Had the front wheel alignment done and the guy was nice enough to point out that the front left pads were almost down to metal whereas the right side had plenty of meat left. He reckons its a sticking caliper. He also pointed out and it's easy to see through the VRX rims that the left rotor is slightly thinner than the right and may be beyond limits.

Can the the calipers be rebuilt with a kit? I've done a few master and slave cylinders over the years no probs. What could cause the sticking caliper? Is it a common fault? The system is not leaking.

Tbh seems easier to get a new set of calipers off a wreck because theoretically they should have the same amount of kms on them and *hopefully* grip the same.

Good opportunity to upgrade to 380 front brakes.

I'm with Brewer, 380 brakes are a bolt on upgrade and have good braking power! Wont cost much more than rebuilding the calipers

Pull them both off and pull them apart. Most likely you won't need new rubbers. Examine the bores and pistons for grooves and wear, replace any caliper that is beyond use. Reassemble, install, bleed. Lube the piston with brake fluid and it should push right in with some pressure applied. Good time to clean and lubricate the slide pins while it's apart. Even paint the calipers if you are that way inclined.
Most likely the current difference in pad wear is due to air in one caliper, or rubber wear material jamming one piston, or guide pin lube drying out and seizing.

Buying second hand brake calipers would see you pull them apart to see what condition they are in anyway.

If you don't feel confident doing this, take both calipers to a brake shop and ask them to do the work. A disc skim might be in order too.

Thanks MadMax for the advice. Although a 380 upgrade would be nice, I really CBF as its the wife's daily driver, family workhorse, I'm moving my family to Canberra (work posting) and I'm flat out getting my house ready to be rented.

Looks like I will be putting aside the better part of a day to disassemble and reassemble the calipers.

If the caliper is stuck, it is in the sliding part , not the hydraulic section. The whole caliper slides across and is lubricated by a high temperature grease. This area is protected by a rubber bellows. Pull it apart and regrease it and you will have original braking again.

Generally is the sliders which cause these problems, kits are available for these or used callipers will generally go for around the $45 ea mark

I had this issue with a number of cars fitted with single piston calipers and just rebuilt another set last week where the sliding pins/tubes had to be tapped out with a hammer. When cleaned up and greased they can be moved with finger force. I'm surprised that greasing the sliding pins isn't included in the maintenance schedule of the driver's handbook because they all seem to lock up in time.

They should be cleaned and greased when changing brake pads.