Hows ya car coming along. Is it in the shop yet?

sad to say... no! dave is still working on the other cars and mine keeps gettting pushed back, im tempted to take one of the offers up the guys were giving me at the cruise last week and let them do the work, im starting to get fairly annoyed. i have been screwed around so much with this job so far, not with just dave but with mitsubishi. i WAS really looking forward to the cams going in, now there just loosing there effect, hopefully should be done in a week or 2. i promise iw ill keep you updated.

mike

sad to say... no! dave is still working on the other cars and mine keeps gettting pushed back, im tempted to take one of the offers up the guys were giving me at the cruise last week and let them do the work, im starting to get fairly annoyed. i have been screwed around so much with this job so far, not with just dave but with mitsubishi. i WAS really looking forward to the cams going in, now there just loosing there effect, hopefully should be done in a week or 2. i promise iw ill keep you updated.

mike

Well when it is all done I am sure that frown will be upside down!!!

Lenda - Why do you have the same power output in different units quoted twice in your sig?
Cant you just say 134kw/170HP ATH and climbing or whatever...

']Lenda - Why do you have the same power output in different units quoted twice in your sig?
Cant you just say 134kw/170HP ATH and climbing or whatever...

those figures aren't equal either dude should be either (170h.p)=126.7kw or (134kw)=179h.p

Umm, he hasn't got time to just drop cams in? You're serious?

Take it elsewhere man, any decent performance shop should be able to drop the cams in/adjust the gears/tune it, not a huge job eh?

Now that the Moristech piggyback ECU is sorted for Magna V6's I would think anyone wanting to maximise the performance of their Magna's engine mods should be checking it out if they want the good stuff :badgrin:

See the "Some other options for supercharging" thread, lastest posts on there with it fitted to an AWD

well its in there :)

so excited, the only thing that crushed my hopes was that he said it could be 3 days it could be 2 weeks... now i hope he was joking, but im glad he has the car now he can start working on it straight away once the other cars have finished which im happy about. the spark is starting to ignite again :cool: it better take less than a week. anyways thats the update. and oh i will fix my figures up once i got the dyno sheets.

mike

cool,can't wait to hear this thing idle

it better take less than a week.

mike

lol it'll be there a month if he said 2 weeks. Thats how it works using shops to modify your car.

i was told one day...it was 5 days. When they have so much on, they just do whatever whenever. Having it in there is a good sign tho Mike. Not long now and I will have to change my signature :(

i also had a similar experience when i was told it was a one day job ended up being 5 day's

well its in there :)

so excited, the only thing that crushed my hopes was that he said it could be 3 days it could be 2 weeks... now i hope he was joking, but im glad he has the car now he can start working on it straight away once the other cars have finished which im happy about. the spark is starting to ignite again :cool: it better take less than a week. anyways thats the update. and oh i will fix my figures up once i got the dyno sheets.

mike


Good to here mate my cams arrived yesterday:D hope you get the figures your after will be keeping an eye on this thread closely

bet your anxious now hey Mike?????

i seem to be very anxious! i spoke to dave on monday and he told me it is going to be started on tuesday theoretically! gonna see if i can get in contact with him tommoz and see how things are rolling! hopefully rolling at 150kw atw :) hehe

keep you all updated.

mike

if you want i can see how its going when i go up there on friday
need to pick up a part for my brothers car

as long as it is in the garage getting worked on im happy! as long as it is not sitting outside!

hopefully i can pick it up friday arvo, might see you there!

mike

lets us know if your going to pick it up on friday
i'll meet you there just so i can be the first to have a listen lol
if it sounds good i might have to get some for myself :D

thats if it sounds any different, i hope it does :)

any news yet :)

Looking forward to seeing how this goes

im looking forward to it to :redface:

when i spoke to him yesterday, he said with any luck he will of finished pulling the engine apart last night, therefore he still has to install cams, cam gears, valve springs, port the combustion chamber, and tune it, and put it all back together :cry:

you know when someone says 3 days to two weeks i didnt think he actually ment two weeks :confused:

anyways i will let you know how i go.

mike

went down to RPW today to pick up the belt for my brothers car
saw your car in the work shop
just before i left they were about to load it onto the dyno
i should have stuck around for it but ah well
hopefully you get her back today :)

it wont happen mate, there putting the new heads on monday and the gotta put all the new gear in. lol are you sure it was the dyno, what time did you go. how is she looking? dirty?

