Hi,
I need to change my starter motor. I've got the 2 mounting bolts off and the electricals disconnected. The starter motor is completely loose but I can't withdraw it sufficiently to get it out. It's being obstructed by other parts. I'm working from above and can't see what's in the way
Can anyone advise if is possible to get it out without removing anything else?
It's a 92 TR 2.6L auto.
Thanks in advance.

95 TS Manual. Starter motor hits the inlet manifold stay when you try to withdraw it. I had to remove the bottom bolt of the manifold stay, remove one of the top bolts with a flexible drive extension, and ONLY loosen the second, then swung the stay out of the way.
Couldn't get that top bolt back in, so that car is missing one bolt to this day. (wherever it is now) lol

Thanks for the reply. I will press on with the task.

Did you have any luck removing the starter motor? In my experience you only have to remove the air intake, not the intake manifold, it takes a LOT of wiggling but you can remove it without removing the intake.
If you have no luck, you'll need to first disconnect your fuel rail - remove, disconnect wiring harness, there are 3 allen key bolts holding the intake manifold other than the actual studs. This will allow you to remove the entire intake manifold. Remember you'll have to disconnect the throttle cable as well.

Hi, I have to replace the starter on my son's girlfriend's TS 4-cyl. I had a quick look and couldn't even see the damn starter clearly! I told her I'd have to come back next weekend as it looked like a much bigger job than I first thought.

My question is, is it going to be quicker and easier to remove the intake manifold and get to it that way, or go from underneath? It looked like I might have to remove the rear engine mount to access the starter from underneath.

Cheers.

Hi, I have to replace the starter on my son's girlfriend's TS 4-cyl. I had a quick look and couldn't even see the damn starter clearly! I told her I'd have to come back next weekend as it looked like a much bigger job than I first thought.

My question is, is it going to be quicker and easier to remove the intake manifold and get to it that way, or go from underneath? It looked like I might have to remove the rear engine mount to access the starter from underneath.

Cheers.

OK, if you're having major difficulty removing the starter with the intake manifold still attached, you can remove it. First obviously you need to d/c the intake (Which contains the MAF sensor), to remove the intake it's rather easy, first undo all 8 stud nuts, then there are 3 keeper bolts which are allen key bolts, remove those. Make sure all of the electrical connections are removed and set aside, you can then push back and remove the intake. The starter will with the two bolts (That's all that holds it there) be removable.

If you need help via phone please pm me, i'd be really happy to help in any way I can, I have a spare starter also IF someone needs it.

CHEERS

my car just recently broke down and wont start. i checked the battery with a meter and its running 12.5 volts, but when i turn the key it just makes a click sound, and the engine wont turn over. is this a starter motor problem? i dont think it is though be cause why would the car break down because the starter motor is broken? does anybody know what the problem here could be?

my car just recently broke down and wont start. i checked the battery with a meter and its running 12.5 volts, but when i turn the key it just makes a click sound, and the engine wont turn over. is this a starter motor problem? i dont think it is though be cause why would the car break down because the starter motor is broken? does anybody know what the problem here could be?
i would check if your getting power to the starter .most common problem with the 4cly tr is dizzy or ecu

i would check if your getting power to the starter .most common problem with the 4cly tr is dizzy or ecu

When you say check if you're getting power to the starter, i'm gathering you mean to check first the starter relay, ensuring you actually have power @ the relay, you can try a little trick to see if the relay is cactus, use a small piece of wire with two male pins crimped onto the ends, place into no.s 30 (Constant power) & 87 (accessory), as soon as you do this, the starter SHOULD kick in. If it starts, well your relay is dead. If nothing happens, and your multimeter shows 12.5volts-ish, well either somewhere between there and the starter there's an issue, or the starter itself is just dead tired.

Check next that the earth on the starter is OK, resistance should be bugger all, like 3-6ohms. Lastly, if you're very sure the wiring is good, you CAN bench test the starter, by removing it as previously described how to. And just place an earth wire to a battery on the starter, then carefully while you have the starter in a vice or someone with two strong hands holding it, hit the positive and see if it will actually fire the solenoid and motor turn.

there is no need to remove the intake manifold when changing the starter.( i don't believe you can with it still in the car)
the brace from the plemun to the block that get in the way is only three bolts to remove 1/ 14mm and 2/ 12mm bolts. undo the 14mm and remove 1 12mm bolt and loosing the other so you can swing the brace out of the way. i.ve done this to many time,s

there is no need to remove the intake manifold when changing the starter.( i don't believe you can with it still in the car)
the brace from the plemun to the block that get in the way is only three bolts to remove 1/ 14mm and 2/ 12mm bolts. undo the 14mm and remove 1 12mm bolt and loosing the other so you can swing the brace out of the way. i.ve done this to many time,s

That's how I do it too. It's that brace that gets in the way, not the inlet manifold.

That's how I do it too. It's that brace that gets in the way, not the inlet manifold.

I still have no idea how I managed it, but I didn't even have to undo those bolts to remove the starter. Just removed the intake piping to give me a good view of what I was doing.

Thread digging, but my questions are extremely relevant....

My starter has finally died. Only problems ive ever had with the car has been the 12v feed to the starter itself which was fixed with a band aid solution of a wire straight to the battery when the ignition failed.

Now that the 12v direct feed is not working either, im trying to pull the starter out, and the damn inlet manifold brace is getting in the way as others have mentioned. Ive either got huge hands, or im doing something wrong as I can only get two fingers on that bottom bolt of the brace to try swing it out the way.

Is there and easy way to do this? Ive removed the two bolts holding the starter to the car, as I couldnt see the wiring round the back to disconnect them. Plan was to slide it round then remove wiring then?

Installing was going to be a reverse, of putting it in the engine bay, connecting wires then fixing to car....or do I take wires off first?

Last questions....

Is it easier from the top or below the car?

What starter motor do I need? I think there are two kinds for the TS magna....the bosch one and a mitsi one?

Cheers.

Brand doesn't matter, but whether it is off a manual or auto does.

The brace is attached at the bottom to the intermediate drive shaft shaft bearing carrier, can only be gotten to from underneath.
Remove one of the top brace bolts, using a flexible extension, and just loosen the other. Swing the brace out of the way. Move the starter back, lift and pull out so you can disconnect the wiring.
Refitting a working starter is a reversal, but you will find putting back the second bolt in the intake manifold impossible with a flexible extension, unless you have tiny hands and skinny fingers it's impossible to get the bolt started.

Good luck with it.

I replaced mine about 6 months ago and did it from both above and below the car without removing anything,from below you are purely doing the bolts up by feel.

Just remember if you buy a second hand one from the wreckers or online, always check and if needed replace the brushes, also check the plastic planetary gear for cracks or broken teeth and it also doesn't hurt to clean up the commutator with some sand paper.

Otherwise you might end up having to do it all over again in a few months time. This isn't the sort of job you want to be doing if you can avoid it!

Brand doesn't matter, but whether it is off a manual or auto does.


Really? Found new ones on eBay, and emailed the seller as to what his fit. He replied that they fit both auto and manual??


I replaced mine about 6 months ago and did it from both above and below the car without removing anything,from below you are purely doing the bolts up by feel.

Just remember if you buy a second hand one from the wreckers or online, always check and if needed replace the brushes, also check the plastic planetary gear for cracks or broken teeth and it also doesn't hurt to clean up the commutator with some sand paper.

Otherwise you might end up having to do it all over again in a few months time. This isn't the sort of job you want to be doing if you can avoid it!

Will be replacing it with new or rebuilt one if i can find one. All cars of this age now have shagged items, so replacing it with a wrecker one is asking for trouble. As you said I only want to do it once, and the car has been damn reliable apart from electrical issues which have been easy to fix until now.

The old starter is unbolted and hanging there....just cant get it up and over that support bracket. :roflwtf:

Really? Found new ones on eBay, and emailed the seller as to what his fit. He replied that they fit both auto and manual??


Being a "Seller" doesn't make him an expert!
Been covered before. I think the 2 starters are different in the throwout reach. But do a search.

Being a "Seller" doesn't make him an expert!
Been covered before. I think the 2 starters are different in the throwout reach. But do a search.

Ok, had a look here and yes someone does mention there is a difference. However, ive spoken to two different auto electricians and they both say that the only choice is bosch vs aftermarket.

So ive found a place close that sells the aftermarket one for cheap, got the guy to double check the listings and got one on order.

Will snap a pic if anyone cares to see if there is a difference.

Why not simply pull yours out and get that reconditioned? Most auto-electricians should be able to do it.

Why not simply pull yours out and get that reconditioned? Most auto-electricians should be able to do it.
used to be the way but unfortunatley nowadays alot of sparkies dont want to spend the time on common brands and like to put in new ones that are readily available and have a manufacturers warranty and then they have less things to worry about. My sparky only does some as an old favour to me after giving him so much work over the last 20+ years.
The old time is money thing as well as they can spend it on a more lucrative jobs!!Custom rewires etc!! Vee

pretty much. Considering they sell new ones for the same price as parts + labour to rebuild them the sparkies dont want to touch them unless they are a specialist who only does starters / alternators etc.

Getting back to the story, I rang back the parts store and apparently the order didnt go through that I placed.

The new guy who served me had to redo the order, and upon looking throught the parts catalogue has seen that the books state - Mitsu or Bosch. Also that the tooth count on the starter mentions that there is a choice of 8 or 9 teeth. ALSO that there is a different measurement for the bolt holes to the bellhousing.....

Now I need to take mine off BEFORE I can order one. Luckily they will let me return the new one if its wrong though, so fingers crossed.

Now I need to take mine off BEFORE I can order one. Luckily they will let me return the new one if its wrong though, so fingers crossed.

Yep, take it off, clean it up get the make and part number.
Have the old and new on the parts counter before you pay, and do a comparison. Once they have your money and you find out it is the wrong one, they will be in no hurry to get the right one in for you.

as above its no fun fitting the wrong starter

happy endings.

That bottom support bracket bolt is 1 million times easier to get to from beneath. Its literally in your face from below the car.

Popped the bolt off and the starter came out after I took the wiring off. Old one went in, and.....she wouldn't start. :D

Battery was dead, so jumped it and vroom vroom.

Starts like a champ now.