I have recently cooked my auto tranny and thought well i might as well put a manual in it while im going, so ive got all the parts i need, ( i think )

Shifter and cables.
gearbox (of course)
brake pedal
clutch pedal
clutch cylinders,
manual intermediate drive shaft for driver side.
clutch line.
manual adoption plate which bolts to the crank to suit the manual flywheel.
anything else please let me know.

And with the wiring, what do i need to change. I have a manual book (not the gearbox :P) that has wiring diagrams, but unsure of what to change to what to making the ecu think that its a manual tranny. thanks :)

That's pretty much it apart from needing to either replace the radiator to a manual one or block up the bottom pipes in the auto one as that's where the transmission oil is cooled.

With the wiring, to get the car working, you need to find the inhibitor switch and cross the thick Black & Red cable with the thick Black & Yellow cable. This will trick the ecu into putting the car into neutral.

You then need to do some wiring modifications to get the reverse lights working. You'l be looking for a black & white cable as well as a blue & red cable. On the reverse plug there should be two wires - one is red and the other is red & blue. You need to connect the black & white cable to the red wire on the reverse plug and the blue & red wire to the blue & red wire on the plug.

If you have cruise then you need to tap into wire 13 on the cruise ecu and fit up a clutch switch (can use a brake switch as well) with a relay in the line. That has worked for member "wookie". I'm yet to wire this in so I'll update this post when I do.

on your gear box did you cut of the reverse sensor wire or un clip the plug when you got it

IF you do not have the manual reverse sensor switch find one as they are a different plug

Also when you buy your flywheel and clutch kit (please tell me your using brand new while its out) use a 380 flywheel as it will work and is 1/3 the price of a 3.0/3.5 one

Also when you buy your flywheel and clutch kit (please tell me your using brand new while its out) use a 380 flywheel as it will work and is 1/3 the price of a 3.0/3.5 one

Not anymore as Mits have hiked up the price

Cruise is different on the te and tf so pin 13 is wrong

With radiator just remove lines and drain no need to block up, is pointless

are you serious :@ was going to start buying all that stuff again soon

Sadly yes, I was buying too many as according to my dealer most sold were to me, they had hundreds left and suddenly doubled the price on them on existing stock. Still cheaper than magna but none the less have gone up

ok, thank you muchly for the wiring help. also my car was fitted with an aftermarket cruise control. they have tapped into the brake light switch for the sensor that trips the cruise, so will that be fine or would i be better off changing that to the clutch switch?

With the reverse sensor plug, the guys at the wreckers cut the wires off thankfully so i have the reverse sensor and plug all in tact.

and with the oil cooler i have already blocked the lines at the bottom because i put in an aftermarket cooler a while back so it can be removed.

and thanks again all for your replies. :)

Fodzy93:
You will have to connect the cruise trip wire to BOTH clutch and brake. If you do clutch only, the cruise will try to maintain speed when you are braking and if you use the brake light trigger only, if you depress the clutch pedal - say to change gears because the car was going up a steep hill - the engine will go to maximum revs and maybe join you in the front seat.

Erad if you don't hook up the clutch pedal switch on the right wire - the cruise won't actually work. Because the inhibitor switch is set to make the car go into neutral, the cruise ecu needs to be tricked into thinking the car is in D mode. Of course you then need wire in the clutch & brake switch so that it disengages the throttle when you push the pedals.

edit: Whoops ignore me - just realised that OP has an aftermarket cruise control setup. In such case 100% yes wire in a clutch switch as well. You should be fine to use anouther brake switch for that.

See below.


After you get your manual conversion set up, you need a way to actually start your beastie up!
This is information that has worked on my Series 2 TJ Sports.


Inhibitor/Reverse Switch Wiring
Locate where inhibitor switch plug and look for the black/yellow and black/red. Cut them with enough clearance between both wires to reconnect them if you need to reconvert your car to auto, then solder or crimp those wires together. Make sure you use plenty of heatshrink and/or electrical tape!

Find your Reverse switch plug thats on the gearbox side. Then find your reverse light plug. You must connect the Black/white wire to the red wire on the reverse light plug and the red/blue wire from the loom to the red/blue wire on the plug.


Cruise Control - TJ
On your clutch pedal, there should be a switch that presses *out* as you push your pedal *in*. You will need this switch with wires if you want to have your cruise working.

You need to remove your centre console and find where your cruise control ECU sits. You can see it when you remove the coin tray/cigarette lighter unit, as it will sit to the left and be mounted sideways. Remove the plug for the cruise control (with your car off please!), pull it towards you and locate the black wire with the red trace.

Now, when I say black wire with red trace, I mean the wire that is predominately coloured black with a red line running down the middle.

Once found, you must cut this wire with enough on both ends in order for you to reconnect a wire on each side to go back to the clutch pedal switch. Make sure you use plenty of heatshrink and/or electrical tape!

Your car should now have working cruise control, enjoy!




If anything here is not 100% understood, please don't hold back on PMing me!

Do not add any comments other than anything directly related to this techincal article!




Cruise Control - TF

Had a look at the haynes manual. The circuit diagram has a black with green wire going to the inhibitor or a clutch switch, only problem is it doesn't say which model it is tf, th or tj
followed the wiring diagrams of the inhibitor aswell, turns out for a TF this Black wire with green strip is the wire to cut and install clutch switch to.
if i knew this was that easy i would have done it years ago.
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/f81a366c.jpg
http://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn177/lowridermagna/665c0372.jpg

this is the unit (TF). I pulled it from where the light is in the photo

thanks all for the help with this project :D