have a TP with 280,000 Km on the clock.
Replaced a leaky water pump with one from the wreckers. Renewed O ring as well.
Original pump had corroded where the O ring was fixed in the engine block.
The 'new ' pump has leaks from the internal seal and I'm wondering what to do next. Another wrecker or replace the seal. Has anyone got some thoughts.

if you can take it back and check out any tr,ts 4cyl you may find a newer pump

Tks,
Actually the pump was from a TR/TS.
Wrecker had a 1 week warranty which was well and truly over before it showed problems.
I wondered if anyone has taken a pump apart and knows what to expect inside.
I'll probably pull it apart and see whats there.

there,s a thread about it some where . i believe it was Cheyenne in the gen 1 section with pictures
never pulled one apart myself as i have lots off spares lol . im down in the valley if your close by ill dig one out for you

there is a new pump on ebay
typed in "magna water pump" and it came up

As Magna Buff says go for the new pump as a used pump is an unknown quantity.....sometimes you get lucky with them but if they have been out of water for sometime and sitting the seals usually will fail as they can dry out. Also sitting and not being used for sometime is also bad news as you can get internal corossion that will in the end have the same affect.

thanks to all for the suggestions.
The pump is OK when hot, but when cold at rest, the pump leaks from the internal seal. As the air temperature rises and falls from day to night, the pump leaks during the day and at night, when colder, the slight vacuum stops the leaks.
The characteristic of the leak suggests some cheap seal arrangement and not a rotary mechanical carbon/ceramic type. This type of seal wouldnt dry out so is probably like what veeone says.
Will let you know how it all works out.

That is interesting because there is a leak somewhere in my TP sedan's cooling system that I haven't been able to trace. It only loses a very small amount but because of the water/air leak, the radiator does not replenish itself from the overflow bottle when the engine cools down. I never thought of the water pump seal but will now check it out.

I replaced my water pump with a new aftermarket one about six months ago when I had overheating problems. When I took the old pump out there was nothing wrong with it but I replaced it anyway and still have the old one. The overheating problem in that case turned out to be due to corrosion of the water pump back. When you buy a new water pump, only the front half is supplied because the impeller and seals are in the front half. You normally get something like this:

http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/wpump.jpg

There are no moving or wearing parts in the back half, so theoretically the back never needs replacing. However it can be affected by corrosion. In my case, the raised lip of one of the output pipes was corroded, so it was leaking between there and the hose. Fortunately I was able to buy a new one on eBay like this:

http://users.tpg.com.au/acheson1/images/wpback.jpg

Always had a complete pump when i have bought one as they corrode where it fits into the block. Vee

Always had a complete pump when i have bought one as they corrode where it fits into the block.

That's on the front half (at the extrene right of the first pic above). You can just see the o-ring that seals where it plugs into the block but yes, that's also a common corrosion point. However one of the points I was trying to make is that, when you buy a water pump off ebay (or almost anywhere else), you don't get the back half unless you buy it separately. For example there are 14 water pumps listed on ebay at the moment and not one includes the back.

Its amazing the different experience people have with the same item.
My original pump failed where the O ring is supported and it seems vee and cold are aware of this.
My original is a TP Magna. The nipple connections for the heater are a bit corroded and cold's picture identifies the problem.
The dud wreckers pump came off a TR/TS (probably about a 1998 model) and this pump had been treated with a rubbery compound to suppress corrosion.
Normally my attitude to cooling systems is that 'THEY MUST NOT LEAK' that means they NEVER have to be topped up with water. My TP was bought in about 2000 and I never had to top it up. Corrosion therefore should not have been a problem; BUT, it did corrode near the O ring. Bloody nuisance really. Highlights the need to keep the cooling water in good condition with ample corrosion compound.
I considered the possibility to machine the corroded bore, but this aint straightforward.

OK.
The water pump.
These comments applicable to 4G54 engine water pump.
I bought a new one from Queensland, ($50) and the old wreckers model from a TR I used its back section.
Dismantled the original TR pump.
The bearing is a S16140W. It was OK. There are several variants of the particular design. I wasn't much interested in the bearing.
The seal is interesting.
As far as I can tell, it is a KY type FB-12. This is a unit type of seal and is fitted to the 12 mm shaft to a specific working length(17.7 mm). Once set, it should stay in position, BUT, I don't like the concept of a rotary seal not having a hard shoulder. When I tried to remove the seal from the original TP water pump, I stuffed up the seal and could not get it to reseal.
Interesting thing about the TP water pump design is that the water pump impeller is cast iron and has a counter bore on the seal side. This original pump design (I guess) used a seal type KY BT-A2. This is a 2 part seal and the rotating part of the seal is inserted into the impeller. The impeller would be pressed on to the shaft to a depth of 1mm below the end of the shaft.
Using this impeller with the unit seal results in a clearance between the impeller and the rotating part of the seal. So the impeller provides no shoulder for the seal rotating part.
The wreckers pump I got off a TR had a different impeller design. This was a pressed steel part and I could not get it off the shaft without distorting it. The new pump (from China) had the same pressed steel impeller design. To get the original pump apart, I had to make up a set of pullers.
Given the cost of a new pump, repair of the old one was uneconomic.
The original pump was leaking at the bore section where the pump inserts into the engine block. The corrosion here has been mentioned in other posts. However, I found that it was possible to use an 'O' ring of 1/16th inch section around the OD of the bore and to compress this ring into a champfer on the engine block. This sealed quite well but unfortunately I tried this after I stuffed around trying to remove the seal. (The seal leaked but the pump to engine block didn't).
The 'O' ring used to seal the water pump to the engine block is a 4 mm metric size 'O' ring. From memory this is a 33.5mm 'O' ring.
The usual suppliers seem to stock imperial 'O' rings and there is a huge gap in size progression between 1/8th inch (3.2) mm and 3/16th inch (4.7mm). There is no 5/32 (4 mm) so the metric size is required).
There is a 33.5 x 4 mm metric 'O' ring
Not much more I can say about the water pump.
Hope this helps.
Thanks to the other contributors for their help.

Great stuff Rumpfy. I'm glad there are guys like you out there that steer us in the right direction.

I sourced a water pump for $31 online. The Repco brand I replaced it with was identical. I'd never by a second hand w/p because the time, petrol, and scrounging are not cost effective.

I'd never by a second hand w/p because the time, petrol, and scrounging are not cost effective.
Might only last a few weeks being used as no idea what work it has done.......ticking time bomb really!! Vee