Hey guys, I just bought a 2001 TJ Wagon a week ago and I'm pretty impressed with the forum here. Loads of helpful members and posts!

One of the remotes I got doesn't really work. The lock/unlock buttons are VERY sticky and do not really move anymore. The unlock button still works if I press it in the right angle, so I know the battery is connected.
I wanted to clean the buttons with isopropyl alcohol with a high percentage. Unfortunately I had to find out that chemists aren't allowed to sell that stuff over the counter anymore, because kiddies sniff it or use it as solvent for nasty business (:nuts:). I used it in Europe all the time to clean electrical compounds...it did a good job on mobile phone pcbs with water damage.
Anyway - where the heck can I get some isopropyl alcohol? Or do you guys have other good ways to clean the buttons? I'm not even sure if it would work, but I think it's def worth a shot before buying a spare remote off ebay for 75 bucks.

Cheers

Jaycar or Altronics might be your best bets.

Awesome, thanks! They both sell it and they're both fairly close.

In case anybody dealt with the problem in another way and was successful, I'd love to hear your stories.
Otherwise I'll report how I went as soon as I get a chance to try fixing it.

Split the case open, remove the circuit board, remove battery, wash with methylated spirits. The buttons are sealed and you won't be able to clean them, but you could wash grot off them and possibly get them working smoothly again.

When dry check battery soldered connections and redo them if needed. Test the circuit board by itself after coding it to the car.

Chances are the buttons are worn out though.

The case is open, I was talking about the actual buttons themselves, not the rubber buttons on top. The actual buttons are sticky and can't really be pressed (don't "click").
The battery connectors are broken (surprise surprise!), but the connection is ok. I bent the connectors a little bit to increase the pressure - it does the trick.
I guess there isn't a big difference between methyl or isopropyl alcohol for cleaning purposes...?

I had a similar problem on one of our TH remotes...

Was wierd, since the remote was pretty much stuffed anyway, I pulled apart the buttons themselves
(they are not sealed, if you bend back the metal tabs you can open them and see the little clicking disk spring inside)
The odd part was that one of them had this wierd blue grease-like stuff inside it, I have no idea where it came from, it wasn't in the others.

I cant remember if I wasn't able to clean out the gunk or if I made broke it with some other stupid mistake, but for some reason I ended up moving (resoldering) the gunk-free button from the boot release to replace it.

The buttons are not rare parts (pretty sure I have seen identically sized ones in a lot of electronics), any suitably sized tactile button should be able to replace it, just find one, then unsolder the old one and resolder the new one.

Also, while you've got the soldering iron out, chuck some solder on the battery holder, it can be tricky to get it into the more hidden away one, but if you apply heat to the top part that contacts the battery itself, the heat will travel thru to the solder point.

Errrm, yes, well - the rubber bits you push are "buttons" , the things on the circuit board are "switches".

The switches are connected - soldered - at 4 points, with two non electrical side soldered mounts IIRC.
Any replacement needs to be physically identical in the 4 electrical mounting points as well as height. Just saying "I've seen ones that look the same" just won't work here, they need to be TOTALLY identical. Haven't found any yet, except in another Mitsu remote, they can be transferred over from one remote to another, or a boot popper one can be swapped in for a lock or unlock one, as long as you have good close up eyesight and a soldering iron with a fine tip. The wagon doesn't make use of the boot popper anyway - just sets off the alarm if you hold it down too long. lol

The switch can be opened, but it is easy to ruin them by doing so. These switches have a tiny disc in them, as above, that relies on elasticity to alter its shape - relaxed it is concave, pressed down it is flat and makes contact. If the switch doesn't "click" it is probably because the disc is permanently flattened by years of use.

Anyone who can find a source of new, identical switches will have my full attention. lol

Also, while you've got the soldering iron out, chuck some solder on the battery holder, it can be tricky to get it into the more hidden away one, but if you apply heat to the top part that contacts the battery itself, the heat will travel thru to the solder point.

Care should be taken if doing that. The iron should really only ever be directly applied to the area that you are soldering (and not held there for a long time). By applying the iron to a part of the circuit in order to indirectly heat another part of the circuit can cause traces to lift due to prolonged/excessive heat.

Thanks for all the thoughts and details guys!


Errrm, yes, well - the rubber bits you push are "buttons" , the things on the circuit board are "switches".
I guess you got a point here :D

Now, unfortunately, I do not have a soldering unit here. I will only be here for another few months, so buying one just for that is definitely not an option ;)
If I get lucky, I might get to know somebody who's got the equipment here or find a shop where they let me use their equipment for a minute.
I asked at a little mobile phone repair place in Whitfords shopping center, but those guys where kinda confused when I said it's a remote, not a phone....

The button for the boot sets off the alarm when pressed for too long? Fun. I need to try that, I haven't actually tested the alarm yet.


