Anyone got a 'quickshifter' for their manual Magna's? If so, how is it, who made it, is it worth it and did you have to get used to it?

I have one, got it from RPW about 9 months ago.
It basically shortens the amount the stick moves into the gates.
It really is a simple mod, just has the bottom of the stick and the arm for the cable lengthened and spacers under the whole shifter and longer mounting bolts.
It does the job but not flashy.

me and killbilly have been playin around with the idea of modifying the original shifter....so far it looks like the pivot point has been moved up about 15-20mm. So cutting the original under the pivot point and adding more material, and in-turn to compensate for the increase in height, cutting the top of the shifter where the thread for the gearknob is.
Would really prefer to get a spare shifter before i start cutting anything though :P

I've got the same unit (RPW one that is). No getting used to it but you can feel the difference. Worthwhile I say.

im just cutting my stick .has any one thougth of puttin a straight shifter stick in cause i hate it how it comes out bends to the left i hate this when u got passangers u keep feelign their legs if u make straight would this be any better a shifting ??

Got the RPW one as well.......love it, one of the best mods i have done.

does the rpw one take out the stupid bend to the left ???

I f@&king hate that bend in the shifter :rant:

RPW shifter still bends.. it's just a modified regular shifter with the pivot point moved.. kinda like Samurai's suggesting.

But It's like 220 plus 110 that you get back when you send your shifter over!! So 330 initial lay out. That's INSANE!

I'd love a short shifter but the price is way too high, which is why I've been looking into making it myself (with help) and/or sourcing it from OS, as there are 3000GT shifters that are exactly the same and the short shifters are heaps cheaper.

I'd love a short shifter but the price is way too high, which is why I've been looking into making it myself (with help) and/or sourcing it from OS, as there are 3000GT shifters that are exactly the same and the short shifters are heaps cheaper.
Do they only suit 2nd gens or are they 3rd gen friendly too?

2nd gen as far as I can tell.

Do you have a pic of the 3rd gen shifter?

This is a pic of their old version of short shifter next to a 3000GT stock shifter which is exactly the same as my TR V6 manual shifter.

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~baker/shifter1.jpg

and a pic of their version 3 model, compared to Im not sure what (possibly a dodge stealth shifter??)

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~baker/ShifterV3Comparison.jpg

And finally one of the V3 shifter on it's own:

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~baker/ShifterV3.jpg

But as you can see the mounting points are the same on all of them. So I'm 99% sure that it'd fit and work well.

And this one from 3sx:

http://www.3sxperformance.com/installs/short-shifter-up/index.html

3rd gen stock shifter looks like this

Ahh well in that case those units I showed wont fit.

Damn that's some amateur welding on the RPW shifters :shock:

Damn that's some amateur welding on the RPW shifters :shock:

None of the pictures I put up are RPW units.

Damn that's some amateur welding :shock:


lol i was just thinking that as i was lookin at the pics......dodgy crunts :bowrofl:

I've got the same unit (RPW one that is). No getting used to it but you can feel the difference. Worthwhile I say.

Totally agree - had it in my car - was great!!

Manual

I think I am going to pull mine out and cut the gear shaft with the drop saw and weld it back together with say 30mm removed.

Can't see how it wouldn't work? It would get rid of the 'feel up your passengers leg' kink in it too! :)

I think I am going to pull mine out and cut the gear shaft with the drop saw and weld it back together with say 30mm removed.

Can't see how it wouldn't work? It would get rid of the 'feel up your passengers leg' kink in it too! :)
Just to make it look like a quick shifter? Quicker shifters aren't just shorter, they move the pivot point to allow faster changes.

Well, although the pivot point as such hasn't moved. The shorter arm would mean the movement required to actually change gear would be less. The drawback of a shorter arm would be a lack of leverage (this exists in short shifters anyway), making the gear changes harder. But you would end up with a nice a short gear lever (the magna one is way to long ;))

Try changing gears holding the centre of the shaft ... not the gear knob. Would give the same effect. You will get a shorter throw. I would be interested in comparing that 'cheap' mod versus an actual shortshifter kit for the magna.

It is my belief that a short shifter kit moves the pivot point to maintain the existing height of the shaft, ours are long enuf to remove 30mm easy. Try doing that in a WRX or SUPRA and you'd have no shaft left (hence the pivot point movement required to achieve the same short throw result but maintaining shaft length).

The thing it's it's not a shorter throw.

The throw is determined by, not the length of the shaft above the pivot point, but below the pivot point.

All you'll do is create an illusion that it's a shorter throw because the top part is moving less.

What you want is to effectively move the pivot point up by shortening the top and lengthening the bottom.

If you just shorten the top all you'll do is make it look good and create a nice illusion for yourself.

The reason the RPW quickshifter is almost the same height as the stock shifter is because with the pivot point moved upward an inch or so the length of shaft below the pivot point is too long to sit in the space provided - that is, with the bottom of the shaft touching the bottom of the shifter well (for want of a better name) the plate that the bolts go through floats a good 1/2" over the surface it's meant to bolt on to.

RPW supplies four 1" spacers that raise the shifter back up which is why it seems to be the same height even though the throw length is dramatically reduced.

The thing it's it's not a shorter throw.

The throw is determined by, not the length of the shaft above the pivot point, but below the pivot point.

Wrong. Sorry killbilly, you are definitely wrong. The throw is determined by BOTH the shaft length above and below the fulcrum. See attached.

If you shorten the top and lengthen the bottom you move the fulcrum point up and remove EVEN MORE 'leverage'. Obviously shortening the upper stick only, does not move the fulcrum point, but it does reduce leverage, and reduces throw. It won't give as much of a reduction in throw, but it is certainly closer than you think.

The bonus with just shortening the upper stick ... you end up with a much lower gear stick. not the long stick that is stock.

Wrong. Sorry killbilly, you are definitely wrong. The throw is determined by BOTH the shaft length above and below the fulcrum. See attached.

If you shorten the top and lengthen the bottom you move the fulcrum point up and remove EVEN MORE 'leverage'. Obviously shortening the upper stick only, does not move the fulcrum point, but it does reduce leverage, and reduces throw. It won't give as much of a reduction in throw, but it is certainly closer than you think.

The bonus with just shortening the upper stick ... you end up with a much lower gear stick. not the long stick that is stock.
Umm... the main reason for getting a quickshifter isn't just to reduce the visible throw at the top. It's about having a shifter that shifts quicker. With moving the pivot, the bottom end moves at a faster rate than previous and chopping the top doesn't achieve this. Both will still require similar amount of effort but slightly more than stock. With the top being cut, you need the extra effort but don't gain the increase in speed.

You guys need a physics lesson. :nuts:

By shortening the top you are in fact reducing the speed and distance the gear knob will travel in order for the gear to engage (or the opposing side to have covered the SAME distance as per a stock unit).

Its all about the DISTANCE FROM THE FULCRUM. As you can see the difference in distance travelled between the 2nd and 3rd example is only half the gain again versus the difference between example 1 (i.e stock) and example 2.

Yes the gains of shortening the top are not AS SIGNIFICANT as also raising the fulcrum, but the gains are there none the less!!!

For what it's worth, I agree with you tooSlow :)

Fair enough I stand corrected.

I still think that you'd be far better off doing it right the first time by extending it undeneath as well.

If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right the first time. And I still reckon your results from that will be amplified by your mind, there won't be that much difference.

And 50% gains is better than paying $220

My only concern with shortening the top shaft is, how much can you take off before the stick becomes TOO short. When I eventually get around to it I'll let you all know :)

I am after a lower stick. So increasing the lower shaft, but keeping the overall height for the 'shortest' possible shift isn't what I am after (but obviously, as explained, I will get a shorter shift anyway, just not quite as much).

One advantage of raising the fulcrum, is that the gear shaft at either extremity doesn't lean as far forward or backward. By shortening just the top shaft you are still maintaining the existing 'angle' when full forward or back (see pics).

Cool stuff..let us know how it goes :)