Hi, I'm trying to work out a problem with my 94 ks verada derby car. I was given it by a scrappy in unknown condition.

It starts and idles nicely after a couple of cranks, but will not rev unless the throttle is pushed very slowly. If I stab the throttle quickly, it just dies. The engine light is on.

I've swapped the airflow meter, changed the fuel pump and fuel, checked the front 3 plugs, which look almost new (leads too). I cut the exhaust behind the cat and the inside of that looks intact.

Any pointers of where next?

Andy

Check all your vacuum lines mate. Thats where i'd be looking first.

Coil will often cause this

Sorry I checked vacuume too, all good.

I have an old 4cyl coil, I'll swap it over.

4 cyl coil wouldn,t help .
off topic if the headlights are still in it take them out

Parras were gone when I got it.

Checked plugs, Checked leads, Swapped afm, Swapped coil, Removed exhaust, checked for vac leaks, cleaned throttle body and stepper motor, swapped fuel pump, cleaned injectors.......

Any other pointers?

Andy.

Checked the timing marks on the cams and harmonic balancer, all lining up.

Out of curiosity I Gave it a heap of advance on the dizzy, and now it revs a lot better, almost how it should be.....

How does the automatic advance work on these things? I've only played with the old vac style.

Stupid miss is back one week out from the derby. I swapped the tps sensor, and it didn't do a thing, but here's the strange thing. I could not hear a difference with the tps sensor disconnected.......checked the leads again........ I'd swap the dizzy and ecu but I don't have a spare ATM.

What am I missing?

You really need to check what error code comes up thats causing the 'check engine' light. It should tell you whats wrong. You can use an LED with a resistor to blink the codes. Maybe even a test light but not a multimeter.

timing is VERY critical. If the dizzy is even one tooth out, it can cause big problems. There is also a electronic advance disable wire that you either have to earth when you set the timing, or give it positive power. A workshop manual explains this in detail.

Also, make sure the coolant temperature sensor is working. I made my own with the temp. sensor from the air conditioner. It is electrically nearly identical to the actual coolant temp. sensor.

FYI it ended up being a crack in the rotor. I swapped the whole dizzy and it went fine. Mabe a bit too fine.......



http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp326/Andrewe123456789/6c7c02523670cbda8d2688d795f4be09.jpg

Thanks for updating us on the final solution although I think it may have a few more problems now.

No problems mechanically, although I did shatter my last origional factory mag. 1 did 5 Derbys the other did 8, and probably a dozen tyres between them.