Hey all.

I own a 98 TF magna with about 240.000 on the clock! Now my mate just got himself a boat, 16ft Fiberglass half cab with a 60hp 2 stroke on the back..

Not sure on the weight of trailer but looking to see if it would be advisable to tow this thing with my magna? Now it's not going to be all that far, Longest trip may be 2hrs max..

Keep in mind i would be keeping under 80 and leaving a large gap between me and any other cars.

You need to work out the weight of the trailer, there is a limit to what weight you can tow unbraked, as well as a maximum tongue weight.
Someone else can give the numbers.

One tip though, take spare engine oil with you, as it's going to burn a bit!

Check the load rating of your towbar (should be stamped or have a label on it), and ball load and compare against the combined weight of the boat and trailer to be safe.
Plus also heed the advice about the braked/unbraked towing as Max stated

The maximum weight a magna can tow is meant to be 1500kg with a braked trailer that has weight distribution hitch. From memory, you can tow up to 800kg's unbraked.

These cars are pretty capable towing vehicles. I read an article of someone towing a large caravan across Australia with a TL wagon and all they did was replace the transmission cooler.

If you were keen to tow often, I would recommend fitting up a transmission cooler and new stronger springs at the back. Don't forget a heavy duty towbar as well because the standard towbar is rated to 1200kg's. If you're not going to replace the towbar, at a minimum, replace the rusty bolts you have now to brand new high-tensile steel ones.

Otherwise, if the weight of the boat & trailer doesn't exceed 1 tonne, then I'd dare say you should be fine with a standard setup. Be sure to check your rotors and brakes, do a regular service and if, necessary, bleed your lines with new brake fluid and/or machine/replace the rotors.

edit: and as MadMax says add a bottle of oil to the car's mechanical supply as yes, you will chew through a bit more oil than normal.

Thanks for the advice people! I think the Boat and trailer is under 750kgs as vic roads never wanted to inspect it! It had no vin number but an old rego plate.. So i take it they bought the old details of trailer and boat up and seen that it was under 750! Because they do state on the web page if it was over 750 i would have had to take it in..

Was a TF not a TL and I prepped that car.

Car had done over 200k and then did 26000k towing a camper trailer and a family of 5 in the car

Trans cooler isa must, a few other things can be done

I have many times towed 1500kg with my old wagon

We (dad) used to tow our old 20ft fibreglass half cabin on a mechanically braked trailer with our TH magna occasionally, only once did it slightly cause us to run up the back of someone while trying to stop at a roundabout... Watch your stopping distance...

Other than that, on short trips it was no problem at all, FWD is surprisingly good at the boat ramp compared to RWD since the wheels are away from the slippery ground.

As above - braking distance needs watching!
All of my towing has been done with a 6 X 4 trailer, probably no more than 350 Kg loaded. Hardly know it's there in normal driving acceleration wise, but braking, definitely needs a heavier push on the brake pedal and a longer stopping distance . . . . hate to have a heavy load behind me on a dirt or gravel road and having the ABS kick in while trying to stop in a hurry . . . consider yourself warned!

I recommend fitting some 380 front brakes if you're towing often. There was a very noticeable difference between the stock brakes and the 380 brakes when I was towing a light 6x4 with a couple of dirt bikes on it. Stock brakes in good working order, with good pads, will do the job but make sure you leave plenty of room ahead of you anyway (as you stated).

If you've got a trailer with brakes on it then you dont really need to upgrade the standard brakes, just be a little more vigilent and careful.

I'd recommend rather spending the money on a transmission cooler instead. If you can do both, then do so but Id put the transmission cooler higher on the list than upgraded brakes as a bit more attention and foresight can overcome the problem of less braking. New pads, fluids, and machined/replaced standard rotors will do you fine.