My brothers te packed up this afternoon. The gearbox has been in a bad way for a while, jolting as it shifts into 1st, but today it is just jolting from the second I put it in drive. I pulled the dipstick out and the fluid is a dark brown colour (a bit like coca cola).

I have a spare trans so it isn't too much of a problem to change it, but would it be worthwhile flushing the trans before I replace it? My thoughts are either oil pump or wave spring but it would be great if it were something more simple.

I have done a search but nothing answers my question. What do you think?

if the oil is that bad, it cant hurt to give it a flush and change. make sure it is flushed correctly otherwise you only actually change half the oil

I would definitely flush it but would there be any point if there is a serious internal failure? Can this behavior come from really shitty oil?

I forgot to mention that it is also engaging limp mode sporadically.

My TE used to do that one month after I bought it. Gearbox was days from death.

Mike

My KS did this for over 6 months without failing at all.

I took it for a drive this morning. It gave a mighty clunk and then engaged limp mode with neutral flashing constantly. I drove it around the block a few times and it wouldn't shift gears. Disconnected the battery and it still put itself in limp mode when I started it again.

I drained the transmission fluid. 6l came out quite red and healthy with a bit of carbon in it. The sump plug was covered in black soot though. Thoughts?

My KF gearbox sometimes flares in to gears under certain conditions. Can also shift hard in to reverse, like a thud. Flushing the gearbox and proper fluid didnt really change it at all. Been like that, and unchanged for more than 6 months now.... I wonder if I should be concerned? lol

Bit different. This is stuck in limp mode and is undrivable.

What's the frequency of the flashing N light? From memory, if it's once every 2 seconds then it means the oil is too hot, and if its once a second then you've got a more serious problem that might require the MUTII to find out what the problem is.

If the gearbox is getting too hot then often enough it's the oil that needs to be replaced because it's either too old and/or too low.

If you've done the flush properly, following the right procedure and using genuine gearbox fluid, and the N light doesn't go away after disconnecting the battery then it's fair to assume the gearbox has had it and it's time to get a new one.

Flashing N is not wave spring, oil pump or planetary gears

Have you checked the ECU for coolant leakage onto the ECU either present or past. This is the most likely cause of not that there may be an issue with a solonoid within the trans.

No water leaking onto the ecu. I have checked that. If it is a solenoid, is it still new trans time? Flashing every 1 second. I have drained the box for now but won't flush it until my brother spits out some cash for fluid. 3 bottles ought to do it from memory.

So how do I fix that solonoid up? If I have to pull the box out, it's happening tomorrow.

Is there any oil leaks from the motor? After a long list of issues to the TF it started playing up again.

Turns out there was a rocker cover leaking down making a bad connection on the Imput Shaft Sensor. Cleaned the plug and it was good to go again.

No oil leaks and all extenal connections to the box are sound. Any more suggestions before I rip the box out?

Sorry guys but I really need to know about this solenoid ASAP. Is it replacable, if it is the issue? How can I diagnose this?

I only have tomorrow to do the swap so I would like to eliminate any possibilities if I can before pulling 2 cars apart.

Bumping. Don't want to rip out the auto till I know for sure that it has to go.

I remember reading somewhere that if the N is flashing then the oil is too hot. I think it was in the owners manual. Check the temp sensor.

N starts flashing when cold and after flushing. Will check the temp sensor.

Cheers

Flushing and dirty oil do not cause these issues

Get a scanner onto this sucker and get some definate codes

So mitsu run?

run to somewhere that has a scanner to read the ecu. Is just the neutral light on or is the drive light on as well and the neutral light flashing.

Just flashing in neutral and stuck in 3rd gear.

And now it's working again.

Today, after starting it up, it just started shifting properly. Didn't engage limp mode at all (Yes, my brother has been driving in limp mode for 3 weeks despite my advice to the contrary).

Any ideas what could have caused this?

It could be one of the two speed sensors is acting up. They can be ok when cold, but malfunction when hot. I expect it will drop into limp mode again.
Diagnostic error codes for the gearbox can be read using the plug under the dash. Not sure which pins to short out, but neutral light will flash to give you the error code.
I believe it is in the manual somewhere.

