My cars about 3,000 past its service, and I've been trying to get in contact with my car dealer about taking it back there for a service. 2 phone calls, 2 emails, a voicemail over the past week and... nothing.

My question is, being a basic service. Oil + filter, fluid top ups, brake checks etc.

Whats the advantage of log book? Or is it essentially a qualified mechanic signing a piece of paper?

All of my distance travelled is logged for work, so even if I did the basics myself. I can keep receipts and still have proof by dates of when I did the servicing.

I'm just sick of having to wait for them to get back to me, the reason I'm going back to the dealer is a capped price on the service. But I can spend less on parts and probably better quality ones at least to put on the 380.

Ideally, I'd like to keep a high resale value on the 380, but I don't know if a log book service will help much or not in 5 years when I've still go it.

I'm in favour of DIY. (As long as you know what you are doing)

I last took a Mitsu in for a service 8 years ago to keep the new car warranty intact. lol It is the only time a Mitsu of mine has been in any workshop, and I've owned many over the last 25 years.

Follow the log book but sign it yourself. In 5 year's time it won't make any difference to the resale value of the car. As a prospective buyer of your 380 (in 5 year's time), I'd be more interested in seeing that the service was done on time. Add details like what oil you used, and I'd be very impressed.

Whats the advantage of log book? Or is it essentially a qualified mechanic signing a piece of paper?

Yes and no.

Mechanic certified services are considered much more trustworthy for the used car market. While you might have receipts, there is no evidence that you actually did anything with the gear you bought. You could buy a filter/oil every 6 months, then take it back the next day for a refund - or use it in your other car.

Also, liability issues could potentially arise. For example, you flush your brake fluid at home and forget to fully tighten a fitting and sell the car a day later. Someone buys the car with a visually full brake fluid reservoir, and a day later lose all their fluid and prang the car with fatalities. Where do you stand legally?

If this happened after a certified mechanic worked on the car, the mechanic has liability insurance so no-one is left millions of dollars out of pocket. I can easily change the brake fluid and have done so many times on aircraft - but won't do it on my cars, because I don't do it every day like a certified car mechanic, and haven't been trained/mentored during an apprenticeship on the intricacies of a modern car brake system. I don't want to leave myself open to liability.

Lastly, warranty concerns. Your warranty is protected only if any maintenance is carried out by a qualified mechanic. You can get your 380 logbook servicing done down the road at your local family mechanic, not necessarily Mitsubishi - and if the engine were to let go, Mitsubishi are obligated to replace it. You do that servicing yourself ... no such guarantee.

I do oil changes in between dealer services and keep the receipts, but don't write it down in the book - and I use genuine oil filter if it's under warranty.

One thing you can do (from what I've researched) is supply your own parts to a dealership for servicing. If they use Castrol 5W-30 and you want them to use Penrite HPR10, just leave a new, unopened container on the front seat and instruct them to use it. Provided the parts are new and meet the applicable standard (for example, oil would have to meet the oil specifications in the 380 operating handbook) then you are covered.

What MadMax said......its the history of the vehicle so don't be afraid to add the details of what and when u did/replaced/adjusted - ie brake pad replace, coolant change etc .....

I'm in favour of DIY. (As long as you know what you are doing)

I last took a Mitsu in for a service 8 years ago to keep the new car warranty intact. lol It is the only time a Mitsu of mine has been in any workshop, and I've owned many over the last 25 years.

Follow the log book but sign it yourself. In 5 year's time it won't make any difference to the resale value of the car. As a prospective buyer of your 380 (in 5 year's time), I'd be more interested in seeing that the service was done on time. Add details like what oil you used, and I'd be very impressed.

Because I already keep everything used on the car for tax purposes, everything else I continue to do will be saved with with receipts. Every time the car gets detailed I'll have a receipt and keep it. I still have the past 4 years of receipts for my TS before I sold it.

@flyboy - I'll only be doing basic stuff, oil and filter, change the brakes, windscreen wiper changes, I won't go into doing stuff like flushing the brake fluid. I'll leave that to mechanics to do when it needs it. My 380 isn't under warranty either. I'm more interested in doing it myself instead of paying someone do to do the exact same thing for their time. I did most of the general stuff on my TS and it was fine.

Waste of money getting the car serviced by a mech every time. I just change the oil and filter every 5-10k and every 3rd service i take it to the mechanic.

I do most of the servicing on my Magna myself, with the exception of the timing belt and transmission flush, etc., and I keep a detailed log of the work done, parts used, when, what kilometres and when its due next - and I fill out the logbook where appropriate It's more of a piece of mind thing, YOU know what's done. Take the 380 back every 3rd service as Hayden said, to keep abreast of what you can't see.

It's at 83000kms now. I'd say I'll do the 80k which is over due, and the 90k myself. Then take the car in for the 100k with timing belt and get them to do that, trans flush, brakes flush at the same time.

My old job I used to write documentation so keeping the details down somewhere will be easy.

Maybe have a look at your logbook and work out when the brake fluid and coolant was last changed.

They should be changed every 2 years. If you do the next two services yourself, you might find you are three or four years between brake fluid changes.

