Notified today that my Fujita CAI is on it's way to oz, took a bit longer coz I got the custom bronze finish which I'm hoping might be a similar colour to my car.

Also have 4 more O2 spacers coming to try to solve this CEL from the extractors. Will hold off fitting the CAI until I have another crack at the O2 sensors. I would like to have that fixed in case the CAI throws the CEL also. One light for a million probelms sucks!!

I've been looking around the net to buy a OBD2 scanner as I think the further I go the more CEL's I'll be seeing. If I can diagnose them myself It'll be a hell of a lot cheaper than going to the mechanic everytime.

Do you think there's any advantage or use for the BRAT box on our cars?

(sorry, using you as the guinea pig for mods before spending my cash :P)

I've been looking around the net to buy a OBD2 scanner as I think the further I go the more CEL's I'll be seeing. If I can diagnose them myself It'll be a hell of a lot cheaper than going to the mechanic everytime.

Is it a scanner you need or a plug-in for a laptop?

One of the tuners up here used a laptop and cable to try and read the ECU. Wasn't successful BTW.

Please forgive my ignorance but what is an O2 spacer, where do they go & what do they do?
The rear oxygen (O2) sensors when moved after installing extractors tends to throw a CEL (experienced by myself & now BloodASP). Guys in the US have had success solving this by spacing the O2 sensor out of the exhaust gas flow basically so it reads less unburnt oxygen in the exhaust.

Do you think there's any advantage or use for the BRAT box on our cars?

(sorry, using you as the guinea pig for mods before spending my cash :P)
I think the BRAT box as they call it is just a piggyback computer & yes definately has an advantage after modifications. I have the Unichip Q & Knotched has the Excede.

Is it a scanner you need or a plug-in for a laptop?

One of the tuners up here used a laptop and cable to try and read the ECU. Wasn't successful BTW.
Either a handheld scanner to read & reset the CEL error codes or laptop software with the communications adaptor.

It was CNJ that tried to upload my ecu's ROM with no success which is a different thing again. He was trying to delete the CEL for a O2 sensor problem coming up on the dash. You can do it with EVO's & WRX's apparantly.

I think the BRAT box as they call it is just a piggyback computer & yes definately has an advantage after modifications. I have the Unichip Q & Knotched has the Excede.

I thought it was just there to revert the signals to back within acceptable levels to fool the stock ECU?

Hmmm I don't think so but it was a while ago I read about it, might revisit the forums & check it out again but i was sure it was just a piggyback.

I thought it was just there to revert the signals to back within acceptable levels to fool the stock ECU?
Well I had a read & it seems you are sort of right. It stops the factory ecu undoing your tune although I haven't had a problem with this & I say Knotched hasn't either otherwise we would have heard about it by now.

Road Race Engineering also sell O2 spacers so it seems that the BRAT is only really to keep the AFR's in check after a tune & may not help with the O2 sensor CEL??

I have my car going in on wedensday for a chip and tune will have a word with the tuner to see if he can't kill that CEL light somehow he will be giving a before and after dyno report so will post up the results when i pick it up friday :D

I have my car going in on wedensday for a chip and tune will have a word with the tuner to see if he can't kill that CEL light somehow he will be giving a before and after dyno report so will post up the results when i pick it up friday :D

then it should be a trip out to the drags!!! see what she can do....Foozcrool should go for a run to some time. Come on guys only Knotched has given it a go. BTW nice researching you are doing there Foozcrool. you seem to be helping a lot of the guys out here, and interests other future 380 owners

I have my car going in on wedensday for a chip and tune will have a word with the tuner to see if he can't kill that CEL light somehow he will be giving a before and after dyno report so will post up the results when i pick it up friday :D
Awesome can't wait to see the figures!! :cool:

then it should be a trip out to the drags!!! see what she can do....Foozcrool should go for a run to some time. Come on guys only Knotched has given it a go. BTW nice researching you are doing there Foozcrool. you seem to be helping a lot of the guys out here, and interests other future 380 owners
Yeah yeah will get there eventually. I'm having a problem with extremely rough & erratic idle when cold since the mechanic mucked with my O2 sensors (like stage 3 cams!! :badgrin: ), may have to go to an exhaust place & get them to redo it. Might go a hi-flow cat too if Bloods dyno figures are good.

These engines have huge potential unfortunately the 380 is dead so no one wants to do any performance stuff for them. Thats why I'm looking at the US, a lot of the Eclipse GT bits will fit the Galants over there so should also fit the 380.

I was reading one of the Galant owners (mivec there) is puting out about 20hp atw more than me & cut a 13.9 on the quarter or there abouts!!!! .... what the?!

PS - My Fujita CAI kit turned up today, looks good but might have to modify the MAF sensor flange thing, our sensor has a different bolt orientation. Not sure until I pull mine apart but will just be an easy file/drill tap sorta thing anyway.

PPS - Check this supercharger kit for the 3.8L mivec eclipse http://www.rippmods.com/product_p/0607sdsv6-1.htm
Wonder if it will go on the 380?????????????

I was reading one of the Galant owners (mivec there) is puting out about 20hp atw more than me & cut a 13.9 on the quarter or there abouts!!!! .... what the?!



Crikey the N/A vs forced induction debate is starting to swing in favour of the N/A modifiers.

There was a time during the pushrod era when one horsepower per cubic inch was considered good for a N/A engine in a street car. Now it seems like the benchmark is one horsepower per cubic centimetre! Soon there could be a 380hp N/A Mitsubishi 380. Insane!

Crikey the N/A vs forced induction debate is starting to swing in favour of the N/A modifiers.

There was a time during the pushrod era when one horsepower per cubic inch was considered good for a N/A engine in a street car. Now it seems like the benchmark is one horsepower per cubic centimetre! Soon there could be a 380hp N/A Mitsubishi 380. Insane!
Yeah well thats only about 60 HP atw more than mine which would definately be achievable with head work, cams, bit more compression & maybe a 380 version of EZ's manifold

Yeah well thats only about 60 HP atw more than mine which would definately be achievable with head work, cams, bit more compression & maybe a 380 version of EZ's manifold

can you guys get a 380-only forum.:rant: you're starting to make the forced induction people look bad.

can you guys get a 380-only forum.:rant: you're starting to make the forced induction people look bad.
Ha ha so you don't want me to mention the Eclipse/Galant/380 3.8L in the US doing 400 HP ATW supercharged then?? :badgrin:

PPS - Check this supercharger kit for the 3.8L mivec eclipse http://www.rippmods.com/product_p/0607sdsv6-1.htm
Wonder if it will go on the 380?????????????

that super charger is almost the same as the raptor chargers.

I was reading one of the Galant owners (mivec there) is puting out about 20hp atw more than me & cut a 13.9 on the quarter or there abouts!!!! .... what the?!


Blah...:nuts:

So much for my pathetic excuses for a lousy 1/4 :doubt:

That is a fantastic time. Must have had slicks fitted etc.

Blah...:nuts:

So much for my pathetic excuses for a lousy 1/4 :doubt:

That is a fantastic time. Must have had slicks fitted etc.
Dunno was just mentioned in a thread I was reading. Would be cool if we had mivec heads, this guy doesn't have extractors yet but has all the rest .... chip, CAI, exhaust & he's pumping 20 hp more than me ..... bastard :rant:

Had a play with my O2 sensors & spacers today, so far so good, will see how it runs when it's cold.

Also checked out my MAF sensor for the CAI, our sensor is bigger than the Galant & different orientation so I'll have to do a few mods to the tube to make it work ... slowly getting there ..... :)

I was reading one of the Galant owners (mivec there) is puting out about 20hp atw more than me & cut a 13.9 on the quarter or there abouts!!!! .... what the?!


Don't forget US Dyno readings are slightly different to ours (in general they HP would show a little lower on our dynos), they are measured to a different standard or something I have read before.

