Hi all

I am trying to do the above, for the first time on a Magna (TF) without a workshop manual.

I have fumbled my way so far and have got stuck at the point where I need to remove the driver's side engine mount. I have removed the top part but find I can't get enough clearance to remove the bottom part. What is the secret?

Is there a walk-through for this whole procedure on the forum?

Cheers

32Alpha

This might help...not 100% the same but configuration is very similar...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIiAviUnIgo

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/member.php?u=26497
Karj has a workshop download in his sig.

Hi all

I am trying to do the above, for the first time on a Magna (TF) without a workshop manual.

I have fumbled my way so far and have got stuck at the point where I need to remove the driver's side engine mount. I have removed the top part but find I can't get enough clearance to remove the bottom part. What is the secret?

Is there a walk-through for this whole procedure on the forum?

Cheers

32Alpha

Don't do it without the manual! (And a lot of reading/comprehension of the details regarding the process and torque wrench settings.)
If you get stuck at that point, there is little hope for you to do it correctly!

Lower engine mount: Support engine on jack plus piece of wood, at the sump, you need to lift engine up to access the bolts at the top, lower it as far as you can to get to the bolts at the bottom, with a 14 mm ring spanner. Lots of wriggling required to get that lump of alloy out of the engine bay. (Doing them up later needs to be done in the right sequence, as well.)

Advice:
Get the manual.
Read, understand.
Get the tools: torque wrench, spanners, sockets, tensioner tool.

This is NOT a job where you can guess your way through, too many things can go wrong if not done correctly, and leave you with a damaged engine.

Please for the sake of your remaining mounts ignore the above, you need to support the motor and you can access all from underneath, once the front cam pulley is off mount will fit through top with bolts still in the mounts

Hi all

Thanks for everyone's input and advice. The manual will help. Having rebuilt my first engine in 1968, I am not exactly a novice in the matters of valve timing, torque settings etc etc, it's just that I thought there may be some shortcuts that may have taken me days to figure out without assistance.

Thanks again

32Alpha.

Yeah, taking that front pulley off would make it much easier . . . . will try that next time. (3 years from now) lol

I've done two of these now. (Mal's done hundreds if not millions. lol)

My advice is still . . . . do it by the book, less chance of things going wrong. Rebuild my first engine in 1965, but cam belts hadn't been invented then. lol

I've taken the mount out fom the top but you have to unbolt the water bottle, power steering reservior, clamp bolts on the power steering metal pipes and the electric valve (which I think is for the cruise control) and move them aside. After that, just jiggle everything around and possibly release the tension on the old timing belt. It's a fiddly job and I think Mitsubishi forgot that anyone would want to service their vehicles.

(I remember our old Cortina OHC where the belt broke out on the road and with about two spanners I changed the timing belt still on the side of the road and then got going. It was not much more work than changing a fan belt. Also, the engine did not have an interference valve set up like the Mitusubishi V6).

It's a fiddly job and I think Mitsubishi forgot that anyone would want to service their vehicles.



Engineering wise ease of factory assembly is given first priority. The whole subframe, complete with engine, gearbox, front suspension etc is inserted into the bodywork from below, that lower section of the engine mount has two huge studs to guide it into place to engage the top half of the engine mount already attached to the body, quick and easy. Ease of belt replacement 5 years down the track is a secondary engineering consideration, "just do-able" is acceptable.

Still an easier job than replacing the chains and guides on the old 2.6L though. lol

I've taken the mount out fom the top but you have to unbolt the water bottle, power steering reservior, clamp bolts on the power steering metal pipes and the electric valve (which I think is for the cruise control) and move them aside. After that, just jiggle everything around and possibly release the tension on the old timing belt. It's a fiddly job and I think Mitsubishi forgot that anyone would want to service their vehicles.

(I remember our old Cortina OHC where the belt broke out on the road and with about two spanners I changed the timing belt still on the side of the road and then got going. It was not much more work than changing a fan belt. Also, the engine did not have an interference valve set up like the Mitusubishi V6).

Dont know what you are doing there champ as the PS system does not get touched, just the cruise and the washer bottle

It took me a while to find,Anyhow i used this as a guide on my son's car.
http://www.club3g.com/forum/maintenance/118492-how-change-timing-belt-v6-pictures.html

I'm not talking about removing the power steering just the three bolts that hold the reservoir. This helps the jiggling procedure as the mount comes out just where the reservoir is. Also had to undo the clamps on the metal power steering pipes along the top of the chassis rail to give about an extra 10mm of movement. Also, this allowed me to move one of the wiring loom cables that was also in the way and fastened by the power steering bolts.

In addition, I think the resevoir is in the way if you want to use a torque wrench on the large bolt that goes through the centre of the rubber mount.

While you are reading this, I have another post on the forum.

I want to know if the camshaft & crankshaft oil seal recesses have a step in them so that when new seals are fitted they go hard up against the recess or is it a clear bore which means you have to be careful about how far you push them in.

No step just be careful

I do on average 7 timing belts per month and have never even struggled to get out the mount with not touching the power steering bottle or hoses

Possibly it depends on the model. My car is not like the one in the link above. The reservoir pipes are right in front of the mounting bolt.

Can you answer my question about recesses for for the oil seals.

Sorry Madmagna about asking twice. I just read your answer to the oil seal question. I'll be careful how far they go in. Thanks