Hi Guys

Does anyone know of any common issues with the air con fan in the 380,

I have checked the fuses and they appear ok,

The Aircon light comes on and off and I can hear the compressor start, but not getting any air into the cabin on any setting with the aircon on or off,

Any ideas where to start looking

Have you checked the recirculate button?
Sometimes that has effect on air entering the cabin

yeah the recirc button is still cycling on and off when pressed

Does the 380 aircon light normally cycle with the compressor switching on/off?
On the Magna it is on all the time.
Perhaps the aircon is out of gas and the high/low pressure switch is cutting the power? Perhaps one of the flap control motors is not working? Needs a good look at for sure.

The light turns on and off when you turn the a/c on and off, but it is actually the fan not working I think with the fan going the A/C will function normally (fingers crossed), The recirc button turns off and on when I press it not the A/C if I misled anyone

ok - either the fan is u/s, switch or fuse.

Not to move away from the topic too much, but the air conditioning on the back seats is not as strong (much weaker) in terms of airflow.
Is that how it normally is or is there something I could do to improve that.

air flow in the rear seats is poor in mine (so I'm told) As was all my previous cars come to think of it

If inside fan not working is fan speed controller and is a real prick to access

how annoying is that, When you say a prick, how much of a prick?

Has anyone got any idea where abouts I would locate the Fan speed controller or how much it'll cost to replace this if it is indeed faulty

I have the same issue, Mitsubishi diagnosed it as a heater fan resistor. It will be going back soon for repairs, not sure how much it will cost.

I was hoping I could find an easy DIY tutorial on here....

Fan speed controller


heater fan resistor.

Talking about the same thing there. Have a look in the manual and you will see it's not a difficult job.

I'm away from my 380 manual, otherwise I'd put up the relevant picture. Anyone want to volunteer?

How about the air-mix motor? Mine was replaced under warranty. Everything was working but nothing was coming out of the vents.

Talking about the same thing there. Have a look in the manual and you will see it's not a difficult job.

I'm away from my 380 manual, otherwise I'd put up the relevant picture. Anyone want to volunteer?

Oh really, I see you have done them then......

For starters the fan speed controller unit according to Mits is NLA, I sell them as fast as I can get them in as used ones. They are starting to get to be a bit of an issue

To replace you take the glove box out and so as to get access to the top of the fan box, you then hope you have tripple jointed wrists as the unit is located behind one of the air ducts, almost impossible to get to. When we wreck the cars here we simply cut the plastic out of the way but with a good car you are not able to do that

Is this becoming an issue with many parts Mal? I thought they were obliged to provide parts backup for 10 years?

Is this becoming an issue with many parts Mal? I thought they were obliged to provide parts backup for 10 years?

Try sourcing a set of grilles for a 2005 Verada. They predict how much to keep based on how much was sold however, crashes, failures etc chew it up quicker than expected.

Apparently if you leave it a while and then try a little percussive maintenance (The fine art of whacking the crap out of an electronic device to get it to work again) it seems to rectify the problem. Whould I be right in assuming then that the problem is occurring in the fan switch somewhere as that was the part that reveived the "tap"

Bugger did it in mine today. 4 hours getting ready to go on holidays, put roof pod on, cleaned car, checked fluids, packed it carefully, got kids in ------ no fan!

I hate my 380 today!

Here i am thinking it was only crappy B Series Falcons that suffered this pain in the ass fan issue.

Had to drive on crappy B roads in i40, suspension bottoming out all the time. Fan works though!

Mal you mentioned that this is listed as no longer available. I bought one off your Ebay store today Does that mean Mitsubishi are making them again?

Try sourcing a set of grilles for a 2005 Verada. They predict how much to keep based on how much was sold however, crashes, failures etc chew it up quicker than expected.

Not if there are others with the KW grilles in stock as we have :) Thus why we get these parts when we can as we know they are about to run out so we get a stock of them in :)


Mal you mentioned that this is listed as no longer available. I bought one off your Ebay store today Does that mean Mitsubishi are making them again?

I was able to find out what other Mitsubishi car these were used on and then order them directly from Japan, there seems to have been quite a bit of parts sharing around the 2007 era for these sorts of electronic parts thankfully

Thanks for sourcing these! I would predict the average dealer would reply on enquiring "sorry, can't help you".

This part must be from the same factory as the window regulators, indicator stalk and Magna fuel sender.......Chinese maybe????

