Hi Guys,

We are so close to a vehicle now that I can just about taste it. The RACV will do an inspection for me this week; since the vehicle is 4 hours (each way) from here.

I have 2 questions, since we've never yet owned the V6 (only 2.6's):

a) Can you get at the oil filter without needing ramps or a pit? (With the lack of room under the bonnet I'm guessing - not).

b) When doing a coolant flush, is there just one air bleed point - and what is/are the location/s?

Cheers

Oil filter - jack up driver wheel, axle stand, remove wheel, crawl under. Or use ramps. Filter removal tool from the 2.6L is too big, won't work. I've tried different tools, strap type seems to work best.

No air bleed on the cooling system.

If your car isn't lowered and you are tiny you may be able to get the filter but I doubt it. I personally jack up the front of the car with the tow hook, put a jackstand under the cross member and bam filter was done from there takes all of a minute. I just recently removed one from a brand new motor so the filter had been on there for many many years and it was stubborn so for that one I removed the passenger side wheel, the plastic cover infront of the balancer and then the filter was right in front of me so I could pry it off.

If you have a trolley jack, insert it under the subframe running front towards the rear of the car. Jack it up, insert a chassis stand under the F Right jacking point (under the Driver's door hinge) and you can access the filter from the front Right side. The drain plug is at the rear. The filter is small, but a strap tool will easily get it.

Or get a set of ramps! A pair will run you a similar price to a cheap jack and a pair of stands. Super easy and then you get heaps of room to move.
My Magna is lowered and, with a bit of creativity, I can still drive it up on them no problem.

I do my oil changes without raising the car. But first time I done it I used ramps because I didn't know where things were. To change coolant you need to put the front end up to get the cylinder block drain plugs out.

Or get a set of ramps! A pair will run you a similar price to a cheap jack and a pair of stands. Super easy and then you get heaps of room to move.

Thanks ammerty - I should really get a set; they will be useful for all sorts of work downunder! On other vehicles I've owned you could access the underneath without any drama's.

With access - I would usually choose to buy a really good quality synthetic oil and Ryco filter - I don't see the point in paying a mechanic to do such a simple task. He can then focus on the other tasks in the Service book.

Cheers

Steve

To change coolant you need to put the front end up to get the cylinder block drain plugs out.

OK then - so the old way of locating a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator does not apply here? Where are the block drain plugs at? AND - since there's no air-bleed point, I assume you refill then watch the level with the engine running and top-up as required?

Cheers

Steve

Thanks ammerty - I should really get a set; they will be useful for all sorts of work downunder! On other vehicles I've owned you could access the underneath without any drama's.

With access - I would usually choose to buy a really good quality synthetic oil and Ryco filter - I don't see the point in paying a mechanic to do such a simple task. He can then focus on the other tasks in the Service book.

Cheers

Steve

I think the general consensus on here is use Penrite HPR10 (which I also use, and am really happy with). I use ACDelco oil filters (I change mine every 10,000km or three months approximately. Strangely enough, the only filter I don't buy genuine), many will suggest to to genuine, but its a matter of preference really. If you've been happy with Ryco in your past vehicles, then continue buying them :)


OK then - so the old way of locating a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator does not apply here? Where are the block drain plugs at? AND - since there's no air-bleed point, I assume you refill then watch the level with the engine running and top-up as required?

Cheers

Steve

I use the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Drain it, refill, run for 20 mins, drain again and fill (thats my method anyway, should get rid of most of the old coolant). And yep, keep an eye on it and top up as needed. I don't know what others use, but I use genuine coolant.

I think the general consensus on here is use Penrite HPR10 (which I also use, and am really happy with).

Hi ammerty,

I once used Mobil 1 exclusively in a 16 valve EFI Pulsar, based on the racing background (no - not racey type, just regular driver) and some of the reports they had sent me after I challenged a claim or two they made (on TV I think).

But the price of Mobil 1 just kept on climbing and climbing. I then noticed Nulon had several pure synthetic and semi-synthetic oils and were making claims of engines running significantly cooler (with some graphs) on their products.

That Pulsar is still my long distance daily drive, with just over 200,000 K's on the clock and no oil burning!

