Ok so ive got a problem with my 98 TF magna v6 executive its a manual, so here it is when you accelerate foot to the floor the car has no power and just shudders and deffinetly doesnt run right (i dont drive foot to the floor just noticed it one time when i was sitting in my yard put foot all the way down and yeah) also it idles around 1000 or so when first starting then drops to 600-700 after about a minute but idles rough then and car shakes, also when driving you cant put foot down to hard or else it shudders and has no power and from taking off sometimes you have to pump the accelerator to get the revs up.

So my mechanic told me to replace MAF sensor as it was faulty so i did, problem not solved so i then replaced plugs, leads and fuel filter, rocker cover gaskets and plug seals, intake plenum gasket and also tried a fuel additive to clean system. None of this has worked so i tried unplugging my o2 sensor and the car runs exactly the same but when i unplug MAF sensor the car idles steady but again stays at around 1000 or higher but still has that shudder on full throttle

Anyone got any idea as to what it could be? im really starting to lose patience with the car, i mean i love it but its just really starting to get annoying trying to drive it all the time

Have you done a voltage check on your TPS? What about inspecting the throttle body for build up and correct gap setting in the throttle flap?
The will idle higher when cold than it does while it's warm, that's fairly normal. Have you actually tried a different MAF as well, rather than just unplugging it?

havnt done voltage check on TPS yet will do that next, throttle body has been cleaned and the flap has been set correctly, and i havnt tried a different MAF sensor as i only just brought this one cause last one was faulty so im assuming that it should be working

Bought it new or s/h?
Also, keep in mind it could be dirty pins on a connector as much as a sensor itself, so do a visual check, and maybe invest in some contact cleaner and give them a going over.

Check your dist, coils will make this happen

TPS is very doubtful to be honest, car should start at fast idle and drop to 6-700, this is quite normal

Doesn't at all sound like a tps issue. If your TPS was buggered you would usually get a CEL.

Sounds more like ignition issues, whether it be distributor, leads or spark plugs (or a combination of these.)

Replace plugs and leads (which you should probably do anyway) then if the issue continues then I would bet my bottom dollar it is in the distributor.

Funny, I had almost this exact issue and it WAS my T.P.S. or at least, swapping out my T.P.S. solved the issue, so....

TPS is one of those strange things. It very well could be the TPS, but it is such a broad issue that it is more than likely an ignition problem.

I was about to make an exact same post as i have the exact same problem on the ralliart.

Originally i thought it was driveline (wheel bearing?) related but shudder only happens on load and full throttle.. was not rpm or speed related. also my fuel economy is anywhere from ~25-30l/100km!!

I've replaced rocker gaskets, new ngk iridiums all round, ngk leads all round, new bosch dizzy rotor and cap (because lead 6 plug snapped in dizzy cap i thought it was because of this). the problem is still there which leads me to any of the following:
- O2 sensor (although exuast doesnt smell rich on idle)
- MAF? (but shudder is only on high load and not necessarily WOT)
- Coil (I too believe this possibility the most but wanting to get more experienced opinions on here before committing to getting one of these as the most expensive to replace of the lot). This is probably because my stuffed rotor and lead would have probably strained the coil which i've known to happen on other cars at high revs.
- And according to some posts on here. .the TPS which doesnt make sense to me as this thing has literally not moved or been touched.. i didnt even remove the TB when doing the rear gaskets and plugs.

I also cant seem to find much other similar issues in this section or the tech section

TPS is a mechanical device and they do wear out. Has switch, sliding contact as far as I know. Need to check with a multimeter.

Check eBay for an ignition coil - not too expensive.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/310157964614?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Lol your right.. how could i forget ebay after already saving $1000 on the service parts.. managed to find a new one for $50 shipped making it cheaper to test first before o2 sensor. But at almost 200k i may as well change o2 sensor right?



TPS is a mechanical device and they do wear out. Has switch, sliding contact as far as I know. Need to check with a multimeter.

Check eBay for an ignition coil - not too expensive.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/310157964614?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

$51.30 actually, just bought one. lol


I would get the new coil in, try the car and if it still acts up read the error codes.

If it runs well with no error codes but your fuel consumption is still high, only then do the oxygen sensor.

thanks for all the suggestions guys will be testing each theory out hopefully one of them works as im so just over having to drive it and so close to just selling it but i know i wont get back the amount of money ive put into it

yeah ive looked on multiple sites and havnt found any problems as similar but seen alot of people suggesting TPS, dizzy cap, rotor, injectors, vaccum leaks, faulty MAF, faulty o2 sensor.

And yet ive checked most of these things and replaced alot and still has no difference to how it runs

I've replaced rocker gaskets, new ngk iridiums all round, ngk leads all round, new bosch dizzy rotor and cap (because lead 6 plug snapped in dizzy cap i thought it was because of this). the problem is still there which leads me to any of the following:
- O2 sensor (although exuast doesnt smell rich on idle)
- MAF? (but shudder is only on high load and not necessarily WOT)
- Coil (I too believe this possibility the most but wanting to get more experienced opinions on here before committing to getting one of these as the most expensive to replace of the lot). This is probably because my stuffed rotor and lead would have probably strained the coil which i've known to happen on other cars at high revs.
- And according to some posts on here. .the TPS which doesnt make sense to me as this thing has literally not moved or been touched.. i didnt even remove the TB when doing the rear gaskets and plugs.

