hello, Happy New years to you all 2 days to go.....And of corse my window reg pooped itself.. and of corse its during the christmas when everywhere is on holidayz....

Anyways i can get the window reg with motor on the 2nd of Jan 2013....ive now taken it out and have a club lock and cable ties holding the window up in place......(it aint moving anywhere)....


IS there any ADVICE or TIPS when installing the new window regulator???


Is it easy?? is it hard?? can someone give me a step by step of the install of the reglator Rear drivers side...


oh and this regulator the cable tangled it self and went the other way....after trying to fix it....the cable turned out to be stretched...so yeh i have to wait till now window reg and motor.....


can you please help me...thanks

Its pretty easy. The door card needs come off. Remove some of the waterproof plastic. Two (Edit Three ) bolts hold on the controller. 4 for the winder mech. And two securing the window to the mechanism. .. Allow about 30 mins. . No special tools. Just a Phillips driver and a socket set .The new ones are meant to be improved units. .Not too expensive either. .

Given how common this issue is - it would be great if someone who knows what they are doing posted a step by step photo guide to replacing these regulators. I am sure it would be appreciated!

Yep, agreed, a how to would be awesome.

Well, I've done both of mine now, but I look to helping someone in Toowoombah soonish, I might do a walkthrough If I get the opportunity.....

I'm glad it's a common issue because mine did it last night as well. It's propped up temporarily. But I'll need a replacement, where abouts can I get one from?

But if you need a temporary way to keep the window up.

http://i.imgur.com/3TQKg.jpg

Mal (mitsfix) sells them for $125 & $15 shipping, see here:

Mitsubishi 380 RHR Window Regulator BRAND NEW (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-380-RHR-Window-Regulator-BRAND-NEW-/190640002976?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c630797a0)

I could pretty much do a walk through with that Picture....

I could pretty much do a walk through with that Picture....

That would be great, and are the fronts and rears the same?

Well, I've done both of mine now, but I look to helping someone in Toowoombah soonish, I might do a walkthrough If I get the opportunity.....

This would be even better if you could. :facejump:

I've got the little white plastic bit thats snapped, I doubt I'll need a whole unit to fit in there.

Righto, just to help you out, I'll do a quick write up, til I get to do one again. I'm running off my memory from about 4 weeks so bare with me...


Its Very handy for a mate to be on hand to help hold the glass at times.... You have been warned..
Always do electrical work, with the ignition keys on the floor (Not in the Ignition) and check all wires are secure before testing...

Youll need to find a way to secure the glass before you start removing the mech, and after you've removed the card, I used a rubber wedge, but Tape, Pegs, or a friend will do...


Its pretty easy. The door card needs to come off. This includes the screw in the door pull, and the door handle surround, remove that screw too, it has two clips top and bottom at the squarer end...
Keep in mind the window winder plug needs to be disconnected, and is a short lead, so go easy when you remove the card completely a bit later.
Removing the card - starting from the bottom, pull the door card away from the door shell, unpopping the clips as you go. Once all the clips are loose, lift the card up gently to ease it out of the inner window seal, remove the electrical connector for the window switch...

By now you should have the replacement winder mech, and it should look slightly different to the one you will pull out, that comes out by the three bolts on the control box, and Three bolts for the Track..
Remove some of the waterproof plastic. Its easy to do when warm, as not to tear the white/clear plastic, you can heat the black butyl substance with a hairdryer, just a bit.. I did it on a 35 degree day.. You need to access to the middle of the door... A plastic spatula might help?

You can undo the three bolts (RED) and the electric control box thing will come loose, and there is a locating pin, leave bolt in a few threads so it doesnt swing away....
Then the Three bolts (Yellow) that hold the track in place, loosen one top one, leave it there and remove the rest, it will hold up the window....
(Note - I cant see the last bolt in the picture, but its there somewhere) Bwahaha, coz there is just three...

Now there is an horizontal arm on the track that support the glass, its secured with another two bolts.
You'll have take care here to get access to the bolts, removing them as well, and not dropping the window, a friend really helps here....
Once the glass is free from the mech, remove the finger loose bolts from the mech, and lower it gently in the door, turn you attention to the box with three bolts, support it, remove the last loosened bolt, and unplug the box from the loom, ( this is where my memory leaves me, but it is really that simple...)
Remove the old unit, slide in the new one, connect the electrics in the door to the box, use the locating pin for the position and whip a couple of bolts in with your fingers... do the same for the track, then attach the window to the horizontal bar.. Put the bolts almost all the way in...Finger tight.

Tighten the 3 for the box, then the 4 for the track....
Before you tighten the two window bolts, (they are finger tight, right) connect up the window switch and test, raise it up and down and the window will be in the right place. You can now tighten the last two bolts on the horizantal glass holder...
Its probably a good idea to loosen the four (red) bolts just a touch and move the window up and down, just align the track correctly, tighten when then the action is smooth...

When Testing, the window switch needs to be reconnected, or it will raise or lower at all.

Check all bolts are tight enough...
Replace waterproofing...
I think Its easy to replace the door card with the window down, easing in the dust seal first, ensuring it catches on the Gal bracket, (GB) ensure the window switch plug is connected and press the card against the door, while lining up the clips... Replace the screw in the door pull, refit screw, replace the handle surround...Have beer..

Allow about 30 mins. . No special tools. Just a Phillips driver and a socket set ..

Tips,
The black stuff is messy, stick to flesh well..
Dont over tighten, its a window mech, not a chassis bolt...Dont overtighten the handle surround, it will crack early...
This for a rear, the front will be similar, its just harder to refit the front door card....So it doesnt rattle...



Disclaimer....You **** it, you fix it.... If you aint sure - Check! All care, No responsibility....
Note. there is only one bolt for the bottom of the main track....
http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z467/Shootmarty/3TQKg.jpg

This is a left rear door Reg.. But you get the idea...
http://i1191.photobucket.com/albums/z467/Shootmarty/20130102_152812.jpg

Good write up, thanks for that!

With the plastic thats been broken on mine, is there any possible way it can be bonded back together? Or do you guys think the next time the car heats up it's likely to just fall apart again? Theres nothing wrong with my motor as I can hear it working.

Or can I order a replacement part for it? (Might give the local mitsubishi dealer a call or something).

Its quite normal for the motor to run, but the winder still faults, may go up, not down or vice versa...

I picked up a part from a Mits dealer today, Hence the added photo....
They told me straight up $400.00, but that was fitted ... Mal sells them for $125.00 New.....

So have a crack yourself, save some coin....

Wow $400 fitted, I do these for $170 fitted for the rears, the dealer is charging by the sounds of it 3 hours labour for 30 mins work

Nope, thats 2 Hours labour.. at Zupps... @ $165.00 per hour....Thats what I was qouted to change a headunit to a GT one when my 380 was in warranty.. Except they wanted to bill me 4 hours for that job.....

Thank you Shoot for posting the instructions! I changed my regulator today and I am not a mechanically minded so the instructions really helped. Going slowly it took me only 30 minutes. All up $105 for a rear new regulator fixed! Now I have the confidence that if this happens again I can fix it myself.

Back to the OP


Must be something about Xmas - NY close down period


Mine went yesterday - of course I am in Noosa /Brisbane for Xmas and a long way from Sydney. Now to find a dealer open.............


(And lucky I followed someone else's advice and had some zip ties in the boot :))

Done and dusted , local Ipswich dealer open and part in stock :)