Well its been a few days since i did my intake mods so I thought its time to get out tonight and do some more 0-100 times for a comparision. Same senario, TCL off,left in auto, a little colder tonight (8 v's 11) and the road did seem a little grippier ,maybe better launch technique? With some intentional hard launches to get a feel for traction I noticed the car would wheel spin much harder than before . My first couple attempts weren't great,with to much wheelspin and the auto changing abit too early, but still faster than previous 7.7 v 7.85 ! Once my launches improved I started reeling of consistant low 7.6's then .5's, .4s and then finishing with a string of low 7.3's. I did get one very,very good launch in with a 7.2 .Read what you like into these times in regards to air temp ,road conditions ,driver etc but they were repeatable and,if anything,show that the $300 I spent was definately worth it.:woot:

Well its been a few days since i did my intake mods so I thought its time to get out tonight and do some more 0-100 times for a comparision. Same senario, TCL off,left in auto, a little colder tonight (8 v's 11) and the road did seem a little grippier ,maybe better launch technique? With some intentional hard launches to get a feel for traction I noticed the car would wheel spin much harder than before . My first couple attempts weren't great,with to much wheelspin and the auto changing abit too early, but still faster than previous 7.7 v 7.85 ! Once my launches improved I started reeling of consistant low 7.6's then .5's, .4s and then finishing with a string of low 7.3's. I did get one very,very good launch in with a 7.2 .Read what you like into these times in regards to air temp ,road conditions ,driver etc but they were repeatable and,if anything,show that the $300 I spent was definately worth it.:woot:

Certainly an improvement there! I tried a few 0-100 runs the other night also. 10 degrees, bugger all fuel and in manual mode with traction off....bit of a stall and nice progressive throttle application to stop the wheelspin. Best I could conjour up was 7.39....And people thought these cars were slow :hmm:

Standard intake vs 90 mm = approx 3-4 kw & 4-5 nm difference.

Certainly an improvement there! I tried a few 0-100 runs the other night also. 10 degrees, bugger all fuel and in manual mode with traction off....bit of a stall and nice progressive throttle application to stop the wheelspin. Best I could conjour up was 7.39....And people thought these cars were slow :hmm:

The 380s have a better power to wieght ratio than the TW VRXs, but not by alot though

I did get one very,very good launch in with a 7.2 .Read what you like into these times in regards to air temp ,road conditions ,driver etc but they were repeatable and,if anything,show that the $300 I spent was definately worth it.:woot:

Good going. have you done the muffler? I can't tell from your info page...

You've actually highlighted a point. Practising a lot before going to the drags would be really beneficial for a good time.
Do you remember how you got that good launch? Did you pre-load the torque converter?

Good going. have you done the muffler? I can't tell from your info page...

You've actually highlighted a point. Practising a lot before going to the drags would be really beneficial for a good time.
Do you remember how you got that good launch? Did you pre-load the torque converter?

Nah, no muffler yet just the 90mm,K&N,bottom res mod and the thermobloc.My technique was the same a Mikey's. Load the converter up(about 1500rpm) just let the brake off and feed in the accelarator slowly,you got to be patient,if you stab the pedal or just get in to it a bit to much, dreaded wheelspin! Once she's hooked up just mash it. I reckon a good technique on a prepared (sticky) drag strip would see good results. With mods like yours you'd have to be in the high 6's and break into the 14's for the 1/4 I would guess! I think these mods actually make the traction problem worse with the improved throttle response etc, it would be good to move the torque up a little higher in the rev range.I wonder if this is somehow achievable with these piggybacks?

Nah, no muffler yet just the 90mm,K&N,bottom res mod and the thermobloc.

Seriously, the muffler will give you the biggest gain. Get rid of the middle cat while you are at it. You'll find the rev range from 3500-6000rpm will be opened up and you will think you have a different engine.


My technique was the same a Mikey's. Load the converter up(about 1500rpm) just let the brake off and feed in the accelarator slowly,you got to be patient,if you stab the pedal or just get in to it a bit to much, dreaded wheelspin! Once she's hooked up just mash it. I reckon a good technique on a prepared (sticky) drag strip would see good results.
Yep, patience is the key. I wasn't. At one stage I just mashed it from the start and lost 1/2 second over the whole 400m straight away. :nuts:


With mods like yours you'd have to be in the high 6's and break into the 14's for the 1/4 I would guess!
That'd be nice, where's the Stig???


I think these mods actually make the traction problem worse with the improved throttle response etc, it would be good to move the torque up a little higher in the rev range.I wonder if this is somehow achievable with these piggybacks?
No. A new cam profile would be the key. You could retard the existing cams a little but that would hurt everyday driving.

I ordered the 90mm intake to day fromhttp://www.rchillmitsu.com/.

It is costing $16.80 AUD for the snorkel and shipping is still being determined. I think it should be around the $45 mark.

I will let you know once I receive it.

Yep, patience is the key. I wasn't. At one stage I just mashed it from the start and lost 1/2 second over the whole 400m straight away. :nuts:

Seriously, the muffler will give you the biggest gain. Get rid of the middle cat while you are at it. You'll find the rev range from 3500-6000rpm will be opened up and you will think you have a different engine.


I learnt that pretty quickly. mashing the pedal certainly does not get you anywhere in a rush. All about the progressive throttle.

Just on the middle cat. How much would it be to fit a straight pipe to replace the middle cat?....would that be illegal even though it has 2 on the extractors..and how would that fair with warranty, emission lights on the dash board etc. Sorry about all the questions lol im just curious as I would not mind a bit more shove at all!

Just on the middle cat. How much would it be to fit a straight pipe to replace the middle cat?....would that be illegal even though it has 2 on the extractors..and how would that fair with warranty, emission lights on the dash board etc. Sorry about all the questions lol im just curious as I would not mind a bit more shove at all!

Cost would be low - my sports system with Supercat muffler cost me ~ $300. No effect on CEL for me; although I've just realised that my whole exhaust was replaced from the exhaust flange where the two banks meet, so that means the exhaust shop must have relocated the rear O2 sensors...hmmmm. They did a good job! Next time it's on a hoist I'll check out what they did.

Warranty depends on the dealer. My dealer sent me to the exhaust shop :D

Can anyone tell me how load the berklee muffler is??? I just put a vrx muffler on my 3.0v6 TE wagon, now that sounds good.:facejump: Is the berklee simular???

Can anyone tell me how load the berklee muffler is??? I just put a vrx muffler on my 3.0v6 TE wagon, now that sounds good.:facejump: Is the berklee simular???

Yep, pretty much identical. The VRX muffler you have is most likely a Lukey LR2779 or similar, and the Berklee BS0655 is much the same in size and internal construction. I think it's 2" shorter than the LR2779 - 20" v 22" - so maybe a tiny bit louder.

KJ.

From inside, the Berklee doesn't sound overly loud, even at idle. But when I met up with Blue380 a while back (to test drive his VRX with chopped lower resonator), I noticed when he left his Berklee sounded much louder than I expected. A nice note.

Cost would be low - my sports system with Supercat muffler cost me ~ $300. No effect on CEL for me; although I've just realised that my whole exhaust was replaced from the exhaust flange where the two banks meet, so that means the exhaust shop must have relocated the rear O2 sensors...hmmmm. They did a good job! Next time it's on a hoist I'll check out what they did.

Warranty depends on the dealer. My dealer sent me to the exhaust shop :D

Awesome. I shall have to pop into my local dealer and question the heck out of them on it and see if they recommend someone. Would it make for a more crackly/burbly note over just a muffler change? Im happy with the burble my car makes with just the muffler but wouldnt mind a bit more of an aggressive note

From inside, the Berklee doesn't sound overly loud, even at idle. But when I met up with Blue380 a while back (to test drive his VRX with chopped lower resonator), I noticed when he left his Berklee sounded much louder than I expected. A nice note.

See, thats my problem! If I do this rear muffler thing then fit extractors later and it becomes hell noisy,well i'm gonna have to spend more money correcting it.As its our daily driver I don't want it loud,just abit more than standard but with extractors fitted and i'll(ie,the missus) will be happy! That's why I think I might start from the front and work backwards,does that sound backward?:nuts: I think were getting alittle of topic here too sorry! See muffler thread I guess!

Grubco, Does the berklee drone at all with the auto?

Grubco, Does the berklee drone at all with the auto?

No, not at all. At times it sounds too quiet (from inside the car) but it still has a nice note at idle. As I recently mentioned elsewhere, my wife often complained about the sound reverberationg through the house, from the garage, when I start the car at 5am. I used to let it warm up for a few minutes... that soon got banned.
Anyway if you want something better (ie less restrictive), a little sporty, but not overall-stupid loud, I'd definately recommend the Berklee - and probably all the other people here who have one too.

See, thats my problem! If I do this rear muffler thing then fit extractors later and it becomes hell noisy,well i'm gonna have to spend more money correcting it.As its our daily driver I don't want it loud,just abit more than standard but with extractors fitted and i'll(ie,the missus) will be happy! That's why I think I might start from the front and work backwards,does that sound backward?:nuts: I think were getting alittle of topic here too sorry! See muffler thread I guess!

I noticed a few people here who started with Berklee mufflers and later did the extractors, then had to drop the Berklee because overall the exhaust was too loud. Plus if you upgrade to twin mufflers (ie 1 on both sides) you also have to drop the Berklee as another one won't fit underneath the other side. And it also gets in the way if you have a tow-bar.
I'm also not sure about the sound increase from extractors, but it stands to reason the exhaust would be louder. I think my overall exhaust noise is just right now (especially on the wife front; not a fan of loud exhausts).
If a different muffler was required to combat new noise issues, then (from a point of view) the Berklee was a waste of money.

I noticed a few people here who started with Berklee mufflers and later did the extractors, then had to drop the Berklee because overall the exhaust was too loud. Plus if you upgrade to twin mufflers (ie 1 on both sides) you also have to drop the Berklee as another one won't fit underneath the other side. And it also gets in the way if you have a tow-bar.
I'm also not sure about the sound increase from extractors, but it stands to reason the exhaust would be louder. I think my overall exhaust noise is just right now (especially on the wife front; not a fan of loud exhausts).
If a different muffler was required to combat new noise issues, then (from a point of view) the Berklee was a waste of money.

The exhaust sound is definitely louder with the extractors as the precats act like mufflers too. Going to a metal cat underneath the car as well will add more noise.

