Hi guys, really need some help here.

Im having issues with my handbrake, when I bought the car is was fine until I tried towing a trailer and one cable snapped. So I had that replaced at my mechanics, after that the hand brake started to squeal so the mechanics replaced the other worn out cable.

With two cables replaced I still had the squeal, so I took it back and they adjusted it, it was fine for a while but the noise kept coming back, the mechanics told me they would take the wheels off clean the shoe to remove any dust and whatsoever, and then they would adjust it.

I had to take it back a couple more times and they did the same thing, the noise would go away for a few days but then it would come back, then suddenly the noise went away for quite some time but I was unhappy with how loose my handbrake was (I couldnt park the car forwards on a slope without it rolling), so I took of the rear wheels and went to adjust the start wheel through the hole in the hub, however I couldn't, im assuming they are on quite tight but im not sure how easy they should be too adjust.

So I did the obvious thing and adjusted the cables at the center console nut, I was happy with how it was holding until during a hill drive on Sunday the noise came back, the noise would not go away and still hasn't and my hand brake is getting looser and looser, I do not want to brand new cables to stretch.

Im thinking on taking it back to the mechanics, getting them to back off the start wheel a couple of clicks and then adjusting it at the console, but would like to check with you guys first.

In summary, star wheel is too tight to adjust (may have been on that tight from last adjustment only) and handbrake cable is loosening/stretching itself.

Thanks in advance.

Adjuster should not be tight. I would say they have screwed something up

Also when the shoe gets removed you should use graphite grease on the shoe to stop the squeak

Adjuster should not be tight. I would say they have screwed something up

Also when the shoe gets removed you should use graphite grease on the shoe to stop the squeak

Perfect, thanks heaps Mal I will let me mechanics know and they are great and im sure will look after me, im not sure whether they would have used the grease already but hopefully not so then this will solve it !!!

Before you pull things apart, try applying the handbrake while going slow in reverse, this centralises the shoes. Might help to make the noise go away.

Never had any joy adjusting those star wheels on Mitsus from Galant through to Magnas, pretty much frozen in place, it's always needed the brake drum or disc removal and freeing up the adjusters. Pull them right off, clean them and lube the threads then see if they turn easily. Pretty easy to do on the Magna, also a good time to work out which way they turn to adjust. Reassemble with them wound right in. Also, if the brake shoe itself is very shiny it may be glazed and needs a bit of roughening up with sandpaper, or replacing. Put the disc back on, use two reversed wheel nuts to hold the disc on, then adjust until the shoes drag, then back off. Work the handbrake lever at the back of the backing plate to keep the shoe centralised while you do this. You may need to back off the adjuster inside the car before you adjust the shoes, then adjust it afterwards to give you 5 clicks on the handbrake lever.

Never had a problem with noisy brake shoes or stretching cables on a Mitsu, nor needed to adjust the front cable adjustment so this is a strange problem.

While the discs are off, check for signs of any rubbing marks on the inside of the disc and backing plate, the noise may have nothing to do with the brake shoes themselves.

There is also a spring at the bottom of the shoe that is worth looking at, in case it is missing or bent. It's meant to hold the shoe away from the disc. (7 and the bit next to it in the picture)

http://i881.photobucket.com/albums/ac19/rons105/brakerear_zps5700fdeb.jpg

Strange, I do this on a daily basis when I do a service and rarely have I seen a Magna with seized adjuster. I just must be lucky I guess

Cables should not have any pressure on them when the brake is off. The hubs get adjusted then the cable gets adjusted to simply take up the slack in the cable itself.

I would say that the issue is the shoe moving in the drum and the squeal is the shoe on the backing plate or the drum itself. I usually take these apart, clean everything and then when I put the hand brake shoe back on I lube the back of it where it contacts the backing plate. Adjust the shoe as per factory spec and all is good. Another thing to watch is the little pin on the handbrake lever in the top of the drum, these often come dislodged and even sometime fall out the back and vanish all together

Ok thanks for the info Mal and Max, Max im not even going to try to play with this, part of it is work done by the mechanics so im going to let them know and see how they want to do this, Ill just print this for clarification.

Took what you said to the Mechanics Mal, they had already done everything you said, so they have done it again for me free of charge, adjusted it, its a bit tight so they said if theres noise (theres still a tiny bit) take it back and they can back it off, so that will be the best idea I think, then only time will tell.

Update, Took it back, they backed it off, but its loose to the point where parking forward is almost not an option, yet im still getting a squealing.

Any suggestions from here?

Update, Took it back, they backed it off, but its loose to the point where parking forward is almost not an option, yet im still getting a squealing.

Any suggestions from here?

Yes. Take it back to the mechanic and complain. He sounds pretty lost on this job. Maybe get a second opinion ?

Id like to take it to someone who specializes in handbrakes, any thoughts? Id prefer to stay in the southern suburbs.

Id like to take it to someone who specializes in handbrakes, any thoughts? Id prefer to stay in the southern suburbs.

Dad had his handbrake rebuilt on his KJ. Had it done at morphett vale garage.

New pads, cable and adjustment. Good as new.

If you find a good place, let me know. I need mine done. It only engages on the left wheel.

Pulling the shoes off and cleaning everything up with brake cleaner sounds like a good move. Some crud could possible be wedged in there.

Can you use a squeal stopping paste on it, like normal brake pads?

Pulling the shoes off and cleaning everything up with brake cleaner sounds like a good move. Some crud could possible be wedged in there.

Can you use a squeal stopping paste on it, like normal brake pads?

The OP doesn't want to go anywhere near the brakes himself, so he has to rely on a mechanic to find and resolve the problem. Hope he can find one who can solve the problem

Pulling the shoes off and cleaning everything up with brake cleaner sounds like a good move. Some crud could possible be wedged in there.

Can you use a squeal stopping paste on it, like normal brake pads?

As per Mals comment.



I would say that the issue is the shoe moving in the drum and the squeal is the shoe on the backing plate or the drum itself. I usually take these apart, clean everything and then when I put the hand brake shoe back on I lube the back of it where it contacts the backing plate. Adjust the shoe as per factory spec and all is good. Another thing to watch is the little pin on the handbrake lever in the top of the drum, these often come dislodged and even sometime fall out the back and vanish all together


I took that info to my mechanics and this is the 5th time they had adjusted it, they read over Mal's suggestion and said that they did all that the 3rd and 4th time I took it there.

Its either find a specialist who can almost gurantee that they can fix it, or I will have to play with it myself, however I do not want too.

I will have to play with it myself, however I do not want to.

Why not? Really? What is stopping you? I mean, it's not as if you are surrounded my competent mechanics eager to fix the problem.

You have 3 choices:
(1) Put up with the problem handbrake.
(2) Find a competent mechanic. (Tried a Mitsu workshop?)
(3) Do it yourself.

Why not? Really? What is stopping you? I mean, it's not as if you are surrounded my competent mechanics eager to fix the problem.

You have 3 choices:
(1) Put up with the problem handbrake.
(2) Find a competent mechanic. (Tried a Mitsu workshop?)
(3) Do it yourself.

I have been thinking about number 2 right there, at the moment I dont have time, I go in for surgery tomorrow morning, and am out for four weeks.

Im hoping my local mitsu has dealt with this before.