What type of oil is HPR 10 - and why the recommendations for that oil in particular?

Cheers

Steve

HPR 10 is a 10w50 full synthetic oil (where most are 10w40), and at about $50 (less if you are a member of a auto club (NRMA, RACQ, RACV, etc and buy at Repco) its pretty cheap when compared to those offered by Mobil and Castrol. Mine has 210,000km and doesn't smoke or burn oil.

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_brand=1&id_products=2

Also, Penrite is Australian owned and operated, I believe. Not really relevant to the quality of what you're putting into your car, but nice to know.

HPR10/HPR15 is a fully synthetic oil. High quality stuff and the reviews from owners who use it are always positive.

Most of the time everyone here on AMC is recommended to use it and I'm yet to hear a complaint. I know plenty of other non-magna owners who are also very impressed.

I've been using it for over 50,000km's. When I was doing 15,000km services (as per factory service manual), the oil would always come out a really nice light colour and it wasn't very thick either. Can't say the same for the Castrol crap I first had to flush out of the engine when I bought the car.

Thanks Guys,

Is there any significance to Penrite advising HPR 5W-40 for 3.0 & 3.5 Litre engines on their page: http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ or are you guys just going up a bit in weight for the extra protection at temperature?

Steve

Risking a flame from Mal, but I reckon 5W-40 is for younger 6G72 or 6G74 motors, but if yours has done 150,000k plus then 10W-50 ("extra ten") would be the better bet.
10W-50 is what Penrite recommends for the 6G75, so it seems a bit odd that they recommend 5W-40 for the older 6G72/4.
I've been using the 10W-50 for some time now in my 380 and it does just a good a job as Mobil 1 for a lot less $.

Risking a flame from Mal, but I reckon 5W-40 is for younger 6G72 or 6G74 motors, but if yours has done 150,000k plus then 10W-50 ("extra ten") would be the better bet.
10W-50 is what Penrite recommends for the 6G75, so it seems a bit odd that they recommend 5W-40 for the older 6G72/4.
I've been using the 10W-50 for some time now in my 380 and it does just a good a job as Mobil 1 for a lot less $.

I agree. 10w is needed for higher mileage engines. I was using 5w40 when I first purchased the car at 180,000km and it was using oil (not a lot, but nonetheless)

=ammerty;1549405
I use the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Drain it, refill, run for 20 mins, drain again and fill (thats my method anyway, should get rid of most of the old coolant). And yep, keep an eye on it and top up as needed. I don't know what others use, but I use genuine coolant.

If you get the coolent "changed" at a Mitsubishi dealer all they do is drain out 5 litres from the radiator drain plug then top it up. So they are only changing half the coolent. They reckon doing the every 2 years is enough to keep the coolent ok. I'm not going back again for another service from them.

To do the job properly you need to remove the plugs to let out any sediment that is trapped in there as this won't flush out becuase it is too heavy.

Hi Guys,

We are so close to a vehicle now that I can just about taste it. The RACV will do an inspection for me this week; since the vehicle is 4 hours (each way) from here.

Cheers

I am literally fuming at the minute!:eeek:

I had asked the guy in Melbourne if he would hold the car at an agreed price until Thursday when the RACV were booked to inspect. He agreed to this - I booked the RACV.

Moments ago - he called to tell me that he had sold the car to someone else (for higher $$$). Obviously he has the right to do that - but we DID have an agreement!

Now I'm back to where I started - and there are simply NOT that many good quality wagons around - I know because I've searched pretty well the entire East coast! Aaargh!

Steve

Ya can buy mine ...... 400,000 kms, a/c, LPG, power windows, a few dings here and there.
I just changed the coolant so one less job for you, but it could do with an oil change just to keep you interested.








*this is a joke reply btw*

..there are simply NOT that many good quality wagons around - I know because I've searched pretty well the entire East coast! Aaargh!

Steve

Hop a cheap flight to Brisbane or Sydney and drive back..

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-14001478?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=51&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13951016?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=54&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13994959?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=17&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2000-13328252?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=41&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2003-13885349?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=44&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2004-13753169?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=64&page=6&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-verada-2003-13769178?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964081%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

Hop a cheap flight to Brisbane or Sydney and drive back..