The exhaust sound is definitely louder with the extractors as the precats act like mufflers too. Going to a metal cat underneath the car as well will add more noise.

Yeah? Okay, might check that out one day. What's the best brand for these?

EDIT: Cancel all that. I just read the reply in another thread. I'll shelf this cat idea until/if I do the headers.

Yeah? Okay, might check that out one day. What's the best brand for these?

EDIT: Cancel all that. I just read the reply in another thread. I'll shelf this cat idea until/if I do the headers.

I think witewalzs has the idea, start from the front & get it right the first time. We all have added extractors etc later then had to back peddle to get the sound/noise right.

Yeah. But the affordability of those "basic" mods made them irresistable at that time. I'd also like to upgrade to a dual system, which would not only see the Berklee get turfed but see the purchase of 2 new mufflers... so yeah starting from the front could have been a wiser direction.

Well, I have heard back from http://www.rchillmitsu.com.

The part is currently on backorder, should receive it in the next 3 weeks.

The total price for the snorkel from the USA will be $78.15

I am about to get the 3" snorkel but have already "adjusted" the resonance chamber by drilling 5 x 1" holes with a wood drill in the rear lower side of it. I was getting around 10.5 l/100km prior to that and am now getting between 9.2-9.25 l/100 kms normal run around and down to 8.2 on a trip. Throttle response has increased. Still running the paper filter for the time being but am looking at the K and N for the next change.
Also looking at fitting the thermoblock gaskets to the inlet manifold and throttle body with heat shield tape to insulate manifold from exhaust manifold below. This will decrease the air temp of air arriving at the head when the car is running hot making it denser with more oxygen hence better burn and more power. I will do this when I have to do the plugs next to kill 2 birds with one stone.
I have noted that a few guys have just removed the smaller snorkel altogether. This will increase airflow but you will be sucking in hot air from the engine bay so the effect will be greatly negated as you have found out.
Am interested if changing the rear muffler has made a noted difference in power/economy. Anyone have any stats there or on the difference with 3" snorkel and the K and N?

Hey fooz!
With all the mods you have done have you thought that the crappy original brakes may need an upgrade? there are a couple of options from both DBA and RDA.

I am about to get the 3" snorkel but have already "adjusted" the resonance chamber by drilling 5 x 1" holes with a wood drill in the rear lower side of it. I was getting around 10.5 l/100km prior to that and am now getting between 9.2-9.25 l/100 kms normal run around and down to 8.2 on a trip. Throttle response has increased. Still running the paper filter for the time being but am looking at the K and N for the next change.
Also looking at fitting the thermoblock gaskets to the inlet manifold and throttle body with heat shield tape to insulate manifold from exhaust manifold below. This will decrease the air temp of air arriving at the head when the car is running hot making it denser with more oxygen hence better burn and more power. I will do this when I have to do the plugs next to kill 2 birds with one stone.
I have noted that a few guys have just removed the smaller snorkel altogether. This will increase airflow but you will be sucking in hot air from the engine bay so the effect will be greatly negated as you have found out.
Am interested if changing the rear muffler has made a noted difference in power/economy. Anyone have any stats there or on the difference with 3" snorkel and the K and N?

You will get a noticeable difference in power and economy when replacing just the rear muffler.

I am about to get the 3" snorkel but have already "adjusted" the resonance chamber by drilling 5 x 1" holes with a wood drill in the rear lower side of it. I was getting around 10.5 l/100km prior to that and am now getting between 9.2-9.25 l/100 kms normal run around and down to 8.2 on a trip. Throttle response has increased. Still running the paper filter for the time being but am looking at the K and N for the next change.
Also looking at fitting the thermoblock gaskets to the inlet manifold and throttle body with heat shield tape to insulate manifold from exhaust manifold below. This will decrease the air temp of air arriving at the head when the car is running hot making it denser with more oxygen hence better burn and more power. I will do this when I have to do the plugs next to kill 2 birds with one stone.
I have noted that a few guys have just removed the smaller snorkel altogether. This will increase airflow but you will be sucking in hot air from the engine bay so the effect will be greatly negated as you have found out.
Am interested if changing the rear muffler has made a noted difference in power/economy. Anyone have any stats there or on the difference with 3" snorkel and the K and N?

Yeah plenty of stats mate,ya just need to do abit of reading! Pg 27 would be a start!and theres plenty more!:hmm:

the crappy original brakes
If they are so crappy, why are magna drivers going mad upgrading their brakes to 380 ones?

because they are deprived? lol

If they are so crappy, why are magna drivers going mad upgrading their brakes to 380 ones?

A FWD magna weighs around 150-200kgs lighter than a 380 beached whale, so the 380 brake upgrade is a cheap and effective on the magna (its a similar setup to the ralliart magna front brakes except the 380 rotors are 28mm thick compared to ralliart magnas 24mm thick)

Spot on Jason. Jimmy there is a noticable difference in the weight and rotors and pads on the 380 and the magna. The fact is that the standard rotors on many large cars are inadequate for repeated heavy braking. I have spoken with the company who does my brakes prior to buying a 380 and they know their stuff and they stated that there were problems with warpage on the standard rotors. They know me and are not trying to drum up business (sry that wasnt meant to be a pun lol). DBA also have noted the problem and at the request of Police have made a rotor/pad package for the Police 380's (they say that the Ford hwy patrol cars are really bad at warpage too btw). I beleive RPW prefer RDA rotors and pads. I am still deciding between the two.

thanks witewalz that saves ready thru the whole thread.

witewalzs you sound like you have done the mods that I am about to do. I havent noted any before/after fuel figures. Any idea on the difference?

witewalzs you sound like you have done the mods that I am about to do. I havent noted any before/after fuel figures. Any idea on the difference?

With those mods, I think you should be getting around the mid 10s around town and around mid 8s when on the freeway.

If you do these mods,

Full exhaust system and headers
90mm intake with K&N
98octane fuel
tuned (Chiptorque piggback ecu)

You should be seeing below 10 around town and below 8 on the freeway. Power wise you will be looking around the 160-170kw ATW mark.

If you have a manual, you consumption probably will be a bit more

Hope this helps :happy:

Thanks Braedz that does give me some idea. May just look at the rear muffler but the chip torque piggy back ecu sounds interesting. The factory setting is notoriously rich. Any ideas on companies that do it. I notice that you are from SA so that may not be relevant, but I would be interested in who and how much. Thanks again for you reply mate.

Hey fooz!
With all the mods you have done have you thought that the crappy original brakes may need an upgrade? there are a couple of options from both DBA and RDA.

Still on the original brakepads so far mate & they have been ok. When it comes to pad change time I will look at rotor/pad options & then decide.

Still on the original brakepads so far mate & they have been ok. When it comes to pad change time I will look at rotor/pad options & then decide.
All good. I will be needing new pads soon and will get them to mic the rotors to see how much is left. Only done 70000 odd km. If the rotors are still ok I might just upgrade the pads. you sound like you have been through the wars with your supercharger. Hope it is good now. Keep us all in the loop if you are going to get new rotors eh?

All good. I will be needing new pads soon and will get them to mic the rotors to see how much is left. Only done 70000 odd km. If the rotors are still ok I might just upgrade the pads. you sound like you have been through the wars with your supercharger. Hope it is good now. Keep us all in the loop if you are going to get new rotors eh?

Will do, did have my eye on a nice setup they put on the US Galant/Eclipses but might cost an arm & a leg to get them here though. Will check it all out closer to pad change.

Re the charger, yep I think I've had my fair share of dramas but I think it will be all good from here.

Will do, did have my eye on a nice setup they put on the US Galant/Eclipses but might cost an arm & a leg to get them here though. Will check it all out closer to pad change.

Re the charger, yep I think I've had my fair share of dramas but I think it will be all good from here.

Are you talking about the brakes out of the Ralliart Galant?

Are you talking about the brakes out of the Ralliart Galant?

No it was an aftermarket setup. There used to be a link on the 9G site but it is now defunked, would have to find the website again. I'll have a poke around & see if I can find it if you're interested, might be able to do a group purchase to cut down frieght if there is any interest.

The words "Ralliart Galant" just made me google it.

Apparently, this is the back of the 2009 ralliart galant - arent they VRX taillights?
http://photos.leftlanenews.com/photos/cars/imageresizeronfly/phpThumb.php?src=/photos/cars/mitsubishi/mitsubishi-galant-ralliart-4.jpg&w=900

Isn't this thread for 90mm intake?

Yeah

<- fails at keeping on topic ;)

There is a guy currently selling a 90mm intake on ebay starting price $75 buy it now $85 with $15 delivery!! I am currently waiting for a response from a US Mitsi dealer for shipping but have ordered 2 of the 90mm intakes. I would imagine that the shipping for 2 would be the same as one so if all things work out I should have one spare if anyone is interested. I think one is around $67 landed in oz so 2 shouldnt be too much more and we could split the shipping. If there are more than one we will have to assess it from there.

There is a guy currently selling a 90mm intake on ebay starting price $75 buy it now $85 with $15 delivery!! I am currently waiting for a response from a US Mitsi dealer for shipping but have ordered 2 of the 90mm intakes. I would imagine that the shipping for 2 would be the same as one so if all things work out I should have one spare if anyone is interested. I think one is around $67 landed in oz so 2 shouldnt be too much more and we could split the shipping. If there are more than one we will have to assess it from there.

Would that be the RC Hills Mitsubishi?

Mine is still on backorder.

Yeah mate the one and the same. Do you want to go for another and share the costs and I will cancel my order?

Would that be the RC Hills Mitsubishi?

Mine is still on backorder.
If so let me know and we can organise something.

If so let me know and we can organise something.

I will have a think about it. Currently trying to work out how I add more items to my existing order.

