Hay guys

Got my first engine light in an 3rd gen manual I've got a 3.8l fitted probably won't make much difference. I had a nail no wire and tried sticking in the connector holes but didn't work? Does anyone know how to check fault codes properly at home?

Cheers

You need to earth out one of the pins on the ECU check port (Right next to the center console under the steering wheel in the TF) to extract the codes.
Then, you count the pulses of the engine light, which gives you your code.

If only I could remember the pin you need.....

You need to earth out one of the pins on the ECU check port (Right next to the center console under the steering wheel in the TF) to extract the codes.
Then, you count the pulses of the engine light, which gives you your code.

If only I could remember the pin you need.....

So u only need to earth 1 wire not 2? Wat can i earth it with?

Again, I am talking about the TF here.... I don't know what model you have. If you tell me, I can fire up the lappy and have a look in my workshop manuals.
As to earthing the wire, you can use just a bit of speaker wire, if you want. Any old bit is fine, about 8" long is suitable for the job.
Strip both ends and job done.
Hit me up with the specific vehicle details and I will pull up the exact info for you. I will even email the code listing to you, if you like....

Hay guys

Got my first engine light in an 3rd gen manual I've got a 3.8l fitted probably won't make much difference. I had a nail no wire and tried sticking in the connector holes but didn't work? Does anyone know how to check fault codes properly at home?

Cheers
do a search there,s a code list on here some where try the fqa section

Again, I am talking about the TF here.... I don't know what model you have. If you tell me, I can fire up the lappy and have a look in my workshop manuals.
As to earthing the wire, you can use just a bit of speaker wire, if you want. Any old bit is fine, about 8" long is suitable for the job.
Strip both ends and job done.
Hit me up with the specific vehicle details and I will pull up the exact info for you. I will even email the code listing to you, if you like....

Mines a 2000 model TH 3.5. How do u ground the wires I tried doing number 1 terminal didn't work?

Pin 1 of the diagnostic connector is the correct one to ground according to the manual I just checked - you ground it, then turn the ignition on. AFAICT from the same manual, pin 5 of the diagnostic connector is ground, so attaching some form of jumper between pins 5 and 1 should do the trick. The flashing won't start until the ignition is on.

Pin 1 of the diagnostic connector is the correct one to ground according to the manual I just checked - you ground it, then turn the ignition on. AFAICT from the same manual, pin 5 of the diagnostic connector is ground, so attaching some form of jumper between pins 5 and 1 should do the trick. The flashing won't start until the ignition is on.

Yes it did the trick in the end. I've got 2 codes by the way. 11 and 12. Witch explains alot my fuel economy
Has been terrible. And the cars been running really rich only last 2 weeks and sometimes stalls and has trouble starting after stalling witch I thinks my maf. Can these affect performance wytwun? 11 and 12 is oxygen sensor and airflow sensor.

Cleared codes went for drive. Checked codes now all clear. I don't believe 2 seperate codes have cleared themselves.?

Cleared codes went for drive. Checked codes now all clear. I don't believe 2 seperate codes have cleared themselves.?

They may take some time to reappear, if there really is a fault.

Pull out your spark plugs. This will tell you immediately if you're running rich. And give the car time to log the codes again. It's quite possible they only log under certain conditions. Check your air filter as well, ensuring it's not blocked.

Yes it did the trick in the end. I've got 2 codes by the way. 11 and 12. Witch explains alot my fuel economy
Has been terrible. And the cars been running really rich only last 2 weeks and sometimes stalls and has trouble starting after stalling witch I thinks my maf. Can these affect performance wytwun? 11 and 12 is oxygen sensor and airflow sensor.
To get the oxygen sensor code, I believe the oxygen sensor has to be supplying a voltage to the ECU that is out of spec on the high (rich) side - i.e. more than about 0.9V (haven't looked for the actual value). If the sensor has failed it would normally send the ECU close to 0V which indicates lean and no CEL/code will eventuate.

The MAF code indicates that the MAF signal is out of spec, though that could be anything from no signal to a signal out of frequency range (the MAF signal is a variable frequency signal not a variable voltage/current signal), however if the sensor signal frequency is too high the ECU will shut down the engine and won't permit a restart until the ignition is turned OFF and back ON.

Anything out of spec will hurt performance. Having cleared the codes, it may take some time to trigger them again - the fault (whatever it is) may only intermittently present itself. Intermittent faults can be the very devil to pin down. If you have reason to think the engine is running rich, you need to make sure of that and sort that out - I suspect the oxygen sensor code will not reappear after that is fixed.

The most likely sources of intermittent sensor faults are wiring problems, as broken wires or pins can remain in contact and outwardly show no issue until disturbed.