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-14001478?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=51&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13951016?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=54&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13994959?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=17&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2000-13328252?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=41&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2003-13885349?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=44&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2004-13753169?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=64&page=6&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-verada-2003-13769178?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964081%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

Oooooooohhh I likey the sportswagon.....
2nd option the Rada wagon....

PS. Note that the 2000 TH is actually a 2003 TL.... :-)

Hop a cheap flight to Brisbane or Sydney and drive back..

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-14001478?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=51&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13951016?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=54&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13994959?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=17&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2000-13328252?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=41&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2003-13885349?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=44&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2004-13753169?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=64&page=6&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-verada-2003-13769178?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964081%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

Thanks ammerty.

Chances are that I've seen those and have considered the journey thingo. A couple of things held me back though; i.e. getting there and finding that you did not like the vehicle and then having to start-over - and the whole Victorian Roadworthy Inspection thing - which can cost upwards of $700 - $1000 even more I'm told.

I will take another look though, thanks

All registered vehicles in QLD have to pass a roadworthy prior to sale. These are current for 60 days/2000km (private sale) or 3 months/1000km (dealer sale) only, so that said, if a vehicle purchased in QLD with a legit roadworthy should pass a roadworthy inspection in VIC unless something untoward occurs/gets damaged in transit between states.

We dont have yearly inspections, just roadworthies when the car changes hands.

All registered vehicles in QLD have to pass a roadworthy prior to sale. These are current for 60 days/2000km (private sale) or 3 months/1000km (dealer sale) only, so that said, if a vehicle purchased in QLD with a legit roadworthy should pass a roadworthy inspection in VIC unless something untoward occurs/gets damaged in transit between states.

We dont have yearly inspections, just roadworthies when the car changes hands.

Thanks amm!

We don't have yearly's either - thank goodness! Just the change of ownership that you guys appear to have. I wonder if there's any collaboration between the 2 states?

That said though - I would need to find a vehicle that had had one done - or looked so perfect that you'd risk just buying it outright and making the big journey back home - and then have the RWC done back here.

Steve

Ya can buy mine ...... 400,000 kms, a/c, LPG, power windows, a few dings here and there.
I just changed the coolant so one less job for you, but it could do with an oil change just to keep you interested.


*this is a joke reply btw*

:happy:

Thanks prowler.

Now I'm likely to get flamed - but was lookin' for just a tad under 400,000 k! :eek2:

Steve

Hop a cheap flight to Brisbane or Sydney and drive back..

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-14001478?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=51&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13951016?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=54&page=5&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2002-13994959?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=17&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2000-13328252?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=41&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mitsubishi-magna-2003-13885349?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=44&page=4&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-magna-2004-13753169?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=64&page=6&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964374%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mitsubishi-verada-2003-13769178?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1216%201246%201252%201247%201282%204294964597% 204294964081%204294680280&num=15&silo=Stock&sort=default

There were two really sexy lookin' wagons in there - tempting I must say! But when you see what our 1/2 dozen hounds can do to a car; it'd be a total waste of top machines! :happy:

We need a reliable, vehicle that'll haul my wife and the hounds around (tow an occasional trailer or van) for the next 10 years - 'tis all!

Steve

Thanks amm!

We don't have yearly's either - thank goodness! Just the change of ownership that you guys appear to have. I wonder if there's any collaboration between the 2 states?

That said though - I would need to find a vehicle that had had one done - or looked so perfect that you'd risk just buying it outright and making the big journey back home - and then have the RWC done back here.

Steve

No collaboration between the states, but all the QLD ones I listed have roadworthy certificates. Might be worth considering if your desire to have a tidy Magna wagon goes beyond state boundaries.

No collaboration between the states, but all the QLD ones I listed have roadworthy certificates. Might be worth considering if your desire to have a tidy Magna wagon goes beyond state boundaries.

Just spoke with the owner of the first one. REALLY good price, RWC done, Timing belt done, most of the Service history and receipts - and only 10 mins from Brisbane airport!

Steve

Looks tidy, good kms, timing belt done, good price, cargo barrier (you mentioned dogs) - good luck!