Also, forgot to say the Shipping was $50 US for 1 90mm intake.

yeah i just cancelled my order thru RCHill for intake for my dads car. They told me 3 weeks for delivery as stock on backorder. Then 4 weeks later they told me they were contacting other mitsubishi dealers accross the US to source stock from other dealers as they ran out . I eventually got impatient and rang them and they told me they couldnt give me a timeframe for delivery as cannot locate anymore stock nationally at this stage.
The first order i placed tho only took like 2 weeks tho so meh

yeah i just cancelled my order thru RCHill for intake for my dads car. They told me 3 weeks for delivery as stock on backorder. Then 4 weeks later they told me they were contacting other mitsubishi dealers accross the US to source stock from other dealers as they ran out . I eventually got impatient and rang them and they told me they couldnt give me a timeframe for delivery as cannot locate anymore stock nationally at this stage.
The first order i placed tho only took like 2 weeks tho so meh

They told me it would take a week or 2 for stock to come in, I am starting to have second thoughts after what you said :(

They told me it would take a week or 2 for stock to come in, I am starting to have second thoughts after what you said :(

yeah forgot to mention i ended up getting mine off ebay from seller in OZ. Postage was quick as

They told me it would take a week or 2 for stock to come in, I am starting to have second thoughts after what you said :(
Mmmm looks like the US may not be the go after all. I have just noticed another guy has 8 x 90 mm intakes for sale on ebay for $70 + $15 delivery. May be a bit more than the US but at least I will get one in the near future. I am not sure if it is kosha to post the ebay link so I may get shot down for this, sorry if you are not meant to. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160352322853&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Better make that 7 as I just bought one.

Better make that 6 . I just ordered one from ebay I got the same response from the states, told out of stock and no idea when a new supply would be in.

Would really like the air box though as I dont want to file out the opening.

Just had a closer look at the intake on ebay and it doesnt seem to have the pipe to the airbox?
Is this a separate fitting anyone?
Cheeers

Pipe to the airbox? That big round thing at the top is what goes into the airbox.

Just had a closer look at the intake on ebay and it doesnt seem to have the pipe to the airbox?
Is this a separate fitting anyone?
Cheeers

Don't stress Chris. This shows you all. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slqJYuZtQpc&feature=related
Cutting the air box isnt that much drama, just take it carefully and slowly. I am yet to do it but from what I have read and seen it is made for the larger snorkel and the shape of it is already there for you.(if you have a close look at your air box with the smaller snorkel taken out you will see what I mean)

Last night I ordered another 90mm intake from Ebay just incase I couldnt get the one from USA.

but...

I received an email this morning from RC Hills Mitsubishi in the USA saying that stock should be in mid next week.

So I am now stuck with 2 90mm intakes.

Cheers 380Matey. I hadnt seen the galant intake before and it looked as if it was too short but now i watched the video all is clear.Thanx

Cheers 380Matey. I hadnt seen the galant intake before and it looked as if it was too short but now i watched the video all is clear.Thanx
Yeah gotta love youtube. If I think of it at the time I may document either by stills or short movie how I went about doing mine in case anyone is interested in the future.


Last night I ordered another 90mm intake from Ebay just incase I couldnt get the one from USA.

but...

I received an email this morning from RC Hills Mitsubishi in the USA saying that stock should be in mid next week.

So I am now stuck with 2 90mm intakes.

I wouldnt be too worried braedz you should be able to off load them on ebay at a reasonable profit or let people on here know you have them and the may just take them off your hands (with a little profit on the side for your time and hassle too). Your glass is half full!!

Falkirk is the ebay seller he got mine to me in 2 days

all legit

Falkirk is the ebay seller he got mine to me in 2 days

all legit

yeah that is who I have bought mine off.

My 90mm intake arrived by post today. Cant wait to get filing:facejump:

My 90mm intake arrived by post today. Cant wait to get filing:facejump:
Mine arrived too. After looking at what was needed I didnt use a knife or file rather a set of multigrips + a set of pliers to snap off the plastic. Now this may sound a little extreme but it works like a charm. I have taken photos to show how I did it. You can see the lip that needs to be taken off in photo 3. I worked from the inside of the airbox with the multigrips and pliers. All up from start to finish including the disassembly and assembly took me a shade under 25 minutes including the photos I took. I finished off with a round co@rse file. Also I would recommend to reboot your computer by disconnecting the battery for about a minute so it goes back to default settings and starts learning again. Some may disagree with that but that is what I have done. I have also removed the plastic cover over the engine at the same time. Will keep you posted as to the results on power/economy but early indications are favourable.

Nice entry point on the front of that airbox if you need more air sometime.

GREAT PICS 380 Matey. I can see that clipping off the flange moulding will give a perfect fit. Are you fitting a KN filter. I will have to wait till weekend to fit mine. Let us know the result.

does this actually make a difference to the power, or feel different?....

We wouldn't have done it otherwise.

Wow.

Installed the snorkel this morning. No K&N or anything. Wow. The throttle response is magic! I cant wait to see what a difference the K&N makes.

Only ran into one problem - LPG install. One of the rubber hoses from my LPG system runs behind the airbox right over the top of the rear restraining bolt. Had to remove a bolt holding the tube in place just to get access to the rear airbox bolt. What a pain.

Apart from that, pretty straight forward. Took me about 45 minutes hacking away it my box with a stanley knife, but have a nice snug fit now.

Just took it out for a 45 minute run, great fun leaving it in 1st and goosing it then letting it off, then goosing it etc etc. Also got on our local expressway and entered it at about 40k's in second and just planted the boot. Jumped up to 120 before I knew it and was only in third. The thing just wanted to keep going, and I was on LPG at the time.

Anyone who is thinking of doing it, DO IT NOW!!!!

See above. Is it worth it? Abso-friggen-lutely

Got my intake yesterday and it took about 30mins to fit it by filing away at the plastic.

So far, noticed a slight improvement in throttle response, but should get better as the ECU adapts to the new intake.

Next step...K&N :)

GREAT PICS 380 Matey. I can see that clipping off the flange moulding will give a perfect fit. Are you fitting a KN filter. I will have to wait till weekend to fit mine. Let us know the result.
I will be fitting a K an N at a later date, but I am having fun stuffing around with one thing at a time and seeing what impact that has on the vehicle. I have just done a highway run on standard unleaded and was getting 7.9l/100. I wasnt sitting on 110 though so I have to do another run this arvo and will try dropping it to that. Throttle response is better. I havent opened it up yet to see any difference but I would imagine there would be some. I will be interested in the K and N to see what that does. I am hoping it doesnt have a negative effect on the engines life due to letting more crap in. PS I run Nulon additive in all my cars engines and have done for years. Highly recommended. My last car (Nissan Bluebird) had 375000 on it when I sold it. It blew no smoke whatsoever and had great compression across the board and even too. I am not sure if it has any benefits consumption wise, but it certainly reduces wear and tear. Let me know if you are interested and I will blurb on a bit more.

Got my intake yesterday and it took about 30mins to fit it by filing away at the plastic.

So far, noticed a slight improvement in throttle response, but should get better as the ECU adapts to the new intake.

Next step...K&N :)
Try rebooting the ECU by dropping the + lead off the battery for a minute. Keen to know what the K and N does Braedz. Yeah I know it is well documented, but you are doing it like I am, one at a time.

Nice entry point on the front of that airbox if you need more air sometime.
Are you saying that you know of a nice entry point in the front of the air box? I have just been postulating on whether I can fit the standard snorkel somewhere and adapt it via some ducting into the front of the airbox. Is this what you are alluding to? and have you done it?

Try rebooting the ECU by dropping the + lead off the battery for a minute. Keen to know what the K and N does Braedz. Yeah I know it is well documented, but you are doing it like I am, one at a time.

Yea, I was going to.

I bought up the resetting of the ECU in another thread, but got told it does nothing. The funny thing is I was having the harsh shift from 3rd to 4th and after disconnecting the battery the transmission shifts became smoother.

it must do something disconnecting the battery?

That is because the auto in the 380 is adaptive, meaning it adapts to your driving style. If you punch it around alot it will learn to shift earlier but if you poke around easily it will shift later. It takes longer to adjust to a sedate driving style than an aggressive one. Taking the battery lead off also resets your auto box settings to factory default. This is really handy if you have been towing a trailer or caravan or similar for some distance and then take it off . your box is all over the place. answer is reset!!

Ps I know this is "off thread" but here is a link to before and after muffler for a 380 on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCPOLUuAn50&feature=related
I think this is Grubco's beastie!

Ps I know this is "off thread" but here is a link to before and after muffler for a 380 on youtube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCPOLUuAn50&feature=related
I think this is Grubco's beastie!

Er yes, that's my clip. I didn't realise when filming that, that only-revving would not be an adequate indication of the overall improvement felt by changing the exhaust. If anything, the Berklee sounds tinier than the standard muffler. It DOES go better... it just doesn't sound like it, here.

Fitted my 90mm intake this morning. Filed out the opening beautifully with half round file and cut away part of the rubber seal on bonnet. KN hasnt arrived yet so I cleaned out the old filter (not too bad) and will take it for a run tonight. No noticeable increase in induction noise. Will read others reports with interest.

Try rebooting the ECU by dropping the + lead off the battery for a minute. Keen to know what the K and N does Braedz. Yeah I know it is well documented, but you are doing it like I am, one at a time.

It does not reset the ECU

the service manual states that it

you need to used an OBD

You don't need to reset the ECU, guys. Give it some time to adjust, around a week. You are going to get issues if you keep trying to reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery. Don't forget there are five computers in the car.

Fitted my 90mm intake this morning. Filed out the opening beautifully with half round file and cut away part of the rubber seal on bonnet. KN hasnt arrived yet so I cleaned out the old filter (not too bad) and will take it for a run tonight. No noticeable increase in induction noise. Will read others reports with interest.

If you really want induction noise, take the snorkel off completely! Even if just for a while. Unbelievable!
As for me, I mentioned recently that I took my snorkel off. Its back on again now. I started the car 2 days ago and the engine was louder than usual plus very bad idle. When I looked inside, the engine light was on. I was really panicking; don't need that pressure at 5am! The only thing I could think of was put the snorkel back on, leave the engine off for a few minutes - and try again. I did all that, and thankfully she started fine! Luckily this only happened once and (fingers crossed) never again.
Now I will no longer recommend anyone to do this trick on a permanently basis, but you could give it a whirl for a day or so. The induction roar is much louder than from the lower resonator chop mod (I rode in another 380 with that done); I'm just not sure about all possible consequences.

If you really want induction noise, take the snorkel off completely! Even if just for a while. Unbelievable!
As for me, I mentioned recently that I took my snorkel off. Its back on again now. I started the car 2 days ago and the engine was louder than usual plus very bad idle. When I looked inside, the engine light was on. I was really panicking; don't need that pressure at 5am! The only thing I could think of was put the snorkel back on, leave the engine off for a few minutes - and try again. I did all that, and thankfully she started fine! Luckily this only happened once and (fingers crossed) never again.
Now I will no longer recommend anyone to do this trick on a permanently basis, but you could give it a whirl for a day or so. The induction roar is much louder than from the lower resonator chop mod (I rode in another 380 with that done); I'm just not sure about all possible consequences.

