Hi all, I just refitted a new clutch (V6), at first, the splines didn't want to line up with the gear box. This after pulling the whole transmission out again, turned out to be burrs from factory machining.

The main problem, clutch is now sticky, and engine won't turn over (starter motor engaging, but can't turn).

Could this be due to me placing packing washers under the ball pivot stud for the clutch release lever?
(I'm just guessing that it could be pushing the thrust bearings too far along the shaft - sticky clutch, and maybe pressing the clutch plate against something - preventing motor turning over).

Any comments would be appreciated.

(White Magna TR 3.0 V6 manual wagon)

So I just eased the bell housing without taking the car to bits, removed the packing washers from under the ball pivot stud. Now the car starts, but can't engage / dis-engage the clutch.
Frigate! Well, looks like I'll have to remove the housing again and try with various size packing washers until I get it right.

Had to replace starter motor, it burnt out.

I would pull the whole clutch back off and have a look along the bellhousing for anything that might be preventing the clutch from disengaging. Without the clutch in there, are you getting any movement from within?

Have you made sure you have re-engaged clutch fork..?

SuFz :ninja:

Second gen do not have a pull clutch

You need to make sure that you have the correct spacing on the pivot ball, the correct toe play on the pedal and then go from there

Second gen do not have a pull clutch

You need to make sure that you have the correct spacing on the pivot ball, the correct toe play on the pedal and then go from there

I guess that'll teach me to read the thread title properly..

SuFz :ninja:

I did a 2.6L TS clutch replacement years ago, needed 2 washers 2 mm thick under the ball to bring it all back. At 200,000 km.
3.0L clutch should be the same, I assume.
There is a writeup about it to show you how to judge if you have enough or too much packing under the ball pivot.

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Except I can't find it now.

Basically, when the gearbox is on, you want the lever poking out through the window to be near the edge of the window nearest the engine without hitting the end.
When you take up play in the lever by hand, it should be in about the middle of the window.
With the clutch pedal pushed fully down, the lever should be near the edge of the window furthest from the engine, without hitting it.

Stupid system really, over the years wear on the ball pivot and socket and clutch plate wear cancel each other out, put a new clutch in and it all goes wrong. Third gen has a better setup.

this may be a dumb question . is the clutch plate in the right way

this may be a dumb question . is the clutch plate in the right way

Good point, long end of the centre should be . . . . .out towards the flywheel.

most clutch plate's have it on them now. this side to flywheel
and yes i have put one in the wrong way

most clutch plate's have it on them now. this side to flywheel
and yes i have put one in the wrong way

This helps . . .

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/trclutch.jpg