Just spoke with the owner of the first one. REALLY good price, RWC done, Timing belt done, most of the Service history and receipts - and only 10 mins from Brisbane airport!

Steve

Did they mention what the cosmetic touch-ups were that needed to be done?

Did they mention what the cosmetic touch-ups were that needed to be done?

Mostly because it has a surface scratch on the passenger rear door, not too bad she says - will send me a pic tomorrow. The CD player is not working either - so nothing major.

Not sure that I'm willing to make the 22 hour Whereis.com journey though! :nuts:

Steve

Mostly because it has a surface scratch on the passenger rear door, not too bad she says - will send me a pic tomorrow. The CD player is not working either - so nothing major.

Not sure that I'm willing to make the 22 hour Whereis.com journey though! :nuts:

Steve

$4500 for an 100k wagon, I'd make the trip..
Those issues could be bargaining chips

$4500 for an 100k wagon, I'd make the trip.. Those issues could be bargaining chips

Thanks Amm - look I probably should go; but I have one good looking TL (here in Vic) to check out - and I must say that those "bug eyes" which I originally hated have really grown on me!

Cheers

Steve

Where are the block drain plugs at?

Hi Guys,

Got some good ramps last weekend; so I'm ready to flush the cooling and lubrication systems this weekend. Just where ARE those block draining plugs situated at?

Cheers

Steve

They are small bolts along the bottom of the engine. If you are going to start to DIY things, perhaps you should invest in a workshop manual. I got mine for around $40 at supercheap.

If you are going to start to DIY things, perhaps you should invest in a workshop manual. I got mine for around $40 at supercheap.

Aaah yes - but that's $40 I could spend on Synthetic Oil or Synthetic ATF or towards tyres etc - all expenses the new TJ is throwin' our way at present! :noway:

There's a freebie download floatin' around on here - and that sounds just great to me!

Steve

Indeed. I have a legit copy, but that became a mess so I just printed off a set. Very, very good tool to have.

Indeed. I have a legit copy, but that became a mess so I just printed off a set. Very, very good tool to have.

As do I, handy to have, but 600-odd pages over two folders and 5-6kg it proves somewhat cumbersome, I normally just take my laptop with me to the car.

I prefer the book over the mitsubishi service manual.

It can be hard and time consuming to navigate the computer manual plus my fingers are usually filthy and get the computer dirty. Plus the service manual is often packed with jargon and not very helpful with instructions. Aftermarket books are made to be helpful and have better instructions for diy backyard 'mechanics'.

Steve there should be plenty of info in the archivies on where the plugs are and how to flush the fluids are.

I know the radiator has two white drain valves underneath but I usually just pop off the hose.
Transmission will have three bolts underneath, one of them is a drain valve. Google for a autocar article on how to replace transmission fluid because they did it on a 97 rada.

Steve there should be plenty of info in the archivies on where the plugs are and how to flush the fluids are.

I know the radiator has two white drain valves underneath but I usually just pop off the hose.
Transmission will have three bolts underneath, one of them is a drain valve. Google for a autocar article on how to replace transmission fluid because they did it on a 97 rada.

In the past I too have just popped the bottom hose - to my mind the "whoosh" of all that fluid gushing at once will likely assist in getting more gunk out too!

I'll use the almighty Google on the tranny flush - gotta be something good there. Just what did we do before Search Engines?? :D

Steve

OK - got the engine oil changed today, no big deal there; obviously :mits: made them to be got-at readily - otherwise their cars wouldn't have lasted too long! :woot:

BUT the coolant flush - that's a totally different story!

I added the flush additive, ran the engine for the required 20 mins and allowed it to cool.
Then I had to spend another 15-20 mins to work out how to get the lower plastic skirt loosened enough, so that I could get at the radiator bottom hose.
Then I battled the dopey squeeze-together type hose clamp to get the hose to slide back; then carefully - trying not to get a face full of flush solution pull the hose back off!


All that to only get 3 litres of the solution out! Sincerely - after I am confident that I have diluted that gunk enough that I can safely replace the demin water and coolant concentrate - I reckon I'll stick with Natrad or someone else who specialise in cooling systems!

Whatever happened to cars where you could do the really basic type things - and get at stuff! :eeek: