I had my front brakes machined and new pads, you could see the hot spots on the rotors when I pulled them off, I also checked the rear -looked OK but I still have a shudder under braking. Should I get the rear done or have I put something back together wrong?

Mills On Wheels

Did you remove the discs? You will need to perform hub to disc indexing if you didn't note its original position and fit them back the same. This uses a dial gauge to match the highest spot on the disc mounting surface to the lowest spot on the wheel hub.

Yes I did remove the rotors and I did'nt notice apart from left to right where they came off,I ask the mechanic if it mattered and he said no just put them on and bolt them up. Tomorrow I'm taking them back off and see if I can see which way they were aligned on the hubs.
Also I went to Supercheap Autos to get a new set of plugs for my 100,000klm service, not only did they not have Platinum but they did'nt have the normal ones in NGK or BOSCH!! Do I have to get plugs from Mitsi?
He told me if he could get the platinum they would be $64.00 for 3!! Is this normal?

Personally i would of got all 4 done, regreased bearings, cleaned out calipers and replaced all 4 pads to Bendix Metal King Plus or even better Bendix Ultimate. Then you would almost be certain to cure brake shudder...

But after removing discs from first gen magna's right up to TJ models i never replaced discs in the exact same place they were in and i never had any trouble.

I had my front brakes machined and new pads, you could see the hot spots on the rotors when I pulled them off, I also checked the rear -looked OK but I still have a shudder under braking. Should I get the rear done or have I put something back together wrong?

Mills On Wheels
I recently replaced all four rotors on my magna, and the old rear discs were also warped in addition to the fronts. I would recommend doing all four wheels.

Price for the plugs sounds about right. The platinum plugs are for the rear bank under the t/b and plenum, if you have a look through your regular service in your manual you will see that the fronts are changed more often than the rear, (plat plugs have longer life in theory) Im assuming this was to save maintenance costs by avoiding having to remove most of your induction every service. Have a look for some NGK iridium plugs, good quality.

could the drum brakes contribute to the rears getting DTV? I've never touched my rear pads since I got my car, it's been ages, I check it all the time, and it never seems to wear! I wonder if it's even being used? lol...

I used to have DTV at the front, but after changing to Metal king plus, it's kinda grind the high bits level, it's still got some shudder, but not as bad as before. I also think a brake bleed could help, actually, I think everyone should use Braided brake lines! a few hundred dollars though.

Do 3rd gens even have drum brakes??? Drum brakes technically can't be affected by DTV as there is no disc, but you can still experience an out of round condition with the inside of the drum which requires machining or replacement.

the 3rd gen's have drums are hand brakes! and we all pull our hand brakes up high when we park don't we? well most people do, I do. haha...

TEK, where did you get your braided lines! ?

In that case then no, the drum handbrake is not going to cause DTV.

"Have a look for some NGK iridium plugs, good quality."

Are Irridium long life like Platinum? Or are they only good for the front?
Mills On Wheels

from NGK website, Iridium with 0.4mm tip is good for 60,000km to 100,000km.
0.6mm tip is good for 160,000km

the Magna one is 0.4mm tip at 1.1mm gap

is it actually possible to do the spark plugs on myself? cos the rear bank looks pretty hard to get

I don't really like popcorn chicken that much, although hot n spicy pieces of thigh chicken dipped in their nugget sauce is nice.

I don't really like popcorn chicken that much, although hot n spicy pieces of thigh chicken dipped in their nugget sauce is nice.

haha... what are you on about Jimmy? I like popcorn chicken btw. LOL....


is it actually possible to do the spark plugs on myself? cos the rear bank looks pretty hard to get

it's not hard, involves removal of intake plenum,
<< involves unbolting 4 bolts from T/B, 5 bolts and 2 nuts in front of the intake plenum, 2 bolts on the rear of the intake plenum, after that, lift it up vertically try not to snap the guide bolts sticking out from the intake manifold >>

once the intake plenum is off, the rear bank of spark plugs can be easily removed as same as removing front spark plugs.

Refer to workshop manual for appropriate torque for putting the plenum bolts and nuts back on.

if you don't rush, it should take around 2 hrs. if you rush, maybe 30min.

have fun, it's good to be able to do these things yourself, you'll get much satifaction out of it.

Tools you'll need; sockets 12, 13, 14mm, Rachet, torque wrench or 1/2 turn after you've snip it up. Gaskets if you're really worried about it, I just cleaned my and bolted it back up. you'll also need the extension socket to get the spark plug out, the spark plug socket is the smaller size of the two sizes, i think it's 5/8", it's definately not 15/16".

While you're at it, you might as well replace the spark plug leads.

haha... what are you on about Jimmy? I like popcorn chicken btw. LOL....



it's not hard, involves removal of intake plenum,
<< involves unbolting 4 bolts from T/B, 5 bolts and 2 nuts in front of the intake plenum, 2 bolts on the rear of the intake plenum, after that, lift it up vertically try not to snap the guide bolts sticking out from the intake manifold >>

once the intake plenum is off, the rear bank of spark plugs can be easily removed as same as removing front spark plugs.

Refer to workshop manual for appropriate torque for putting the plenum bolts and nuts back on.

if you don't rush, it should take around 2 hrs. if you rush, maybe 30min.

have fun, it's good to be able to do these things yourself, you'll get much satifaction out of it.

Tools you'll need; sockets 12, 13, 14mm, Rachet, torque wrench or 1/2 turn after you've snip it up. Gaskets if you're really worried about it, I just cleaned my and bolted it back up. you'll also need the extension socket to get the spark plug out, the spark plug socket is the smaller size of the two sizes, i think it's 5/8", it's definately not 15/16".

While you're at it, you might as well replace the spark plug leads.


arh.... so complicated, so scared bout breaking something... where can i get the workshop manual? is there a PDF version around for dl? i've only done spark plugs on inline 4's, so much easier... hahahaha

from NGK website, Iridium with 0.4mm tip is good for 60,000km to 100,000km.
0.6mm tip is good for 160,000km

the Magna one is 0.4mm tip at 1.1mm gap

What is the plug number please, I've found some irridiums for $17.50 each is that good?
Also getting back to my original problem- brake shudder after machining, I got the rears machined as someone suggested and bingo no shudders sooo.... anyone getting their brakes done spend the little bit extra and get the lot done, took my rotors off and got them done for $16.00 for both while I waited,( heh heh helps if an old mate has the equiptment).

the Number is BKR6EIX - 11 http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7132&highlight=Iridium

have fun!

What is the plug number please, I've found some irridiums for $17.50 each is that good?
Also getting back to my original problem- brake shudder after machining, I got the rears machined as someone suggested and bingo no shudders sooo.... anyone getting their brakes done spend the little bit extra and get the lot done, took my rotors off and got them done for $16.00 for both while I waited,( heh heh helps if an old mate has the equiptment).

Thanks for the info in regards to the rear brake discs. I suspected that the rears were doing something weird, because it would only shudder when I have at least 30% brake, if i slightly touch the brake pedal, it doesn't shudder, indicating that the fronts are probably not too badly warped, but yeah, thanks Mills on Wheels.