mike

yeah pretty sure it was the dyno
dave said to the other guy to get the current car off the dyno so the magna could be loaded up
i asked him if it was a black one and he said yeah
was about 3.30 when i was there
looked ok, cleaner then mine lol

oh ok kool. must be a before and after :)

hope they get it done for you soon mate i know i would be pissed if i had to wait this long

g'day all...newbie here lol and a mechanical novice i must confess:redface:

Am looking at some "add-ons" to my TJ 2 manual......have exchanged a number of Pm's with Mike(thanks mate,am only after advice dont stress!)whilst awaiting my activation.
I Am in perth and dave thomas of RPW seems to be snowed under so perhaps he is not viable to assign to do the work i require.....any other recommended quality workmanship known of in this fair city?? Am likely to purchase most of the "minor" stuff from RPW as they are the only ones i know of aside from EZboy and his high flow throttle body(get back to me mate with details please?)..

work would entail fitment of...throttle body/thermo gasket kit,fuel pressure regulator(and accompanying fuel rail?) and the cold air intake kit as developed by RPW...any advice/experience to pass on would be appreciated gents :)

Neil.

g'day all...newbie here lol and a mechanical novice i must confess:redface:

Am looking at some "add-ons" to my TJ 2 manual......have exchanged a number of Pm's with Mike(thanks mate,am only after advice dont stress!)whilst awaiting my activation.
I Am in perth and dave thomas of RPW seems to be snowed under so perhaps he is not viable to assign to do the work i require.....any other recommended quality workmanship known of in this fair city?? Am likely to purchase most of the "minor" stuff from RPW as they are the only ones i know of aside from EZboy and his high flow throttle body(get back to me mate with details please?)..

work would entail fitment of...throttle body/thermo gasket kit,fuel pressure regulator(and accompanying fuel rail?) and the cold air intake kit as developed by RPW...any advice/experience to pass on would be appreciated gents :)

Neil.

i would be inclined to do a little more thorough researching on these mods you have listed to find out if they are worth the money or not. e.g FPR is not really needed esp manual, until you have some decent mods to warrant it...i dont even have one. You may also need to make a new thread as this is about Mikes mods.

g'day all...newbie here lol and a mechanical novice i must confess:redface:

Am looking at some "add-ons" to my TJ 2 manual......have exchanged a number of Pm's with Mike(thanks mate,am only after advice dont stress!)whilst awaiting my activation.
I Am in perth and dave thomas of RPW seems to be snowed under so perhaps he is not viable to assign to do the work i require.....any other recommended quality workmanship known of in this fair city?? Am likely to purchase most of the "minor" stuff from RPW as they are the only ones i know of aside from EZboy and his high flow throttle body(get back to me mate with details please?)..

work would entail fitment of...throttle body/thermo gasket kit,fuel pressure regulator(and accompanying fuel rail?) and the cold air intake kit as developed by RPW...any advice/experience to pass on would be appreciated gents :)

Neil.

hi mate,

check out the first page it will show you how much of an increase i got from each group of modifications. hope it helps. how serious are you going to go with your mods?

mike

i would be inclined to do a little more thorough researching on these mods you have listed to find out if they are worth the money or not. e.g FPR is not really needed esp manual, until you have some decent mods to warrant it...i dont even have one. You may also need to make a new thread as this is about Mikes mods.

thanks mate,i thought that what i was doing here asking questions...and in my research so far RPW have recommended these as stage 1 mods,so are they wrong you saying? what would you define as "decent mods" ? i only have pacemaker extractors,highflow cat and full 2.5 system at this stage.

Mike,dont worry ill liase with you in private and or via WA section rather than raid your thread:P

thanks mate,i thought that what i was doing here asking questions...and in my research so far RPW have recommended these as stage 1 mods,so are they wrong you saying? what would you define as "decent mods" ? i only have pacemaker extractors,highflow cat and full 2.5 system at this stage.

Mike,dont worry ill liase with you in private and or via WA section rather than raid your thread:P
Yeh its just if you want to raise questions about your ride, you need to start the thread. Thats cool I see you are looking in the WA section too. and in response, i would think what you have done would be stage 1 mods and the hiflow cat would come into stage2/3 mods as the factory one flows pretty well(unless yours was colapsed)also I just felt for the money you are looking at spending on an RPW CAI, could be put elsewhere as there are a lot of cheaper DIY options to find on here.