By applying the iron to a part of the circuit in order to indirectly heat another part of the circuit can cause traces to lift due to prolonged/excessive heat.
Agreed. In this case you wouldn't be applying the heat to the circuit but to the pin coming down from the battery tray though. Still more or less a last resort solution if the tip is too big to get to the actual soldering point directly.

The iron should really only ever be directly applied to the area that you are soldering (and not held there for a long time). By applying the iron to a part of the circuit in order to indirectly heat another part of the circuit can cause traces to lift due to prolonged/excessive heat.

Yes, ordinarily that would be true, but the battery contacts are fairly substantial pieces of metal, not fine circuitry that will damage easily, the only thing you have to watch for is melting the holder plastic, but even then its not going to cause any substantial damage if you see it and stop.

From my experience rooting around with the remote, I was far more likely to cause heat damage attempting that holder pin another way.

As for the disk flattening, that was what I expected had happened to mine, but it turned out to be gunk inside the 'switch'

As for the switches, I was sure you could make something like one of these work:
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/3366959/

But the whole point is moot if he isn't willing to spend $13 on a soldering iron to do the job I guess.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TS1465

As for the switches, I was sure you could make something like one of these work:
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/tactile-switches/3366959/

But the whole point is moot if he isn't willing to spend $13 on a soldering iron to do the job I guess.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TS1465

Nope, even the smallest switch is too wide and too thick, I know as I bought some. lol

Soldering iron - got one of those, way too big for fine work. bought a cheap one from eBay, gas powered, works brilliantly. A lot less than $ 13. lol

Anyhow, I now have a working remote for my TJ and TL, and a spare in need of new switches. Looking around at wreckers when I go there for remotes to take switches from.

Less than 13$? That's nuts! In that case I will definitely consider buying one to fix the remote. Will try to clean the switches first though.

Thanks heaps guys.

Less than 13$? That's nuts! In that case I will definitely consider buying one to fix the remote. Will try to clean the switches first though.

Thanks heaps guys.

Try one of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Gas-Blow-Torch-Soldering-Solder-Iron-Gun-Butane-Cordless-Welding-Pen-Burner-/270941647787?pt=AU_B_I_Electrical_Test_Equipment&hash=item3f156173ab

Thanks mate, I will try that if cleaning fails.

I'd just buy a new remote. Yes, they're $90 odd bucks so you might see that as a bit steep but I had 3 remotes with 200k km's on them and the feel and effectiveness of a new remote outshines most repairs you could do.

That might be very true, but:
1. I will always fiddle with electronics and get the longest lifespan out of them as possible, I used to buy dead cell phones and fixed them up - just for fun :D
2. If you read the whole thread, you will see that I mentioned I won't be here for longer than a few months. So it's rather about a quick fix than a long lasting one.

Would any of the above methods work for buttons clogged in cigarette gunk?

The previous owner of my car was a heavy smoker (yuk - stank my car up bad back in the day) and killed one of my fobs/remotes because the buttons clogged and will not move.

Also does anyone know where that guide is on fixing the remote so that the contacts on the main oard are stronger? I remember seeing it with pictures a number of years ago.

In case you're not willing to DIY and want your remote fixed then this (http://myworld.ebay.com.au/geoffrey5382/?_trksid=p4340.l2559) (geoffrey5382) seller on eBay does.

He sells fixed remotes for $50 and can fix remotes. He provides $5 credit for your broken remote presumably to fix and sell.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Magna-Keyless-Remote-TH-TW-VERADA-KH-KW/150951918108?ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1&ih=005&category=33723&cmd=ViewItem

You can get aerosol cleaning solvent from Jaycar, which is supposedly safe to use:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NA1004
'For use on delicate electronic, electrical & precision mechanical assemblies (i.e. tuners, switches, plugs, sockets, relays, pots, etc).'

Also does anyone know where that guide is on fixing the remote so that the contacts on the main oard are stronger? I remember seeing it with pictures a number of years ago.
I guess you're referring to this article (http://martybugs.net/magna/remote.cgi)?

I ordered one of those cheap gas soldering units now. Will replace the two switches with the two boot switches which still seem to work, once it arrives.

Oh, btw I tried setting off the alarm with the boot switch earlier. It does work, which is a very very odd thing...does anybody know why this is happening?
Also, my alarm is just the horn, is that normal for a 2001 TJ Advance?

You can get aerosol cleaning solvent from Jaycar, which is supposedly safe to use:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NA1004
'For use on delicate electronic, electrical & precision mechanical assemblies (i.e. tuners, switches, plugs, sockets, relays, pots, etc).'

Cheers for this. Bought it from jaycar and did a good job cleaning off the cigarette/nicotine gunk off the remote.

Unfortunately it seems it's not that the buttons on the remote mainboard are dirty, rather the small metal diaphragm inside the button that is meant to pop up and down is stretched and is no longer moving at all just staying down flat.

Going to need two new buttons or actually have to pay the $100 for a new remote :/
Anyone know of buttons/switches that are a direct fit?

I guess you're referring to this article (http://martybugs.net/magna/remote.cgi)?

