well...
it's been made apparent that the place i took my te only did a half assed job when the auto service was done in april..

i asked for the pan gasket to be changed as it was weeping. and as i now have a wicked oil leak i found it was never touched. pretty much a drain and refill with a new filter.
hasnt harmed the box thank f@#$k, so you can imagine how impressed i was when i found the source of the oil leak.

isnt the first time in the past i've found paid for repairs not carried out. so i suppose if i want it done right, i'll do it myself

and before anyone suggests go and speak to them.. i have done nearly 25thousand k's since. and they didnt seem to be able to give me a clear indication on how often it needs to be done. which i found poor from a mitsubishi specialist

so what is the process of doing the trans properly?
as im very mechanicly minded. done most of my own work on my own cars over the years including getting bushes done myself to clear rwc's etc

and any oils better than others?
i'm looking at doing it during the week as i cant drive it far atm without topping it up

thanks for looking and reading through my rant..
matt

there is plenty off posts about this do a search
its not a hard thing to do a auto service dyi .

Pan has no gasket, it should be a rtv sealant seal

I recommend 40 k OR if goes off colour for changes

there is plenty off posts about this do a search
its not a hard thing to do a auto service dyi .

Search function for some reason doesnt like my samsung galaxy..

I have done them in the past on other makes. Was just looking for any pointers and just a opportunity to vent.
As most would be annoyed at least if you'd paid for a service and didnt get it.

Pan has no gasket, it should be a rtv sealant seal

I recommend 40 k OR if goes off colour for changes

Thanks mal.
Mine appears to have a cork gasket. But who knows till the sump is removed.

Ah cool i'll have fun with the silicon when i go to fix it. As tightening it up has slowed it down. As i have no car to borrow till tuesday.
So i'll be topping it up before its driven as i need to get to work.

Hmm so im probably due then. As i do alot of city and highway driving.
I'm not far off doing 30 thou since i have owned the magna

When you remove the pan it must be spotless when reinstalled and not too much sealant as it can break away and end up damaging it internally

When you remove the pan it must be spotless when reinstalled and not too much sealant as it can break away and end up damaging it internally

Cool. Will be doing so as i don't fancy pulling it off twice.
I have found plain steel wool works wonders to get sealant off sump pans.

Yeah im aware it can do internal damage if chunks break off. Im not heavy handed on sumps etc.

Pan has no gasket, it should be a rtv sealant seal

I recommend 40 k OR if goes off colour for changes

well i have a oddity for you mal..
pulled my sump off to find a machine cut gasket. needless to say as i couldnt get another. the tube of silicon was used to make my own
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j76/89S-PACK/te%20magna/20121101_134715.jpg

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j76/89S-PACK/te%20magna/20121101_134702.jpg

i wonder what its off though. as mitsubishi had no idea why mine had a gasket either

Nothing odd, a lot of people do put gaskets on these when they remove the pan, out of the factory they dont have them but many do add them.

Personally I dont like using the gaskets as the cork tends to compress and over time will leak

Nothing odd, a lot of people do put gaskets on these when they remove the pan, out of the factory they dont have them but many do add them.

Personally I dont like using the gaskets as the cork tends to compress and over time will leak
yeah? i'd be curious what the gasket is off though
true. the surfaces were quite clean. so it may of been like that for some time as i couldnt find any old silicon.

this doesnt appear to be cork. more like a thick gasket paper.
i tend to use whatever is meant to be there from factory etc. i've had a few cork ones go to shit aswell. but where the pan is, its not fun to change.
as i had to do mine with the lower rad hose in place.

Probably an undocumented running change during Mitsu's assembly line processes, changing from the gasket to the RTV method. Not uncommon. Good clean, 3 mm bead with the right RTV sealant down the middle of the contact face and going on the inside of the mounting holes, assemble, let set, fill up, good to go.