Tony

ok the good news is, so far no problems and the cams and valve springs have been installed into the heads. tomorrow the heads will be bolted back on. and wednesday arvo/night to thursday it will be tuned.

bad news i have work starting at 12 on thursday and dont finish till 8 :(

im really praying to the gods he will be finished by this time. anyone who is a church person, please you know what to do :cool: lol only joking.

mike

so which heads did you go for? the ported ones or you heads?

i went for the ported heads! i was thinking about leaving mine, but i thought whilst i was at it, and this might benefit me later on. it will makw the air flow better and hopefully make the car drive smoother expecially with these cams.

mike

Why do you have 2 units of power measurement in your sig when they both mean the exact same thing?

as i mentioned earlier i will fix it up when i have the new figures :)

mike

hey guys,

im just wondering, everything is installed, camgears just need to be dialled in and the car needs to be tuned, generally how long will this take? i am so far pleased with the work dave has done with my car this time, so far no problems, just taking a little to long thats all.

thanks mike

Dialing in is dyno time and so is the tune. probably a day to a day and a half. It is a lot of pissin around changing the cam gear settings and then probably tuning the ecu and playing with both of them to get whats best for your car. You wanna keep some low down torque at this stage while it is auto, and retune when you convert to manual.

Any updates

you got your car back yet?

i dont know if im angry or not because im really sick. but dave has been sick all week and his mechanic got sick on friday, so my car hasnt been touched since wednesday and is about 8 hours from being finished. cam gears still need to be dialled in, plenum installed, and the car needs to be tuned.

i was going to say he has done a really good job this time, except it has taken such as long time that the only problem, we will see when i get it.

anyways SHOULD have it back by tuesday.

mike

The more i hear about RPW, the more issues I begin to hear

ok got an update but still dont have the car!

the car is running fine so i hear, and everything is good, but when he went to tune it the o ring on the heater core in the engine bay cracked and sprayed water everywhere, he put a new seal on it and now it has done it again so he is going to put some sought of sealant on it to stop this from happening. so all good signs that the cams have been accepted and the car is running, he just needs to tune it. so sounds like he has done a good job and the car is running smoothly.

fingers crossed, i got uni this arvo, so i wont be able to pick it up until tomorrow morning, and i will let you know how i go.

finally things are starting to look up.

mike

ok got an update but still dont have the car!

the car is running fine so i hear, and everything is good, but when he went to tune it the o ring on the heater core in the engine bay cracked and sprayed water everywhere, he put a new seal on it and now it has done it again so he is going to put some sought of sealant on it to stop this from happening. so all good signs that the cams have been accepted and the car is running, he just needs to tune it. so sounds like he has done a good job and the car is running smoothly.

fingers crossed, i got uni this arvo, so i wont be able to pick it up until tomorrow morning, and i will let you know how i go.

finally things are starting to look up.

mike

Thats good to here Mike glad its finally coming together for you can wait to see the results and here it idol.:cool:

well i havent got the car back but he told me the figure... 146 kw ATW :) increased torque and hp over the whole range. more details will come once i got the dyno sheets etc...

hehe dont ask me how much it was though as this has blown out, and i need an explanation when i get there tomorrow.

thanks mike

well i havent got the car back but he told me the figure... 146 kw ATW :) increased torque and hp over the whole range. more details will come once i got the dyno sheets etc...
nice!


hehe dont ask me how much it was though as this has blown out, and i need an explanation when i get there tomorrow.

no way? :shock: /sacrasm

good luck getting an explanation that makes sense!

Thats almost the power some sprintexed cars make minus the torque!
Nice job indeed!

well i havent got the car back but he told me the figure... 146 kw ATW :) increased torque and hp over the whole range. more details will come once i got the dyno sheets etc...

hehe dont ask me how much it was though as this has blown out, and i need an explanation when i get there tomorrow.

thanks mike

That's awsome Mike. I do have to admit i am curious on the $$$ value to compare to see if mine was in the ball park or not. Lucky I changed my signature already, I was afraid of this:cry: lol
Also, can you find out if the cam gears were advanced or retarded. I have just recently found out how bad retarding them was for low down pace

hey guys, really happy with the car, drives great and has plenty of power, damn wet roads! if you have the time get stage 2 cams even if you have an auto, idol is a bit rough, but hey if you dont like it put it into nuetral and its smooth again. i will post up dyno sheets later.

146kw ATW at 4800 RPM

286 Nm torque ATW at 5000 RPM

Dave has done a great job with the car, it runs great there are no problems and the gearing is very smooth.

my only problem is my flex pipe of the extractors is very restrictive and needs replacing which might push me over the 150 mark :).

thankyou for all your time.

mike

wow superb gains there!

Do you mind listing excatly everything that was done to the car ?

Also, dyno sheets would be great :)

Here is when a did my first lot of mods:

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/4327/1002285oq9.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002285oq9.jpg)

Here is when i installed the cams and the head wor was done:

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/8661/1002286ac5.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1002286ac5.jpg)

here is what was done:

New timing belt kit
VRS Gasket kit
New oil filter
Camshafts
Valve springs
Cam gears
Cylinder heads stripped
Acid cleaned
Port and polished intake and exhaust ports
3 angle vlave on seats and back cut valves
Deburr combustion chamber
Face cylinder heads
Set valve heights

Proves to all the peeople who adviced against it and said it might loose power, shows sometimes its good to try new things out :).

umm those figures you gave are the flywheel figures. still, not bad

its at the wheels trust me!

he just hasnt changed what it says! if it was at the flywheel the car would have the same power as a standard car, which it doesnt.

umm those figures you gave are the flywheel figures. still, not bad

i thought they used a hub dyno(more accurate tuning)

aaah ok. What are the other lines, more faint in colour?

i dont know thats what i thought, and thats what he said for the first time, but this time he said the figure was wheels, but i think he ment hubs. i will confirm tomorrow, just for you guys. :)

mike

nah its all good, im sure it drives superbly! I have JUST started getting a bit more from mine, EZ Boy TB, new muffler etc etc

good times

This gives us a good comparison of what different mods can achieve.

Note : Lenda, the next things I am going to say are in no way saying your car is bad :)

Its interesting to note, that a previous, Manual car, with headwork was dynoed at 170kw at the wheels, although, it did have pajero pistions in it (10:1 ratio).

Goes to show, that stage 2 might not always give the best gains.

That side, looks like a fair decent bit of power. Goodluck mate

well once i change my flex pipe since that is the most restrictive part atm, that may push me to 150kw, then if/when i convert my car to manual, i might get to 160kw ATW, so it would be close :).

mike

well once i change my flex pipe since that is the most restrictive part atm, that may push me to 150kw, then if/when i convert my car to manual, i might get to 160kw ATW, so it would be close :).

mike

It would be yes. But it also goes to show what I told told (aswell as others) when you first told us you were going Stage 2 cams. Often, without the supporting mods, you wont get more power.

Always important to remember guys, bigger does not always equal better in our motors.

Again mate, no offence, im loving your car :D

This gives us a good comparison of what different mods can achieve.

Note : Lenda, the next things I am going to say are in no way saying your car is bad :)

Its interesting to note, that a previous, Manual car, with headwork was dynoed at 170kw at the wheels, although, it did have pajero pistions in it (10:1 ratio).

Goes to show, that stage 2 might not always give the best gains.

That side, looks like a fair decent bit of power. Goodluck mate

...if Lendas was manual and when it is manual i reckon he will easily get 170kw + out of it. Remember that these autos are dragging around 30% from the flywheel. Look at a famous model...Blackbeard, who gained around 20kw atw without so much as any cam work placing auto mods(predominatley breathing) into a manual. I have stage ones and a plenum and have 137kwatw. So I reckon what he has got is good.
Lenda you will bump well over 150 with a plenum. Its a shame you didn't put one on with this upgrade. But i know what its like $$$$ wise(and you prob want ezboys) well done mate

hey guys, just a quick question, with regards to the throttle there is a little bit of slack, so when i push it down i get nothing until a certain point. iv spoken to a few mechanics this morning and they rekon leave it, because its getting 100% throttle, and if you tighten it to much it can pull the throttle body out of position by a few mm. any ideas?

a bit of an analysis on how it drives: smooth, plenty of power up top, the only time when it needs to be pushed or drop it back a gear is on an incline and im in fourth, the car doesnt wantr to accelerate, but i kinda expected that.

the people that saw my car last night, are you able to tell a difference in the sound at all whilst im driving? i know when idling its awsome, in my opinion, but im always in the car whilst its moving

thanks for your opinions

mike

it was hard to tell from were i was standing but it did sound more aggresive when you planted it,mabee putting the pod down behind the font bar would make it sound better rather than it being in the engine bay were the induction noise is muffled,it would also stop hot air being sucked in by the engine

tighten your throttle cable, and then put a stopper under your accelerator pedal which hits at full throttle. that'll stop you from planting your foot and torquing the hell out of the throttle body.

cheers,
.wook

Keep in mind hub dynos read higher than roller dynos, will be interesing to see what kind of figure you get on an "realistic" roller dyno and, and what trapspeed you get at the drags.

One thing I find strange/interesting is that your peak power is actually at less revs, 5000rpm from the graph you provided. I find this really odd, that you are making peak power at less revs than a stock motor, when the cam profile you are running is supposed to promote more of a top-end oriented power delivery.

Did RPW advance the cams alot to move the powerband lower and retain driiveability with the low CR? Even so, to be making peak power at only 5000rpm seems very peculiar to me indeed. With RPW's "Stage 2" profile, I would have expected peak power to be occuring at somewhere around the 5700-5900 rpm mark. Would be very interested to hear what RPM to have say about this.

I don't understand why you retained the 9:1 pistons and didn't go to 10:1 pajero pistons, which would have cost only a fraction on top of what you have already spent anyway. But I'm glad to hear you seem happy with the results :)

Proves to all the peeople who adviced against it and said it might loose power, shows sometimes its good to try new things out :).

I don't think anyone suggesed you'd lose peak power, just that with insufficient CR and no headwork (which I believe was your original intention?). I suggested your top-end gains would be relatively poor for the cam profile, and that you'd lose bottom-end and midrange, in comparison to if you had more static compression.

I'm 100% sure your exact motor with 10:1 pistons would be significantly more responsive and powerful at low-mid rpm, and be a little stronger up top too.

Glad to see you got the headwork to go with the cams, I think it would have been a bit of a disaster otherwise. I was told by someone who has built many magna motors (for racing in IPRA in SA) that even with the stock ralliart cams, 10-15wkw was gained from good headwork. So I'd hate to think how much top end breathin would be strangled by a significantly "bigger" cam than the ralliart one.

I'm 100% sure your exact motor with 10:1 pistons would be significantly more responsive and powerful at low-mid rpm, and be a little stronger up top too.

Excatly. I know we keep refering to the same car, but 170fwkw out of a stage 1 cam profile is, in my books easily reachable. When you start thinking that this is about the same power as a stockish LS1 commy, our magna engines are amazing.

Excatly. I know we keep refering to the same car, but 170fwkw out of a stage 1 cam profile is, in my books easily reachable. When you start thinking that this is about the same power as a stockish LS1 commy, our magna engines are amazing.

Well IMO to make a genuine 170wkw with our motors you'd need a cam profile along the lines of RPW's "stage2", or a bit "bigger". But yes I agree, if things are done properly great results can be had from our magna motors in NA form - not just in terms of a peak power figure, but the overall package of response/power across the whole revrange, and the way it sounds.

A motor that makes a pretty peak figure is one thing, that magical well-built NA motor that does it with great response and power everywhere in the revrange is something else :)

Of course with NA motors you do reach a point where they become doughy/rough outside of their "powerband". But when when things are done right it's remarkable how much top-end and midrange power you can gain before you start getting serious losses in driveability.

all we need now is a WA place for manual conversions.
i looked into finding a manual vr-x, and decided it would be cheaper to convert myself.
so just waiting on the finance and somewhere to do it.

i think RPW would be the place to be, as they seem to play around with magnas more then anybody else. unless somebody from perth can tell me otherwise..
i think DIY is DEFINITELY out of the question..

i think ive gotta come down to the next meet and check out this car of yours, its sounding better all the time.

Hi Mike

bet your glad to finally have your car back and happy with the results
looking forward to hearing some sound clips of the car idling and maybe some
of you giving it a boot full.

I am very glad to have my car back :)

Idol is awsome :)

The drive doesnt sound hugely different but about 2800 revs there is alot more power :cool:

In the rain i need semi slicks :redface:

How much do flex pipes usually cost as this will be my next item?

mike

I don't think anyone suggesed you'd lose peak power, just that with insufficient CR and no headwork (which I believe was your original intention?). I suggested your top-end gains would be relatively poor for the cam profile, and that you'd lose bottom-end and midrange, in comparison to if you had more static compression.

I'm 100% sure your exact motor with 10:1 pistons would be significantly more responsive and powerful at low-mid rpm, and be a little stronger up top too.

Glad to see you got the headwork to go with the cams, I think it would have been a bit of a disaster otherwise. I was told by someone who has built many magna motors (for racing in IPRA in SA) that even with the stock ralliart cams, 10-15wkw was gained from good headwork. So I'd hate to think how much top end breathin would be strangled by a significantly "bigger" cam than the ralliart one.
if he did go for a 10:1 compression, would he have had to use 98 RON fuel? as the higher compression increases the risk of detonation. or is 10:1 still safe to use a 91 or 95 RON?
as i remember someone stating that the reason why MMAL only increased the ralliart CR to 9.4:1 because any higher would require at least 95RON

if he did go for a 10:1 compression, would he have had to use 98 RON fuel? as the higher compression increases the risk of detonation. or is 10:1 still safe to use a 91 or 95 RON?
as i remember someone stating that the reason why MMAL only increased the ralliart CR to 9.4:1 because any higher would require at least 95RON

10:1 really isn't that high, I imagine there would be no problem runing 95 or even 91 octane if you really wanted to (you'd need to back off the ignition timing appropriately).

But there would be absolutely no point in this. A car with 10:1 CR and a suitable tune would get great results from 98 RON fuel, the extra cost would be offset by the performance and economy gained over lower RON fuels, so it's a no-brainer (unless availability is an issue for you).



In the rain i need semi slicks :redface:


Trust me, you don't. Semi-slicks aren't particularly pleasant to use in the wet (though some are better than others).

i find semi's arn't great when cold in the wet but once they've got a bit of heat in them i find there better than the old kuhmo ecsta's i had on there before,that's just my personal opinion though.

i find semi's arn't great when cold in the wet but once they've got a bit of heat in them i find there better than the old kuhmo ecsta's i had on there before,that's just my personal opinion though.

Which semis ?

Falken RT615's

Falken RT615's

Not a "true" semi slick there mate. Those tyres are street tyres, with a very aggressive tread design.

if he did go for a 10:1 compression, would he have had to use 98 RON fuel? as the higher compression increases the risk of detonation. or is 10:1 still safe to use a 91 or 95 RON?
as i remember someone stating that the reason why MMAL only increased the ralliart CR to 9.4:1 because any higher would require at least 95RON

i already run 98 RON fuel! so that isnt a factor for me. i will also be doing this in the future, although not sure what to do first. im really enjoying driving the auto like this, and everyone that has sat in my car so far has liked it to. really smoooth etc... although ni have always wanted a manual and im not sure if the auto can handle a worked short engine. any opinions on this.

ps: before this happens i will upgrading my brakes especially after sitting in tysons car with his brakes and his semi slicks. that was a good ride :)

mike

ps: before this happens i will upgrading my brakes especially after sitting in tysons car with his brakes and his semi slicks. that was a good ride :)

mike

Brembos or nothing :)

lol believe it or not i probably could fit them behind my mags :)

lol believe it or not i probably could fit them behind my mags :)

Ha ha, thats what I thought.

And i was wrong. Gone through 2 different sets of mags, one a set of 20s, and a set of 18s hoping the calipers would fit.

They honestly are massive units

Ha ha, thats what I thought.

And i was wrong. Gone through 2 different sets of mags, one a set of 20s, and a set of 18s hoping the calipers would fit.

They honestly are massive units

Damn :( oh well, i was thinking going with AWD calipers with braided lines and slotted rotors, not sure on pads yet.

mike

yer i do realise there not a full semi slick but there a big improvement over the old tyre's allowing much higher cornering speeds trust me.

agreed brembo's would be great but the 380 calipers came up cheap ($220 the pair) from a wreckers so i went with them and from what i had read they were a great great improvement over the single piston calipers,when my mechanic was showing me the difference in pad surface area it looked to be 2.5 times greater and you can really feel it needing much less pedal pressure to achieve the same amount of braking.

i think lenda's wheels have about 50-70mm of clearance between the spoke and the current calipers.

anyway back on topic

yer i do realise there not a full semi slick but there a big improvement over the old tyre's allowing much higher cornering speeds trust me.

agreed brembo's would be great but the 380 calipers came up cheap ($220 the pair) from a wreckers so i went with them and from what i had read they were a great great improvement over the single piston calipers,when my mechanic was showing me the difference in pad surface area it looked to be 2.5 times greater and you can really feel it needing much less pedal pressure to achieve the same amount of braking.

i think lenda's wheels have about 50-70mm of clearance between the spoke and the current calipers.

