Hi all, I've got a 2007 Series 2. On Monday when I tried to kick it over it wouldn't start on the first go. It then started but the engine light flashed for about 20 seconds, then disappeared.

At various times during the week I have had the same issues (it hasn't kicked over first time) but the engine light did not flash.

It has done about 130k's, serviced on time, plugs changed at 105 (with NGK Platinum).

Anyone have any ideas what it might be?

When is the last time you change your battery?

battery

Yes, battery, this is known deteriorating battery issue....

Replace with a quality battery over 560 cca...

All the guys will say a 600, but I made the calls to others and Mitsubishi, my 560CCA battery has given me 2.5 years of service, with audio amps as well...

By the way, welcome aboard....

EDIT: wasnt 3 years yet

cannot go wrong with a yellow top

Expensive though. A good standard battery is the Century 'Hi Performance', or the 'Ultra-Hi Performance' for something a bit higher spec.

For the 380, the 55D23R (540CCA) is the hi performance model and 75D23R (620CCA) is the ultra hi performance model.

You can also go Exide, the only one that would be ideal is X55D23D (Exide Extra, 550CCA). If you select the 380 for recommendations it shows the lower 'endurance plus', and the upgrade recommendation to the extra down the bottom.

These three batteries are all Australian made, and are excellent quality. Apparently a lot of places are selling imported batteries and badmouthing the century/exide and even optima (distributed by Century), saying they're rubbish and a whole lot of other bull. The reason for this is so they can push their stock better. They import a variety of brands from overseas very cheaply and sell them for a higher markup than what they can get from selling century, exide, or optima. Some of these batteries may be okay... until you take them on a rough dirt track.

So a good thing to do would be to buy one of these, and down the track buy a good battery charger like the Projecta Pro-charge (PC800 is ideal) or Projecta Intelli-charge (IC700W is ideal). The IC700W is better if you want to use a yellow-top optima as I believe they are gel. Both of these have rejuvenation function and calcium mode. All three batteries I listed are calcium batteries. They are actually three different variations.

I wouldn't worry about 'maintenance-free' batteries, they are rarely completely maintenance free, and it's more of a marketing con. Basically after a couple of years where you need to top the battery up, you top each sell with 'Inox Battery Conditioner' first, and if more is needed then distilled water. The combination of a good battery like I listed above, a good charger, and the Inox top up, the battery should outlast the car :).

Info about calcium batteries etc here:
http://www.centurybatteries.com.au/index.php/component/docman/doc_download/2-battery-talk-issue-1

I bought the 620CCA century yesterday for my father's new 380. Hopefully will last 5 years (I always get 5-7 years out of my batteries-I always buy Aussie made ones)

Steve

I had the Exide Extra ( listed above, fitted 09/03/2010) and it's going strong..

Original Battery thread -
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75441&highlight=exide

The 620CCA Century one should last you at least that! The best of the three is the 620CCA one, the other 'Hi performance' century and Exide Extra are probably quite similar in performance and longevity. They do use slightly different battery tech though, I believe the Exide Extra probably uses slightly more water, so just top it off after a couple of years to the correct level with demineralised water. Even better like I said before, the Inox Battery conditioner (also Australian) :)

Now in saying the Century can last 5-7 years, it could last significantly longer, or only 4 years. It depends on use, charge pattern etc. This is true for any battery, although you would have to treat the battery pretty harshly to only do 4 years. The investment in a good charger like I mentioned before is a very good idea, not only because of the rejuvinate mode, special calcium charge mode etc, but because you never know when you might leave the interior light on, or have the boot light stuck on (happened to me!).

A good practice is to, once or twice a year, check electrolyte level, and give it a rejuvinate charge with the charger. Maintenance free just means the electrolyte can't be topped up (at least easily, on some not at all!), they are nothing more than standard battery tech optimised for low electrolyte use (and the downside is the battery is more susceptible to being damaged, particularly on corrugated roads). Read the link I gave earlier about calcium batteries, it gives a rundown on the different combinations used and the pro's and cons. This is another things sales people will try and claim, that the century and exide are rubbish because you can top them up!...

Exide and Century do sell imported models too, just make sure you get the Aussie made ones because they are actually heavier duty (withstand jolts and vibration). The three I listed are all Aussie :)

The Optima's are imported, but they should be quite heavy duty (in terms of coping with jolts and vibration) - you'd hope so for the price!

Thanks all, very much appreciated, good to know it is nothing too major.

I paid 260 for my 750CCA yellow top. D34 delivered to my door

Considering how the 380 is SO sensitive to drops in voltage it is cheap as chips

Depends on the extent of your problem tho cb35. I've had the same issue but it's been that way through a new battery installed which made no noticeable difference. My problem extend further than just hesitant/sluggish starting however - mine sometime fires up immediately, as soon as I turn the key, not even an attempt at a crank. So I don't think mine is battery. Some of the forums suggest coils or something. If anyone has any ideas for me??:happy: