So finally got that intake from the stated and fitted to other day, you could see straight away when i pulled off the smaller intake how easily (with a bit of work) the new 90mm fits into the air box i've no idea why mitsu would install this small POS onto such a brilliant engine.
Anyways took it for a drive about an hour after installing (i tried to hold back but couldn't resist it) and omg.....the difference with this intake and a K&N is amazing.....i'm in love with my car all over again the throttle response is just so much crisper now it goes at the slightest tickle of the throttle, whereas before you used to have to give it about 50% throttle to have it spark up and take off now it does it much earlier maybe 25%.

The first time i took it out had a guy in a ute (yes i know its nothing special) pulls up next to me at some lights, i didn't wanna race him just took off a little aggressively, TCL was fighting a bit and she took off fast, anyway this guy is revving the ****e out of his ute to try and keep up he didn't of course then when we stopped again at another set maybe 300m up the road i could see him looking at my car trying to work out what it was :D

So yeah GET IT DONE! if you want a car with some performance get the intake and the filter and the exhaust its a whole new car after that, now all i need to do is save the money up to get the extractors done and then chipped....then lowered and get some nice new 18" rims put on her.

So yeah GET IT DONE! if you want a car with some performance get the intake and the filter and the exhaust its a whole new car after that, now all i need to do is save the money up to get the extractors done and then chipped....then lowered and get some nice new 18" rims put on her.

Hallelujah brother! lol

Well done - it was worth the wait, eh?

When you get it on the hwy you'll find fifth is really good now and quite responsive.

Well done mate, its good to know theres yet another very happy 380 owner out there!!! I think the key to the whole larger intake thing is the K & N.....there is still a noticable improvement running the 90mm with the standard filter but the K & N certainly make its a heap more responsive. I did my mods a while ago but I can assure you the novelty hasnt worn off yet...I still take the car for a spin by myself every now & then for no other reason but to put a smile on my face.

I know a lot of people have indicated Mitsubishi should have built the cars with a better rear muffler/bigger intake (we all know it was done for noise suppression etc) but think of how much more enjoyment you now get from driving the car all for a few hundred dollars.

I agree. The best value (for dollars to kilowatts) you will spend on your car, is what you have now done. As others have said, we are merely bringing the 380 back to how it was meant to be (I swear VRXs should have been made like this!).
I recommend the lowering, you'll get a much improved ride from it.
And if you can afford it, start using 98 octane. I do, and it works very well with these mods.
Glad you like your mods. I love mine too!

Did we ever figure out what is a good exhaust system to go with? Its the only thing im still a little unsure of as i dont want a booming exhaust ( i actually love the sound as it is stock).


Maybe we need to start a database of all the exhaust designs and makes our members are currently using with a quick description of performance/cost etc...

sorry if this is a little of topic.

I'm pretty sure they are imported from either NZ or USA....

Good to see that the 380's are getting some cheap yet effective mods.

Mike

where is everyone getting there intakes from is there a reliable source? thanks.
I got mine (and I think everyone else as well) from Rey Reece Mitsubishi in the US. Cost $47 delivered to Sydney. Very easy & no problems at all with the transaction.

Did we ever figure out what is a good exhaust system to go with? Its the only thing im still a little unsure of as i dont want a booming exhaust ( i actually love the sound as it is stock).


Maybe we need to start a database of all the exhaust designs and makes our members are currently using with a quick description of performance/cost etc...

sorry if this is a little of topic.
Grubco & myself didnt change the entire exhaust, just the rear muffler. We both went with a Berklee BSO655 straight thru...gave a very significant power gain whilst retaining the standard system note just a little louder and a little deeper. Absolutely no drone & cost me $148 fitted (kept the old chrome tip). I highly recommend it.

legend thanks very much thats exactly what i am after have u got there website or did u call them? and maybe the part no. so i get the right one. much appreciated. thanks.
No problem. The process is described in detail in the NZ Power thread but as that is about 30 pages long, I'll summarise:
The site is www.reyreece.com You have to set up an account first which is pretty easy. The part no. for the 90mm intake is MN156778 and is described as a 'Duct, air cleaner'. For an adittional $140 (?) you can also order the front half of the air box. I didnt so I had to file out the opening on the standard box which was easy & took about an hour...still gives a snug fit. Delivery was about 2 weeks. Good luck & PM me if you want more info.

that part i know but type 40 ordered one and ended up with a standard intake and everyone i ask whose going os never bought car parts before so hopefully theres a mail order place.
I did end up with the wrong one but i do have to commend them (Rey Reece). I sent them photos of the incorrect part with both the correct and incorrect part numbers. They were really great and sent out the proper part at no cost to me. And i didnt have to return the other incorrect one either! Pity its of no use to me whatsoever! lol

thanks blue 380 and type 40 very helpful ill give it a go. thanks.
Believe me, you wont regret it. I noticed the intake more than the muffler but i put that down to the peculiarities of my particular 380!

Grubco & myself didnt change the entire exhaust, just the rear muffler. We both went with a Berklee BSO655 straight thru...gave a very significant power gain whilst retaining the standard system note just a little louder and a little deeper. Absolutely no drone & cost me $148 fitted (kept the old chrome tip). I highly recommend it.

Thnx for that. If its as good as you say and that cheap i will get it done. Any idea on fuel consumption? i assume it would improve after all the basic mods.

Thnx for that. If its as good as you say and that cheap i will get it done. Any idea on fuel consumption? i assume it would improve after all the basic mods.

I've found mine has stayed about the same 11-12l/100km on long trips it drops down significantly this engine seems to love to just purr along at like 110-130 and uses almost no fuel.
however you will notice in the first week or so untill the ECU adapts that the car chews allot more fuel than normal don't panic it will adapt and your fuel usage will return to normal.

I've found mine has stayed about the same 11-12l/100km on long trips it drops down significantly this engine seems to love to just purr along at like 110-130 and uses almost no fuel.
however you will notice in the first week or so untill the ECU adapts that the car chews allot more fuel than normal don't panic it will adapt and your fuel usage will return to normal.

Mate i would love my car to be doing 11-12l/100km. Problem is bloody all the road works in the south eastern area of melbourne. cant get a decent trafic flow at all thus causing my consumption to be around 14.7 (thats including a bit of blast every monday nite).

EDIT: probably doesnt help that i live in the hills

Thnx for that. If its as good as you say and that cheap i will get it done. Any idea on fuel consumption? i assume it would improve after all the basic mods.
My fuel comsumption has definetely reduced after all the mods. The problem is now the car goes so well, its tempting to give it a bit from time to time & clearly, that doesnt help fuel economy.

TJ Sports and Seadevil,

If you go to the trouble of getting the 90mm intake, make sure you get the K&N filter to suit. It makes a lot of difference and the two together are the best.

i looked at that website and used the part number you listed .... but it comes up with 2 parts ... maybe you could clarify which one it is ... my car is stock at the moment as its only a week old ... but i wouldnt mind the intake / muffler / filter combo... has anyone worked out what that combos gain is in performance / economy ?

i looked at that website and used the part number you listed .... but it comes up with 2 parts ... maybe you could clarify which one it is ... my car is stock at the moment as its only a week old ... but i wouldnt mind the intake / muffler / filter combo... has anyone worked out what that combos gain is in performance / economy ?

My receipt shows "Duct, Air Cleaner" - MN156778 (which is the actual air snorkel), and "Body Assembly, Air Cleaner" - MN180008 (which is the front half of the air filter box which the snorkel attaches/feeds to). I hope this is the info you're after.
I bought both 'cos I was lazy to do the cutting. Your standard air filter box has a reduced 60mm opening, whereas the US box has 90mm opening; you either order the US one or file out the opening in yours.
The rest of us have found and agreed that the combo of *straight-thru rear muffler, *90mm intake, & *k&n air filter work the best. And this is very affordable ($380 including the air filter box, or less without it). This is all I'm doing to my car, power-mod wise.
As for economy, I found mine worsened directly after the mods (which I did in this listed order, but I was not driving the car everyday), however it did later improve.
As for performance, in short, it is like another car altogether, with much more usable power! And I use 98 fuel now.
Any of us would highly recommend these simple and affordable mods; you won't regret it.

Hi All,

great to see some easy mods on the 380.

A question - has anyone changed to the 90mm intake and K and N filter without changing the exhaust? If so is there a noticeable difference and is it worth doing. Unfortunately given my situation I can't modify the exhaust (company car) but should be able to get away with intake/filter as it can easily be changed back to stock.

Hi All,

great to see some easy mods on the 380.

A question - has anyone changed to the 90mm intake and K and N filter without changing the exhaust? If so is there a noticeable difference and is it worth doing. Unfortunately given my situation I can't modify the exhaust (company car) but should be able to get away with intake/filter as it can easily be changed back to stock.

You will definitely get a gain. The NZ Mitsu site posts a graph with a 5 KW difference (flywheel) and the K&N will be a little more on top of that.

Hi All,

great to see some easy mods on the 380.

A question - has anyone changed to the 90mm intake and K and N filter without changing the exhaust? If so is there a noticeable difference and is it worth doing. Unfortunately given my situation I can't modify the exhaust (company car) but should be able to get away with intake/filter as it can easily be changed back to stock.

the gain will def be there if your gonna do the intake though get the whole box as well, while it's more expensive if you don't you will have to order one in because when you put the bigger intake into the original box you need to file away a plastic lip mitsu put in place so the smaller intake would fit, it will be easier in the long run just to replace the front of the box and the intake then put the orig back when you give the car back :D

thanks knotched will have to get a k&n as i got the snorkle last week and fitted it but there wasnt a noticable difference. don't happen to have a part no?
Part number for K & N is 33-2285.

thanks blue 380 another thing to add to the list - HECs, books, rego, insurance... :(
I know where your coming from with the bills...they're never ending!!!!!

You commented that you couldnt feel a difference with the 90mm intake...a few of us noticed a more substantial difference after a week or two of driving around. Apparently something to do with the computer adjusting. Knotched did dyno testing with the standard intake & then the larger one resulting in the 90mm giving a 13HP gain at the wheels so there is certainly something there. Both Knotched & I also found the K & N sharpened up the whole thing, making it much more responsive.

I cant recall if you've done the rear muffler change....I wouldnt think the gain with the intake would be as significant without a straight thru.

thanks knotched will have to get a k&n as i got the snorkle last week and fitted it but there wasnt a noticable difference. don't happen to have a part no?
Hey TJ Sports, its now been a while since fitting the 90mm intake...have you noticed any difference yet?? Did you end up getting the K & N???

Hey boys, couple of quick questions. I put a k&n & lukey on my TH and wow massive difference. now that I have my 380LX I would like to go down the same path, but I love the sound of my factory sports exhaust. I called Autoparts pro (local parts place good blokes) and they said their isn't a replacement K&N filter for the 380. Was like what ??? is their one that will fit? or do I have to do the box thing you guys are talking about? BTW I am fitting my stereo and when ordering the sat nav dash piece I got a free clock and dash piece let me know if any1 is interested.

Further to what TJ Sports said, when a few of us on here decided to get K & N's, most parts places said they didnt make them for 380's as they werent aware its the same filter that fits the US 3.8 Galant. The Oz supplier for them is Rocket Industries and they had them in stock for $99. If your going to get the filter, I would suggest spending another $47 and getting a 90mm air intake. Also, most of us on here have got straight thru mufflers (big gains to be had there) & I found it retained the same factory note, just made it a little louder & a bit deeper.

I would probably do the 3 mods if I could get the exact addresses and part numbers of the parts required

I would probably do the 3 mods if I could get the exact addresses and part numbers of the parts required
1) Check out this link for ordering the 90mm intake (cost $47 delivered) :
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56400&page=2
2) K & N part No. is 33-2285. Any car place can get it for you (Approx $100 - $130)
3) Any 2.5 inch straight thru muffler should be fine. Mine is a Berklee BSO655 cost $148 fitted without the chrome tip.
4) If you want an extra 2HP, remove the plastic engine cover (undo the 4 screws costs nothing)
5) If you want more air entering the intake, cut away the section of the rubber seal on the under side of your bonnet which runs directly in front of the intake. (Costs nothing, not sure if it gives HP increase)



Feel free to PM me if you want more info.

Maybe we should get this info *stickied* as a Parts Info thread.

Mods?

i'd suggest a sticky that just has the part numbers for the bits and where you can get them in a single locked post, so that way it wont get 'lost'

Titled something obvious like "380 DB snorkel/CAI and K&N part numbers and where to get them"

Maybe we should get this info *stickied* as a Parts Info thread.

Mods?
Yeah, you guys are right...it seems almost every week a new 380 owner is looking to do the mods and we have probably covered the same info about a dozen times in different threads.

Thanks boys, ill let you know how I go !!!

BTW will post stereo fit out and happy to provide 380 service manual to those that would like it.

