Hi, I was down at Liverpool Exhaust today and the guy said he has the extractors available, (from RPW i would guess) but he wants $1200 fitted? He also said he could do a best price of selling me the extractors by themself for $850 ?

Do you guys think it is worth it? Or should i just try another exhaust shop? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Last I knew Liverpool Exhaust used to make the 380 extractors for RPW, and not the other way around, but some time ago RPW obtained a new supplier. But I could be wrong.

The RPW price for 380 extractors is now $727.27, see this page: http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=1354&category_id=917&keyword=380&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

But RPW have a habit of not mentioning that this is possibly the before GST price, so the real price could be near as dammit to $800. Then you need to factor in postage from WA to NSW. So $850 might not be far off the mark.

$350 for fitting is a bit steep, a half decent exhaust shop should charge no more than $250.

i dont think its worth it as the ECU thinks theres a fault

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98530&page=1

Oh okay, thanks. Well i just contacted RPW, $777 for the final price with shipping and GST. Now i just need a exhaust shop to put the extractors in, would anyone know a decent exhaust shop in the Sydney area?

yeah, extreme exhausts and automotive where i workkkk.... but its in penrith

That's an idea I was looking at too... but when I was, I was told Liverpool Exhaust could NOT sell the exhausts without the installation, due to the deal with RPW... but sounds like RPW's price is actually better!
Also make sure you get the O2 sensors as well, otherwise you'll get the CEL. Last time I looked, they were about $35 - and that aforementioned link does not imply that they are included. (Had a look now and cannot find the product so maybe it is included)
And also make sure you change the (current) third cat too, apparently it's a useless back-up, but probably not good enough to take over full duties.

That's an idea I was looking at too... but when I was, I was told Liverpool Exhaust could NOT sell the exhausts without the installation, due to the deal with RPW... but sounds like RPW's price is actually better!
Also make sure you get the O2 sensors as well, otherwise you'll get the CEL. Last time I looked, they were about $35 - and that aforementioned link does not imply that they are included. (Had a look now and cannot find the product so maybe it is included)
And also make sure you change the (current) third cat too, apparently it's a useless back-up, but probably not good enough to take over full duties.

Yeah, i think they might of changed that recently and now sell them but would be better to actually get them from RPW. Hmm, do you think Liverpool Exhaust would include the O2 sensors in the package ? Yeah ill end up changing the third cat too, i read from Mitsu Miyagi and other forum posts that the extractors tend to have quite some problems with cracks and so on, i was wondering if anyone would know if the extractors ended up cracking/leaking whatever it is, do you think Liverpool Exhaust would provide some sort of warranty since it is their own product and their own installation, just a thought.

Yeah, i think they might of changed that recently and now sell them but would be better to actually get them from RPW. Hmm, do you think Liverpool Exhaust would include the O2 sensors in the package ? Yeah ill end up changing the third cat too, i read from Mitsu Miyagi and other forum posts that the extractors tend to have quite some problems with cracks and so on, i was wondering if anyone would know if the extractors ended up cracking/leaking whatever it is, do you think Liverpool Exhaust would provide some sort of warranty since it is their own product and their own installation, just a thought.
I don't know if Liverpool Exhaust sell the sensors or not. I tried to look on their webpage but not much there. I have been there a few times but in the early 90s to put headers and hotdog mufflers on my first and second cars - but haven't been there since then, so no idea what they are like now. One member here, BloodAsp, was the first I believe to get those Liverpool Exhaust headers on a 380, and I recall he had some dramas because of the sensor (I think) but he was okay after that. But he appears to have disappeared from here ages ago (he was military I remember). I'd prefer the RPW-direct product especially if it is cheaper, and it would definately come with the sensor (or they'd mention it), and I presume a warranty of some sort. Their website has changed; there used to be 3 stages of 380 performance mods available - now no mention of that at all. And the sensors were a separate product... maybe all included now. Last time I checked with my mechanic, there are no other manufacturers of these headers for 380... unless you go and make them yourself like someone here recently mentioned trying to do.

Hi,

I recently got the RPW extractors direct and had them fitted by an exhaust place here in newcastle along with a 3" cat back systrem. RPW Charged $825 all up (Including postage) They came wit the O2 sensors and yes the CEL light has come on. I discussed it all with my mechanic and he suggests running leads from the second O2 Sensor to the third one. this should stop the problem. Other suggestions on this forum have been to place a couple of washers under the O2 Sensor thus moving it away from the direct flow of exhaust gases. I haven't tried this yet but I might.

Hi,

I recently got the RPW extractors direct and had them fitted by an exhaust place here in newcastle along with a 3" cat back systrem. RPW Charged $825 all up (Including postage) They came wit the O2 sensors and yes the CEL light has come on. I discussed it all with my mechanic and he suggests running leads from the second O2 Sensor to the third one. this should stop the problem. Other suggestions on this forum have been to place a couple of washers under the O2 Sensor thus moving it away from the direct flow of exhaust gases. I haven't tried this yet but I might.

This is much the same idea as Fooz & I tried with O2 sensor extenders. Fooz bought his (from the States I think), I had my exhaust bloke make up mine (he outsourced the job to an engineering workshop).

These extenders are about 40mm long, much more than a couple of washers.

But they haven't really worked, we both get O2 sensor error codes all the time.

I'm now running only one of these extenders, as when my exhaust bloke swapped out my 200 CPSI Zetti metal cat for a bigger 350 CPSI Magnaflow metal cat about a year ago (in yet another failed attempt to cure my exhaust drone/resonance at certain revs), he advised that the two extenders weren't needed any more so they might as well come off. He got one off OK but the other one was super tight & wouldn't budge, and he wasn't prepared to risk snapping or breaking something in an attempt to get it off, so it's still there. Having only one extender has made absolutely no difference to how the car runs (great!) or the type & frequency of O2 error codes.

So the moral of the story is that washers or extenders may or may not work for you.

I found a company in US called Magnum Tuning. They make a product called EZ CELFIX O2 Sensor Simulator .

The claims are as follows: The EZ CELFIX O2 Sensor Simulator cures all catalyst efficiency signal related check engine light issues occurred after serious exhaust modification as headers, free flow catback system, etc. or decatting. When ECU is reading an irregular oxygen sensor signal being out of the range yet accepted, an o2 sensor-related trouble code will be generated with check engine light issue. While CEL is lighting, engine runs in ECU safe/limp mode. That's why you need to wire up EZ Cel Fix Oxygen Sensor Simulator to the (post) oxygen sensor(s). 10-year factory-warranty.
The cost is US $69.99 plus postage. Has anyone heard of this before? I am not technically minded so I'd be interested in your opinion.

Sounds like a good idea & worth a try if you are worried about the CEL. You will need the dearer one though for $99 with the heater simulator included.

I have just blocked my CEL off although I permanantly have about 12 codes up with the larger injectors & supercharger as well.

I found a company in US called Magnum Tuning. They make a product called EZ CELFIX O2 Sensor Simulator .

The claims are as follows: The EZ CELFIX O2 Sensor Simulator cures all catalyst efficiency signal related check engine light issues occurred after serious exhaust modification as headers, free flow catback system, etc. or decatting. When ECU is reading an irregular oxygen sensor signal being out of the range yet accepted, an o2 sensor-related trouble code will be generated with check engine light issue. While CEL is lighting, engine runs in ECU safe/limp mode. That's why you need to wire up EZ Cel Fix Oxygen Sensor Simulator to the (post) oxygen sensor(s). 10-year factory-warranty.
The cost is US $69.99 plus postage. Has anyone heard of this before? I am not technically minded so I'd be interested in your opinion.


Looks interesting but I'm not convinced they would work on a 380 with it's notoriously fussy ECU.

Also, it seems for a 380 you would need two of the 'heated' types rather than the standard types, at US$99.99 each plus postage, see this page:

http://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detail/adjustable-oxygen-sensor-simulator

Most of my O2 sensor error codes mention 'heated'.

Then you would need access to a hoist to fit them, even if you knew what you were doing, and if you didn't know what you were doing you'd have to pay someone to fit them for you.

So could be quite expensive & no guarantee of success.

As I've said before, I've never detected any loss of performance or excessive fuel consumption due to the two rear O2 sensors possibly not working, so I won't be experimenting with these any time soon.

But I'm all ears if someone else wants to try them!

Edit - Fooz beat me to it!

Ok thanks for the tip

When you say you blocked off the CEL, did you just take out the LED so the light wouldn't show? I have heard that after the CEL goes on, the computer automatcially makes a number of adjsutmensts to fuel and air mixture resulting in higher fuel consumption.. Which is what I have noticed since having the RPW Headers and cat back system installed. If I spend the $99 on the Sensor simulator I am assuimg this will result in a correct air/fuel mixture and improve my fuel consumption, but I may be way off here>

When you say you blocked off the CEL, did you just take out the LED so the light wouldn't show? I have heard that after the CEL goes on, the computer automatcially makes a number of adjsutmensts to fuel and air mixture resulting in higher fuel consumption.. Which is what I have noticed since having the RPW Headers and cat back system installed. If I spend the $99 on the Sensor simulator I am assuimg this will result in a correct air/fuel mixture and improve my fuel consumption, but I may be way off here>

All Fooz & I did was to block the LED CEL light with a small piece of black foam in the instrument cluster. So it's still coming on, but you can't see it.

I reset my O2 sensor error codes every week or so, but they come right back again within a few k.

I don't think the ECU is adjusting my air/fuel mixtures as a result of O2 sensor errors codes, but even if it is trying to I suspect it is being overridden by my piggyback ECU. Maybe the same goes for Fooz who is also running a piggyback (but with a supercharger as well).

I say this because my fuel economy seems about right for a manual that is driven 3/4 stop start peak hour traffic and 1/4 freeway, with plenty of right foot application from time to time. Long term I have consistently averaged 12.3 l/100km.

Only one way for you to find out and that's have a go, but as I said earlier I think you'll need two of them + postage + maybe fitting labour, so it won't be cheap.

Er, starting to sound too complicated for me. Great read up though; I didn't realise the 380 ecu was that tricky.

The CEL on the rear bank O2 sensors won't change economy. The worse economy with the extractors is from the increased flow & the ecu trying to adjust. If you check your AFR you will find it could be down to 10:1 at points. With the piggyback which we both run these have been corrected, so tuned for the installed mods for correct AFR etc.

Well guys, i am heading down to liverpool exhausts to get it fitted tomorrow, i hope there are no complications or problems :D

So you think that I should get a piggy back ECU given that I have had the Headers and exhaust modified? Which one is regarded as the best and how much is it?

Sorry, one more thing. I have spent ages trying to get someone to sell me a supercharger kit but with no success. Where did you get yours from? (sprintex?) but they don't make them for the 380 anymore.

So you think that I should get a piggy back ECU given that I have had the Headers and exhaust modified? Which one is regarded as the best and how much is it?

If you've only recently put the extractors on I'd just try a ecu reset firstly, not perfect but may help with your economy issues. The piggyback isn't really worth it if all you want to do is improve your economy, we are talking a $1200 - $1600 outlay to save a little bit of fuel. If you want to squeeze every last drop of power out of your mods you will only be gaining about 6KW at the wheels on 98 but driveability will be better & a slight improvement in economy if tuned that way. Dual maps maybe an option. I have the Unichip Q & others have used the Exede both give the same results but I think the Unichip is a little cheaper.


Sorry, one more thing. I have spent ages trying to get someone to sell me a supercharger kit but with no success. Where did you get yours from? (sprintex?) but they don't make them for the 380 anymore.

Yep I have Sprintex but PM Grapedrink, he is currently having a Rotrex system installed, maybe if you both go ahead a better deal could be struck .....

Thanks Fooz. I'll look into it.

When you upgraded your factory audio system, what does the fascia now look like with the Double Din in place? Did you need any additional mods to enable the new system to be operated with the steering wheel controls? I have seen special 380 fascias on the net that can accommodate double din but which retain the Air-con controls etc but I don't know ho good they are.
I have got sick and tired of my factroy system. even though I have upgraded with amp and better speakers I have noticed how poor the FM Radio reception is with so much static compared to aftermarket upgraded units.

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh60/foozrcool/f2d1a735.jpg

Thats an aftermarket double din & I think the black looks better than the factory grey. You will need a PAC steering wheel interface to suit the brand of deck you get.

Thank you

Well guys, i am heading down to liverpool exhausts to get it fitted tomorrow, i hope there are no complications or problems :D
Good luck. Let us know how it feels/goes/sounds afterwards.

Hey guys got it fitted, goes strong, a noticeable improvement in speed, sounds louder but not as loud as expected, and i dont seem to be grtting any poblems such as CEL light and that ? I think he said he put original sensors in or something, not sure

Hey guys got it fitted, goes strong, a noticeable improvement in speed, sounds louder but not as loud as expected, and i dont seem to be grtting any poblems such as CEL light and that ? I think he said he put original sensors in or something, not sure

Sounds good so far.

But don't count your chickens just yet, sometimes it takes 100 or 200 kilometres after fitting RPW extractors for the CELs to show up.

Changing the sensors themselves wouldn't make any difference, it's just that in theory the rear two O2 sensors need to be relocated to after the remaining cat, and the stock wiring won't reach that far. So you need to extend the wiring. And maybe use extenders/spacers in the O2 sensor bungs as well, but the jury is still out on whether that works or not.

I've tried all sorts of things in the past & the best I got was about 300-400k's before the CEL reared its ugly head .......

Hey guys got it fitted, goes strong, a noticeable improvement in speed, sounds louder but not as loud as expected, and i dont seem to be grtting any poblems such as CEL light and that ? I think he said he put original sensors in or something, not sure
When I put Pacemaker extractors on my Magna, the sound wasn't much louder but deeper.
How long did the job take?

So how did you actually block off the CEL light, does it actually mean anything, does it affect the car? What are the odds that i beat the system? Lol what would you guys recommend for the next upgrade for performance? The job was started at 9 and ended at 1, so if he worked constant it would be 4 hours :)

So how did you actually block off the CEL light, does it actually mean anything, does it affect the car? What are the odds that i beat the system? Lol what would you guys recommend for the next upgrade for performance? The job was started at 9 and ended at 1, so if he worked constant it would be 4 hours :)

Fooz had a very easy solution to the CEL problem. He stuck some tape over the LED so it can't be seen even though the CEL is still on. I am going to try two of the forum's suggestions when my exhaust guy reopens. 1. Sticking washers underneath the O2 Sensors and 2. Extending the wiring from the second O2 Sensor to the third. I am hoping one of these works, if not I'll do what Fooz has done!! Here's hoping