I have a Verada with a very twitchy starting problem.
It seems to only start when I jimmy the key back and forth many times inside the ignition barrel itself.
But it seems as soon as it gets in contact, it starts up right away.

Could this possibly the key transponder chip itself? or the ignition barrel?
It would be difficult to change the entire barrel, ECU, and door locks etc im guessing. But can
it also be something else like a solenoid or relay?

I was thinking if the easier way would be to maybe install a push button start? Then once its in ignition I can just push the button. Cheaper and easier than the entire Chip key system.

Just to clarify, does the engine crank and not start or is the engine not cranking at all

Its starts up straight away once I get the weird key movement correct.

Had a Sigma once with the same. It was the switch inside the ignition barrel that had overheated and melted the insulation so that the contacts were no longer making reliable contact when I turned it to the START position.
No idea if that part of the ignition can be replaced without affecting the immobiliser part. If so, you idea of identifying the correct wiring and bringing it out to a separate switch may be the way to go.

Just don't push that button once the car is running!

Haha oh gosh yeah that wont end too well ! I have spare barrel from a TF magna sitting in my garage, I might see if its possible to change over some parts, otherwise I think a push button start would be the way to go... I mean.. its what all the Celebrities have in their cars right?

Can anyone help me with the wiring diagram please? Havent needed to hot wire my car before :P It seems easy enough on the movies.. haha
Im sure the thick constant 12v+ has something to do with it (Yellow from memory), so should I just source from wiring diagrams the other wire that goes to the starter motor ? Or even feed a new wire from the barrel straight to the starter?

You have not answered the question,

....does the engine crank when you have this issue, I dont care what it does when it finally starts, to diagnose anything need to know if the engine is cranking (turning over) when yo have a no start or does the engine just crank away and not fire

Oh and you can not hot wire these cars, they have the immob.

When I try start it normally, I hear a small click from the engine bay (some relay) then nothing else, no response from any other parts (starter motor etc) Only when I jimmy the key start/on/start/on/start/on etc many times does it occasionally trigger the starter motor, and when that goes, the car starts and runs normally without any struggle.

Sounds like the starter motor to me, the solonoid will be the click, often a few jolts will then cause the brushes which are most likely worn to then make contact and allow the car to start

You can not guess however on a forum like this, you need to test before you start ripping the car to bits, check for power at the starter exciter wire. It is either the ignition switch or starter or inhibitor, all easy fixes without the need to be hacking other parts into the car

When I try start it normally, I hear a small click from the engine bay (some relay) then nothing else, no response from any other parts (starter motor etc) Only when I jimmy the key start/on/start/on/start/on etc many times does it occasionally trigger the starter motor, and when that goes, the car starts and runs normally without any struggle.

"Jimmy the key" . . . .oh, you meant going from ignition on to start numerous times? As above, more likely to be the starter motor or a voltage drop in the start circuit.

Easy way to check which it is, but don't try if you don't feel confident. Take it to an autoelectrician instead.
Disconnect the 12 V feed to the starter motor solenoid (small spade connector) then run a wire from the connection on the starter motor to the positive of the battery. Check first the car is in neutral, handbrake on. Touch the wire briefly to the battery terminal. If it cranks, it's a voltage drop, if it just clicks it's the starter motor.

An auto electrician can wire in a relay if it is a voltage drop, or recon the starter motor for you.

Thanks heaps for the help fellas. Very much appreciated, would send you both a Cold beverage if I could. I will try this all tonight actually and post my feedback here. Im not too bad around the motor/electricals of a car, so I will try fix it at home before I send it to a auto electrician.

Next post hopefully issue has been fixed, if not ill bring some more feedback from what you guys suggested.

You could go and see Mal (madmagna) yourself and hand him the bear. I reckon if you are not too far away from him then take it to him to get it sorted out. If you are going to do it yourself, just make sure everything is turned off and if you have expensive ICE, then take out the fuse for it.