Well as you know I left mine off for 4 and a bit months with no problems so that is very strange to hear you had some problems? I only decided to put it back on yesterday as its starting to warm up during the day. I did leave the resonator off however so the induction note is still nice...but I have a muffler now so I dont mind hearing that more :happy:

If you really want induction noise, take the snorkel off completely! Even if just for a while. Unbelievable!
As for me, I mentioned recently that I took my snorkel off. Its back on again now. I started the car 2 days ago and the engine was louder than usual plus very bad idle. When I looked inside, the engine light was on. I was really panicking; don't need that pressure at 5am! The only thing I could think of was put the snorkel back on, leave the engine off for a few minutes - and try again. I did all that, and thankfully she started fine! Luckily this only happened once and (fingers crossed) never again.
Now I will no longer recommend anyone to do this trick on a permanently basis, but you could give it a whirl for a day or so. The induction roar is much louder than from the lower resonator chop mod (I rode in another 380 with that done); I'm just not sure about all possible consequences.
Yeah it doesnt do much good as it sucks hot air from the engine bay.

Er yes, that's my clip. I didn't realise when filming that, that only-revving would not be an adequate indication of the overall improvement felt by changing the exhaust. If anything, the Berklee sounds tinier than the standard muffler. It DOES go better... it just doesn't sound like it, here.
Whats with the blue smoke eh? Was that from the muffler itself? How much louder is it? I am not after anything louder than stock but something that breathes alot better. It's a trade off sometimes I know.

Whats with the blue smoke eh? Was that from the muffler itself? How much louder is it? I am not after anything louder than stock but something that breathes alot better. It's a trade off sometimes I know.

I have the same muffler as Grubco & it gave a remarkable performance gain. It is a little louder than standard when first fitted (his video doesnt accurately record that) however mine is now almost 2 years old and it is significantly louder now than when fitted. When my wife backs the car down the drive, you can hear the rumble from inside the house which I couldnt before. The note is more noticable from inside the car now during normal driving however when first fitted, you could only really hear it when you gave it a boot full.

Hey it just occured to me I still have a tiny video of Blue380's VRX doing a drive-by from our last meet-up, whereupon I took some photos. I could post that clip when I find it. The clip had a good exhaust note as I recall (much better than the YouTube video I made of my car).
EDIT: Here's the clip. Its very brief (I didn't plan it and only had a second to start filming before he left)... should do a better one sometime.
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh10/grubco/?action=view&current=20032009241.flv

Found this on you tube.


380, supercharged on LPG, pod filter....noise in cabin.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kfIDFFCvVA

Hey it just occured to me I still have a tiny video of Blue380's VRX doing a drive-by from our last meet-up, whereupon I took some photos. I could post that clip when I find it. The clip had a good exhaust note as I recall (much better than the YouTube video I made of my car).
EDIT: Here's the clip. Its very brief (I didn't plan it and only had a second to start filming before he left)... should do a better one sometime.
http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh10/grubco/?action=view&current=20032009241.flv

Thats a sweet note! I'll have to get a drive-by video of mine.......

Did you see what he says in the notes:
Note the LPG LED changeing from green to red and back to green. Green=LPG, Red=petrol for power.

Red = petrol for power? It's the first I've heard that if there is not enough LPG getting through, it switches to petrol. Can anyone confirm if thats true? I have had occasions where, when I put the boot down, the LPG light goes red. When I asked my LPG installers about it, they just said it went red because there was not enough LPG getting through. They never mentioned that the system puts petrol in to compensate....

Found this on you tube.


380, supercharged on LPG, pod filter....noise in cabin.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-kfIDFFCvVA
Yeah that is a guy called "Z80" or "Z81" from Austech site. Interesting car.
http://www.austech.info/automotive-technology/16683-lpg-supercharged-mitsubishi-380-a.html

Red = petrol for power? It's the first I've heard that if there is not enough LPG getting through, it switches to petrol. Can anyone confirm if thats true? I have had occasions where, when I put the boot down, the LPG light goes red. When I asked my LPG installers about it, they just said it went red because there was not enough LPG getting through. They never mentioned that the system puts petrol in to compensate....[/QUOTE]

Yes its true it switches to Petrol when lpg gets to point it cant deliver enough fuel when booting it. When cruising around it will stay on gas but if you give it stick it will flick over to petrol. This switchover is seamless tho.
It also contributes to why you get such good fuel economy on gas, cos some of the time its actually switching to petrol.
Im getting my gas conversion done next week

Ahh yeah, looks like he is banned from austech, he got banned from here too. Looks like the kind of guy who cant keep his mouth shut.

Thanks Terry

Ahh yeah, looks like he is banned from austech, he got banned from here too. Looks like the kind of guy who cant keep his mouth shut.

Thanks Terry

Yeah i saw that too! WTF is he doing to get banned all the time?

Yeah i saw that too! WTF is he doing to get banned all the time?
I think he upsets alot of people. Made some discriminatory remarks I believe and was shown the door.Came back as Z81. Interesting ride regardless.

I don't think its not enough gas getting through, it's just for more power..... They supply plenty of gas...

I have that system in TW, that stays on gas when pushed.

Interesting though, before our mods the 380 had nothing above 4500 RPM, So if the stock LPG car had to rev over that, it really would be working.
But it is not switched by the LPG system, the car does it

Yeah that is a guy called "Z80" or "Z81" from Austech site. Interesting car.
http://www.austech.info/automotive-technology/16683-lpg-supercharged-mitsubishi-380-a.html


ok guys i just got off the phone from TMR in relation to supercharging lpg 380s. The guy laughed at the assumption people wanted to do it and that people were thinking of getting it done thru them. They performed 1 supercharger fitment at a cost of around $5000 plus labour etc to ONE CAR!!. That car belonged to someone who also owned a TMR 380 and felt obliged to help out with the conversion. He strongly recommended NOT to supercharge an LPG 380 and they would not get involved ever again with this conversion. Apparently alot of time went into it and alot of problems down the track so not worth doing. They exhasted all avenues of doing it successfully while keeping the car reliable but couldnt.
For any other people who want it dont they wont get involved AT ALL unless of course your car is not LPG

That guy must have more money than he knows what to do with!4x380's then throws $5000 + at one for something to do!Wish I had that sort of cash lying around:roflwtf:

That's how he got banned from here, as I recall. People teased him about buying so many 380s instead of something else (someone likened his collection to collecting turds), and generally having more money than sense (or words to that effect).

i can confirm that the brc gas sytem changes back to petrol at wot due to injector rail pressure is to low.

as for lpg supercharged 380 i would do it and plan on doing it next year some time. i fit gas at work so have the programs to modify the rail pressure etc.

That's how he got banned from here, as I recall. People teased him about buying so many 380s instead of something else (someone likened his collection to collecting turds), and generally having more money than sense (or words to that effect).

Ouch!:bowrofl:

i can confirm that the brc gas sytem changes back to petrol at wot due to injector rail pressure is to low.

as for lpg supercharged 380 i would do it and plan on doing it next year some time. i fit gas at work so have the programs to modify the rail pressure etc.

Yeah I guess if your experienced with gas and have access to all the programs etc, you could make a goer of that project at a reasonable cost .Don't get me wrong I think gas is great but 5-6k is abit steep.I had a turbo intercooled rotary on dedicated gas about 15year ago and loved it,cost $1200 fitted! Had a $25 a week fuel allowance from work which would see me through the week with enough left over for a couple of iceblocks:woot:

Yeah I guess if your experienced with gas and have access to all the programs etc, you could make a goer of that project at a reasonable cost .Don't get me wrong I think gas is great but 5-6k is abit steep.I had a turbo intercooled rotary on dedicated gas about 15year ago and loved it,cost $1200 fitted! Had a $25 a week fuel allowance from work which would see me through the week with enough left over for a couple of iceblocks:woot:

5-6k for a 380 bis a rip. i think the last 380 we did was $4200. thats using a brc system.

I think he upsets alot of people. Made some discriminatory remarks I believe and was shown the door.Came back as Z81. Interesting ride regardless.

Yeah I think he said the site was run by gays and dole bludgers.
Turns out the site owner is a very proud gay and on the dole....woops
The place is also full of foxtel spies cause its a pirate satellite pay tv forum .

ok guys i just got off the phone from TMR in relation to supercharging lpg 380s. The guy laughed at the assumption people wanted to do it and that people were thinking of getting it done thru them. They performed 1 supercharger fitment at a cost of around $5000 plus labour etc to ONE CAR!!. That car belonged to someone who also owned a TMR 380 and felt obliged to help out with the conversion. He strongly recommended NOT to supercharge an LPG 380 and they would not get involved ever again with this conversion. Apparently alot of time went into it and alot of problems down the track so not worth doing. They exhasted all avenues of doing it successfully while keeping the car reliable but couldnt.
For any other people who want it dont they wont get involved AT ALL unless of course your car is not LPG



That's weird, I spoke to them and they said it was a KN filter that caused all his problems.

The KN filter oil got into the additional 3 bar MAP sensor that comes with the supercharger kit.

It also completely blocked the stock manifold MAP sensor.

Straight out of the box apparently.

Made it difficult to tune with that fault, but once the filter was removed and sensors replaced it was fine.

Sometimes it seems the answer you get depends on who answers the phone! Bloody annoying!:headbange

5-6k for a 380 bis a rip. i think the last 380 we did was $4200. thats using a brc system.



$4200 will get you the LPG kit.....it won't get the supercharger, thats another $5-6000 on top of the gas kit.


So...about $10k to convert a 380 to LPG and supercharger.


You still going to do it? :)

$4200 will get you the LPG kit.....it won't get the supercharger, thats another $5-6000 on top of the gas kit.


So...about $10k to convert a 380 to LPG and supercharger.


You still going to do it? :)

im already on gas. only cost $1000 out of my pocket.

im already on gas. only cost $1000 out of my pocket.

Are you planning on using the Sprintex kit or something else? The Sprintex will set you back approx $5500 including a tuneable SMT-6 which you will need unless you already have an ecu like I did. If not you can knock $550 off.

Make sure they give you a Series 5 blower but not the Series 3!!!

