View Full Version : 2.4L Head Bolt Torque Specs
Sedition
06-09-2012, 06:25 PM
Hi, Does anyone have the head bolt torque specs for a TE with a 2.4L engine. Thankyou...;)
Sedition
07-09-2012, 07:18 AM
Bump....
MadMax
07-09-2012, 07:24 AM
What's the engine code? It would be 4GXX. There have been a few variations on the 2.4, some have "torque to yield" headbolts.
This might help . . . . .
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua/Manuals/Engine/pwee9616/11A.pdf
Sedition
07-09-2012, 12:23 PM
The engine code is 4G64. The bolts that came out of it don't look like the TTY type but I could be wrong.
MadMax
07-09-2012, 12:32 PM
Check out p 77 of that manual in my above post. That is definitely a TTY headbolt shown in the picture.
If yours look nothing like that, all I can say is . . . I have NFI.
Sedition
07-09-2012, 12:44 PM
Oh ok, So according to that manual it says to tighten them to 78NM then loosen them off completly, then retighten to 20NM, then twist 90* then a further 90*. I thankyou for your help MadMax.
MadMax
07-09-2012, 01:13 PM
Oh ok, So according to that manual it says to tighten them to 78NM then loosen them off completly, then retighten to 20NM, then twist 90* then a further 90*. I thankyou for your help MadMax.
That's how I read it too.
Check the length of each bolt as described in case they have been overstretched in use. (Probably not, but worth checking)
As long as you follow the normal bolt sequence at each stage (centre outwards) and have a clean block/head surface and new gasket, shouldn't go wrong. I hope.
Thought of replacing the two belts while there?
dreggzy
07-09-2012, 01:25 PM
Thought of replacing the two belts while there?
:yeahthat:
While the engine is out.
Sedition
07-09-2012, 03:37 PM
Yeah I have my engine out because I needed a new bottom end. I have a question about timing the water pump/balanceshaft. Is the arrow on the water pump sprocket supposed to point strait up at a mark that says T1 or 90* left from the top where there is a "check" in the metal there.
Sedition
07-09-2012, 03:57 PM
Never mind, it's in the manual that's linked a couple posts up. It turns out to be the "check" in the metal on the edge of the engine.
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