anyway back on topic

I have to agree. The 380 is a good differance over the standard brakes. I paid $350 for the calipers rotors and lines(only 6 months old) I recently upgraded to 380 calipers and rotors, and found the fading feel was not evident. I tested this from 150kmh at willowbank the other night. just wanted to keep slowing down hard with out spongy pedal feel. considering the 380 is a heavier vehicle, i think they are well suited to the magna. If you want looks and a lighter pocket then maybe go brembos.

ok time for a stupid question... how do you tighten the accelerator cable? to undid the two 10mm bolts and slide the metal bracket and it didnt do anything, am i doing this wrong?

thanks mike

ok time for a stupid question... how do you tighten the accelerator cable? to undid the two 10mm bolts and slide the metal bracket and it didnt do anything, am i doing this wrong?

thanks mike

That should've taken the slack up. Partially loosen the bolts rather than remove them, and tap the slide along with a heavy spanner/shifter to obtain desired tension. Then retighten. Done.

* There are 2 x sets of bolts, did you undo the top ones? They're the correct ones, the other 2 bolts just hold the bracket onto the plenum. Don't overtighten when you fasten them or you WILL snap one, I did once a long time ago :redface:

did u slide it all the way to the right?

the other thing is how do you think your plenum will go with my car, looking at the dyno, do you think it will help with that dip on the dyno? :cool:

i think lenda's wheels have about 50-70mm of clearance between the spoke and the current calipers.

anyway back on topic

From the top of my head you need either 11cm or 13cm (cant remember excatly) between the spokes of the wheels, to the disk in order to fit the brembos.

ok fixed up the accelerator cable, bit more responsive now :)... driven it in the dry, it is very responsive, very smooth, and lots of power above 3 G. damn speed limits hehe. i went out on neaves road and grt northern highway, very happy with how the car went. lacking power between 2-3 G, but not like its a flat spot, just a noticible difference in power.

ok a few people have asked me for a sound clip. my camera takes videos, so how do i put them on the forum? its not very good quility, but better than nothing :)

mike

Edit: future plans = 2.5 inch flex pipe and a new intake manifold, and see how the car reacts.

Youtube, Viddler, even Imageshack does it mate :-)

Youtube, Viddler, even Imageshack does it mate :-)

do i load it the same way i load pictures???

thanks for the quick response

do i load it the same way i load pictures???

thanks for the quick response

Yep mate go to Imageshack its easy

Re 98 or 65ron, always tune to the highest octane available to you. It'll let you run more advance and hence more power.

so dont be tuning it for V Power Racing, because it wont be around for much longer lol

so dont be tuning it for V Power Racing, because it wont be around for much longer lol
It disappeared two weeks ago here in Brisbane, I have flicked back to my 98 map now.

wow that soon? Last weekend i know that the Shell on Pennant Hills Rd in western sydney was still selling it

very disappointed :( took the car down to the drags tonight, to see how she went, no improvement in times at all actually slightly slower. I either had to much wheel spin or when i didnt load it up, it just bogged down. I think the car actually is slightly slower than before, at the 660 foot speed the car was doing 114.04 before now it was doing 116.50 and at the finish line 144.84, now its doing 144.55. go figure :rant:

I think my shocks are also buggered, very soft, and now and then make clunking noises, got any suggestions on types and prices for stiff shock absorbers? the other thing is i think i might have to get semi slicks, ifi cant get this launch right. sorry im not in a very good mood. on the bright side got some comments on how coool it sounded.

mike

Koni, koni, koni, koni =)

Koni, koni, koni, koni =)

haha thanks for that mate.

Has anyone tried the pedders shock absorbers?

I dont know if this would of made much of a difference with my time, but i was wondering this morning but last night I was changing at 6G, because i thought bigger cams, equals more power up high. totally forgetting about the dyno sheet, which had peak power closer to 5G. i will try this next time. man i am frustrated. another mate of mine said the cams could be bogging the gearbox down, i dont know about that though. any thought?

there's several schools of thought about when to shift. sometimes it makes sense to shift early (short shift into a bend, instead of having to shift halfway through the bend for example), but that doesn't apply to the drag strip.

looking at your dyno printouts will give you a good idea of when to shift. personally, I wouldn't shift right as you get to your peak power, but hold it while the power starts to drop away. that way, when you shift into the next gear it's at a higher rev and likely to be making more power.

for example, using your dyno sheet, at 6k RPM you're making as much power as at 4k (about 117kw). I can't recall (and cbf'd working out) how many revs the auto drops between gears, but let's assume it's 2k... that means you keep pushing until 6k and then shift. if you shift earlier, say 5k, it'll drop down to 3k at which you're making 82kw as opposed to 117kw at 4k.