Yeah I guess if your experienced with gas and have access to all the programs etc, you could make a goer of that project at a reasonable cost .Don't get me wrong I think gas is great but 5-6k is abit steep.I had a turbo intercooled rotary on dedicated gas about 15year ago and loved it,cost $1200 fitted! Had a $25 a week fuel allowance from work which would see me through the week with enough left over for a couple of iceblocks:woot:
Used to race a rotary and a mate has got and RX-8 (handles and stops well but it left me a bit under-awed). Never heard of a turbo on dedicated gas though. I thought you couldnt do it. Obviously you can. Now that would have been cheap fun lol.

ok guys i just got off the phone from TMR in relation to supercharging lpg 380s. The guy laughed at the assumption people wanted to do it and that people were thinking of getting it done thru them. They performed 1 supercharger fitment at a cost of around $5000 plus labour etc to ONE CAR!!. That car belonged to someone who also owned a TMR 380 and felt obliged to help out with the conversion. He strongly recommended NOT to supercharge an LPG 380 and they would not get involved ever again with this conversion. Apparently alot of time went into it and alot of problems down the track so not worth doing. They exhasted all avenues of doing it successfully while keeping the car reliable but couldnt.
For any other people who want it dont they wont get involved AT ALL unless of course your car is not LPG

I got the same response from them, probably from the same person come to think of it. and yes he did have another TMR380 molten red parked in the shed as well, why I dont know, seems like a waste of money to me.

i can confirm that the brc gas sytem changes back to petrol at wot due to injector rail pressure is to low.

as for lpg supercharged 380 i would do it and plan on doing it next year some time. i fit gas at work so have the programs to modify the rail pressure etc.
We are so far off thread now lol but I really would like to know if you have ever fitted LPG to a 380 with the head that you are "not suppose" to fit LPG to. I cant tie anyone from Mitsi down to the differences in the head but I would imagine it to be valves and seats.

and now for something completely different...something about 90mm intake. I had the occasion to nail for the first time since the 90 mm intake install because someone placed an orange light in front of me. Yep it certainly goes better up the rev range now. would thoroughly recommend the 90mm intake to anyone with a 380. In fact you would be insane not to do it!! As for the K and N filter, I have heard both good and bad about them. All you guys that run them, have you had any problems whatsoever. Apparently Z80 had problems with oil on the MAP sensor causing check lights. Has anyone else experienced this. How much difference does it make when you have already done the 90mm snorkel and opened up the resevoir?

Yes. I am having second thoughts about fitting a KN filter. I mighr replace the standard wadding filter witha new paper one. I seldom drive on unsealed roads.

Yes. I am having second thoughts about fitting a KN filter. I mighr replace the standard wadding filter witha new paper one. I seldom drive on unsealed roads.
I am not totally debunking the idea yet, but it would be interesting to see others experiences. There are quite a few out there running the K and N's and swear by them. I would just like to know more specifics before I go ahead with it.

and now for something completely different...something about 90mm intake. I had the occasion to nail for the first time since the 90 mm intake install because someone placed an orange light in front of me. Yep it certainly goes better up the rev range now. would thoroughly recommend the 90mm intake to anyone with a 380. In fact you would be insane not to do it!! As for the K and N filter, I have heard both good and bad about them. All you guys that run them, have you had any problems whatsoever. Apparently Z80 had problems with oil on the MAP sensor causing check lights. Has anyone else experienced this. How much difference does it make when you have already done the 90mm snorkel and opened up the resevoir?

So far so good with mine and I drive on a few dirt roads during the week. Regards the map sensor problem its a matter of not over-oiling it as others have mentioned on many occasions. I do clean mine rather often however, every couple of months just to make sure...

...As for the K and N filter, I have heard both good and bad about them. All you guys that run them, have you had any problems whatsoever....

No problems whatsoever. K&N was my first mod, not over-oiled at all. After install it felt as if it had a bit more go in the higher rev ranged but I would admit it could have been the placebo effect. 90mm intake I did about 3 weeks later. Same effect once again. But overall I am rather certain there is a little more go once u hit about 3000rpm than there was before. That is all I have done so far, exhaust will be next performance mod.

OK I might just bite the bullet and get one. The cheapest I can find so far is off ebay from the states and they work out around $95 landed. That was with $37 au delivery, however they say that extra items are only $4 US. If there is anyone around the Northern Sydney/Central Coast/Newcastle area that is interested in getting one we could both get them cheaper. The part number is off the RPW site and is 33-2285 if anyone is interested. They charge around $117 delivered. They have 5 available last check. I will wait a day or 2 to see if anyone is interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-AIR-FILTER-33-2285-04-09-MITSUBISHI-GALANT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el11 16QQhashZitem5632595462QQitemZ370211902562QQptZMot orsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#shId

OK I might just bite the bullet and get one. The cheapest I can find so far is off ebay from the states and they work out around $95 landed. That was with $37 au delivery, however they say that extra items are only $4 US. If there is anyone around the Northern Sydney/Central Coast/Newcastle area that is interested in getting one we could both get them cheaper. The part number is off the RPW site and is 33-2285 if anyone is interested. They charge around $117 delivered. They have 5 available last check. I will wait a day or 2 to see if anyone is interested.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/K-N-AIR-FILTER-33-2285-04-09-MITSUBISHI-GALANT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el11 16QQhashZitem5632595462QQitemZ370211902562QQptZMot orsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#shId

Does it matter if I am in SA? If it doesnt...

I am keen, so how much will I be looking at if wanted to purchase one with you?

I got the same response from them, probably from the same person come to think of it. and yes he did have another TMR380 molten red parked in the shed as well, why I dont know, seems like a waste of money to me.

TMR380 are all Ralliart red, not Molten red.



.

I am keen, just need to get some money I am happy to pick it up from you too

Does it matter if I am in SA? If it doesnt...

I am keen, so how much will I be looking at if wanted to purchase one with you?
The reason I didn't say other areas was purely because it would then have to be reposted to you and that would bump up the costs all round. RPW deliver in Australia for around $117 and I think the delivery part of that is $17 so the difference may not be all that great. I am yet to work it out how much it would be but if you would like to suss it out and let me know that would be good. Probably just bubble wrap and an aussie post bag would do.

I am keen, just need to get some money I am happy to pick it up from you too
No problems. let me know.

I have priced superexpensive (cheap) they were $137 and
Rip
Every
Poor
Customer (sanitized version!) lol
Off
and they were $148.

OK Having done the math I have bitten the bullet and bought all five (5) K and N filters ex USA. I am yet to get the exact conversion rate on them but they will definitely be under $100, probably under $90, maybe even $80. I will let you all know. Mech wombat has put his hand up for one. Braedz 2 if it works out equitable for him. that leaves another 2. I prefer it if I can do it around Northern Sydney/Central Coast/Newcastle areas as we can deal in cash. More comfortable all round. either that or I will post on ebay later.

I have priced superexpensive (cheap) they were $137 and
Rip
Every
Poor
Customer (sanitized version!) lol
Off
and they were $148.

I got mine from Ripco back on 19 November 08 for $95.

That's a helluva price hike in less than 9 months!

More than can be explained by the US/Aussie $ exchange rate change.

Maybe Ripco have got wind that these filters are in demand?

KJ.

I got mine from Ripco back on 19 November 08 for $95.

That's a helluva price hike in less than 9 months!

More than can be explained by the US/Aussie $ exchange rate change.

Maybe Ripco have got wind that these filters are in demand?

KJ.

Maybe so but alot has happened since November 08 in both economies. I dont know if I am going to be hit with duties when they come in. Hope not, but will have to see. As I said the cheapest around now that I have seen in Oz is RPW @ approx $100 incl gst but not delivered. I am hoping I can do alot better, but it depends on duty.

Good news. I should have the K and N filters in 6-10 days according to the supplier. If I dont get stung on duty they should be around $80-85 mark.:facejump:

Good news. I should have the K and N filters in 6-10 days according to the supplier. If I dont get stung on duty they should be around $80-85 mark.:facejump:

Matey,

Sorry, dont worry about the K&N for me. I might just stick to the paper filter for the time being.

Matey,

Sorry, dont worry about the K&N for me. I might just stick to the paper filter for the time being.
No probs. I will have a few spare if you change your mind.

Getting my 90mm Galant intake and air box in next day or two (from U.S.). Getting LPG fitted on Wednesday. With the adjustments that the sensors need to go through when changing over, does anyone know if i would be better to wait until the LPG system settles in and then change the intakes over? Or should it be done at the same time as the LPG conversion so the computer can work out all the changes at once?
Any thoughts?

It can just bolt in straight away.

If you want to reset the lot just disconnect the battery negative for a few minutes and it will relearn the mixtures and auto trans upshifts etc.

It can just bolt in straight away.

If you want to reset the lot just disconnect the battery negative for a few minutes and it will relearn the mixtures and auto trans upshifts etc.
Thats good to know.. I actually did that (disconnect) on Saturday but happy to do it again.. Just waiting at the mailbox..............:drool:

Getting my 90mm Galant intake and air box in next day or two (from U.S.). Getting LPG fitted on Wednesday. With the adjustments that the sensors need to go through when changing over, does anyone know if i would be better to wait until the LPG system settles in and then change the intakes over? Or should it be done at the same time as the LPG conversion so the computer can work out all the changes at once?
Any thoughts?

Do it all at the same time. The computer will adjust accordingly. Otherwise it will have to do a double adjustment. Not a drama either way though.

Do it all at the same time. The computer will adjust accordingly. Otherwise it will have to do a double adjustment. Not a drama either way though.
Thanks for that. z80a recommeded that better to put in on before as it will be harder space wise etc later.
Besides, it just got here 5 min ago!!!! i cant resist!!!!!!!:facejump:

Yes! Put the 90mm on now. It is a nightmare trying to undo the rear airbox retaining bolt once LPG goes on, as there is a hose that sits right on top of it.

Knock yourself out mate. Its a quick job and fairly easy job to do. With your LPG set-up getting installed on Wed, I prob wouldnt even worry about resetting the ECU, as 380matey said the comp will adjust accordingly for the next few days then you can reset it once the LPG system is installed.

It can just bolt in straight away.

If you want to reset the lot just disconnect the battery negative for a few minutes and it will relearn the mixtures and auto trans upshifts etc.

Disconnecting the Battery does not reset the ECU

Only way is via the OBD

Well got it in and took it out for a thrashing.... If i didnt know it was there, i could not say for certain that i would have noticed a difference (if that makes sense). I hope its just adjusting and that it will improve. As long as its more fuel efficient, i will be very happy anyway regardless. Any power increase is just a bonus.. Modding is still addictive.

Disconnecting the Battery does not reset the ECU

Only way is via the OBD


Yes it does.

By power resetting, we do of course refer to the wiping of dynamic parameters, not erasing the operating system.
Such as short and long term fuel trims, and the auto trans adaptive parameters.
Also the clearing of CEL's, and radio memory.


EDIT...it won't matter, they need to disconnect the battery for hours for the LPG install anyway....:)

Didnt work for me then

I left it off overnight and was still pulling same numbers and still shifted the same
The parameters are retained until it is hard reset by OBD and I got that from MMAL
To reset the INVECS learning you have to used the OBD (I found that in the service Manual) as it is stored in the ETACS module therefore a simple battery disconnect does not work

My road trip to melbourne did more to change the drive than cutting power

The advice I got is that when power is off it re-learns those items and takes about a tank load of fuel to do it.

You need to hold about 80km/h for about 5 minutes, coast from 60km/h to a stop at kleast once etc.

These aren't exact, but if you look in the service manual CD for the 380 the procedure is there.


They say that if you reset power and absolutely cane it for the tank ful it learns and keeps your driving style.
On mine I can see the fuel trims change dramatically when the power is reset....and you can watch them creep along....

I use this device that displays up to 40 parameters in real time....

http://www.ecudatascan.com/

Are you a beta tester for the ecudatascan Blackstar?

The auto transmission guy that does all the work on mine worded me up on the reset for the auto via battery disconnection. It certainly appeared to make a difference when I did it. I would be really interesting to know the real facts in the matter. I think it is a bit like chinese whispers, gets a bit muddy along the way but retains some truth. The ECU Data scan looks interesting but unless it can actually do something it is just another toy really unless you get the GPS package and who knows how much extra they want for that!!

The auto transmission guy that does all the work on mine worded me up on the reset for the auto via battery disconnection. It certainly appeared to make a difference when I did it. I would be really interesting to know the real facts in the matter. I think it is a bit like chinese whispers, gets a bit muddy along the way but retains some truth. The ECU Data scan looks interesting but unless it can actually do something it is just another toy really unless you get the GPS package and who knows how much extra they want for that!!
I tried to google IGO8 software price. Clear as mud..:kb:

I tried to google IGO8 software price. Clear as mud..:kb:

Mine came with everything...

I have a...err...backup of the SD card...:)

So Blackstar what is the advantages of the ecudatascan? Do you have the GPS package? If so what cost.

there are plenty of OBD scanning tools out there . I hookup via OBD port to my laptop using a "backup" copy of scanmaster ELM 1.6 which is available on the net.There are plenty of other programs if you search torrents. Cheap option as was only like $75 for the special OBD cable

Mine came with everything...

I have a...err...backup of the SD card...:)
I think i fell in love with the google maps part:nuts: I love gadgets..

Blackstar, i hope you have a safe place for that Backup...

Way off track guy's!

I cant see how any air can get through the rubber bonnet seals into that 90mm intake. Has anyone noticed a difference once they have cut/folded it back? To me, it seems like its no wonder i havent noticed much difference with changing the intakes.

I cant see how any air can get through the rubber bonnet seals into that 90mm intake. Has anyone noticed a difference once they have cut/folded it back? To me, it seems like its no wonder i havent noticed much difference with changing the intakes.
I cut mine away around the intake section for exactly that reason. I reckon air is also forced through the front grille and up through the small opening in front of the intake.
I dont know whether its all in the mind:nuts: but my throttle response and general performance seems to have improved.

I cut mine away around the intake section for exactly that reason. I reckon air is also forced through the front grille and up through the small opening in front of the intake.
I dont know whether its all in the mind:nuts: but my throttle response and general performance seems to have improved.
My rule of thumb is this.... If someone came in the middle of the night and changed over intakes without me knowing, would i notice a difference when i drove it the next morning.
That said its hard cos you know its there!! Its proven on the dyno etc.

I think that it would be hard to feel any difference one way or the other but the fact of the matter is that it is letting more cold air into the snorkel and that cant be a bad thing. I had posted some pics on what I had done but I cant find them now. I cant post attachments either. Anyone know how to put a pic on without using attachments?

I think that it would be hard to feel any difference one way or the other but the fact of the matter is that it is letting more cold air into the snorkel and that cant be a bad thing. I had posted some pics on what I had done but I cant find them now. I cant post attachments either. Anyone know how to put a pic on without using attachments?
Someone helped me with this comment a short time ago re posting pics....
"for future reference, if you want to post a picture off your computer, you upload the the picture to an image hosting website like www.photobucket.com or www.imageshack.us"

I finally found where the pic was that I posted. this is what I did.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=39129&d=1251609297
I would do this slightly differently now. I would re use the plastic lugs from the rubber strip and drill a couple of small holes in the under side of the bonnet and make some small holes in the rubber mold in the appropriate place to facilitate them. If mine ever come loose it will still do this.

I cant see how any air can get through the rubber bonnet seals into that 90mm intake. Has anyone noticed a difference once they have cut/folded it back? To me, it seems like its no wonder i havent noticed much difference with changing the intakes.

I did this mod, but didn't really notice any difference in power or economy... then at last service they replaced the whole strip on me (d'oh!) - and with it back on I still didn't notice any difference. I'm sure the opening is much better for the engine... but I can't feel it myself.

I cut the strip as well ages ago, at the same time as I put on the 90mm snorkel, but I doubt that it makes much of a difference.

I'm betting that most of the air getting into the snorkel is coming via the hole in the cross member above the radiator, right in front of the snorkel, and some is getting in via the 'nostrils' in the underside of the bonnet above the same area.

When I enlarged the hole in front of the snorkel (by sawing & filing it out) to the same size & shape as the gap in the bottom/front edge of the 90mm snorkel, I noticed a small improvement in performance and a slight increase in induction noise.

I reckon it's another one of the little incremental mods that has helped my engine put out a healthy number of kw at the wheels.

KJ.

. Anyone know how to put a pic on without using attachments?



Upload it here:-

http://imageshack.us/


then cut and paste the "thumbnail for forums 2" link it volunteers into your post.

Upload it here:-

http://imageshack.us/


then cut and paste the "thumbnail for forums 2" link it volunteers into your post.

Cheers mate. Will have a go.

Like this?
http://img208.imageshack.us/img208/6521/dscf4373.th.jpg (http://img208.imageshack.us/i/dscf4373.jpg/)
Ps the tape was only there until the silicone set.

Lucky i am not on dial up...:)

have alook at the "resize" option...:)

I did this mod, but didn't really notice any difference in power or economy... then at last service they replaced the whole strip on me (d'oh!) - and with it back on I still didn't notice any difference. I'm sure the opening is much better for the engine... but I can't feel it myself.
Point taken Grubco. I wont worry about it :doubt:. Thanks and thanks 380matey for the pic and what you had to go through to post it!!!

Lucky i am not on dial up...:)

have alook at the "resize" option...:)

Big was it? Sorry I will resize on my next attempt to upload. Thanks to blackie for all the tutoring!!:bowdown:

Just today I've ordered the 90mm intake, and the front section of the air box.

I've realised it already has a K&N filter, and when I took off the original snorkel and looked inside the chamber, it looked pretty dirty.

I'm actually thinking about replacing it with an original mitsu filter as I have a concern about the oil getting on the air flow meter.

Now the problem is that I have virtually ZERO tools in my shed, so before I go out and buy stuff I won't need what is the easiest way to remove the whole airbox.

Once I remove the snorkel, is it just held in by the bolt on the front right and the left rear at the bottom of the unit?

I've downloaded the entire workshop manual and looked it up, but it's really not _that_ clear, but I think I'm right.

Any advice would be awesome.

All you need is a philips number 2 screwdriver and a ten millimetre socket and extension for the air box screws.

Stock filter works fine at around 200kw atw for me.....

Cheers man.

Can I ask why you prefer the stock filter to the K&N?

Also, if you have your manual there, can you tell me how often the air filter is meant to be cleaned when you take your car in for servicing?

I managed to get the top cover off to get to the air filter, and it was caked with crap in the valleys.

I tapped/dropped it on the ground a few times, and I was shocked to how much crap came out of it.

It just had it's 75,000k service, and in all my time I have never seen that much crap come out of an air filter, so I'm dubious that this has been looked at for quite some time.

Cheers man.

Can I ask why you prefer the stock filter to the K&N?.


Because it has been proven to be zero performance value....in fact less than the stock paper filter on a dyno.


See post 9 http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52148


Also, if you have your manual there, can you tell me how often the air filter is meant to be cleaned when you take your car in for servicing?.

Mine got changed at 40,000k's.
So I assume at 40k intervals.



It just had it's 75,000k service, and in all my time I have never seen that much crap come out of an air filter, so I'm dubious that this has been looked at for quite some time.

Well it was doing it's job then.

K&N just gave me more noise but I also dont have to fork out for an air filter change

I still have my paper one in the K&N box but I have not noticed any dirt past the air filter only in the box with the snorkel

Yep, the stock air filter v K&N debate never seems to end!

Distilling all the comments & experience on this forum, esp. regards the 380, I think it can be summarised as:

1. The K&N gives no detectable power/performance increase over the stock filter.
2. The K&N gives a little more induction noise, but not much
3. The main advantage of the K&N is that it should last the lifetime of the car with cleaning & proper oiling, saving you money on replacing the stock filter every 40,000 or 50,000 k.
4. The K&N had two disadvantages over the stock filter:
a) It's easy to over-oil it, excess oil is then deposited on the MAF (mass air flow) sensor, which can cause poor running etc. Easy to clean/fix by using the right sensor cleaning spray/fluid, but also easy to ruin the sensor by using the wrong cleaning agent and/or method.
b) It apparently doesn't filter very fine dust very well (due to the large holes), whereas the stock filter catches the fine dust.

So your choice, there are pros & cons.

I use a K&N, I clean it & lightly oil it every 10,000k or thereabouts, haven't had any problems with dust, but I've kept the stocker as a back up just in case.

KJ.

I have recoup the cost already as paper filter would have needed to be replaced twice since I have owned mine

oil a K&N correctly and there is no issues with a MAF sensor...
every oil change my K&N gets a wash and a re-oiling....works for me.
im planning on holding onto the car for a long time , i'd rather clean one often than waste money replacing them..