If any of you boys are around South Eastern Melbourne, more than happy to, I mean lets be honest, an electrician would be far dearer than a slab of beer. But on a serious note, if MadMagna can help me out and isnt too far, i'd rather take it to him than my mechanic who hates Magnas/Veradas for whatever reason.

If any of you boys are around South Eastern Melbourne, more than happy to, I mean lets be honest, an electrician would be far dearer than a slab of beer. But on a serious note, if MadMagna can help me out and isnt too far, i'd rather take it to him than my mechanic who hates Magnas/Veradas for whatever reason.
According to his mits-fix post (http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98153), he is in Bayswater North which is directly East of Melbourne CBD.

Geez small world.. Had no idea Madmagna was Mits-fix. I called them up couple weeks back looking for a KJ bumper :P Need a truck load of small spares here and there, so I will pay a visit soon. Crickets over now so time to head to the garage and see what I can narrow the problem down too.

Geez small world.. Had no idea Madmagna was Mits-fix. I called them up couple weeks back looking for a KJ bumper :P Need a truck load of small spares here and there, so I will pay a visit soon. Crickets over now so time to head to the garage and see what I can narrow the problem down too.

It's definitely worth it. He'll be able to hook you up. Hell, write a shopping list and drive on up there. The only thing stopping me from driving there (from Shepparton) is the distance and the fact that I'm broke and just can't afford to be pimping out my car haha.

my vrx wasnt starting for a while it was just dirty MAS

my vrx wasnt starting for a while it was just dirty MAS

Sorry im not too sure what a MAS is ?

Sorry im not too sure what a MAS is ?

Pretty sure he's referring to the MAF (Mass Air Flow Sensor). Maybe give that a clean. If your car has a decent amount of KMs give it a crack anyway.

Hey so if it's the starter motor, does anyone have an idea how much it costs to replace? I'm having similar issues and can't find anyone who has replaced one on the forums (sorry to hijack).

Only thing, I don't drink and beer does not pay the rent lol

never mind

[Update] I bridged a wire from the 12V+ direct to the starter solenoid and the car fired up and started.
* I flicked it quickly once to hear for a click noise, then while in the "On" position of the key, tried it again and it started straight away.

Okay guys I bought a "Momentary Push on switch" to use as a seperate starter. I noticed that the cable going to the starter solenoid that I bridged is black with yellow stripe.
I also noticed that there is a thick black w/ yellow stripe wire plugged into the back of my ignition barrel. Would the starter switch work if I bridged that with a constant 12V+ ? Also is the thick red wire coming into the
ignition barrel a constant 12V+

Seeing the starter works well when you feed it 12V directly, the fault would be in the wiring, the ignition switch or the auto box inhibitor switch. It's best to bypass all of these if you don't want to troubleshoot further.

Go battery --> fuse holder with 30 Amp fuse---> switch----> starter motor.

I hope your new starter switch is rated for at least 30 Amps, and has some sort of safety device like a flip cover to prevent you pushing it accidentally. If your car is manual no problems, but if it's an auto, bypassing the inhibitor switch (which probably is the problem anyway) is not a good idea. Probably won't pass a roadworthy check that way.

I think you need to invest in a multi metre or at least a test light. Even a torch bulb with one wire going to wires you want to test and the other to chasis and then flinck switch to various positions.

Seriously, take it to an auto electrician to locate and rectify the problem.

Personally rather try fix my own cars and as a last resort go to mechanics. Im currently doing an automotive course myself. Hence why im also trying to learn a few of these things. Could someone explain how I can test the auto inhibitor switch? *Also the switch I bought handles 60A at 12V.

Inhibitor switch is located on top of the gearbox. Check the wiring and adjustment, look for road crud all over it. Needs to be disconnected from electricals and shifter cable and checked with a multimeter for continuity in the "P" and "N" positions to see if the contacts are still good. Maybe take it right off, and clean it, possibly visually inspect the contacts if that is possible. (Haven't had a close up look at one). If it is sus, plenty at the wreckers.

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/inhibitorswitch.jpg

Looks like a sealed unit, forget what I said about road crud and visually inspecting contacts. lol

Personally rather try fix my own cars and as a last resort go to mechanics. .

Fair enough, and most of us would, however putting in a "Push Start" button isn't really fixing the Problem.... Its overcoming the Problem. The fact you proved the Starter is not getting 12v via the Key, means you are half way there....

Push start button isnt fixing the problem true, but I was thinking this as a temp fix until I find the main problem as it's my daily commuter at the moment. Im worried that if it is the barrel, theyre maybe a lot involved changing all the associated components (ECU, Different door key etc).
I also replaced the auto inhibitor switch from the wreckers. Same result. No start from the key.

Personally rather try fix my own cars and as a last resort go to mechanics. Im currently doing an automotive course myself. Hence why im also trying to learn a few of these things. Could someone explain how I can test the auto inhibitor switch? *Also the switch I bought handles 60A at 12V.

So you will not take advice either?? I have clearly stated that the most likely issue is your starter motor, you can install 10 push buttons and a flux capacitor and even top up your headlight fluid fluid for all it matters, if the starter motor is worn then no amounts of buttons will help your cause. Remember also that even disturbing a faulty starter will often make them work as the usual cause is the brushes are worn, there is dust settled under the worn brushes, you disturb the brushes and then they make contact for that start.

So you will not take advice either?? I have clearly stated that the most likely issue is your starter motor, you can install 10 push buttons and a flux capacitor and even top up your headlight fluid fluid for all it matters, if the starter motor is worn then no amounts of buttons will help your cause. Remember also that even disturbing a faulty starter will often make them work as the usual cause is the brushes are worn, there is dust settled under the worn brushes, you disturb the brushes and then they make contact for that start.

I wasnt ignoring your advice Madmagna, but I was very sure from my knowledge that the starter motor was not the issue, I had tested the Starter anyway after you mentioned it.

Any ways I have great news! I fixed the problem this morning!!
It was the Ignition switch on the back of the barrel. I had an old barrel lying around from my old TF magna that had its barrel changed. Changed over the Ignition switch and BOOM starts up like normal :D

Thanks heaps to Madmax who suggested checking the Ignition switch. And everyone who helped with this! Being an apprentice mechanic it feels good to get these sorts of things fixed on your own (with the help of you guys :) )

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U0XVynhmkoU/UKVgcKRZAfI/AAAAAAAAABU/sgzBvJF-OPA/s640/Ignition%2520Switch.jpg

Just uploaded this in case anyone else has a similiar problem

I have a Verada with a very twitchy starting problem.
It seems to only start when I jimmy the key back and forth many times inside the ignition barrel itself.
But it seems as soon as it gets in contact, it starts up right away.

All this time you were on the right track. :)

Excellent! Car fixed, smiles all round, win-win for DIY!

Good to know the ignition switch on the Magna can suffer meltdown just like the Sigma ones, will file that info into my databank ( = brain) for trouble shooting purposes if I come across the same problem.

Glad it is fixed, post 10 I did state to check the switch lol

Thankfully Magna's unlike many other cars have a switch that can be removed from the barrel thus allowing replacement

good job!!
But

Being an apprentice mechanic it feels good to get these sorts of things fixed on your own
Don't seem to have much of a mentor where you are an apprentice at though.
Do they not help you out nowadays with problems??

Pardon me on that one Madmagna, you did also mention the ignition switch :) Thanks heaps the information ! As for a mentor... I dont really get taught much. Its really just me learning from working on cars since I was small. End of the day ill be getting a Certificate III in Automotive Engineering but not been taught a great deal. Great to have resources such as this forum to learn from though. In all honesty Ive found a lot more solutions on here than I ever have asking questions at work. That sounds very sad haha

Thankfully Magna's unlike many other cars have a switch that can be removed from the barrel thus allowing replacement

In addition you can also open the switch and clean the contacts as well (if installing one from the wreckers)

In addition you can also open the switch and clean the contacts as well (if installing one from the wreckers)

IIRC there are tiny springs under some of the sliding contacts. . . . easy to loose. If the fixed contacts are lose, they can be locked down with superglue, but if it is a burnt mess, bin it.