After my hydraulic line started leaking, i decided to put some transmission stop leak in my master cylinder. Turns out it destroyed all the rubber in the system.

I got my master reconditioned. A mate got some steel tube and flanged it. And i bought a new slave, and rubber tube. I have great working clutch components, but cannot fill them up.

http://www.upurload.com/files/e1d9412810da5ae4aa3d44d1f4ef6c73.jpg

The guy who made my clutch line did give me advice, he said to undo the bleeder, and put a long tube over it. One that was higher up than the master cylinder. This would help get rid of air.

http://www.upurload.com/files/025e98f94b21bc75ce93e4938e4a45f3.jpg

nope, the bleeder line needs to be lower so it gravity bleeds the system, then get a friend/family member to depress the clutch while you crak the bleed nipple, and before he lifts the clutch back up close the nipple off, repeat until you have no air in the system.


without being harsh, sounds like you dont know to much about cars so would advise this be done by som1 who does... puts flame suit on

Nah, i dont know that much, but me and my dad changed the engine over by ourselves. And i change my own brakes, suspension and constant velocity joints. The front wheel drives really dont hoon very well.

But when it comes to hydraulics i dont know much.

Just so you know though, i already know how to bleed it. But when the line is dry you cannot just fill the master and hope it will pump through the system. The master isnt a proper pump, it pushes AND sucks. Thats why the reservoir doesn't run out.

fair enough, it just sounded like you were pretty fresh with cars....apologies if i sounded rude...

Use a clean piece of clear hose on the bleed nipple and suck! (Don't get a mouth full of brake fluid though) Once the fluid starts flowing it will keep flowing, just lower the tube into a container (below the level of the slave cylinder) and close the bleed nipple once there are no air bubbles coming out.
No need to pump pedal.
Keep trans stop leak well away in future. lol

@Trotty thats ok. Sorry for retaliating. However subtle it may be.

Now thats a good idea. The guy i know told me to leave it for a few hours left open, so the air can naturally come out. But sucking would make the process a lot faster.

So this process is like siphoning?

use a long piece of clear pipe so you can see when to pull your mouth away if you do it that way. lol

just had a few goes at it. no luck. I cant get a good seal between the hose and the bleeder. Even tried using an air compressor with a spray paint nozzle doing the sucking. That helped find a loose flare nut. A guy is coming over tomorrow to look at it. Me and dad are both sick of it. Weve done a shitload of bleeding when we thought it had enough fluid in it

Check pedal free play. The plunger that sits on the end of the master cylinder has the push rod resting in it, if the rod pushes on the plunger at all, the bleed hole will be covered and the air from the master cylinder won't escape. (Bleed hole normally releases any fluid pressure in the line once you let the clutch up.)
If it is not that, take the master cylinder off and fill it up with fluid, them push the plunger with a screw driver until the fluid comes out the other end. Use a bleed valve to seal the outflow port until you install it and hook up the line.

freeplay isnt too good. Were talking at least 100mm. 3-5mm is unheard of in my car! But thats based on how the clutch felt when it still worked. I have adjusted it to be as far from the masters piston as possible, just to be sure.

Anyway, every time we even try to bleed it there is just no pressure. Im not sure what that points to, maybe we didnt reco the master properly (we didnt get new rubbers. just cleaned it) but its not the master that i put the stop leak in. The master ive got now worked ok in the past.

or it could be just some air in the line, thats making it get no pressure. im not sure what is more likely.

Edit: i dont know if it matters, but if i undo the line from the outflow, and pump the clutch, fluid will NOT come out.

Fluid only comes out if i take the master apart, fill the plunger bore up, then put it together without pumping it. On the first pump, fluid comes out. After that, maybe a tiny little bit of fluid comes out. But thats it. It does not consistantly pump out fluid

At the base of the reservoir there is an inlet valve. Take the plastic reservoir right off, and see if the valve into the master cylinder is clear. Otherwise take the master cylinder right off, and check/clean everything. Cups in good condition and installed the right way round?

Definitely something wrong, fluid should flow into the cylinder and out the outlet by gravity alone, without ever needing to pump the pedal.