Hang on . . . .

http://www.scribd.com/doc/59528593/Mitsubishi-Magna-TE-TJ-96-04-V6-3-0-3-5

Transmission Codes (Auto):
The Two Digit Transmission Fault Codes are displayed as flashes of the Neutral "N" Lamp in the Dash.
If a Fault develops with the Transmission, the "N" Lamp will flash.
Flashes at 2Hz, (2 Flashes/Second) indicate that the Transmission has overheated.
Flashes at 1Hz, (1 Flash/Second) indicate that a Fault Code is in Memory.

Fault Code Extraction
1. Switch Ignition ON.
2. Ground Terminal 1 on the Diagnostic Connector.
3. Read Engine Codes as Flashes of the Check Engine Lamp.
4. Read Transmission Codes as Flashes of the Neutral "N" Lamp in the Dash.

Fault Code Table (Automatic Transmission)
11 Throttle Position Sensor - Sensor Shorted or Disconnected
12 Throttle Position Sensor -Sensor Disconnected
14 Throttle Position Sensor -Sensor Adjustment Incorrect
15 Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor - Sensor Disconnected
21 Crank Angle Sensor - Sensor Disconnected
22 Auto Transmission Pulse Generator `A' (Input Shaft Speed Sensor) - Sensor Shorted or Disconnected
23 Auto Transmission Pulse Generator `B' (Output Shaft Speed Sensor) - Sensor Shorted or Disconnected
26 Brake Lamp Switch - Switch Shorted
31 Auto Transmission Low/Reverse Solenoid - Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
32 Auto Transmission Underdrive Solenoid - Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
33 Auto Transmission Second Solenoid - Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
34 Auto Transmission Overdrive Solenoid - Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
36 Auto Transmission Damper Clutch Control Solenoid - Solenoid Shorted or Disconnected
41 First Shift -Shift not perfect
42 Second Shift - Shift not perfect
43 Third Shift - Shift not perfect
44 Fourth Shift - Shift not perfect
46 Reverse Shift - Shift not perfect
51 Engine ECM - Communication Error
52 Damper Clutch Control Solenoid - Malfunction
54 Auto Trans Control Relay - Ground Shorted or Disconnected
55 Auto Trans Control Relay - Contact Points melted or sticking
56 N Range Lamp System - Shorted to Ground
71 Auto Trans ECM - Malfunction

Hopefully you will get error code 22 or 23 as that is an easy one to fix.

(It's really hard to overstate the value of the error retention ability of the ECU for diagnosing engine and gearbox problems. The car knows what is wrong and is willing to tell you if you ask nicely, yet a lot of people replace bits on the engine on the basis that "this bit might be the problem". Almost did this myself with a Lancer that wouldn't restart when hot - I was almost ready to replace plugs, leads, coil packs, crank angle sensor, then I bridged pins 1 and 4 (=Earth) on the diagnostic connector and got the error code for the cam angle sensor. Quick trip to the wreckers, couple of dollars, and the car was back running normally.)

Once you get your head around the process it literally takes 5 minutes to read the codes. Seeing your first post was 6 weeks ago, perhaps soon would be good, before the gearbox really fails?

My KF gearbox sometimes flares in to gears under certain conditions. Can also shift hard in to reverse, like a thud. Flushing the gearbox and proper fluid didnt really change it at all. Been like that, and unchanged for more than 6 months now.... I wonder if I should be concerned? lol

Apparently the early 3rd gen gearboxes (TE/TF/KE/KF) had an issue with this. Not sure when it was rectified though! To solve it, you have to disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect it, and go through the transmission learning procedure.
Read here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86194&highlight=transmission+relearn+procedure

It says that it will learn itself over time from a reset. That does seem to be true, but if the flares start without a reset, then you need to reset and do the learning procedure.

Thanks for the reply Max. I am pretty sure that this is something heat related because when it went into limp mode originally, it was a very hot day. Yesterday was 30 degrees but that's when it decided to work again. I am pretty sure that this isn't the last time I will see that light flash. Fixing itself just seems to be too good to be true.

I will read the codes now that I know how to DIY. It is my brothers car and he didn't want to spend the money to go and get it checked out or read by a pro. I sure as hell wouldn't pay for it.