Hi Guys.

Just a quick query, is there any way to visually check if a timing belt is worn or not?

Obviously things like fraying or cracking are tell tale signs, but if a belt looks good, and is tight (Using the "No more than a 90 degree twist by hand method), is there any other way of knowing when a belt is at the end of its life?

Some pictures for your perusal if you please..... :D

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858465/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858483/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858497/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858507/in/photostream

Answers on a Postcard and send it to ......

Sorry trying again....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858465.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858483.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858497.jpg

http://www.flickr.com/photos/21291404@N05/8516858507.jpg

Don't bother with the pictures, looking at it tells you very little. lol

Don't twist the thing, stressing the fibres inside the belt is the most common source of failure! With the motor off, tightness is absolutely no indication if the belt has stretched, anyway, due to the way the hydraulic tensioner works. (And these belts don't stretch. Not at all.)

Fraying on the edges, missing teeth are bad signs - but generally, there is no sign at all that a belt is about to fail. They will let go all at once, usually at the moment of highest load, ie when you hit the starter.
You can get some idea of how old a belt is, by looking at how clear the writing on it.

In short, the easiest way to tell if a belt needs changing, is to see how long it has been on the car. 5 years or 100,000 km is the limit. No guarantees after that. (Son is running around in a Lancer with a 140,000 km 9 year old belt - the fool!)

There is writing on the outside of the belt when it is new. When that writing is still there the timing belt is usually still good. Not very comprehensive but a good little indicator.

Its not a be all and end all indicator, I had my belt replaced 30k ago and the writing is more or less gone.
Unless its cracked, frayed or has a sticker somewhere in the engine bay, documentation or notation in the service book, theres no knowing when the belt has or hasn't been done

If you have any doubts about how long its been on there, change it.
As said above, there is no real way of knowing it's almost at failure point, until it snaps.
You're far better off forking out and getting it replaced now, than needing a far more expensive engine rebuild later if it fails catastrophically.
I bought my car at 70k and the first thing I did was get the timing belt replaced, even though I COULD of had another 30/40/50 thousand plus K's before it needed replacing.
Unless you know it's been done relatively recently, it's not worth the risk IMO.

Just do it as per recommedations - Don't screw around with this because if it snaps, you can kiss your engine goodbye - granted it would be a good excuse to drop a 6g75 into it :)

If you're in doubt, just book it in to get done.

Writing on the belt means nothing, I have seen some belts where the writing is clear on belts with over 100k on them

If in doubt change it

Okee Dokee so loud and clear, change the belt!

Cheers, got a full kit coming so going to down a couple of big brave pills and DIY it, I have a manual.

Done a belt years ago in a carpark on a 2 litre 16 DOHC motor, that went well, never tackled a V motor but, same process, timing marks, cam positions locked, belt on keeping it tense whilst fitting etc....

What could go wrong .... Mwa hahahaaaaaa

What could go wrong .... Mwa hahahaaaaaa

Want a list? lol

Lol lots of shit can go pear shaped when changing a timing belt.

Lol lots of shit can go pear shaped when changing a timing belt.

If you are using shit and pears you are doing it wrong!

Use the right tools and read - then follow - the manual instructions you can't go wrong.

I changed mine with 125,000km on it and it still looked brand new. Distance is the best method to determine when to change.

I changed mine with 125,000km on it and it still looked brand new. Distance is the best method to determine when to change.

Not necessarily, a low kilometre timing belt older than five years has a similar likelihood of failure as a >100k belt less than 5 years old. Rubber perishes both over time and with use.

Distance and time both play important factors.

I follow this rule:5 years or 100,000 km.
For every 20,000 km below the limit, I add one year eg
80,000 km or 6 years
60,000 km or 7 years
40,000 km or 8 years
20,000 km or 9 years

Rough rule of thumb anyway.
Wife's Lancer doesn't get used much, changed the belt at 30,000 km after 8.5 years.

Still, once you have done a Magna or Lancer belt (Lancer is so much easier), its a doddle and I might just stick to the 5 year limit to be safe.

Hahaha you guys crack me up..... Thanks for that.

I just was chatting to a bloke who I get parts from, he reckons he assisted with a belt change on his Magna 3rd gen..... He said and I quote....