My master is not good. It doesn't work properly. It doesn't even fully retract through spring pressure. It only pushes back no more than half way. And is extremely tight and very difficult to push in by hand.

The cups are probably the right way around since i never took them off the piston (i assume there the rubbers), but i dont think there in good condition. The bore also is not perfectly smooth.

Ill be getting a new one, and after that i should not have any more issues. I cant find any cheap though. Best on ebay is over $100

Oh, and i forgot to mention its a fully metal master. I dont think the reservoir can be removed from the rest of the master. It looks exactly like this

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?um=1&hl=en&safe=off&tbo=d&biw=1024&bih=624&tbm=isch&tbnid=FDQqYj5RgBuBHM:&imgrefurl=http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Magna-TM-TN-TP-2-6L-4-85-4-92-/150805373942&docid=GvITe20Z1rGzIM&itg=1&imgurl=http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/%2524%28KGrHqRHJDIE-SFnrLFKBPmzKbEN4!~~60_35.JPG&w=300&h=225&ei=qvMFUf7ZLYGPmQX07YHoCA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=12&vpy=141&dur=782&hovh=138&hovw=186&tx=92&ty=64&sig=110145793664060487805&page=1&tbnh=138&tbnw=186&start=0&ndsp=15&ved=1t:429,r:0,s:0,i:79

MadMax your knowledge of these systems is incredible. Thankyou for spending the time to help me. I would have otherwise mucked around with my dodgy master for days if i ever realised it was at fault.

No, sorry. I was thinking of the one with a plastic reservoir clamped to the metal body.
Been a while since I pulled one of these apart.
The metal block under the rubber boot should be hard up against the circlip at the end with the push rod removed. Have you tried washing the parts with metho, drying them then lubricating with brake fluid? Spring internal to the master cylinder should have no problem pushing the end of the piston back against the stop.
Then again if you are sick of stuffing around with it, you could try the wreckers to see if you can find one with fluid still in it, don't take an empty one.

oh, thanks for the advice. It might have been a while since you've done it, but you still know exactly how they work. That metal block does not stay hard against the circlip. At least after pumping it a few times. It stays well away from it, jamming up somewhere. Somethings clearly wrong with it.

I think my dad cleaned the whole metal part with either thinners or petrol. Then i washed it, plunger and all in warm soapy water. Ill try the wreckers tomorrow though. Its hard to find manual magnas locally but theres heaps of wreckers about an hour away that should have them for sure.

if you get stuck finding one i have acouple here

oh, sweet. I live in Colac, an hour from Geelong. Do you live far away?

If you are going to dismantle and clean out another one, keep petrol, thinners etc well away. Swells the cups up somewhat chronic.
For storing a used hydraulic component like a brake master cylinder, I dismantle, wash with lots of plain water, rinse with methylated spirits, let dry, lube all bits with brake fluid, reassemble, store in plastic bag.

Works for me anyway. You might want to pick up a cheap spare when you can if they are that expensive new.

(Obviously good idea to check bore and cups for condition while apart.)

oh, sweet. I live in Colac, an hour from Geelong. Do you live far away?
im in gippsland so post would be best

@MadMax I thought petrol would be ok for it, obviously not the rubbers, but for the empty master? Unless it destroys that valve you mentioned earlier.

@magnaman89 If i cant find a spare at the wreckers today i would really like to buy one from you. You name the price. Its driving me mad not having a car

the price will be first dibbs on your car if you ever sell it.
i can get one that,s still on the car but it will be a couple day . or i can send one thats been empty about a month on wensday

sounds good. Id like the empty one, since i could get it slightly faster, but i fear MadMax is right in telling me never to get an empty one.

Edit: I found a master at the wreckers. One with a plastic reservoir, from a V6. My car now runs fine. Id like to thank everybody for their time in contributing to this post. Thats the only reason my car is running today.

ah good to hear,,, back on the road again!!!

Yep. Its a great feeling, driving my own car again. Now i dont have to drive my dads ute. It has a worn out distributor, and stalls at every intersection. Not driving it anymore!

oh, sweet. I live in Colac, an hour from Geelong. Do you live far away?

Small world, I grew up in Colac. Glad to hear you got your old beast going again :)