I dont deal in Chinese parts, these come from Mitsubishi Japan as do the indicator stalks. Regs come from Mits Aust but originate from the USA from memory, the originals were Taiwanese but these are the ones which fail

Thanks Mal. Was a tongue in cheek dig at the originals maybe being Chinese as they don't last that well. There seem to be only a handful of parts that fail regularly on 380, otherwise car is fairly sturdy. Hopefully fan speed controllers are an updated design. Funny thing is I've never had a window reg fail! Had the indicator stalk and the Magna a fuel sender. Touch wood..... Steve

Thanks Mal. Was a tongue in cheek dig at the originals maybe being Chinese as they don't last that well. There seem to be only a handful of parts that fail regularly on 380, otherwise car is fairly sturdy. Hopefully fan speed controllers are an updated design. Funny thing is I've never had a window reg fail! Had the indicator stalk and the Magna a fuel sender. Touch wood..... Steve

I do hope you have not put the hex on yourself LOL

My young bloke was putting the window down in the back when it let go and siad to him next time he breaks one it comes out of his pocket money.

Sure as shite a fortnight later he was putting the window up on the other rear side and it gave way.

Now i keep my mouth shut.

Good point! I've replaced two in my father's 380 as well as indicator stalk. Shame they are not all the same (four windows) then you could carry one part and some basic tools. Only takes 30-40 minutes after all.....

I sometimes carry an impact driver and some tek screws do I can lock window up if a rear one goes. Used this technique on my father's car whilst waiting for part.

Well I've had a look at the job and the part is a real pain to get to! Do you remove any other parts to make it easier Mal? I've got the glovebox assembly off but that's it so far. The duct you mention before is the main problem. Looks like the one that goes to the rear.

Wouldn't be so bad if there weren't two screws holding the part in.

Has me baffled......

They are difficult to access but can be done. Is hard to explain on a forum how to do this on a forum but in short I use a combination of little uni joints to access it all

Thanks Mal, I'll have another go. I rang around a few places to do it for me and I was given dates into January. Can't wait that long really with next week's forecast towards 40 degrees every day.

Notice part I got from you is a Denso so that is reassuring,

If only that duct pulled out...........

Well I gave officially put it in the too hard basket for a home mechanic like myself. My hands are too big and my patience not up to the level of an auto electrician. Tried some flexible extensions and uni joints etc. However, there are a few options whilst waiting to have it fixed professionally or possible option 2 below.

1. Change the wiring over from the in situ faulty resister to the new one and let it sit next to the fan box.

2. Alternative placement in the ducting towards the glove box side. This would require another hole to be made. I'm not sure if this would work properly in a slightly different position but might be worth experimenting with. At worst the hole would need to be patched and the repair done as standard. I was thinking if this part is an issue, future replacements would then be very easy.

3. Find a patient mechanic or auto elec with small hands and plenty of vasoline!

ADDITIONAL QUESTIONS.

The resister has a heat sink and I assume why it is placed inside the fan ducting (cooling), however in winter this will receive hot air I would assume? Is it likely to overheat if not placed in the ducting?

Resistor block needs to be in the airflow to stop it overheating AFAIK.
On a first gen Magna, the resistor block was a simple arrangement of a couple of coils, mine blew one of the coils so the fan only worked on high speed. I guess the 380 one is wired differently.

Yes I've decided the cooling effect of being in duct obviously imperative. I've cut a hole in the front of air box ducting and screwed part in. Also extending the wiring. Sits close to original part inside ducting therefore gets good airflow and now can now be changed in about 5 minutes.

All finished. Obviously some might think a bit of a "hack" job but the heat sink is very close to original so cooling not an issue. Extending wires a little fiddly and need to make sure to match the heavy duty wiring (I would estimate 40-50 amp or more). Is probably a little vulnerable to the odd footwell kick but I don't think that much of a problem. Can be changed in probably 2 minutes max but then again it will probably outlast the car now..........

Mitsubishi made it a chore to change so had to use a bIt of lateral thinking........

I think the wires are about 25 AMP

Guys, has to be in the fan box or aircon box. Heated air enters the system later on so no hot air there

In ducting does not work and will cook the new unit

Yes my modification places in fan box on the side facing passenger, rather then on top. Heat sink is about 5cm from original unit so all good with plenty of air flow. Old heat sink looks smaller then the new one (seeing it through the old hole).

Good thing about nutting something like this out, with the help of people on the forums, is you get to learn something new!

First drive after repair and rear window regulator dies......

Actually went bang and fell down in 36 degree heat. My car is trying to cook us one way or another!

Hi all,

I've been quoted about $700 in labour to fix this issue. Does that sound right for how hard the part is to replace?

Cheers,
Zolt

It is a lot of work. The glove box needs to be removed. The dealer most likely take out more, like the dash. Give madmagna a PM.

My moved part is still working well. One option I guess?