Hey guys - I swapped the standard T10 cluster bulbs to LEDs this afternoon & I was met with quite the surprise when I hooked it back up. Here's a video of it & me explaining a little more...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8tTRmB7gnrs


Help??

your needless need recalibrating. How you do accurately, Im not sure...

Last time mine was like this it was because I pulled the needless off. easiest way for me to have a reliable speedo was to replace the cluster

your needless need recalibrating. How you do accurately, Im not sure...

Last time mine was like this it was because I pulled the needless off. easiest way for me to have a reliable speedo was to replace the cluster

i didnt touch the speedo & taco needles though :/

how did you take the overlays off. didn't they go behind the needles.

how did you take the overlays off. didn't they go behind the needles.

ah yes you would be correct - my mistake.

So the big question is how do i fix it??

you can only guess now where the needles were. for fuel and temp tacho should sit around 700 rpm and zero the speedo, the car needs to be running and up to operating temp when fitting the needles back on to get them semi accurate or alternatively you can put another cluster in that's the easiest fix. there is a diy that explains how to do it i'll try find it.

this is the normal procedure .


Warm the car up to operating temp before removal and take a photo.

Remove cluster and go about what you plan on doing.

this is the bit people don't really do and stuff it up.

Before put the cluster back in DON'T put the needles back on yet.

1, Warm the car back up say idle for 15 minutes
2,place the cluster back in its spot
3, look at the photo and put in place the temp, the fuel and the rev SAME AS IT LOOKS IN PIC don't push to hard yet
4, To redo the speedo needle in a place where 2 cars can drive along side each other, same make EG: Magna with same size wheels and get the speedo reading place on the needle and its done. Go home remove he cluster and push the needles on firmly and then replace the clear cover and fit back into place

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71438&page=2

Its never going to be 100% accurate after needle removal might be just easier to replace the cluster.

Without using a recalibration device or having it done professionally, it will never be as accurate as before you remove the needles. I already asked about this a few years ago.

I'd opt for a cluster replacement.

Possibly could use a gps to set the speed.

Quite simple to fix.
Remove the cluster lens while the cluster is still in the dash and plugged in, gently remove the needles (if they're tight, slide a fork under) then switch the ignition to ON.
Speedo: gently put the needle back on with the needle slightly below the needle stop (so the tip of the needle is above the top left edge of zero). Gently left the tip of the needle over the needle stop.
Tacho: same deal except put it back on so the tip of the needle is resting on the bottom of the needle stop, then lift the tip of it over the needle stop.
It may take a few attempts to get it perfect, but it can easily be done. No need to go chasing a new cluster.
NOTE: The Ignition MUST be on while putting the needles back on.

I test my speedo accuracy using the speed alert at 60km/h on a quiet road. You want to aim it so the speed reads about 61km/h when the 60km/h alert beeps.

thanx for the help/info guys - this morning while removing the cluster I moved the steering wheel a little, it locked, & now the barrel is locked & i cant unlock it no matter how much i wiggle the key & steering wheel at the same time. Called magna wreck & they reckon the barrel has collapsed & i need a new one...

F#%k!!!!!

ok key/barrel issues sorted - used a spare key

needles on cluster temp fix - plugged all in & put key into accessory position & removed/reseated needles accordingly....will do for now until i get my blackout cluster :)

Thanx Tania

I did the same mistake by removing the needles while I was cleaning it but was lucky to get it fixed back. For tach, it was a hit and miss, trial and error option but for the speedo, I used my GPS speed to calibrate it perfectly.

I managed to put the needles back on roughly where they should be and was only a few hundred revs off on the tacho. As for the speedo he hasn't let me know how i went but i don't think I did to bad considering the car was parked when I did it this morning. As for the the steering being locked up it wasn't the barrel as the wrecker's said it was < surprise surprise > I noticed the main key used for the car was actually well worn and that was the main problem there

I managed to put the needles back on roughly where they should be and was only a few hundred revs off on the tacho. As for the speedo he hasn't let me know how i went but i don't think I did to bad considering the car was parked when I did it this morning. As for the the steering being locked up it wasn't the barrel as the wrecker's said it was < surprise surprise > I noticed the main key used for the car was actually well worn and that was the main problem there

Supergirl to the rescue. I am guessing the temp and fuel guage needles are not correctly seated yet? If the fuel guage needle has not been done then just fill it up to the top and then position the needle to where the F is. I noticed on mine that the needle is actually above F and takes about 50kms of driving to be at F (this is filling up an extra 1.5L after the initial pump stop).

I did the same mistake by removing the needles while I was cleaning it but was lucky to get it fixed back. For tach, it was a hit and miss, trial and error option but for the speedo, I used my GPS speed to calibrate it perfectly.

the speedo is now bang on - all i did was set the speed alarm to 60 & as soon as it beeped i hit the cruise control ;)

Another way to test the accuracy is with cruise control. Cruise isnt active until 40km so maintain 40km and flick cruise on.

Thats another way that was suggested to try get it working