Can't find my Haynes manual anywhere so can someone please tell me how many bolts are holding on rear cam cover? I've taken five out running anto clockwise in sequence and it still won't come out. Is there another hidden away somewhere?

Anyway this is all in aid of finding oil leak which has covered rear and left hand side of the engine. I can see there is oil inside the rear cam cover and some on the inner surface of the belt (not good I know :( ). So am I correct in thinking rear cam seal shot and no chance it's rear rocker cover gasket or plug seals? Thanks.

Looking at the pics in the Ellery Manual there are 6 bolts holding the rocker cover to the head. Will also have bolt(s) holding the rear tiiming belt cover in position.

Cheers

Thanks. It's the rear cam cover that's the problem. Can't find any more bolts after the five running anti clockwise from where it butts onto the front cover and wondering if there is another in a difficult spot lower down, or its held by a clip or somesuch and just needs a good pull, but don't want to force anything.

Look behind the lift hook at the outer edge of the cam cover nearest the distributor for the 6th bolt.

If you have a new rocker cover gasket you will see the places the 6 bolts go.

No clips of any sort, once you pull the plug tubes out, should come off. There is a hose running off the cam cover near the distributor that needs taking off.

Remove the rear cam cover as this folds over and holds one edge of the rocker cover.

If you have oil on the cam belt it's probably a cam seal or the crank seal. New seals, new belt, new tube and rocker cover gaskets called for.

No one has mentioned that the upper manifold has to come off, I am not stating that the OP is an idiot but my not be aware it has to be removed as the cover does not slide out as such, I have seen mechanics assume it was able to be take off with the manifold still in place

If you look at the front cover all bolts are easy to see, the rear is simply a reverse of the front if that makes sense

Often the cam seal will leak due to the cross over pipe between the 2 covers being blocked as well as other breather pipes, pressure builds up and then you get the leak

When you state LHS you mean the passenger side of the vehicle I hope unless you have a Left hand drive car, if you mean the cam cover end this is the RHS of the motor (ie RHD car)

Sorry, I was thinking this was for the rocker cover removal, ignore above was too early

The cam belt cover you need to remove the power steering belt and the tensioner swing arm before the cover will come off

There are 3 bolts up top, and a 12mm bolt around near where the power steering tensioner pulley is

Lost me totally. lol
"Cam cover" in post #1, = ROCKER cover, or CAM BELT cover?

(If cam belt cover, take the pulley off - there's a bolt hidden behind it.)

Thanks for help and also apologies. I can see I have caused needless confusion by using term 'rear cam cover' instead of 'rear cam belt cover'. So I have to get the belt and pulley off also. Is this classed as difficult at all? Think I'll have another look for that bloody manual today but this house seems to have a black hole somewhere.

Basically it's a cam belt replacement job plus removing the cam pulleys and replacing the seals.

Difficult job? Definitely! Done it twice on the 3.5L Magna engine, first time was a major head scratcher and constant referral to the manual. Also some special tools needed.

Cam belt job has been described on this forum many times. Do a search.

Lol. My engish again. No, I meant removing the power steering belt and the tensioner swing arm.

Good news is I just found the manual. Where else but under a pile of crap on the back seat of my Nissan Pulsar? Looks like the black hole is me as I always strongly suspected. :)

Ok I see I have to remove the lower cover to access the the power steering tensioner mounting bolts. Hate this first time stuff and the feeling of going where I have never been before but love the knowledge and empowerment at the end of it. Now I have the manual I see I should have referred to it as the rear timing belt cover and that would have been clear to people. Once again sorry for the confusion and wasting your time. I very much appreciate your patience and help.

Jack the driver's side front wheel up, axle stand, remove wheel, remove splashguard. Slacken off both adjusters, remove both belts, remove both idlers.

There! Easy bit done.

Cool. I'll get right on it! :) In regard to the 5 Nm of torque applied to the tensioner pulley with the 'special tool' finding a torque wrench that will measure this low is near impossible or prohibitively expensive. So what sort of pressure do people generally apply to get around this? Also which manual is generally regarded as the best? I have the Haynes.

I turned mine a third of a turn after contact.

The proper electronic manual is best.

I use a 1/4" drive and the correct attachment to get the right belt tension. Don't really need the torque wrench, but the 2 fingered tool and 1/4" handle are needed. You lift up with one hand and feel the pin in the hydraulic tensioner, when you find the pin can slide in and out easily, you have the right tension. Then reach for your 1/2" torque wrench and tighten the centre bolt while holding the tensioner roller in place with the other hand. Then rotate the engine clockwise 2 full turns, line the marks up, and check if the pin still slides around easily.

If you are reusing the original hydraulic tensioner (check it for leaks) just use a pop rivet.

Lot of other steps before you get to this one though.

If someone can tell me how to insert a photo I have one of the cover showing the four bolt holes.