" It's nowhere near that simple - you need to drop and raise (the motor) each time you touch the belt, put the spring on the tensioner etc - the gap is only around 2 inches and getting a socket in there is hard enough too. What a mess....."

Ho hummmmm

Spring on tensioner? WTF? No spring anywhere, is he talking second gen V6 perhaps? (I've done both)

Like I said before, you need to read/comprehend/follow the manual details. Much better than listening to someone who says "Yeah, I watched someone else do this job years ago."

Just need to support the engine under the sump while the engine mount is off.
The rest of his story sounds about right though. lol

The belt I changed at 125,000km was also 15 years old and as I said it was as good as new with no visible signs of wear or damage. The first I have ever heard of a time limit for timing belts was on this forum and I have never seen it mentioned for any other brand of vehicle.

The belt I changed at 125,000km was also 15 years old and as I said it was as good as new with no visible signs of wear or damage. The first I have ever heard of a time limit for timing belts was on this forum and I have never seen it mentioned for any other brand of vehicle.

If your vehicle has a service/maintenance booklet, I recommend having a gander at it. Almost any maintenance schedule/service book for a vehicle with a timing belt will show something similar to 'replace at # km/ # years (whichever comes first)', or a timing belt due at a service in which a maximum distance/timeframe is specified.
Hyundais have it, Suzukis have it, Holdens have it, Mitsubishis have it, Toyotas have it, Volvos have it, Alfa Romeos have it... you'll find 99% of vehicles on the road that have timing belts have some sort of timeframe in which a timing belt is due to be replaced - only the distance and time varies from model to model. For example, most Hyundais, Mitsubishis and some Toyotas are 5 years/100k; some Toyotas are 10 years/150k; Korean-sourced Holdens and some Alfas are 3 years/60k, newer Volvos are 10 years/160k.

The belt I changed at 125,000km was also 15 years old and as I said it was as good as new with no visible signs of wear or damage. The first I have ever heard of a time limit for timing belts was on this forum and I have never seen it mentioned for any other brand of vehicle.

As good as new EXTERNALLY, doesn't count really - it's the reinforcing fibres inside the belt that are important.
As for never seeing the time limit, refer to any service manual. In this case, what you don't know can come back to bite you.

So the million dollar question is..... Does anyone have the "Special" tools for the belt change, or is it easy to fab up something?

I remember IO used to chuck a couple of short extension bars from a socket set into a suitable pulley hole on each cam sprocket to keep then in place for the timing marks......

I've got one. eBay or just search google by part number. Used two tight fitting drill bits with the shanks in the holes and a screwdriver between them to get the belt tightened before the tool arrived in the post the first time I did it - much easier the second belt change with the tool. lol

Front cam is ok and doesn't move, but to get the belt on the rear cam gear with the belt tight can sometimes make that gear jump out of line. 17 mm spanner to hold it in place.

part number = MD998767

I've got one. eBay or just search google by part number. Used two tight fitting drill bits with the shanks in the holes and a screwdriver between them to get the belt tightened before the tool arrived in the post the first time I did it - much easier the second belt change with the tool. lol

Front cam is ok and doesn't move, but to get the belt on the rear cam gear with the belt tight can sometimes make that gear jump out of line. 17 mm spanner to hold it in place.

part number = MD998767

Many thanks mate, yup I also recall using drill bits as suitable "Dowels"!

The tool isn't 100% necessary. The cam sprockets don't like moving if they don't have to. Sometimes they budge out of place but it is easily corrected.

Buy the tool on ebay for $20 to $30, generally from the US. Also look on ebay for a bicycle torque wrench. For around $50 to $60 you can buy a 1/4" drive deflecting beam with pointer type torque wrench with about 8nm max reading and I think the tensioner pulley requires 4nm. The pin tool is also 1/4" drive. With this set up you can tension the pulley in a few seconds.

Buy the tool on ebay for $20 to $30, generally from the US. Also look on ebay for a bicycle torque wrench. For around $50 to $60 you can buy a 1/4" drive deflecting beam with pointer type torque wrench with about 8nm max reading and I think the tensioner pulley requires 4nm. The pin tool is also 1/4" drive. With this set up you can tension the pulley in a few seconds.

