Hi Anyone know what the recharge capacity in Grams is for the TW VRX Air conditioning,
thanks.:hmm:

TJ section of manual:
Uses R-134a(HFC-134a), Approx. 630–670 grams.
Lubricant is SUN PAG 56, 170–190 ml.
Both are "first fill" values.

TW should be the same(?)

If it is completely empty, it will need evacuating and filling with both refrigerant and lubricant. Pressure gauges on the high/low sides tell when the right amount of refrigerant has been added. Not a DIY exercise, unless you have the tools.

Thanks for your reply that's the charge we put into it (My refrigeration mechanic did) but its cycling in and out every few seconds and looking into the dryer sight glass shows a foamy lot of bubbles after the compressor runs,any ideas would be most welcome.

Thanks for your reply that's the charge we put into it (My refrigeration mechanic did) but its cycling in and out every few seconds and looking into the dryer sight glass shows a foamy lot of bubbles after the compressor runs,any ideas would be most welcome.

Was the system properly evacuated or was it working before it was topped up? Was it fully empty and exposed to the air? Needs a new receiver/dryer in the latter case.

He needs to put the pressure gauges onto the high and low sides and work out if it is cycling from too much, or not enough refrigerant. System has both a high and low pressure switch in it, that will cut power to the compressor if the line pressure is outside the normal range.

Bubbles in the sight-glass: from manual.

SIGHT GLASS REFRIGERANT LEVEL TEST
The sight glass is a refrigerant level indicator. To check the refrigerant
level, clean the sight glass and start the vehicle engine
and hold engine speed at 1500 rpm. Push the A/C button to operate
the compressor, place the blower switch to high and
move the temperature control lever to max cool. After operating
for a few minutes in this manner, check the sight glass.
1. If bubbles are visible occasionally in the sight glass and
disappear when engine speed is raised, the magnetic
clutch is engaged, the compressor discharge line is warm
and the compressor inlet line is cool; the system may be
overcharged.
2. If the sight glass is clear, the magnetic clutch is engaged
and there is no significant temperature difference between
compressor inlet and discharge lines; the system has most
of its refrigerant charge.
3. If the sight glass shows foam or bubbles, the system could
be low on refrigerant or the receiver drier is restricted. The
system has to be tested, leak checked then recharged with
refrigerant.

Pressure values:

Dual pressure switch High pressure switch OFF: 3,140, ON: 2,550
Low pressure switch OFF: 200, ON: 220

So the low pressure side should read above 220, and the high pressure side should read above 2,550 but less than 3,140.

That is how I read those numbers anyway.
Obviously, engine has to be running and air turned on.

Thanks again for your replies a bit of history might help,
When I bought this Car the AC compressor had blown apart internally so I bought a second hand compressor off the same model and put it on,replaced the dryer and then after a recharge it was found that the Expansion valve was also out of commission so I replaced that as well,now the car sat overnight with no refrigerant in the system as the expansion valve was absent the next day it was replaced and the system recharged so i am hoping this hasn't done the dryer in $180 each in NZ.

If the original compressor blowing up left debris in the system, it needs flushing out - no idea how to do this - otherwise problems like the TX valve stuffing up will reoccur.

Compressed air might do it if you remove lines etc off the car.

Thanks It seemed to have a bit of fine chewed up alloy bits floating around in the oil and gas that came out of it, the compressor had literally blown to bits internally and them burnt the clutch to resemble a overcooked mass of melted metal and coil.
I will just run with it for now as I am totally over fiddling around under the bonnet of the beast.

.

Thanks It seemed to have a bit of fine chewed up alloy bits floating around in the oil and gas that came out of it, the compressor had literally blown to bits internally and them burnt the clutch to resemble a overcooked mass of melted metal and coil.
I will just run with it for now as I am totally over fiddling around under the bonnet of the beast.

.

Yep, give it a miss for now.
Once that oil/alloy spreads around the aircon lines, there is no way it can be decontaminated completely.
At some future date, if cool air is important where you live, you could find a donor car and pull all of the air con parts out of that, and put them in your car, but it would be a hell of a job, dash out etc. Then new receiver dryer, regas with oil, and cross your fingers. lol

I've had older cars with dead aircons and didn't bother fixing them, but then the TW isn't that old. Up to you.

the only way to be completely sure that you have cleaned out your system is to replace the evap core, dryer, tx, and condensor, after flushing every line with a/c system flush and a flushing tool. and for safety sake i,d get the compressor serviced. It's big bucks but you could end up spending that kind of money if something goes bang after doing half the job.