Hey guys,

I decided to tackle my leaking heater core, started destructing the interior today, i'm stuck at what seems should be the easiest part - The dash/dial fascia, i've undone the two top screws but the thing will not budge without feeling like it's going to break, behine it i can feel there is moulds for the dimmer and trip computer buttons, is that where the clips are to release it ?

Worklog picture
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/Mitchcalais/DSC_0298.jpg

The dash/dial fascia, i've undone the two top screws but the thing will not budge without feeling like it's going to break, behine it i can feel there is moulds for the dimmer and trip computer buttons, is that where the clips are to release it ?

Put the steering wheel in the lowest position possible. With the two screws undone it should simply unclip at the bottom.
Once it's out and dangling you can unclip the dimmer and trip computer plugs.

The cluster is held in by four screws: top left, top right, bottom left and bottom right. Once those four screws are out the cluster will simply slide out, carefully incline it so you can unplug it.

Hope this helps

The cluster facia is held in by, mostly, the plastic being a tight fit. The screws on the top just really help it stay flush with the underside of the cluster visor of the dash area. I didn't have screws in place for a long time and it never came loose.

As above, drop the steering wheel as low as it goes and if you feel inclinded then consider removing the column cover by removing two screws on the underside of the column - the top part will clip off. Then I found the best way I found to remove the facia, was to put a screw driver with a rag on it or a plastic trim remover tool between the dash and top part of the facia itself enough to get your fingers/hand in to pull the plastic facia towards you. Start slowly pulling and it should snap out. You may have to assist it from the bottom part of the facia. If you do drop the steering wheel enough and remove the plastic column surrounds then you might be able to break the facia free from the bottom.
It's very maluable so it's very unlikely to snap. I once tried to snap one and it's not easy so don't be too worried about breaking it, but obviously take care with pulling it out.

Once you unsettle the facia from the dash, on the bottom of the facia you'll see two modules with cables running into them - these are the dimmer and the speed control button modules. Unclip the wires/harness and it'll come loose. You cannot remove these modules unless you remove the facia first.

Feel free to post up anymore questions about the dash removal.

As someone whose done this twice, I strongly recommend being mythological by carefully taking physical note (e.g. writing it down, taking pictures) of where you remove screws from and not to forget actually marking which bolt goes where. In the past I've made use of cardboard to hold the bolts.

Thanks for that, i'll get stuck into it tomorrow, no doubt i will have more questions.
I've been placing stuff i remove to either the left or the side of the car with the screw/bolts with each part. The biggest thing i had to remove was the folk's Verada from the garage to give me space :)

Okay so after a total pain the ass the dash is out, coolant is everywhere so kinda glad i started this. I'm stuck again regarding the actual heater core-

I'm assuming its this box in the center, does it have to come completely out or can i reach the seals?, also where exactly are the seals located ?

Thanks

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/Mitchcalais/DSC_0320.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y294/Mitchcalais/DSC_0322.jpg

If you look under the bonnet there are 2 coolant hoses that enter the firewall. The heater box is on the other side of the firewall, obviously. The heater hoses are attached to 2 plastic spigots, which are bolted to the metal heater core, which is inside the heater box. The seals are between the plastic pipes and the metal heater core. So the hoses have to come off, and the heater core has to come out of the heater box.

Not having done any more than look at the manual, all I can say is . . . . good luck! I've got 2 third genners myself, so needless to say I will be doing this job sometime in the future.

There is a thread here somewhere with more practical detail.

I hope you don't have to drive to work or somewhere tomorrow because you're not making very good progress :P

Using your eyes, you will need to remove all the bolts holding the HVAC (Heating, Ventilation And Cooling) unit to the firewall. From memory there's 6 - 8.

From here you need to jump into the engine bay and remove the two black hoses that go from the engine block to the firewall (and subsequently the heater core)

Now you can jump back in the cabin and wriggle the HVAC unit away from the firewall, keeping an eye for leaking coolant (which probably won't matter cos you've got heaps leaking anyway..

the heater core is a mini radiator , maybe 20x20cm in size, with two pipe connectors. (once you move the unit far enough away from the firewall you should be able to see the holes for the pipes, and subsequently the pipes on the heater core. just slide this out. From memory the pipes may get caught on the holes and the core will stay hooked on the firewall as the HVAC unit comes away)

Once you have the heater core out just undo the 2 lots of 4 screws holding the plastic connectors, remove, take the old seals out, put the new ones on and reverse the procedure.

Thanks Max/scorcher - It's been pretty overwhelming trying to focus on anything but not snapping plastic, bolt sizes and cables, don't have work tomorrow so can spend time on it.

Finished -

The worst job i have ever done. Got half way through screwing on the dash before noticing the heater cover was still off :)
Also Baking Soda'd the coolant on carpet

Hardest parts -

Edging the heater box/core out to get to the Torx screws - I didn't take it completely out, just slid it forward enough to get to the screws, leaving the metal console rails slightly intact so I could remember how it goes together with the cables.
Heater hoses can be bastards to remove
Maneuvering and lifting dash on/off by yourself

For the next person that does this and reads this thread I would make sure you have a few days to do it, and as good and helpful the guides on here are, they are very vague regarding all the particular ways things go together.



Saved $800+ however, time for rest.

Yeah it's a real pain in the arse to do... my timeline was more awesome than yours.

Begin taking shit apart on a Thursday night around 6pm, with hopes of having it all done and good to go for the drive to work the next day. 11pm, only just got the dash out and was trying to figure out how I was to get the HVAC unit away from the firewall. At some point in there I broke the stupid plastic stick that plunges down to allow the gear selector to move.
Got a lift to work and back again on Friday, resume working on stuff at 6pm. Got the HVAC unit away, replaced seals. Spent HOURS trying to get the hoses back onto the heater core. Lying across the engine block, couldn't get the original clamps back on so I went to Bunnings and got some of those silver screw clamps.
Saturday morning, I still hadn't gotten the core back on properly, went to the wreckers and got a gear shifter assembly for some absurd price.
Work from 10am til 12. Around 10:15 I notice I injured my back while man handling the heater core pipes. Back starts spasming as I'm dealing with a customer, I tensed up and looked like I was constipated :\
Eventually finished work, got driven home in immense pain, got mum to put the heater core pipes on (she's patient with that kind of thing) as I could not get into the engine bay because I was in so much pain...
Had the rest of the afternoon in bed.
Sunday morning, set to work in immense pain, back spasming.
Eventually had it back together by sun down on Sunday. Went for a drive only to notice the steering wheel was one groove out.... not a single **** was given...

Lying across the engine block,


Hahaha, this is exactly what i started doing after my back was starting to hurt. The clamps on the hoses are tight as, what I worked out to be easiest (when I could eventually grab them well enough with pliers) was to grab them and at the same time push the hose on then clamp down.

If I have another car with a crap heater core, i'm going to burn it for insurance money instead of fixing.