That sounds good, I do have a torque wrench, but the last time I built a motorbike engine with an older torque wrench that I owned, I set it to 10Nm and torqued up the 8mm camshaft cap bolt, stipped the thread.... Bugger!

Makes me nervous now when using a larger torque wrench on smaller bolts......

I got a 1/2 drive and a 1/4 drive for this exact reason. Kincrome items at Bunnings go for about $80. Worthy investment.

I got a 1/2 drive and a 1/4 drive for this exact reason. Kincrome items at Bunnings go for about $80. Worthy investment.

Hey! I was going to say that! lol
EXCEPT check eBay, $40 or so each for half and quarter inch drive torque wrenches.

I got a 1/2 drive and a 1/4 drive for this exact reason. Kincrome items at Bunnings go for about $80. Worthy investment.


Hey! I was going to say that! lol
EXCEPT check eBay, $40 or so each for half and quarter inch drive torque wrenches.


And Dreggzy takes it by about 1 hour! Lol

Thanks guys, almost blown my budget now, had an altercation with the other half 2 days ago about the bank account dropping dollars, had to explain to her I have "projected income from parts and old car" coming back in!

If she sees another new tool sitting amongst the various other bits I reckon I will need a Magna WAGON so I sleep in it......

Oh and my Dayco full Timing belt kit has arrived from the good ol' U.S of A.....

Bricking it now, I either have to bite the bullet and do the job, like on a Friday Evening, so I have the weekend to fix a stuff up hopefully, or farm the job off to my Father in Law, he is a mechanic!

But I feel the need to do it myself, a big job that I would feel good about when done.

Time to stop the talk, and walk the walk. A man must do what a man must do. Time to bite the bullet. Be a man, don't wimp out.

Can't think of any more cliches right now. lol

Good luck.

As mentioned, visible signs of imminent failure are usually nil. Just did the belt on my 2006 build Megane at 25,000kms. Belt looked pretty good as you would expect at those kms, but with 7 years behind it I had no faith in it!!!

Another thing with high years/low kms is the water pump - mine had started to weep, simply from spending so much time parked. Its seal is another rubber part subject to age as well as kms.

Well in preparation of doing the belt swap, I found this on an other Mitsubishi forum, thanks to whoever posted it in the first place :o)

Diamante Timing Belt replacement detailed step by step guide

1. Set up sorting bins, labels and pen for tagging hoses and storing nuts and bolts.

2. Remove the negative battery cable and protect the post from the cable contacting it.

3. Remove the engine top cover and set it aside.

4. Take digital pictures all around engine. Keep camera handy for additional pictures.

5. Chock the rear wheels and put the right front side of the car on a jack stand.

6. Remove the right front tire.

7. Remove the splash shield from the right front wheel well.

8. Place a piece of thick cardboard around the CVJ boots to protect them from tools.

9. Remove the tension from the AC/Alt drive belt by loosening the pulley nut and turning the adjusting bolt, and then remove the AC/Alt drive belt.

10. Remove the AC/Alt tensioner pulley centre nut and set the nut and pulley aside.

11. Remove the tension from the power steering belt by loosening the adjuster pivot bolt and adjusting nut, then turn the adjusting bolt CCW to loosen the belt (it will take many turns). Then remove the adjuster by taking out the pivot bolt and the adjusting nut. Set the adjuster aside with the pivot bolt, then put the nut and washer back on the adjuster bolt to keep it from falling backwards out through the slot. With the adjuster removed, you can then remove the power steering belt.

12. Note that during the your work you might be tempted remove the clamp that holds the AC refrigerant tubing to the fender wall, but doing so and moving the tubing will put undue stress on the connection to the evaporator at the firewall. It is best to leave the tubing in place and work around it.

13. Remove the timing belt upper cover bolts, taking care to document the size and placement of each bolt and the wiring clamps that are held by some of them. Remove the front cover. The rear one will require removing the bottom cover first.

14. With an impact wrench and a 22mm impact socket, loosen the crankshaft bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley. If the bolt doesn’t come lose, try tapping on the end of the bolt with a hammer. If that doesn’t break it free, try running the impact wrench a few seconds in tighten mode, then longer in loosen mode. Alternate these steps until the bolt comes loose.

15. Note where the crankshaft sensor wiring is routed and enters the timing belt cover, then remove the lower timing belt cover and the rear upper cover.

16. Remove the crankshaft sensor and set it up on top of the engine, out of the way. Put its two bolts and washers aside.

17. Temporarily screw into the crankshaft: the crankshaft bolt, the thick washer and two ¼” thick plastic washers from a seal driver set, or other spacers on hand, small enough to clear the roll pin. Tighten the crankshaft bolt, then bump it tighter to get it tight enough to be able to turn the crankshaft counter clockwise. If you can’t get it tight enough for counter clockwise rotation, just turn the crankshaft clockwise just under two full turns when setting it before top centre (BTC).

18. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to line up the crankshaft timing mark with the fixed timing mark while at the same time lining up the two camshaft sprocket timing marks. Look carefully, straight on to eliminate parallelism; to be sure all three sprockets are lined up with their marks. It may take up to two turns of the crankshaft to get all marks to line up.

19. Carefully back the crankshaft counter clockwise until it is three teeth away from the mark. This is three teeth BTC and will put the #1 piston lower and prevent a valve from hitting it should a camshaft turn while the belt is off.

20. Plan the following timing belt work where you can do it all at one time to minimize the time the oil pan is holding up the engine.

21. Measure and record engine height relative to the body so you can set it back later.

22. Place floor jack under the oil pan with a wood block and rubber sheet to protect the surface and prevent slippage, and jack up the engine a bit to take the weight off of the motor mount.

23. Remove the two bolts from the windshield washer reservoir, lift up the reservoir and unplug the motor connector and remove the hose from the first three clips, then set the reservoir on top of the front rocker cover, leaning against the air intake duct.

24. With the reservoir out of the way, with a breaker bar remove the 17mm bolt that goes through the round part of the top engine support bracket.

25. With a breaker bar and a deep socket remove the two 17mm nuts and one 17mm bolt on top of the top engine support bracket.

26. Remove the cruise control motor mounting bolts and lift the assembly up while you take out the top part of the engine support bracket. Set the top engine support bracket aside with its bolts. If the rubber pads come off, note that the arrows face away from the engine.

27. Temporarily place the cruise control motor back in place.

28. Remove the 12mm bolt that holds the alternator wiring harness support bracket.

29. Remove the 14mm bolt in the engine support bracket that holds the rear of the alternator. Use an extra log box wrench to break the nut loose, then use a Gear wrench to remove it. Push the bolt out and set the bolt, nut and washers aside.

30. Remove the front alternator mounting bolt and set it nearby for reinsertion. Using long screwdrivers and/or long socket extensions as a pry bar, pry the between the alternator mounting tabs and the engine support bracket to move the alternator forward from the engine to disengage it from the engine support bracket. It may not move downwards due to interference with the compressor support bracket underneath, so try to move it forward only. It may take alternating pries to move each side a bit at a time. Hold the alternator with one hand as it gets set to come loose from the rear mount so it doesn’t drop. As it comes loose, set the alternator on top of the compressor in a position that will allow you access to the bolt that goes from the compressor support bracket into the front of the engine support bracket.

31. Remove the 14mm bolt that goes from the compressor support bracket into the front side of the engine support bracket, under where the alternator bolt went through. This bolt does not show up in the service manual drawings.
32. Lift the alternator back up and temporarily support it by putting the bolt back in the front alternator mount.

33. Loosen the four 14mm bolts that hold the engine support bracket to the block. If they are too tight, use a flat box wrench with a piece of pipe over the end for leverage. Be careful, these bolts screw into the block. Once loosened, the bolts will not come fully out of the bracket due to tight clearance. To remove them, first lower the engine as far as it will go to get the bottom two bolts out. You will have to manoeuvre the bracket around to get each bolt to where it will clear the frame. Note that the bottom front bolt is shorter than the three other bolts. Next, jack the engine up until you can get the two upper bolts out. You will have to jack it up quite a bit, and anytime you do so check around for any interference between parts of the engine and parts of the body. If you have problems getting the bolts past the power steering lower tubing, you will have to remove the bolts that hold the clamps, and then remove power steering reservoir mounting nuts and bolts so you can move the reservoir to move that tube.

34. After you remove all the engine support bracket bolts, leave the engine raised and move the bracket around and rotate it as necessary to get it out through the top. It will come out in the area forward of the motor mount. If you still can’t get it out, first remove the tension on the timing belt per the following step, and then remove the timing belt from under the bracket. This will give you more working room to remove the bracket. Once you have the bracket out, set it aside with its bolts, noting which goes where.

35. Lower the engine back to the original height to take any strain off the exhaust pipes.

36. Put two clothespins on the rear camshaft sprocket to keep the timing belt from slipping off it and loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley bolt to release the tension on the timing belt. Be careful, the rear camshaft sprocket will have valve spring tension on it and will spin ¼ turn counter clockwise when the timing belt is loosened or removed from it. Hold the rear camshaft sprocket in place with a breaker bar on the pulley nut and release the tension after you have removed the clothespins and taken the belt off the pulley.

37. Take the timing belt off the remaining pulleys and out from the engine.

38. From this point on you will be torqueing bolts. To keep from double checking, keep a log or diagram of each bolt as you torque it, noting the setting you used, or simply circle the torque reading in these instructions to indicate it was done.

39. Remove the timing belt idler pulley and replace it with the new one. Torque the bolt to 33 ft. lbs.

40. Remove the automatic tensioner bolts and set the tensioner and its bolts aside.

41. Remove the tensioner pulley bolt and set the pulley, bolt and washer aside.

42. Clean any gunk from within and around the timing belt area.

43. Inspect the area below each camshaft. If oil is present you will have to replace the seals. Otherwise jump to the step for installing the tensioner pulley.

44. Wrap the old timing belt around the front camshaft sprocket and secure the loose ends with a Vice Grip. Run the other end of the timing belt over the rear camshaft sprocket and secure it with a Vice Grip, taking up the slack between the sprockets with the section of timing belt between them. If you have a tool to hold the sprockets in place, use that tool instead. The idea is to keep the sprockets from turning while you remove both camshaft bolts and sprockets. Remove the bolt from each sprocket, then remove the timing belt holding setup until you reinstall the sprockets.

45. Note the installed depth of the rear camshaft oil seal and remove it carefully with a screwdriver or seal remover by cutting a piece of the rubber lip to gain access to the metal lip. Be very careful to not scratch the camshaft surface. Placing masking tape on the camshaft surface may help, just remove it when you move the seal past it. Lubricate the rubber lip of the new seal and press it into place using a 1.5 inch socket as a seal driver. Set the new seal is at the same depth as the original one.

46. Use the same procedure to replace the front camshaft oil seal.

47. Reinstall the camshaft sprockets, apply the timing belt holding setup again and torque the bolts to 65 ft. lbs.

48. Inspect the water pump for leakage or pulley play. If evidence is found, replace it per the service manual procedure.

49. Install the new tensioner pulley, leaving its bolt and washer slightly loose.

50. Install the new automatic tensioner, leaving the wire in place for now. Put thread locker on the bolt threads and tighten the bolts to 17 ft. lbs.

51. Raise the engine back up again.

52. Work the engine support bracket back down in place, putting the top bolts back in as you go. Be careful to not scratch the water pump pulley.

53. Lower the engine as far as it will go and put the lower engine support bracket bolts back in place.

54. Work the engine support bracket back into place over the idler pulley. Don’t begin to screw in the engine support bracket bolts yet.

55. Raise the engine to gain clearance to move the engine support up and away from the block and to slide the top bolt out when fishing the new timing belt in place.

56. Verify that the crankshaft timing mark is still three teeth before the fixed timing mark.

57. Verify that the front camshaft sprocket timing mark is three teeth to the left of the fixed timing mark. Because of cam tension, particularly if the spark plugs are in, you may only be able to get it to stay at 1 tooth BTC. You can take this into account when installing the timing belt per the step below.

58. Install the new timing belt by carefully fishing it around the water pump pulley, up around the front cam pulley, then back down around the engine support bracket and its bolts until it is properly running up through the support bracket. Be careful to not scratch the belt. Verify that the timing belt is properly threaded through the engine support bracket and down around the water pump idler. The toothed side of the belt always goes on a sprocket. The smooth side always goes against an idler.

59. Slide the top bolt back into the engine support bracket and carefully set the bracket back into place. Finger tighten the four engine support bracket bolts to hold it in place.

60. Lower the engine back to the original height.

61. Have four clothespins handy. Set the new timing belt over the crankshaft sprocket, then pull the section that comes up from around the idler pulley to remove any slack and then fit it over the front camshaft pulley. Be sure that the timing marks on both the crankshaft and front camshaft spockets are still lined up three teeth BTC. If the front camshaft sprocket had to be set to less teeth BTC, turn it to three teeth BTC with a wrench on the end bolt, hold it there and fit the timing belt over it, then use two clothespins to hold the belt in place on the sprocket before you remove the wrench. The front camshaft sprocket may move back a few teeth, so make note of where it is.

62. Verify that the belt is properly threaded from the front camshaft sprocket down and around the water pump pulley and up to the rear sprocket. Use a pull bar and socket to turn and hold the rear camshaft sprocket to set its timing mark to the exact same setting as the front camshaft sprocket, and then thread the timing belt over the sprocket taking up any slack between the sprockets. Before you let go of the pull bar, clip two clothespins on the rear camshaft sprocket to hold the timing belt in place. As you let go, the tension of the rear camshaft sprocket should pull both sprockets to where they are three teeth BTC, which should be the same as the crankshaft sprocket.

63. Thread the timing belt over the right side of the tensioner pulley.

64. Firmly press the tensioner pulley against the belt by rotating it counter clockwise. Make sure the tensioner arm is pressed against the automatic tensioner, and then temporarily tighten the centre bolt to hold the tensioner pulley in place. You want to make sure that the timing belt is tight enough that it will not slip over a sprocket tooth.

65. Remove the clothespins from each camshaft sprocket and turn the crankshaft clockwise three teeth so the timing mark is lined up.

66. Check all three sprockets for timing mark alignment. They need to all be exactly at the timing mark. Correct as necessary.

67. Turn the crankshaft a quarter of a turn counter clockwise, then back clockwise to verify that all three timing marks line back up. If you can’t turn it counter clockwise, rotate it two turns clockwise to line up the timing marks.

68. Loosen the tensioner pulley mounting bolt a bit until the tensioner pulley rotates freely. Set a ratchet type torque wrench on the14mm mounting bolt of the tensioner pulley. Mount the tensioner pulley tool on the tensioner pulley and use a ¼” drive 6” long extension on a small click-type torque wrench to torque it counter clockwise to 3.3 ft. lbs. (39.6 in. lbs.) while the tensioner pulley bracket is firm against the automatic tensioner protrusion. You might have to lower the engine a bit to gain clearance. Once the small torque wrench has clicked, hold its handle exactly at that point, but no further, to keep the tensioner pulley from turning and tighten the tensioner bolt to 36 ft. lbs. Remove the tools from the tensioner pulley.

69. Rotate the crankshaft two turns clockwise and let it stand for five minutes.

70. Check to see if the metal wire inserted in the auto tensioner can be moved without any resistance. If the wire can be moved without any resistance, it means that the belt is correctly tensioned, so remove the wire. Check to see that projection of the rod from the tensioner is within .150 to .196 inches. If the metal wire cannot be removed easily, then repeat the previous two steps until it can.

71. With a low-profile torque wrench and a short 14mm socket, torque the engine support bracket bolts into the block to 33 ft. lbs. in a counter clockwise pattern starting with the bolt at the top.

72. Hold the alternator with one hand while you remove the bolt that holds the front of the alternator. Set the alternator on top of the compressor in a position that will allow you access to the bolt that goes from the compressor support bracket into the front side of the engine support bracket.

73. Reinstall the bolt that goes from the compressor support bracket into the front side of the engine support bracket and torque it to 37 ft. lbs.

74. While supporting it with your hands, slide the alternator rear bracket over its rear mount. It may not go easily up from the bottom due to interference with the compressor mounting bracket below, so work straight back or down a bit from the top. If it won’t go easily over the rear mount, support the front mount with a loop of wire so you can have your hands free to apply more force and jiggling to line it up. Once the rear bracket is over the mount, slide it so the front mount lines up and insert the mounting bolt but don’t tighten it yet. Then line up the bolt holes of the rear mount and reinstall the rear alternator bracket bolt from the manifold side, torqueing the nut to 33 ft. lbs. Tighten the front alternator support bolt to 16 ft. lbs.

75. Reinstall the two clips that hold the power steering cooling lines to the right fender, tightening their bolts to 9 ft. lbs. Reinstall the power steering reservoir and tighten the bolts and nut to 15 ft. lbs.

76. Reinstall the 12mm alternator harness support bracket bolt and tighten to 9 ft. lbs.

77. Reinstall any other tubing clamp brackets that you may have removed. Tighten the 12mm bolts to 9ft. lbs.

78. Lift the cruise control motor out of the way and fit the upper engine support bracket onto the lower bracket bolts and down into its mount, making sure that the rubber sides are properly placed with the arrows facing away from the engine. Raise or lower the engine as needed to get the upper engine support bracket to line up with the lower engine support bracket.


79. Continue to adjust the engine height to get the hole in the engine mount to line up, then reinstall the bolt that goes through the centre and torque it to 80 ft. lbs.

80. Torque the two nuts and one bolt between the upper and lower engine support brackets to 80 ft. lbs.

81. Lower and remove the jack from under the oil pan.

82. Reinstall the cruise control motor and tighten its three bolts. Verify that the little air tube hasn’t come off of the side facing the front of the car.

83. Go over all bolts and check your notes to be sure you set their torque properly.

84. Check all timing marks and belt routing to be sure they are correct.

85. Reinstall the crankshaft sensor, with the wire routed as before. Be careful to not run the wire over the windshield washer tube going to the reservoir that is still sitting on the engine. Carefully install the crankshaft sensor so the sensor blade behind the crankshaft sprocket goes through it, and then tighten the bolts to 7 ft. lbs.

86. Fit the two upper and the lower timing belt covers in place to get them to mesh. Be careful when putting the rear upper cover in place that its protruded edge doesn’t scrape against the timing belt. Check the crankshaft sensor wire comes out at the correct place. Reinstall all timing belt cover bolts, torqueing the 10mm bolts to 8 ft. lbs. and the 12mm bolts to 10 ft lbs. Make sure to include any cable clamps that were held in place by the bolts.

87. Reinstall the washer reservoir, first securing the water tubing under the clips and reconnecting the motor connector and then hand tighten the two bolts.

88. Remove the crankshaft bolt and washers and reinstall the crankshaft pulley, being very careful to fully insert the roll pin in the hole so you don’t crush it. Put the bolt back in with the metal washer, making sure the washer is facing the right way. Torque it to 134 ft. lbs. To hold the pulley while torqueing, wrap the old serpentine belt around the pulley and use a small Vice Grip to hold the belt around the pulley. Then press the rest of the belt together and use a Vice Grip C-Clamp to secure it to the lower control arm. Put a second Vice Grip on the loose end of the belt as a precaution. Be careful when torqueing, if the pulley slips loose you can lunge forward and strike a part of the car.

89. Install a new power steering belt without the adjuster in place. Make sure the ribs are properly seated in the pulleys. It fits flush against the side of the larger section of the crankshaft pulley and is cantered on the other pulleys. Remove the nut from the adjuster bolt and reinstall the adjuster, but don’t fully tighten the nut and bolt yet. The large washer goes behind the adjuster. Turn the adjusting bolt clockwise to tighten the belt to 160 pounds measured with a KrikIt Belt Tension Gauge. Then, tighten the adjuster nut to 30 ft. lbs. and the adjuster bolt to 30 ft. lbs.

90. Reinstall the AC/Alt belt tensioner with thread lock on its nut threads, but don’t tighten its nut yet. Install a new AC/Alt belt and adjust the tension to 200 pounds by turning the adjusting bolt. Then, tighten the tensioner pulley nut to 30 ft lbs.

