Hey,

looking for opinions on this camshaft cap. The marks are also now on the camshaft as well. Is the cap itself the bearing material or is it impregnated on the cap surface and now it's worn through?

I have no clue about this and I'm thinking I was not clean enough on the install. Just another note the heads were bathed with the cams out when I got the heads done 30 000k ago and I do remember all the cap surfaces looked rough maybe from the cleaning solution eating the surfaces?

I'm doing the lash adjusters and replacing the rocker seal again with OEM parts this time because i can't seem to get the leaks sorted. Also I think I've used the wrong sealant under the caps so I'm revisiting them whic is how i exposed this new issue.

Can I get away with inserting the cam seals both ends with some sealant and fitting the caps or is it mandatory to tighten the caps and tap the seals in?

I wish i could work out how the hell to post pictures on this forum like the rest of you!

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/album.php?albumid=441&attachmentid=47132

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=15770

Email me the pics to sales@mitsfix.com and I will have a look as I would only be guessing if I commented here

Yeah, pity you can't put pictures up.
General comments here:- (based on my past experience with 4 cylinder Mitsu cylinder heads)

Rough appearing surface on cam bearing surfaces is normal after a chemical wash. Helps retain lubricant.
Likewise, some small surface scratches on the cam and lower bearing surface is to be expected. Heavy grooves though are a problem. (Can be line bored)
Don't use any sort of sealant between the mating surfaces of the bearing caps and head. (Unless the manual calls for it)
Make sure everything, especially the mating surfaces, are completely clean.
Use a torque wrench on the cap bolts, and in the right tightening sequence. (Check if the bolts go in dry or oiled)
Use a cam lube on the lower bearing surface. Drop the cam in, then a small blob of lube on the cap bearing surface before you put it on.(The alloy of the head and cap are the bearing surfaces, no special surface treatment.)
OK to put cam seals in before you tighten the caps, but you could risk getting sealant onto the cam itself or between the cap and head. Or even into oil passages if the seal is near a cap that carries oil to the cam and lifters. (Probably safer to install them after caps are torqued down)

IF any of this is incorrect, I'm sure Mal will sort it out in his usual informative style. lol

Yeah, pity you can't put pictures up.
General comments here:- (based on my past experience with 4 cylinder Mitsu cylinder heads)

Rough appearing surface on cam bearing surfaces is normal after a chemical wash. Helps retain lubricant.
Likewise, some small surface scratches on the cam and lower bearing surface is to be expected. Heavy grooves though are a problem. (Can be line bored)
Don't use any sort of sealant between the mating surfaces of the bearing caps and head. (Unless the manual calls for it)
Make sure everything, especially the mating surfaces, are completely clean.
Use a torque wrench on the cap bolts, and in the right tightening sequence. (Check if the bolts go in dry or oiled)
Use a cam lube on the lower bearing surface. Drop the cam in, then a small blob of lube on the cap bearing surface before you put it on.(The alloy of the head and cap are the bearing surfaces, no special surface treatment.)
OK to put cam seals in before you tighten the caps, but you could risk getting sealant onto the cam itself or between the cap and head. Or even into oil passages if the seal is near a cap that carries oil to the cam and lifters. (Probably safer to install them after caps are torqued down)

IF any of this is incorrect, I'm sure Mal will sort it out in his usual informative style. lol

Well i did most of that then except cam lube. I just used an oil can with fresh oil. Sealant is used undera end portion of the end caps which this one is.

Even though the picture is a fail, what has me a little concerned is 50% is scored + 50% smooth.

I'm getting flashbacks to 30years ago when I was a kid fooling around with my first motor (Toyota 3K) when I decided to swap the MB Caps from one block to another.

That was interesting. Pretty sure though I did not mix the caps as they're numbered and stamped either E or I for exhaust/inlet.

This one