I expected to see a post from BloodAsp by now, must be too busy melting his front tyres after picking the 380 up :badgrin:

Ok so got it back and....i'm far less than impressed, will post dyno in the dyno thread but from the same mods minus a larger throttle body i got a grand total of 145.9KW far far far less than i was expecting, thats about 20kw less than foz's car, i don't know but i wouldn't think the throttle body was worth 20kw..... :rant: :confused: :sook:

On the plus side it seems for now the CEL has gone, will check it tomrrow and see how it goes but i'm not happy with 10kw for a $1600 outlay.

That just doesn't sound right, you have roughly the same as Knotched & he doesn't have the extractors????? Will have a look when you post the dyno graph, maybe there is something different in their setup????

Ok so got it back and....i'm far less than impressed, will post dyno in the dyno thread but from the same mods minus a larger throttle body i got a grand total of 145.9KW far far far less than i was expecting, thats about 20kw less than foz's car, i don't know but i wouldn't think the throttle body was worth 20kw..... :rant: :confused: :sook:

On the plus side it seems for now the CEL has gone, will check it tomrrow and see how it goes but i'm not happy with 10kw for a $1600 outlay.
I think from memory Knotched got about 10kw for his chip???? From what I've read elsewhere, dyno readings are hardly an exact science. The way they are calibrated has a reasonable effect on the outputs they give. The only way you could get an accurate comparison with the power Fooz is putting out would be a reading from the same dyno.

Whats it like to drive, does it feel any faster?

the thing is no it dosen't feel any different from when i gave it to them so i'm not sure what the issue is.....maybe i should check the wiring to see if it is all plugged in properly :P

Like Blue said about 10kw is normal but your power is down to start with. From what I can see the dyno settings are similar & the same brand of dyno. I think from memory when Knotched took his car into my guys he was within 1kw of what his tuner dynoed it at which is a good comparison. Like I said in the PM, are you running 98 octane?

Yes 98 octane Shell V Power to be exact

Same as I run :nuts:

OK just went for a drive to get dinner and after some heavy driving and a few 0-100 runs, i've come up with the following.

1) i think maybe the issue is with the extractors, they seem to develop a vibration under heavy acceleration that feels like it's robbing the car of some mid range power, the vibration is bad enough to be felt (maybe bad fitting or loose fitting i'm not sure)

2) the car seems not allot quicker for the work done 0-100 times (keep in mind not timed by precision time pieces just my stop watch) first run was 7.35 seconds and second run was 7.05 seconds, which is close to what i was getting with just the muffler changed.

So i'm not sure where to go, i think i'll call liverpool exhausts tomorrow and ask them what they think about this vibration and i'll also call my tuner to see if he thinks it may be something else.
Suffice to say i'm not overly happy right now :(

Interesting to see the outcome. When I put my extractors on I didn't have a vibration as such but a metalic buzzing sound through the revs, ended up being the heatshield at the front so I got rid of it.

I get a buzzing kinda sound.....at higher revs kicks in around 3k rpm where is this heat shield and how do i **** it off?

I think from memory being a while ago it was above the original cat under the front part of the car, it had some sorta bolts etc & wasn't that hard to remove although it was on a hoist at the time.

OK just went for a drive to get dinner and after some heavy driving and a few 0-100 runs, i've come up with the following.

1) i think maybe the issue is with the extractors, they seem to develop a vibration under heavy acceleration that feels like it's robbing the car of some mid range power, the vibration is bad enough to be felt (maybe bad fitting or loose fitting i'm not sure)

2) the car seems not allot quicker for the work done 0-100 times (keep in mind not timed by precision time pieces just my stop watch) first run was 7.35 seconds and second run was 7.05 seconds, which is close to what i was getting with just the muffler changed.

(

This is a bit of a mystery.

The extractors should be giving you a real kick because getting rid of the catalytic "cans" straight off the manifold will make an enormous difference to gas flow, let alone the normal effect of extractors anyway. So I would have expected you to be in the 155-160KW region to start with.

The chip may not give the car a big jump in KW but it usually sharpens response and makes a big difference to what the driver feels. Both Foozr and I got "only" around 7kw but we both agree it makes a large difference to how the car feels.

You should be feeling this difference straight after the tune.