Because it has been proven to be zero performance value....in fact less than the stock paper filter on a dyno.



I was hoping this debate was well and truly behind us.

Has anyone here had any drama ordering from RC Hill in the US?

I've ordered the front half of the airbox four days ago, and the order remains at "processing" stage, and they have not responded to my online enquiry I lodged the other day.

Enlarge the hole in the existing airbox yourself. 10 minute job. If I can do it anyone can.
See the encyclopaedia for instructions.

I got my intake and fron half of air box from from RC hill $152AUD incl postage. Need to be patient took about 3 weeks.

Has anyone here had any drama ordering from RC Hill in the US?
Ordered the snorkel from them, outstandingly fast shipping to WA. high5 to those guys :)


Enlarge the hole in the existing airbox yourself. 10 minute job. If I can do it anyone can.
See the encyclopaedia for instructions.
+1.

3 bolts get the front of the airbox off, i used an old soldering iron to melt away the plastic. took 15mins :)

Enlarge the hole in the existing airbox yourself. 10 minute job. If I can do it anyone can.
See the encyclopaedia for instructions.

I was tempted to do that, but in the end just decided I wanted to order the original fitting part for the larger snorkel.


Ordered the snorkel from them, outstandingly fast shipping to WA. high5 to those guys :)




How long did it take you to receive your snorkel?

I tried to order the snorkel through RC hills, they were out of stock for around a month. I ended up cancelling my order and got one off of ebay.

Enlarge the hole in the existing airbox yourself. 10 minute job. If I can do it anyone can.
See the encyclopaedia for instructions.

:stoopid:

Yea, its pretty easy to do. You cant really do anything wrong, the markings are all there for the 90mm intake.

I was tempted to do that, but in the end just decided I wanted to order the original fitting part for the larger snorkel.



How long did it take you to receive your snorkel?


Snorkel came from AU took 1 day

I did not bother with airbox seriously dont need to buy one from the US

JUST CUT IT

I was tempted to do that, but in the end just decided I wanted to order the original fitting part for the larger snorkel.



How long did it take you to receive your snorkel?

about 6 working days if my memory serves me

Oh bugger!

The front half of the airbox arrived today from RC Hill!

Which I think is mighty quick, but my excitement was very short lived as the plastic guide at the bottom that the back half slides into - is broken off. There's no way both halves can be fastened securely and tightly.

Has anyone had any experiences with returns or faults with RC?

They take ages to respond to emails.

What about using some Araldite?

What about using some Araldite?

I was tempted. Believe me.

I thought about glue, but I really don't think it would hold for long with the heat you get under the bonnet, nor the vibration.

I was tempted. Believe me.

I thought about glue, but I really don't think it would hold for long with the heat you get under the bonnet, nor the vibration.
The glue blackstar mentioned or Loctite 406 (expensive glue) will work fine...

Araldite - 5bux

Cost of sending back, etc - 30bux

Just glue it :)

Or you could just fit the 90mm intake to the original front half of the airbox....

Its not that hard to do...

Araldite - 5bux

Cost of sending back, etc - 30bux

Just glue it :)

Nah, really don't want to glue it. I can just see myself forever checking if it's come loose again.

Best I tackle it now while it's just been delivered. Even if I have to recoup my money from paypal or something of that like.


Or you could just fit the 90mm intake to the original front half of the airbox....

Its not that hard to do...

Actually, I already have done that, although I hadn't intended to. I was too impatient to wait.

But I'd like the proper box on there anyway. I know what you're thinking. Yes, I can be _that_ pedantic. :nuts:

meh I cut it

what am I going to do with a aibox after I sell the car and get a i45

Guys, i've posted in the WTB section, a 90mm air inlet for my 380 still waiting for approval, ive been reading around the first few pages of this thread and clicking on the links where some of you got your intakes from but the links dont work any help on where i can find one would be appreciated, thanks guys, kif

Got mine from ebay. No probs

I got my snorkel off ebay.

Locally in Aust.

About $65 including freight.

Yeah the ebay guy is OUT ATM is what KIF is saying

Kif is joining club 90mm intake as he purchase his yesterday

Kif is joining club 90mm intake as he purchase his yesterday

is there a "club90mm" if there isnt there should be...lol and i removed the lower resonater box,and man what a difference,,,highly recomend this mod....

and i removed the lower resonater box,and man what a difference,,,highly recomend this mod....

So you really noticed this?
A few others thought it really made a difference but I haven't been stuffed doing it - let's face it - the car has really good power anyway. But you're another who says it seems to really make a difference so I might pull it off.
Is it only at the top end (according to Blue380)?

So you really noticed this?
A few others thought it really made a difference but I haven't been stuffed doing it - let's face it - the car has really good power anyway. But you're another who says it seems to really make a difference so I might pull it off.
Is it only at the top end (according to Blue380)?

I've tried various permutations of this, and in my opinion it doesn't improve performance much if at all, but it does result in a fairly loud induction roar at anything over half throttle. So it's mainly about the noise.

Michael - where you say 'man what a difference', difference in what? Performance, noise or both?

KJ.

Yeah, but KJ you might not notice it if it gives 2-3 KW when your car is ~180 whatever :P. For us with the crumbs it might be worthwhile...

So you really noticed this?
A few others thought it really made a difference but I haven't been stuffed doing it - let's face it - the car has really good power anyway. But you're another who says it seems to really make a difference so I might pull it off.
Is it only at the top end (according to Blue380)?

Yeah I did this mod first when I had the original 60mm intake on and then kept it off with the 90mm intake. At first I thought it made a noticeable difference, I think it might be the placebo effect to be honest. The noise is porn though so ima leave it off :)

P.S- I actually took the 90mm intake off the other day again...I know it does no good whatsoever but the intake sound is just so deep, and so loud in fact I can't even hear the muffler over it :P

Thats interesting that you can hear all the induction noise. I have a pod on mine & I must say I can't really hear it except at idle (hissing whistley sort of sound). Maybe because where I have it located its sort of in its own box (between inner guard liner,inner guard & lower cowl). The supercharger whine & exhaust noise could be drowning it out too though.

Thats interesting that you can hear all the induction noise. I have a pod on mine & I must say I can't really hear it except at idle (hissing whistley sort of sound). Maybe because where I have it located its sort of in its own box (between inner guard liner,inner guard & lower cowl). The supercharger whine & exhaust noise could be drowning it out too though.

It is extremely loud, I have had my mate drive it past me at WOT and it's pretty crazy. I'd love to hear it with a supercharger also *drool*

I guess the way the box is shaped and the air being sucked in from top and underneath must just resonate at the right frequency. It might suck in hotter air and so on, but I just don't care...I love it lol

P.S- I actually took the 90mm intake off the other day again...I know it does no good whatsoever but the intake sound is just so deep, and so loud in fact I can't even hear the muffler over it :P
I can vouch for this. I did it too. Really really awesome. I was turning heads in all the back streets where I was booting it.

I can vouch for this. I did it too. Really really awesome. I was turning heads in all the back streets where I was booting it.

Am I right in saying you ended up getting a CEL after taking yours off Dave? I put mine back on last month because it started idling poorly, put it back on and she was all sweet. Took if off now and haven't had a single problem :nuts:

The induction noise was awesome when I had the POD setup. Got annoying after a while, so I put the 90mm intake on and havnt looked back.

The induction noise was awesome when I had the POD setup. Got annoying after a while, so I put the 90mm intake on and havnt looked back.

Is the pod noticeable under any amount of throttle? The way I've got it set up may as well be a pod of sorts, except it is completely absent of noise unless you boot it. Perfect for when dad wants to borrow my car :P

Is the pod noticeable under any amount of throttle? The way I've got it set up may as well be a pod of sorts, except it is completely absent of noise unless you boot it. Perfect for when dad wants to borrow my car :P

Thsi is what I did:

http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68311&highlight=

Am I right in saying you ended up getting a CEL after taking yours off Dave? I put mine back on last month because it started idling poorly, put it back on and she was all sweet. Took if off now and haven't had a single problem :nuts:

Yes I got a CEL one morning which scared me; wasn't sure if putting the snorkel back on would make it disappear or not - fortunately it did. I had it off for about a week I think? Did sound very beefy... but would never do it again; surely not good for the engine. Wouldn't mind taking that lower one off, but too hard to get at without trolley jack, etc.

Yes I got a CEL one morning which scared me; wasn't sure if putting the snorkel back on would make it disappear or not - fortunately it did. I had it off for about a week I think? Did sound very beefy... but would never do it again; surely not good for the engine. Wouldn't mind taking that lower one off, but too hard to get at without trolley jack, etc.

Well I can't imagine its any worse than having a pod filter on? And damn straight its a prick of a job without a trolley jack. The majority of dirt up inside there ended up in my eyes lol

so back down to earth guys... what about cleaning an airflow sensor with "crc airflow cleaner" while installing 90mm snorkel... any advise and location where this sensor is?

I wouldnt worry about it, if your car is running fine, your airflow sensor is fine.

I wouldnt worry about it, if your car is running fine, your airflow sensor is fine.

i will let you know if its running fine - just got it 2 weeks ago - and waiting for KN filter. the one inside is filthy like a mud. dont want to spend money on another paper one as the KN should arrive any day now- and also Galant intake. at the moment the consumption goes around 15l/100km which i think is too high - but as i said the filter is filthy...

Well done mate, its good to know theres yet another very happy 380 owner out there!!! I think the key to the whole larger intake thing is the K & N.....there is still a noticable improvement running the 90mm with the standard filter but the K & N certainly make its a heap more responsive. I did my mods a while ago but I can assure you the novelty hasnt worn off yet...I still take the car for a spin by myself every now & then for no other reason but to put a smile on my face.

I know a lot of people have indicated Mitsubishi should have built the cars with a better rear muffler/bigger intake (we all know it was done for noise suppression etc) but think of how much more enjoyment you now get from driving the car all for a few hundred dollars.
I have got the K and N but I didn't feel any difference at all when I put it on my VRX . I would still recommend it as it will save you heaps of $$ over the life of the car on filters.

I have got the K and N but I didn't feel any difference at all when I put it on my VRX . I would still recommend it as it will save you heaps of $$ over the life of the car on filters.


Am pretty sure we discussed in another thread that you actually don't save anything at all.

