... :(

i use Valvoline 10w 40 never had any issues.
but i was told once that i should use 5w 40:confused:

so I've heard 'oils aint oils' (someone on tv told me) but what makes magnatec so bad compared to the others suggested here? im asking because i thought magnatec was good (yes sucked in by advertising) and got some on special yesterday to change into my GTVi..... :(

because alot of people that use it have issues with their car that magically go away when switching to another oil.

thanks Hayden, but what are these problems i can now expect?

Switched my manual third gen 3.5 over to HPR10 last week after doing a flush. Was on dealer supplied 5w-30, whatever the hell that was (probably either Mitsubishi genuine or Castrol professional I'd say).

Engine noise is same at idle. Valve train noise (which was very, very quiet anyway) is unchanged. Fuel economy appears unchanged, although this is so hard to accurately gauge.

I have noticed, however, a LOT smoother to drive. The engine just feels absolutely SILKY smooth - much, MUCH smoother than the 6g75 in my 380 has ever been, and much smoother than I ever would have expected a Mitsubishi 6 cylinder could be. It's just magic. Even my wife noticed (and she can back into another car without noticing).

Do I think it will have made any difference to the longevity of the engine - no. Any basic oil of the right spec which is changed regularly will protect your engine. But is it much nicer to drive - absolutely.

On my 380, I didn't do a flush, just a straight change onto HPR10. Absolutely no change in anything, my ticking noise is, if anything, slightly louder.

I have no evidence the Penrite brand itself is the reason - could have been the flush, or the change of viscosity which has made the difference on my third gen. But while it stays like this, I will stay on the Penrite.

The new, fully synthetic HPR10 was only $38 from Repco with RAA discount. She said had I been in the day before (promotional 20% RAA discount), would have been $33.80 - awesome price for 5L of full synthetic.

What a pity my 380 still rattles away like a diesel at idle. Makes me want to drive the third gen much more now! Despite my reluctance, might have to try a flush on my 380 next time around.