I ordered one of those cheap gas soldering units now. Will replace the two switches with the two boot switches which still seem to work, once it arrives.

Oh, btw I tried setting off the alarm with the boot switch earlier. It does work, which is a very very odd thing...does anybody know why this is happening?
Also, my alarm is just the horn, is that normal for a 2001 TJ Advance?

I think any of the buttons, if held down for more than two seconds, will set off "panic mode" and sound the horn. Also flashes indicators, I think. Alarm resets after 30 seconds.

Cute little soldering iron, those butane powered ones.

Boot switch is the least likely to be worn out by the disc inside the switch loosing its springiness and being permanently flattened, so swapping this to one of the other positions is a good idea. On the station wagon, that button does absolutely nothing. lol

Haven't tried to get proper sized switches, but I'd love to get my hands on some.

I think this thread was calling my name. I thought i had escaped having to open up and clean central locking remotes when i brought the TJ (had to do this number of times with the TS remote). Looks like i was wrong, the TJ remote is very unresponsive and have to press the button quite hard the get it to work. Nice to see mitsubishi still couldn't improve the design/quality control 6 years later :doubt:

I think this thread was calling my name. I thought i had escaped having to open up and clean central locking remotes when i brought the TJ (had to do this number of times with the TS remote). Looks like i was wrong, the TJ remote is very unresponsive and have to press the button quite hard the get it to work. Nice to see mitsubishi still couldn't improve the design/quality control 6 years later :doubt:

It's a disposable item, not essential for the normal safe functioning of the car. The switches wear out, simple. If they last for 10 years, they are doing well. Bit like the original radio, really. How many TJs still have the original CD player/radio? lol
Replacements for both the remote and radio are about $85 on eBay, so not to worry.

NOTE: The switches measure 5mm X 5mm and are about 3 mm high. Smallest I can get is 6mm X 6mm, and 8mm high. Anyone found any?
Might check Dick Smith tomorrow, you never know . . .

Good luck with dick smith. They have very little electronic bits and pieces like this anymore.

Jaycar is one of the last 'bricks and mortar' retailers who sell electronics to the public. Internet is probably going to be best if possible to find one.

I found some 4.5mm x 4.5mm ones on ebay. Seems they go from 4.5mm to 6mm. Not much in 5mm exact. Can't imagine 0.5mm being a big problem. Bend the bottom prongs a bit and she should be fine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/100-x-Tact-Switch-4-5x4-5mm-PUSH-Button-Through-Hole-/180627423440
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Tact-Switch-4-5-x-4-5mm-PCB-button-height-3-5mm-/380346970151?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588e723027
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-Tact-Switch-4-5-x-4-5mm-SMD-button-height-3-5mm-/150745611867?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2319237e5b

I've ordered a batch of them. We'll see if they're any good. Is going to take a few weeks obviously so I just need to be patient. Even if they are rubbish, at least i've got 50 odd spares to replace them with lol lol

Otherwise, mate of mine is a electrical engineer - he might have a few contacts (pun not intended!).

Been searching for Micro switches, didn't know 'tact' was an alternative search word.
the SMD type should work.

Tactile switches, means u get a click when u press it i think

Tactile switches, means u get a click when u press it i think

That's quite logical when you put it like that. lol
One of eBay weaknesses, if you don't know the right search words, you don't find anything. lol

I've had another look at the switches in the remote, and they are in fact the same as the ones in the third link above, 4.5 mm square. Solder point spacing and height are correct too. Bought some, $13 for 50 and 2 weeks or so delivery.

Thanks for the link.

I searched "5mm push button" and becuase of the .5 mil part it came up.

I ended up buying these ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170796105578

100 pieces for $3.30US. Not bad, not bad at all!

The bottom prongs at 1.8mm length might be slightly too long so I might need to give them a little bit of a trim. Still, for the odd $3 I can't complain.

I'll update this thread on how I go with them. Probably chuck up a small guide with pictures/video.

Well a month later, I finally received the buttons I bought off ebay. They were a perfect fit.

Soldering new buttons on, was fiddly and precarious work, but it was much easier to do with a angled flat blade tip on my soldering iron.
NB: If you've got a cheap soldering iron with a thick (non-removable) tip then this job would be almost impossible. The thick tip will likely burn the mainboard around the buttons and would be hard to pick off. Look out at Aldi for $35 "Tauras" gas soldering iron. It has removable head and it comes with 5 different tips.

New buttons are far superior to the factory ones. The factory ones feel soft and squishy, where these buttons have a nice hard, solid and tactile feel when you click (not tap/touch) it. Feels far more high quality and solid over standard setup.

As I've got 95 spare buttons, I will also replace my primary key fob with these buttons lol

Pictures (and maybe a video) to come!

Yes, got my switches and recycled one remote while the second had tracks lifting off the circuit board and was junked, kept the shell though. Now on the lookout for more remotes to recycle. U-pull-it North in Adelaide doesn't collect them off cars coming in, so it's a matter of looking in cars, glove boxes etc. for them.