I bought the car in April, I'm assuming it had it done when they took it on as a used car. But I'd have to find out if/when it was done. The log book provided was brand new and dealer badged.

I'm looking at doing it all this weekends, any recommendations on brands of oil, oil filters etc that I should use? I'll probably buy it all from Repco as I get a discount being an RAA member.

In need of some wiper blades too, but I'm a bit lost as to what might be good. I just grabbed whatever previously.

And, does anyone know the name of that stuff you put on your windscreen that makes the water bead and run off while driving? I think Maggie had a video of it somewhere.

The product your thinking of is Rain-X I think. Personally, I use ACDelco wiper blade assemblies (available at Holden dealers), as they are well priced (<$20 each) and perform well.

I also use ACDelco oil filters and as far as oil goes, I use Penrite HPR5

Use Penrite HPR10 oil. Repco filters are made to the exact same specification as ryco so get that.

The stuff that makes water bead off the windscreen is called rainx.

If you want good wiper blades, pm crackajnr. I believe he MAY still have soe Bosch aerotwin blades. Of not they cam be ordered online. EBay is your friend there.

If you do coolant, I use Nulon Long Life Concentrate.

Spark plugs: Accept nothing other than NGK plugs.

Use Penrite HPR10 oil. Tick Repco filters are made to the exact same specification as ryco so get that. According to Mal genuine Mitsu is best, but I've used Ryco & Repco without any problems

The stuff that makes water bead off the windscreen is called rainx. Tick, but lots of debate over whether it causes squeaky wiper blades or not. I stopped using it years ago.

If you want good wiper blades, pm crackajnr. I believe he MAY still have soe Bosch aerotwin blades. Tick. Best blades going, evah! Of not they cam be ordered online. EBay is your friend there. Tick

If you do coolant, I use Nulon Long Life Concentrate. Tick

Spark plugs: Accept nothing other than NGK plugs. Tick!

As you can see, I'm with dreggzy on most things.

I do all my own servicing work and have done for years, the only thing I left for a dealer to do was the 100,000k timing belt change.

Oil, filter, brake fluid, coolant, brake pads changes are easy as to DIY.

Spark plugs are a little trickier as you must remove the intake plenum to get at the rear bank. But not that hard, plenty of posts about it.

Read up on how to do these things, check these forums, take it slow and carefull, and you will save yourself a motza in labour charges, and plenty on parts as well.

But the auto trans flush is something I know nothing about, except it's not a DIY proposition!

PS - there is no scheduled 80,000k service, the 380 service intervals are every 15,000k, so it goes 75 - 90 - 105, with a recommendation on the 90,000k service page that you change the timing belt at 100,000k

PS - there is no scheduled 80,000k service, the 380 service intervals are every 15,000k, so it goes 75 - 90 - 105, with a recommendation on the 90,000k service page that you change the timing belt at 100,000k

I think this was mainly dealer recommendation. I bought it with 73,000 on it. Then services at 80,90 and 100. I'm at 83,500 now and I think it should be done. But this service should see me through to the 100,000, and I'll probably pay for the timing belt and spark plugs to be done, as I've no idea how to do it, and I don't particularly want my old man getting under the bonnet :P

Heading to Repco this morning, I'll grab the same recommendations in fluids from the book and just a decent brand.

Brake fluid is probably better to do yourself because you can use a better fluid (such as Nulon xTreme brake fluid (Super DOT 4) vs normal Dot 4). Super DOT 4 costs about a dollar a bottle more, so what, $2 or $3 for a flush, and has much better temperature, operating, and less water absorption (good thing) properties... and lasts longer! Reason why garages don't use it is because for them buying the fluid in bulk, $2 extra litre adds up over multiple drums.

The Nulon Super DOT 4 is also a transparent yellow colour. It's easy to know when the green stuff has been flushed, and in future flushes it's much easier to see if the colour has changed, which could be an indication of seal wear etc.

And, does anyone know the name of that stuff you put on your windscreen that makes the water bead and run off while driving? I think Maggie had a video of it somewhere.

As mentioned already rain-x works well...buy it on special, fathers day special at SuperCheap and Repco coming up soon....but I have used simple "metho" and water combo in a spray bottle, works just as well.

Some workshops use the super dot 4 fluid, I know I do for one example

I also use Genuine filters, Penrite Oil and Genuine trans fluid, many dont as there is sfa margin in these products but at least I know when your car leaves here it has been done to the best of my ability and only quality parts have been used in your car

While there is nothing wrong with DIY, be sure you do get your car properly checked every now and again as there are mant items under and in a car that the average DIY person will not know to look for. Things that stand out to someone with experience and would look normal to your average DIYer

Until about 2 months ago i had spent thousands on getting the Dealers to service my cars.

I have had problems nearly every time with poor workmanship, bolt left out, parts snapped off, threads stripped, and most recently Mitsubishi had my 380 for over 6weeks after they botched what should have been a routine 90k service with timing belt change.

What was supposed to give me piece of mind with warranty and smooth running of the car by having it serviced at the dealer, has been creating more problems.

I've just started doind the basics myself using better quality fluids for alot cheaper and i know i have taken more care when doing things. The major things such as timing belt in future i will get a reputable local mechanic but never a dealer.