Hey guys, my car is munching a bit of oil...im using elf 5-30w or 5-40 full syntectic oil... im using a ryco oil filter....i put 4000kms of hard driving...i mean hard driving and high revs....it chewed about 1 litre of oil....is that an amount to worry about????

What oil would U reccomend to stop chewing as much oil?? Is 10-40w the way Please help....thanks

Was it fairly fresh oil? If not, you probably burnt off combustion products that built up. Then again, even with fresh oil it's common to burn more oil when you thrash it, compared to gentle driving. 1L in 4,000 km is nothing to worry about. (Unless it is leaking out, of course)

That is oil is too thin for your motor. It's high quality for sure but too thin. Hard driving over 4000k's and you're kill the oil sooner rather than later. Also, it is likely to leak out of seals, gaskets etc. Standard 15w-40 or even 20w-50 is fine along with more regular oil changes...like every 5000km if you are pushing it hard.
Super thin oil is made for engines with very fine oil galleries to allow instant travel to the top of the engine during start up to provide instant lubrication of the cams and bearings in the heads.

15-20w -40
THAT'S WAY too thick

5w-30 gets poured in @ a stealership and is recommended in the manual

a 10w-40 or 50 would be much better suited

Im with warren on this, although the pretense that it is too thick is probably not the problem. Always stick with manufacturer guidelines on oil weight.

1 litre in 4000km with hard driving is not too bad to be honest, and within spec i would say.

OP, what brand of oil were you using? Being a fully synthetic oil, it does not absorb moisture like a mineral or semi syn oil. With hard driving, you have probably burnt out the detergents in the oil base quite quickly especially if its a budget oil. This can lead to a drop in oil level as it starts to lose its viscosity, and then at high revs and high temp, oil starts consuming.

Use a proper mitsu oil filter for starters. Change the oil to something with a good reputation in these Cyclone V6's like Penrite. I have been introduced to Neo oils recently which are primarily used in motorsport and offer high protection in engines that are being raced.

along with more regular oil changes...like every 5000km if you are pushing it hard.


If the oil is decent, a 5000km oil change is not neccessary and is just being wasteful.

Im with warren on this, although the pretense that it is too thick is probably not the problem. Always stick with manufacturer guidelines on oil weight.

1 litre in 4000km with hard driving is not too bad to be honest, and within spec i would say.

OP, what brand of oil were you using? Being a fully synthetic oil, it does not absorb moisture like a mineral or semi syn oil. With hard driving, you have probably burnt out the detergents in the oil base quite quickly especially if its a budget oil. This can lead to a drop in oil level as it starts to lose its viscosity, and then at high revs and high temp, oil starts consuming.

Use a proper mitsu oil filter for starters. Change the oil to something with a good reputation in these Cyclone V6's like Penrite. I have been introduced to Neo oils recently which are primarily used in motorsport and offer high protection in engines that are being raced.


Well the brand of oil that im using is the BEST on the market world wide from what i know...The brand is ELF......Im using 5-30w at the moment......Ryco Oil Filter....And im using BP 95 Octane Fuel....I found that using 98 gives me less power and less fuel econemy.....Sure the 98 is good for long distance freeway driving....But 95 Is best for the Suburbs, i do alot of short drives aswell, When thrashing the car tho i mean pedal to the medal your best using 91 octance, becuase when you have a fuel such as 98octance it burns slower thats why you get more fuel effenncy,...But when you have the foot down you need the fuel to burn as quick as possible, otherwise your car will run RICH......No matter what car...(TUNING IT TO 98 IS A DIFFERNT CASE)...im talking stock ecu no retune/reflash....

Anyways

ohh and the oil was dark in colour when COLD....but warmed up the motor 10secs....and the oil was STILL GOLD LIKE NEW

Ive toped up the oil for now.....No leaks....

Next 1000kms, im going to be putting in the OEM Oil Filter, and ELF Full Syntectic 10-40w oil....See how that goes.....


Im glad thats not a huge amout of oil ive lost....I was stressing....becuase i know shit about this car....thanks guys

Well the brand of oil that im using is the BEST on the market world wide from what i know...The brand is ELF......Im using 5-30w at the moment......Ryco Oil Filter....And im using BP 95 Octane Fuel....I found that using 98 gives me less power and less fuel econemy.....Sure the 98 is good for long distance freeway driving....But 95 Is best for the Suburbs, i do alot of short drives aswell, When thrashing the car tho i mean pedal to the medal your best using 91 octance, becuase when you have a fuel such as 98octance it burns slower thats why you get more fuel effenncy,...But when you have the foot down you need the fuel to burn as quick as possible, otherwise your car will run RICH......No matter what car...(TUNING IT TO 98 IS A DIFFERNT CASE)...im talking stock ecu no retune/reflash....



Alright, a little off-topic but this should be addressed firstly.

98 octane fuel will allow your engine to run optimally. The 380 has been designed to run best on this fuel. I am really not sure what to make of your post haha.

