Hey guys,

The paint on my roof started looking a bit strange since last wash. It feels a bit rough and doesn't look as shiny. Attached are pics. Anyone got any idea on how to fix? TL VR-X with sable black paint (green flecks). Parked outside the last 3 years. Can i use a product on it...or would it need a respray?

http://i49.tinypic.com/2qibtbc.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/2e6ef14.jpg

clay bar it then polish and wax it, If that doesnt help you will more than likely not be able to fix it without a respray.

I would say that a respray may be necessary, but given the paint hasn't actually begun to flake or peel, you may be able to use a cutting compound to improve things. I used Meguiars Ultimate Compound on my mum's white VE Commodore a few weeks ago, and for an off the shelf product applied by hand, I was very impressed with the results.

Menzerna polishes work quite well, see here.
http://www.mobileelectronics.com.au/forums/index.php/topic/536708-car-care/page__p__912398#entry912398

Duragloss and Dodo Juice products are also defiantly are ones to look into, once your done use a Synthetic Sealant on the paint work, these last longer than traditional carnuba waxes. You can just buy some Megs/Mother OTC products from Autobarn but if you dont mind taking the time to source some of the products above you wont look back.

Thanks for the suggestion guys, ill definitly look at the maguiars clay bar >>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfEfLGL59GI

Hopefully can get some from Autobahn or the likes

It'll need a good cut and polish, to do it properly it really needs to be done with a machine. Then you need to use a polish that's UV treated to help protect the paint from the sun.

Claybar wont help that, you will need a cut and polish, then seal the paint work with a good quality sealant. Claybars remove contaminates off the surface of the paint, cutting compound or paint correction products (like meg's ultimate compound) actually remove a thin coating of the clear coat which is normally where alot of the problems are.

Thanks for the suggestion guys, ill definitly look at the maguiars clay bar
Using a clay bar on your car is a good idea, especially if it lives outside.

However, a clay bay removes contaminants from the surface of the paint. It will do nothing for dull or faded paint. You really need a cutting compound of some description.

Its hard to tell from pics, but that clear coat looks beyond help. A machine polish may damage it further if its started to lift...

Hey guys,

The paint on my roof started looking a bit strange since last wash. It feels a bit rough and doesn't look as shiny. Attached are pics. Anyone got any idea on how to fix? TL VR-X with sable black paint (green flecks). Parked outside the last 3 years. Can i use a product on it...or would it need a respray?

http://i49.tinypic.com/2qibtbc.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/2e6ef14.jpg

No polish can fix it, the only way is a respray ,I don't understand others saying polish can fix it and anyone with half a brain knows you don't use a cutting compound on a metallic paint, well you can but it wont fix the damage

anyone with half a brain knows you don't use a cutting compound on a metallic paint
If you can't cut back metallic paint, why do high-end detailers use cutting compounds when performing paint corrections?

No polish can fix it, the only way is a respray ,I don't understand others saying polish can fix it and anyone with half a brain knows you don't use a cutting compound on a metallic paint, well you can but it wont fix the damage

Although you are correct that it cant be fixed with polish, you are wrong about the paint correction so maybe it is you with only half a brain. All
Metallics will have a clearcoat. This clearcoat is susceptible to damage and deteriorates over time. A cutting polish can certainly rejuvinate the paint. This is what paint correction is all about

No polish can fix it, the only way is a respray ,I don't understand others saying polish can fix it and anyone with half a brain knows you don't use a cutting compound on a metallic paint, well you can but it wont fix the damage

LOL! All these years i have been fixing light scratches (successfully i must say) with cutting compound on my silver metallic, oh well life with half a brain is not so bad after all.

I would suggest perhaps give it a light sand with 1600 grid paper, to get rid of this oxidation, then try cutting compound, i use Juice Polishers cutting compund, its water based, has no oil, it helps to truly see if cutting has removed the defects as most cutting compounds with oil make it look shiny but once oil is washed away surface defect might still be there. Then seal it with any wax/sealant, if you dont wax car regularly go for synthetic sealant (like NUfinish), not as much gloss as carnauba based wax but will last longer.

Gosh, a room full of long-distance experts! lol
Big difference between touching up some light scratches on healthy clear coat and fixing clear coat that has deteriorated.
Cutting the clearcoat back to get a shine back on the panels may well see you remove all the clearcoat in patches and as the base colour is very soft (and dull) it is easy to cut through to the primer.

Get someone who knows what they are doing to look at the paint damage, and follow their advice.

Definitely a respray. I had the roof of my 380 go exactly the same. Apparently its common on mitsis. A problem with the primer and top coat letting go.
I had mine done cost me $300.
Boot lid is going the same way. Had bonnet done last year.

Gosh, a room full of long-distance experts! lol
Big difference between touching up some light scratches on healthy clear coat and fixing clear coat that has deteriorated.
Cutting the clearcoat back to get a shine back on the panels may well see you remove all the clearcoat in patches and as the base colour is very soft (and dull) it is easy to cut through to the primer.

Get someone who knows what they are doing to look at the paint damage, and follow their advice.

Nobody said he can fix it, all I said is to try see if he can get to acceptable level. Guess what if he damages clear coat so bad that its completely gone he can always go and respray.

Clear coat is a lot thicker then base coat, my car has been parked out side for 12 years and its still shiny, regular waxing protects from uv damage.

While I might not be so called long distance expert, I know one thing or two about car care products and.how they work so I think my advice is worth atleast something

http://i1012.photobucket.com/albums/af244/e363ma78/IMAG0516.jpg

Nobody said he can fix it, all I said is to try see if he can get to acceptable level. Guess what if he damages clear coat so bad that its completely gone he can always go and respray.

Clear coat is a lot thicker then base coat, my car has been parked out side for 12 years and its still shiny, regular waxing protects from uv damage.

While I might not be so called long distance expert, I know one thing or two about car care products and.how they work so I think my advice is worth atleast something



No offense intended to you or the products you trust and believe in. It's just that a lot of people ignore paint protection and notice paint degradation far too late and hope to hell that some magic/cheap/quick solution exists to fix dead paint, when it is many years too late for any preventive action. Best time to start looking after a car's paint is soon after it leaves the showroom really.

When sanding it is vital you understand what exactly you are sanding, this is why you use something fine eg: 2000grit paper and use it wet, this way you can do it in stages, dry it off, check the surface and continuing sanding if needed.

A decent cut may not remove all of it, but it could remove some and aslong as you do not cut through to the base coat I would call it a success.

Im not trying to say im an expert, but im not one to say things just for the point of talking, im also someone who would like to provide someone with methods that they can try before jumping to the obvious solution, its their choice on how they choose to undertake it, and god forbid someone learns something along the way. If someone cannot cut back deterioration that has baked too far into the paint system and must pay for a respray, then maybe they will show a little more appreciation for their paintwork. I know until recently I took my paint for granted and didnt seal it as often as I should.

I'm guilty of that too.
My TL in starlight mica hasn't been touched for 4 months, and my TJ that I repainted in flame red 2 years ago (and since has been appropriated by my daughter) hasn't been touched in that time. When I get that back, it will get a light sand and a few more coats of paint, it will need it.

Thanks for all the advice fellas, might have to take it to a shop so they can see in person. $300 is a lot cheaper than i thought to get roof painted...im guessing 500-600 for roof and bonnet? But ill ask someone in person first and try a cut and polish