Certainly the total output looks too low based on both Foozr's and my outputs as benchmarks.

The blue curve on you chart looks like the normal result after the AFRs are adjusted on a tune but the red curve seems way too low to start with.

So....it makes me think there is a problem in the exhaust setup somewhere.

Just got off the phone with liverpool exhausts and they think it's an engine capacity issue as if my engine is somehow not as good as knotched's and foozr's i smell BS but i got them to at least look at it but that means leaving it with them for the day, i'd rather be there while they do the work but they onl take cars in on work days.....i think i'm gonna get someone at work to look at them first and see whats they say....

You wouldn't think engine to engine would be 20kw atw difference, sounds like crap to me.

Took a mate home today and he seems to think the rasping noise i get under acceleration might be a back flow issues, possibly it's the highflow cat or maybe the muffler will be taking it in to the shop to see if they can't find the issue will keep you all informed on how i go.

Whats are the tollerance specs that mitsu work to?

Even i doubt that its a dud engine... get the compression checked and a leakdown test to make sure the rings/valves are all good. But the way i'm thinkin, i reckon they have possible used the wrong gasket somwhere and its closed up the exhaust. only way to chek is to remove it all.

They havent broken a O2 sensor wire? just throwing some possabilities around....

EDIT: And as weird as it sounds. Ive seen some pretty ordinary welds come out of some extractor manufacture's and might have a leak somwhere in the collector or around the flange plates. look for any black soot around the pipes. that may be the rasp sound your getting. and letting O2 in will give be picked up by the O2 sensor and fuel will be put in to compensate making it run rich. yada yada yada.....

Took a mate home today and he seems to think the rasping noise i get under acceleration might be a back flow issues, possibly it's the highflow cat or maybe the muffler will be taking it in to the shop to see if they can't find the issue will keep you all informed on how i go.
Mine was like that a raspy rattly metalic sound as I went up through the revs which ended up being that stupid heatshield thing. Mechanic said what do you want us to do, I said rip the f**ker off!!!

Just got off the phone with liverpool exhausts and they think it's an engine capacity issue as if my engine is somehow not as good as knotched's and foozr's i smell BS but i got them to at least look at it but that means leaving it with them for the day, i'd rather be there while they do the work but they onl take cars in on work days.....i think i'm gonna get someone at work to look at them first and see whats they say....
I am of the belief that some engines do come out of the factory with a bit more power than others but I cant see how yours could be one of those 'less powerful ones' if you were getting approx 7 seconds 100kmh times before you got the extractors & chip.

of topic here. i was bored so i unbolted the rear muffler off of my old mans 380. it sounds so nice. it will be the first mod i do to mine when i get it.

http://s215.photobucket.com/albums/cc24/magna1995/?action=view&current=380withoutrearmuffler.flv

:bowrofl: boredom does some funny stuff doesn't it. They do sound good don't they :badgrin:

Here's a pic of my uninstalled CAI kit if anyones interested ...... & yes most importantly I did get the NOS energy drink :cool:

not a good pic cos its not fitted.lol

Ha ha been working on it today to make the MAF sensor fit. Its about 34mm so put a 33mm holesaw through then worked on it with a dremel a bit. Got it to fit now & put a nice bevelled edge for the oring to seal against with a deburring tool.

I have ordered my OBD2 scanner to check the CEL codes & once I have sorted that I will bolt it up & see what the next CEL code is I get lol

I have ordered my OBD2 scanner to check the CEL codes & once I have sorted that I will bolt it up & see what the next CEL code is I get lol

You are hereby nominated as the CEL code expert! The only thing is, as a suggestion, can you increase your problem solving fix-its from a sharp screwdriver with force applied? lol

That CAI looks nice and serious. I'm expecting a good gain from it otherwise I'm calling you out as a ricer :P

P.S. Check the use by date on the NOS....

Yep CEL's won't beat me if all else fails the screwdriver will be sharpened on the grinding wheel lol

Just checked the NOS, no use by date, if you don't hear from me again you know it was off :shock:

how can nos go off ? its a gas, unless its in regards to the bottle and maintaining pressure? im just cruious

how can nos go off ? its a gas, unless its in regards to the bottle and maintaining pressure? im just cruious
dude, they're talking about the NOS energy drink :gtfo: :belt: :slap: :bash:

LMAO thats what i get for browsing and not reading the whole thing haha

LMAO thats what i get for browsing and not reading the whole thing haha

Dont need to its in the pic he posted :nuts: its on the previous page

Here's a pic of my uninstalled CAI kit if anyones interested ...... & yes most importantly I did get the NOS energy drink :cool:

is that an additonal cai. the pipe size looks small in the photo, too small to be effective. Am i missing something?

What made you choose a metal intake pipe? Only option? I'd be getting it insulated or HPC coated.

is that an additonal cai. the pipe size looks small in the photo, too small to be effective. Am i missing something?

It looks to be the same diameter as the O2 sensor section just before the inlet manifold.

It's 70mm pipe & it's made to fit the US Eclipse 3.8L mivec motor. All the US GAlant boys bolt them up as the under bonnet is the same as the Eclipse/380. They have been dynoed by the manufacturer as adding 13 HP ATW.

The 380 ecu is really fussy & will throw a CEL real easy. This intake is one of two in the US that supposedly doesn't bring up a CEL. The AEM one does so they say.

Due to lack of 380 mod parts available I have looked to the US Galant/Eclipse models. It's either that or I put the stock wheels back on, done my hat & start going to church on Sundays. lol

They have been dynoed by the manufacturer as adding 13 HP ATW.


I'd assume that is from what we have now as the standard six cylinder intake ordered from the States.

So it would be +13HP ATW from our current modded intake. Although it might not be quite as much since the Mivec engines might benefit a bit more with better breathing in the heads.

I'd assume that is from what we have now as the standard six cylinder intake ordered from the States.

So it would be +13HP ATW from our current modded intake. Although it might not be quite as much since the Mivec engines might benefit a bit more with better breathing in the heads.
Exactly & minus the benifit from the K&N panel filter. I assume it would have been dynoed against a standard US setup which would be 90mm intake & factory panel filter. Should get a bit more & will sound better too I think :cool:

do u think though it maybe a blessing in disguide we have no mivec? well for bigger power anyways? having variable valve timing kinda removes the possiblility of doing any effective headwork it u wanted to push ur engine effectively ive read, ..

but what im curious is,... is it possible to get the mivec heads bolt them on with a piggyback? or is it way more involved in that, im just stabbing in the dark here lol

do u think though it maybe a blessing in disguide we have no mivec? well for bigger power anyways? having variable valve timing kinda removes the possiblility of doing any effective headwork it u wanted to push ur engine effectively ive read, ..


You could be right.

Since Lenda has gone and got himself Stage2 cams without falling over dead from a bolt of lightning, it seems the next logical thing to do plus some valve shroud tidy-up (if the 6G75 has the same head casting).

With 10:1 CR and masses of low down torque I doubt any of us are going to miss a few KW low down and any lumpy idle will be absorbed by the greater capacity.

Rob and I have discussed going to Tighe and getting a custom set.

Mmmmmm.... tempting :drool:

You could be right.

Since Lenda has gone and got himself Stage2 cams without falling over dead from a bolt of lightning, it seems the next logical thing to do plus some valve shroud tidy-up (if the 6G75 has the same head casting).

With 10:1 CR and masses of low down torque I doubt any of us are going to miss a few KW low down and any lumpy idle will be absorbed by the greater capacity.

Rob and I have discussed going to Tighe and getting a custom set.

Mmmmmm.... tempting :drool:
Do eeet. :badgrin:

Mmmmmm.... tempting :drool:
Ha ha the pre Knotched under the thumb guy is back!! :badgrin: :cool: :shock:

...... If I can get a LSD & have to get someone poking around under my bonnet pulling stuff apart I think I would at least go the cams at the same time.

I too have thought about the Mivec heads but have no idea if it is a mechanical or electronic controlled system or both??? If the ecu controls it I'd say it's a definite no way unless we could get a whole front cut including ecu of a Ralliart Galant or Eclipse GT.

I too have thought about the Mivec heads but have no idea if it is a mechanical or electronic controlled system or both??? If the ecu controls it I'd say it's a definite no way unless we could get a whole front cut including ecu of a Ralliart Galant or Eclipse GT.

It's not worth it IMO.

Better to go for modding cams and head for known power gains. Losing a bit down low will be an advantage for us.

i think if u wanted that extra sporta punch it would be awsome,

but if u want big power not so, from what ive seen of NA modding vvt is a head ache, in 4age's they take their vvt off , and in fto's they just dont bother pretty much with anything internally.

It's not worth it IMO.

Better to go for modding cams and head for known power gains. Losing a bit down low will be an advantage for us.
I think you're right, I was just speculating. To gain more up top & loose a bit down low would be an advantage to the modded 380, as the wheels wouldn't spin up so easy trying to get the bloody thing moving!! :redface:

I think you're right, I was just speculating. To gain more up top & loose a bit down low would be an advantage to the modded 380, as the wheels wouldn't spin up so easy trying to get the bloody thing moving!! :redface:

I am sure you guys will know that these cars will spin the front wheels regardless. Mine does and i want more low down power, and may advance my cams soon. however, it is driver control that will get you moving at a quick pace. I saw an AURION at willowbank the other night and was doing 15.5s until he controlled the spin off the line and got as low as 14.69 it think or 14.59.
I gained up high and lost down low, and dont like it as much.

I saw an AURION at willowbank the other night and was doing 15.5s until he controlled the spin off the line and got as low as 14.69 it think or 14.59.
I gained up high and lost down low, and dont like it as much.

Mmm.. hope for me yet, then.

Richard, if an Aurion can do mid 14's you should be able to get into the 14's easy with your mods. That one I had a run against I was all over it had to keep backing off so I didn't hit them up the ****.

When I say wheelspin I mean straight line acceleration with traction control, just lets loose if I poke it too hard & the traction control can't keep up. When I just had the exhaust when new it wouldn't do that. Instead of feathering it off the mark I'd rather an LSD so I can give it a good bootful & make the most of the torque down low.

Richard, if an Aurion can do mid 14's you should be able to get into the 14's easy with your mods. That one I had a run against I was all over it had to keep backing off so I didn't hit them up the ****.

When I say wheelspin I mean straight line acceleration with traction control, just lets loose if I poke it too hard & the traction control can't keep up. When I just had the exhaust when new it wouldn't do that. Instead of feathering it off the mark I'd rather an LSD so I can give it a good bootful & make the most of the torque down low.

i see what ya mean. See what i found is with the traction control on, the engine distorts too much with foot planted and you loose time especially 60ft times. LSD does sound like a great solution tho. when are you taking yours out to the strip to see what it has atm???

i see what ya mean. See what i found is with the traction control on, the engine distorts too much with foot planted and you loose time especially 60ft times. LSD does sound like a great solution tho. when are you taking yours out to the strip to see what it has atm???
The only time I've noticed the traction control 'distorting' my output is when it brakes loose in 2nd in the wet & was like it hit a rev limiter & was dropping cylinders, sorta missing. Don't notice it in 1st on dry roads just spins until it kicks into 2nd. I think 1st happens too quick for the factory tuned traction control to wake up & try to do something about it.

I think an LSD would make a world of difference & would make the modded 380 a beautiful touring car. I will have to persue that some more when I have some free time.

As for the strip, I want to solve my CEL probs before I do anything like that. ATM but not all the time when cold, it runs very erratic & rough at idle. Hopefully when I get my OBD2 scanner it will shed some light on what's going on.

NOS UPDATE - Well I drank it & tastes very similar to Red Bull. I can't stop laughing now must have some gas in there too ..... :bowrofl:

The only time I've noticed the traction control 'distorting' my output is when it brakes loose in 2nd in the wet & was like it hit a rev limiter & was dropping cylinders, sorta missing. Don't notice it in 1st on dry roads just spins until it kicks into 2nd. I think 1st happens too quick for the factory tuned traction control to wake up & try to do something about it.

I think an LSD would make a world of difference & would make the modded 380 a beautiful touring car. I will have to persue that some more when I have some free time.

As for the strip, I want to solve my CEL probs before I do anything like that. ATM but not all the time when cold, it runs very erratic & rough at idle. Hopefully when I get my OBD2 scanner it will shed some light on what's going on.

NOS UPDATE - Well I drank it & tastes very similar to Red Bull. I can't stop laughing now must have some gas in there too ..... :bowrofl:

Actually now that i think of it, my car is rough when cold. when you first kick it over it almost stalls as it finds the cold start and idles up a bit and then comes down and almost stalls as you engage a gear and then the revs go up again, giving a jolt as the gear engages. Being doin it since the upgrade really. just thought it was part of having a modded car. might see what happens after a retune when i get the cam gears redialed. dont be shy when ya telling us when you do go out

Actually now that i think of it, my car is rough when cold. when you first kick it over it almost stalls as it finds the cold start and idles up a bit and then comes down and almost stalls as you engage a gear and then the revs go up again, giving a jolt as the gear engages. Being doin it since the upgrade really. just thought it was part of having a modded car. might see what happens after a retune when i get the cam gears redialed. dont be shy when ya telling us when you do go out
Hey man, my car did this too for a bit - it's the cold start on the tune I think. My tuner had to adjust mine because obviously you only get one go at it a day sorta thing. Mention it to your tuner, I'm sure he can adjust it for you.

Well I don't understand this rough running when cold. I don't get this problem at all.

Your interceptor is supposed to let the ECU software operate as normal when idling, constant throttle and in the warm-up phase.
The only time it should be intervening (overriding) with different advance maps is during significant acceleration when the ECU is out of open loop.

You could be right.

Since Lenda has gone and got himself Stage2 cams without falling over dead from a bolt of lightning, it seems the next logical thing to do plus some valve shroud tidy-up (if the 6G75 has the same head casting).

With 10:1 CR and masses of low down torque I doubt any of us are going to miss a few KW low down and any lumpy idle will be absorbed by the greater capacity.

Rob and I have discussed going to Tighe and getting a custom set.

Mmmmmm.... tempting :drool:

nope im sure no lightning has hit me! (Touch wood)

Hey man, my car did this too for a bit - it's the cold start on the tune I think. My tuner had to adjust mine because obviously you only get one go at it a day sorta thing. Mention it to your tuner, I'm sure he can adjust it for you.

i was taliking to the wife about it and she said it stopped after the plenum went on(tuned) and then returned after last tune when new Cat con went on, so yeh i think your'e right cos it was different tuners.

Well I don't understand this rough running when cold. I don't get this problem at all.

Your interceptor is supposed to let the ECU software operate as normal when idling, constant throttle and in the warm-up phase.
The only time it should be intervening (overriding) with different advance maps is during significant acceleration when the ECU is out of open loop.
Well it started doing it after I played with the rear O2 sensors. Tonight when I ducked out for a quick drive it was perfect whereas yesterday it was jerking & carrying on at the lights down the corner???? ...... go figure???? Doesn't seem to be consisteant but only happens when cold or near cold.

Well it started doing it after I played with the rear O2 sensors. Tonight when I ducked out for a quick drive it was perfect whereas yesterday it was jerking & carrying on at the lights down the corner???? ...... go figure???? Doesn't seem to be consisteant but only happens when cold or near cold.

Is there room for 2 wimen in ya life? You gotta ask yerself...

:bowrofl:
Is there room for 2 wimen in ya life? You gotta ask yerself...

Hey man, my car did this too for a bit - it's the cold start on the tune I think. My tuner had to adjust mine because obviously you only get one go at it a day sorta thing. Mention it to your tuner, I'm sure he can adjust it for you.

i concur, in my car even though its not a mitsi no more after it was retuned it was not idling the best, its stalled a few times, so the tuner made the computer give it slightly more revs when it was cold , fixed the problem. i go through this every time i change my tunes from my cappa flash tuner ,