Hi All,

90 intake finally!!! and what improvement in power and fuel consumption ;-)

this is fuel data with small intake, and filthy air filter (as i bought it 2 weeks ago)... note that the car had all regular inspections 4 of them + 1 for extended warranty - look how fithy it is - they never even bother to open the air box!!! enjoy front and back pic
front of air filther
http://img214.imageshack.us/img214/6608/picture183p.jpg

back of air air filther
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/763/picture184w.jpg

fuel consumption with old air filther and small intake
http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6277/picture185tk.jpg

new data after 391 km of reving ;-) (the sound is gorgeous), high way, heavy traffic with full air/con...
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/6997/picture187jy.jpg

now i love this car even more

i was thinking about rubber strip and this restricting air flow into snorkel.

if you look at this picture in white circle - this is what i believe is the way air is getting into snorkel... thru the front mesh and compresed running into snorkel. the rubber on the both ends creates a closed space allowing the air to be sucked in - instead of forced in... just my thoughts

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2122/picture188ha.jpg

i was thinking about rubber strip and this restricting air flow into snorkel.

if you look at this picture in white circle - this is what i believe is the way air is getting into snorkel... thru the front mesh and compresed running into snorkel. the rubber on the both ends creates a closed space allowing the air to be sucked in - instead of forced in... just my thoughts

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/2122/picture188ha.jpg

Dont worry about the rubber strip, it is there for a reason, to stop water entering the intake. There is no performance increase with removing the rubber strip.

Dont worry about the rubber strip, it is there for a reason, to stop water entering the intake. There is no performance increase with removing the rubber strip.

Agreed. I cut mine back and I get a build of debris around the mouth of the intake. I am planning to buy a new strip and replace it.

Funny, I cut my strip over two years ago (just the 15cm or so in front of the snorkel) and have never had any debris build up in or near the snorkel.

Also for smarc78, re the white circled inlet hole.
I agree this seems to be a primary source of air for the snorkel, so one of the first mods I did was to enlarge this hole so it's the same size & shape as the gap on the bottom of the 90mmm snorkel (where it mounts next to this hole). Bit of a chore with hacksaw blade & file coz the metal here is quite thick & hard.
No proof that it does anything to improve performance, but I reasoned that it can't hurt, there was a fair chance that it would result in improved airflow into & through the snorkel, and it's free, so I went ahead & did it.

Funny, I cut my strip over two years ago (just the 15cm or so in front of the snorkel) and have never had any debris build up in or near the snorkel.

Also for smarc78, re the white circled inlet hole.
I agree this seems to be a primary source of air for the snorkel, so one of the first mods I did was to enlarge this hole so it's the same size & shape as the gap on the bottom of the 90mmm snorkel (where it mounts next to this hole). Bit of a chore with hacksaw blade & file coz the metal here is quite thick & hard.
No proof that it does anything to improve performance, but I reasoned that it can't hurt, there was a fair chance that it would result in improved airflow into & through the snorkel, and it's free, so I went ahead & did it.

i was thinking about it too ;-) well just finished fiddling with the file at the airbox - blisters still there -so I will see how i go with this whole ;-) if you can shoot any pic of that it would be great cheeers m

Funny, I cut my strip over two years ago (just the 15cm or so in front of the snorkel) and have never had any debris build up in or near the snorkel.

Also for smarc78, re the white circled inlet hole.
I agree this seems to be a primary source of air for the snorkel, so one of the first mods I did was to enlarge this hole so it's the same size & shape as the gap on the bottom of the 90mmm snorkel (where it mounts next to this hole). Bit of a chore with hacksaw blade & file coz the metal here is quite thick & hard.
No proof that it does anything to improve performance, but I reasoned that it can't hurt, there was a fair chance that it would result in improved airflow into & through the snorkel, and it's free, so I went ahead & did it.
Yes, I looked at the inlet hole but wasnt game to fiddle with it. Might give it a go.

Finally got my new intake on the car! absolutely stoked. Loving my 380.
Strips cut down, all im considering is expanding the inlet that a few people are talking about. Exhuast and extractors next!

the inlet hole in 380 is a joke... I looked at my friends Falcon BA and this inlet is like 1000000 times bigger than 380... the snorkel update is one thing but the inlet hole is restricting flow to same amount as before... any ideas how to upgrade the inlet hole?
i have just fiddled with the bottom resonator and this seems to be the way to go... i was thinking how to force the air going in and as this resonator is very close to the bottom mesh i created this scopish looking design forcing the air into the air box... improvement: sounds is gorgeous over 4000 rpm... also the gear shifting improved... with the normal drive around 2000 - 3000 rpm no extra noise

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8374/91934083.jpg

I tried to get mine off but too fiddly (I ran with the snorkel off, for a few days - very nice!). I recall Blue380 did the same thing as you, and KJ380 has connected a duct pipe to his resonator, coming out to the fog light area (no foglight on his model), and Foozrcool fitted a pod filter down there.

Am pretty sure we discussed in another thread that you actually don't save anything at all.***relating to K and N filters***
Beg to differ. The price of a paper element is around the $30 mark. I paid about double that for the K and N and have cleaned it a few times so it has more than paid for itself. QED

the inlet hole in 380 is a joke... I looked at my friends Falcon BA and this inlet is like 1000000 times bigger than 380... the snorkel update is one thing but the inlet hole is restricting flow to same amount as before... any ideas how to upgrade the inlet hole?
i have just fiddled with the bottom resonator and this seems to be the way to go... i was thinking how to force the air going in and as this resonator is very close to the bottom mesh i created this scopish looking design forcing the air into the air box... improvement: sounds is gorgeous over 4000 rpm... also the gear shifting improved... with the normal drive around 2000 - 3000 rpm no extra noise

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8374/91934083.jpg

Mate, if you're talking about the hole at the front of the intake snorkel, on the metal cross member above the radiator, yes, it can be enlarged a fair bit with various tools (hacksaw blade, pliers, file, dremel) and a large amount of elbow grease.

See post#38 on Page 4 of this thread, the second pic, which shows the hole in question (stock).

I cut the hole on mine so it is the same size as the front edge of the 90mm intake snorkel, so all up the hole is about twice as big as the stock hole. Will get a pic up later.

No proof that it makes any real difference, but it probably increases air flow into the snorkel at least a litle bit, and that can't be bad.

KJ.

I have enlarged that hole too with much work, tools etc. I have also fabricated an aluminium scoop to force air up into that hole. There is no noticeable change in either power or economy that I can see from this and as such would not advocate anyone doing it. Not that it hurts, just think there are better things to do than that.

Hi all sorry for thread revival, looking at chucking the intake and new front of the box on, just wondering if anyone knows where to purchase these or if Ebay is gunna have to do?

Thanx

Pretty sure they are available on ebay at the moment. Got mine from there with no issues.

Yeah seen the intake on Ebay but trying to find front box aswel, people were talking about buying from america as its cheaper anyone know the supplier?

Yeah seen the intake on Ebay but trying to find front box aswel, people were talking about buying from america as its cheaper anyone know the supplier?

not because its cheaper... more because you cant really get it here.
supplier is rchill mitsu google it for exact address :P

Modify your own. 20 min job. All the info is in this thread.

Yeah I seen. Although it will cost more and I would think I'd be more then capable of doing so, the car is the partners so would like to keep original parts so "granpa" doesn't hassle me LOL.

where can i get me a 90mm intake? and how much ?

where can i get me a 90mm intake? and how much ?

From here: Mitsubishi 380 high flow air intake snorkel galant (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-380-high-flow-air-intake-snorkel-galant-/150656853440?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313d925c0)

$54.95 & $15 postage, call it $70.00.

From here: Mitsubishi 380 high flow air intake snorkel galant (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-380-high-flow-air-intake-snorkel-galant-/150656853440?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2313d925c0)

$54.95 & $15 postage, call it $70.00.

Not a bad price if it works. I'll definitely give it a go. If in the event I want to revert back, how much would a new airbox bit be from mits (the bit you have to hack at)?

Not a bad price if it works. I'll definitely give it a go. If in the event I want to revert back, how much would a new airbox bit be from mits (the bit you have to hack at)?

Leigh,

You can't get the 90mm airbox in Oz, but you can get it from the US.

Check out post #21 in your new thread where I posted up links to the the RCHill pages.

Here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90759&p=1428977&viewfull=1#post1428977

Leigh,

You can't get the 90mm airbox in Oz, but you can get it from the US.

Check out post #21 in your new thread where I posted up links to the the RCHill pages.

Here: http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90759&p=1428977&viewfull=1#post1428977

Yes I know, sorry should have been clearer, I meant if I hack my stock airbox and wanted to revert back to the standard snorkel at a later date, what would I be looking at to replace the air box bit? I guess at a wreckers it'd probably be about 30-40 bucks anyway :).

Yes I know, sorry should have been clearer, I meant if I hack my stock airbox and wanted to revert back to the standard snorkel at a later date, what would I be looking at to replace the air box bit? I guess at a wreckers it'd probably be about 30-40 bucks anyway :).

Yeah, wreckers, or better bet try Mal. $30 - $40 sounds about right. You only need the front half.

I don't think there would be a need to buy a front half airbox if you ever want to revert back. There would be plenty of takers interested in doing a swap to get there hands on one.
You'd easily get your money back, if you did the changeover and your install was good in the first place.
Has anyone reverted back BTW.

Good point, i'm sure i would find someone to swap with.

I'll be ordering one of these when I get paid next week.

Its more trying to find a supplier that has the front box. Tried the usual Ebay, RChill and autoparts online and noone has anything :(. LOL anyone looking at changing back to stock ;)

once you have done the 90mm ,you will never want to go back,at ,why on earth would you

No im asking if anyone wants to swap back because I cant find the box, snorkel is easy to get.

From the US, RC Hill Mitsubishi, http://www.rchillmitsu.com
Air intake "snorkel" component: MN156778
Front half of air filter box: MN180008
go to parts, order mitsubishi parts on line, search by part or keyword- enter MN180008, and you want the Air cleaner body - 3.8 liter Sport v6 2009

I don't think there would be a need to buy a front half airbox if you ever want to revert back. There would be plenty of takers interested in doing a swap to get there hands on one.
You'd easily get your money back, if you did the changeover and your install was good in the first place.
Has anyone reverted back BTW.

I bought the whole new assembly, also to retain a full stock set for the future... but of course never went back. I guess back in the early days we may have worried about dealer service complaints, cop inspects, or other crazy things like that which never happened. Mine's sitting on a shelf in the garage under about 4 years worth of dust.