I guess the best thing to do is work out how many revs the auto drops for each gear change, and compare that to your dyno sheet to figure out the best place to shift for each gear and stay in the power band. with that torque curve being fairly flat from 3.6k to 4.8k, I'd wouldn't want to drop it below 3.6k on the upshift.

cheers,
.wook

get DSG lol..

but yeh i agree with wook.. thought about maybe using a 5spd tippy rather than going full manual? from what i've seen they feel a bit perkier with the different ratio's.. much better than a 4spd at least.. you can try and up the line pressure a little more to shift faster.. but would also be a bit harsher..

ok the speed thing doesnt worry me to much, as i found a slip, on my first run, which wasnt to bad but still slower, because of my 60 foot time = disgrace. anyways speed at 660 115.63, which is slower than my fastest time due to my 60 foot speed, but at the finish line i was doing 145.13, which i am happy about, i was shifting about 5800 revs this time, instead of stretching it out like on my other runs. Speaking to a few people today, if i can get grip with a good launch and load it up a little without spinning, and get my gear changes right, they rekon i can get my time down to 15.0. :cool: im a bit doubtful but we will see.

my idea in the next few months is to upgrade shocks, stop the bouncing and the nose lifting up on take of, get a bigger flex pipe, any idea on the size of the standard one? and get an ezboy plenum :). just gotta save up some money first and the shocks must come first as they are a bit stuffed.

mike

get DSG lol..

but yeh i agree with wook.. thought about maybe using a 5spd tippy rather than going full manual? from what i've seen they feel a bit perkier with the different ratio's.. much better than a 4spd at least.. you can try and up the line pressure a little more to shift faster.. but would also be a bit harsher..

I would do as said...hold the gears longer. I feel ya pain tho. I did all of my mods and ran a faster 60 foot time when it was a stock sports. I did get a better e.t by reving out a little longer. I need to advance my cams to get a better 60 foot....then 14's will be there up in lights. I also am considering the pedders. been recommended over KYB and monroe but a little harsher on ride. Still like to try em.

I would do as said...hold the gears longer. I feel ya pain tho. I did all of my mods and ran a faster 60 foot time when it was a stock sports. I did get a better e.t by reving out a little longer. I need to advance my cams to get a better 60 foot....then 14's will be there up in lights. I also am considering the pedders. been recommended over KYB and monroe but a little harsher on ride. Still like to try em.

This is what I am aiming for... a 14 second car.

From the above mentioned things i want for my car and a good launch i should get this according to me :) and a few other people whom race cars at the drags regularely. It was a major problem getting grip, as everytime i loaded it up i spun way to much and if i didnt load it up and bogged down. god it was annoying. :rant: anyway enough of my ranting.

Weird...
Man go a manual GB (Unless you cant?)
Boozers TL VRX Ran a 14.8 stock (With Type40 driving:bowrofl: )

']Weird...
Man go a manual GB (Unless you cant?)
Boozers TL VRX Ran a 14.8 stock (With Type40 driving:bowrofl: )

dont say that, thats annoys me even more now. so would i still go slower than before even if i had a manual or not, this is what comfuses me.

dont say that, thats annoys me even more now. so would i still go slower than before even if i had a manual or not, this is what comfuses me.
if you can drive a manual properly then no

no def not. (driver dependannt lol)The gear ratio on the auto...esp 4 spd is holding you back, but also manuals just launch quicker even after wheel spin is controlled. i think that 14.8 came out of Boozers car was a manual btw. Convert to manual.
I also think loading it up does nothing but increase your 60ft times. I was doing that a few weeks back, and next time I go out i will not load up. Also, i had better 60ft times with TCL on, even though it distorted the timing to get going, wheels did not spin

I remember readin an article in regards to manual Magnas. It basically graphed the power (or was it torque) levels in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears with rpm.

There was more power (torque) all the way to cutoff in first gear then there was anywhere in second.

Cant remember the exact measurments, but, it showed that its best to rev past peak power inorder to achieve the best times.

I have know got some sports ryder gas shocks front and back on order and a strut brace as well. I know the strut brace wont help, but is extra weight in the front :)... and looks cool, and the shocks will hopefully stop my car from being so bouncy and lifting up so easily when taking of.

Thanks for your replies.

Mike