You need to stop thinking about fuel as having more bang - this is wrong. The difference between 91 and 98 fuel is the resistance to detonation. 98RON fuel contains additives to 'delay' the detonation of each stroke. The longer the detonation can be prevented, the more pressure, air, and fuel is added to the mix before the spark is introduced. 91 will not give you more performance over 98 in a stock car. It is a mathematical impossibility in the 6G75. The car will not run rich either, the timings are adjusted accordingly to ensure the engine runs optimally around 13-15:1. Most modern mass produced engines run rich anyway, its safer than running lean.

Now, Elf was a good oil. I myself drive a RenaultSport, which was Elf's primary motorsport partner. Unfortunately Elf no longer create motor oils for general consumption. It is now all Total branded oils. Fortunately, the oil make-up is very similar between Total and Elf.

I reccomend you look at Penrite synthetic oils. These offer the same levels of protection as Elf/Total and are also available through normal retailers unlike Elf was. All Penrite oils meet or exceed Mitsubishi oil reccommendations.

And im using BP 95 Octane Fuel....I found that using 98 gives me less power and less fuel econemy.....Sure the 98 is good for long distance freeway driving....But 95 Is best for the Suburbs, i do alot of short drives aswell, When thrashing the car tho i mean pedal to the medal your best using 91 octance, becuase when you have a fuel such as 98octance it burns slower thats why you get more fuel effenncy,...But when you have the foot down you need the fuel to burn as quick as possible, otherwise your car will run RICH......No matter what car...(TUNING IT TO 98 IS A DIFFERNT CASE)...im talking stock ecu no retune/reflash....

Agree with Dave. You really need to do some more research on this.

5w or 10w is what is needed, I would not use 15 or certainly not 20 in a 380 motor

These motors are known for using a bit of oil, running full synth will also make consumption greater as there is no moisture etc keeping the oil topped up like it used to in a mineral oil All motors use a little oil however when a mineral oil is used the mineral oil will absorb moisture from the atmosphere especially in humid areas.

I would not be too worried at this stage, keep an eye on it and see how it goes

Out of curiosity, what year is the car

Its a 2005

Im not agreeing or dissagreeing....im just going off by what i can see and feel.....I could be wrong...but when i use bp 98 i get less kms out of the tank and less power...but when i use bp 95 i get more kms and more power...I know becuase when i use 98 i get 250km to a tank...and when i use 95 i get 300km to a tank..And im not going off by the computer....i go by the kms i always reset the trip meter...the computer says i get 400km to a full tank....but i really only get about 300km


As i said i do alot of hard driving and alot of short distance driving

For petrol I am using 95 from United

better on my pocket than BP and getting same KM's as I would on the 100

The E85 I use occasionally is delivering about the same Kms as E10 91ron.

Your car has other issues mate or you drive it like you stole it

Mine gets driven occasionally but driven hard and I get at least 500km to a tank. 300 is dreadful

Your car has other issues mate or you drive it like you stole it

Mine gets driven occasionally but driven hard and I get at least 500km to a tank. 300 is dreadful
I must agree with this, I get around 350km a tank around the city using the blower coz I like the sound of it lol

I drive like a stole it....dw next service im getting the fuel injectors serviced and new fuel filter. I found that they never got serviced....anyways thanks again


And could I get some help on the gearbox rebuild I posted...thanks

I am getting min 430kms on a tank

I get between 500 & 600k a tank out of my 380 manual, depends on the mix of city & country driving.
I don't drive it like I stole it but it still gets plenty of WOT action.

Interestingly enough, even for the 380 on the Penrite website they recommend HPR10 (10W-50) over HPR5 (5W-40), but for 3rd gens TH and post TH, they list HPR5 as an option. To my surprise, they even list the 'Premium 0' (0W-50) for TH through TW! I guess that option over HPR10 is based on engine wear.

Anyone here using 0W-50 in their third gen ;)

can i get help on my gearbox rebuild please

Interestingly enough, even for the 380 on the Penrite website they recommend HPR10 (10W-50) over HPR5 (5W-40), but for 3rd gens TH and post TH, they list HPR5 as an option. To my surprise, they even list the 'Premium 0' (0W-50) for TH through TW! I guess that option over HPR10 is based on engine wear.

Anyone here using 0W-50 in their third gen ;)

0w-50 is a touch thin for cold running, but isnt too big a deal. The fact you can get such a large difference in viscosity at room temps vs running temps is a miracle in itself. Although the room temp rating is low, its not that much different from a 5 weight. Engine wear when cold is such a prominent "issue" for all engines that a slight difference in viscosity at room temps is small. The viscosity at running temps is more important.

I was just surprised to see that a 0w-50 was recommended, I'm pretty sure it wasn't there a few months ago. It's got me wondering how a 3rd gen would like actually running this, or the 10w-70 version, over the HPR10.