91. Remove the cardboard protecting the CVJ boots.

92. Remove any tools you may have left under the hood or on body parts underneath.

93. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

94. Start the engine and check for proper operation and unusual noises, then turn it off.

95. Reinstall the splash shield.

96. Reinstall the right front wheel, torqueing the lug nuts to 40 ft. lbs., then take the car off the jack stand and torque the wheel lug nuts to 80 ft. lbs. Remember to remove the lug nut key.

97. Using pictures check all hoses, connectors, cable connections and routing. Carefully check all around the engine bay for any loose hoses, connectors, tools, etc.

98. Reinstall the engine top cover.

99. Check all around car for any parts that you may have left under it.

100. Remove any wheel chocks.

101. Road test the car.

Yes. Nice.

Instructions make sense if you have done this job previously. For someone who hasn't, not so much.
Not too sure about holding the crank pulley with an old belt while doing up the bolt, tried that and didn't work.

Read the instructions in the manual as well. Pictures there are worth a trillion words!

Yes. Nice.

Instructions make sense if you have done this job previously. For someone who hasn't, not so much.
Not too sure about holding the crank pulley with an old belt while doing up the bolt, tried that and didn't work.

Read the instructions in the manual as well. Pictures there are worth a trillion words!

Yeah, the manual with piccies trumps text only every time!

Quick question, does anyone use thread locker on their bolts, even if the manual does not specify?

Or does the fact that the bolt in question is torqued to the required value mean it will always hold?

Paranoid about crap falling off after I complete the job..... :eek2:

No crap will fall off. Done this job twice now and everything has come up quite nicely. Pay attention to torque settings and the such and you will be fine. Leave plenty of time to get everything done properly.

My most important tip. Have somewhere comfortable to sit and have a drink nearby. I know this sounds like a bullshit tip but once you get started on this, you really do need to finish it in the same sitting and the job can take upwards of 4 hours. It's not one of those finish in the morning kind of jobs and if you start getting frustrated, you will forget things which is not a good thing to do. Take your time and be patient. Leave ample time and make sure there is another car you can use to go to supercheap or the similar if you need something.

No crap will fall off. Done this job twice now and everything has come up quite nicely. Pay attention to torque settings and the such and you will be fine. Leave plenty of time to get everything done properly.

My most important tip. Have somewhere comfortable to sit and have a drink nearby. I know this sounds like a bullshit tip but once you get started on this, you really do need to finish it in the same sitting and the job can take upwards of 4 hours. It's not one of those finish in the morning kind of jobs and if you start getting frustrated, you will forget things which is not a good thing to do. Take your time and be patient. Leave ample time and make sure there is another car you can use to go to supercheap or the similar if you need something.

Wise words indeed!
To borrow a concept from Zen Buddhism, the destination is the end of a journey, focus more on the journey and less on the destination, that is simply a natural consequence of the journey.
In English, that means concentrate on getting the right tools and understanding the process before you start.

And 4 hours? lol Why rush something that is enjoyable and rewarding? lol

Upwards of 4 hours.

Youre right, it is a rewarding experience. If you get it done right, you know you just saved hundreds of dollars, which can be spent on beer!

(beer is not a recommended beverage while attempting this, especially at 3 beers per hour x 7 hours)

7 hours sounds more like my speed, although I didn't time myself and skip the beers. lol

7 hours sounds more like my speed, although I didn't time myself and skip the beers. lol

It took me about 10, plenty of panicking and head scratching involved.

. . . . . plenty of panicking and head scratching involved.

All part of that fascinating journey of discovery. lol
(Not recommended for the short tempered and impatient members of the human race though.)

All part of that fascinating journey of discovery. lol
(Not recommended for the short tempered and impatient members of the human race though.)

You need patience alright. Lots of it.

There is a good reason why mechanics charge ~$500 for the job.

lol Did an oil and filter change for my son the other day.
I was taking it easy, trying to work out how to get the very tight oil filter off without spilling oil everywhere or damaging the strap wrench.
Said something like "a bit tight" when I came up from under the car.
He got angry and swore, then dove under the car and got violent. Filter came off, oil everywhere.

Really spoilt my Zen mood, I tells ya!