I also cant seem to find much other similar issues in this section or the tech section

yeah ive replaced all the same stuff execpt for dizzy cap and rotor, and also when replacing plugs i dont take TB off so ive never went near the TPS

yeah ive replaced all the same stuff execpt for dizzy cap and rotor, and also when replacing plugs i dont take TB off so ive never went near the TPS

In case you're interested.. i got these.. exact same as the ones you can get here but half the price:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220927220931?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_890wt_1163

Are your symtoms/tests the same as i've described? This si the coil MadMax and I are talking about.. just got one myself too just then :D :
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330848224425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3239wt_1114

"I've never went near the TPS" isn't relevant, they can act up by themselves. Anyhow, it would show up in the error codes, amongst others.

Mitsubishi DTC’s (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
11 Oxygen Sensor
12 Air Flow Sensor
13 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
14 Throttle Position Sensor
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
22 Crank Angle Sensor
23 Top Dead Centre (TDC) Sensor
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 Barometric Air Pressure Sensor
36 Ignition Timing Circuit
41 Fuel Injectors
44 Ignition Circuit
52 Ignition Circuit
53 Ignition Circuit

Would these ignition coils fit a KL? They all say compatible to tj but KL would be the same right?

Wheres the tutorial for the ecu pin grounding so i can check this out?

I've been using this awesome app for my obd2 troubleshooting with a cheap bluetooth adapter for ages but still not supporting MUT protocol.. owner is testing it though:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en




"I've never went near the TPS" isn't relevant, they can act up by themselves. Anyhow, it would show up in the error codes, amongst others.

Mitsubishi DTC’s (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)
11 Oxygen Sensor
12 Air Flow Sensor
13 Intake Air Temperature Sensor
14 Throttle Position Sensor
21 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
22 Crank Angle Sensor
23 Top Dead Centre (TDC) Sensor
24 Vehicle Speed Sensor
25 Barometric Air Pressure Sensor
36 Ignition Timing Circuit
41 Fuel Injectors
44 Ignition Circuit
52 Ignition Circuit
53 Ignition Circuit

I'm assuming they are generic across the third gen range, all the same, but you might need to check Mitsu part numbers, if anyone has access to those.

Bought an ignition coil as a spare for future use in either my TJ or TL, so I hope they are the same. lol

Wheres the tutorial for the ecu pin grounding so i can check this out?

Diagnostic connector, pin 1 to ground.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2012-07-04_124941_dlc.png

Fault Code Extraction
1. Switch Ignition ON.
2. Ground Terminal 1 on the Diagnostic Connector. (Top left)
Pin 4 is earth, so just do this with a piece of wire or paperclip.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/GlennBradley/2012-06-03_111923_magna_dlc.png

Worth a read: http://www.justanswer.com/mitsubishi/6qtgd-mitsubishi-magna-hi-glenn-i-m-having-automatic-gear.html

3. Read Engine Codes as Flashes of the Check Engine Lamp.
4. Read Transmission Codes as Flashes of the Neutral "N" Lamp in the Dash.

Engine Codes:
The Two Digit Engine Fault Codes are displayed as flashes of the Check Engine Lamp.
There is an initial pause of 3 Seconds followed by the Code.
Long Flashes (1.5 Seconds) represent the Tens.
Short Flashes (0.5 Seconds) represent the Units.
A 2 Second Pause separates the Tens and Units.
If more than one Code is in Memory, they will be displayed in sequence.
If No Codes are present, continuous 0.5 Second Flashes will be displayed.

In case you're interested.. i got these.. exact same as the ones you can get here but half the price:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220927220931?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_890wt_1163

Are your symtoms/tests the same as i've described? This si the coil MadMax and I are talking about.. just got one myself too just then :D :
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/330848224425?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3239wt_1114

As a side note, be very wary of the second seller, has many many very unhappy customers, I know a few locally who will not go near them either

MadMax: Thanks for posting.. i was going to do Pin 10/12 as per other threads

MadMagna: Damn... the seller we just bought the coil off? Will keep in mind for future... just hope he ships express as i've paid for since as i cant even goto my po box to get the rest of my maintenance parts :/ On a side note, the set of ACL rocker gaskets i got off you are pretty awesome.. funny how i bought a set off you this time last year and got a mech to put em in and i change them myself this time around and they look nothing alike.. bugger took off with my new parts.. didnt think they'd start leaking again in less than a year

Well I bought one from them express and it arrived on time so no complaints there - will put it in tomorrow and let you guys know if it works in the KL...assuming it stops raining tomorrow...

Well I bought one from them express and it arrived on time so no complaints there - will put it in tomorrow and let you guys know if it works in the KL...assuming it stops raining tomorrow...
Well it fitted in just fine, was identical to the one that was in there minus the mitsu sticker.

Pain in the ass to get out(i disassembled the distributor while it was still in the car) probably hadn't been touched since new so everything was tightly stuck together. Putting it back together was super easy though.

One thing though is the rotor arm, theres a little DIY guide on here that says it should be facing the cylinder 1 plug on the cap, but mine was facing cylinder 4 plug(both when i took it off and put it back on). Not sure if i should be worried or if facing cylinder 1 plug is only necessary when installing an entire distributor?

^^^yep massive pain... really soft screws that are lock-tighted in... but this diddn't fix my shudder and fuel issues... i guess o2 sensor next :(

no error codes either on pin jump