Now ...i for one would love a copy of a service manual for the 380 .... ive hunted up hill n down dale for one

Now ...i for one would love a copy of a service manual for the 380 .... ive hunted up hill n down dale for one
There was one was posted here somewhere awhile ago. Don't know if its still around.

is there any photos somewhere of this 90mm pipe duct you guys are talking about I'm just not sure which part you are talking about, my brother just got a 380 and wants to do some basic mods

http://www.fotothing.com/photos/4e9/4e9401027cba3dbd87fb433b3cbb9494.jpg

The intake (center/front) in an import from the 3.8 litre U.S. Galant, and has more flow than the smaller one we have factory fitted, The K&N filter we use is for the Galant also, and seems to have no or a negative effect when fitted without the 90mm intake.

We dont know yet if we can now order the part in Oz, as it is now a genuine part off the TMR 380, most of us guys got them posted from the US for around 50.00, with about 1/2 an hours elbow grease to fit. ( #MN156778 ) from http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213714

If you dont want to file away at the front of your airbox, you can order that from the USA as well. (#MN180008 Air Cleaner Housing ) from
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213714

Its been discussed that its good for another 5 KW*, and 1 or 2 more with a K&N #33-2285.
Where the engine was previously restricted after 4000 RPM it can breate a little better, especially after fitting a straight through muffler.
*( 5KW gains a likely only after muffler/exhaust mods).
Then expect more power from your muffler/exhaust mods. Mufflers are pretty straight forword, but the exhaust opens a whole new can of worms.


So you can get this
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/pic94.jpg
To this
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/pic95.jpg

Or
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/pic2.jpg
to
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/pic4.jpg

More to come.....
Info and pictures taken from Zarbs, Knotched, Blue380 and s311_bvm without their permission, Thanks Boys

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/Pic6.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/Pic7.jpg

Theres not a lot work to it.

CAUTION
Fitting should be fairly straight forward, when filing down to the outer lip ( obvious when you have the 2 parts together) get this part flush all the way around or the front housing will probably crack!!!.....

This is a very simple, remove the small intake, undo the front of the airbox and file it out with love and tenderness.

There is also a few pics of 75mm (?) round tubing going straight to the airbox ancillary to the factory intake, definately worth a look.

Series I and II have a guard behind the grille, but it seems to be missing on III.

From Blue Platinum
http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/060.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/061.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/062.jpg

http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee217/SH00T/064.jpg

Disclaimer.

Once again thanks for the guys who have contribruted to the many previous threads, I dont want to steal images or ideas, If you are offended I will remove it. I reckon its about time it was done thats all.......


PM me if I missed any thing , I'll edit it in or out and then Post it in a thread of its own...

hey thanks a bunch for that I don't think I could of got a better reply.

Just ordered my K&N from Rocket Ind. ($94+post) and am now chasing the intake duct.

Rey Reece now show 2 parts with the same part number, one for the 3.8 GTS and one for the 3.8 Ralliart, but the illustration is different for each so I'm not sure.
Anyone remember which one they ordered?




Side Note: The K&N is available in the States for about US$50, but the postage/handling made the difference negligible.

One and the Same, I'd get the ralliart one though, coz its off a ralliartlol

Though the ralliart order might get rejected get the 3.8l

ordered a intake today. retail is $130+ but trade is $80.

how hard is it to fit these mods (K&N Air filter, 90mm intake + frontbox) onto the car for someone with not much experience. Is there any important "dont's" when doing this

The only hard bit is parting with the cash if you buy the front of the airbox. (no cutting required) There are 2 plastic screws for the intake itself and 2 bolts and a locator pin for the intake IIRC. A socket set with an extension and a philips head driver is required.
Mechanical difficulty 0.5/5. Getting permission from the partner to buy them is harder.lol
There is two walkthroughs here on fitting these. And the trickiest bit is getting the air filter back in.
But if you have your doubts, bring the bits and meet up with some members on a cruise. Front air box and intake swap out is 10 mins.

And for those who are mech minded


ordered a intake today. retail is $130+ but trade is $80.

Ours were about $55.00 inported all up, and not avail in Aus a year ago. But you will get yours faster.

will installing those mods void the Mitsubishi 5 year new car warranty?

will installing those mods void the Mitsubishi 5 year new car warranty?

i wouldnt think so.. the way i see it, you are using a mitsubishi deisgned part on your car - just it was not put on the cars from factory.
i see it personally as a factory part that you get over the parts counter.

if your that worried about it, swap it back out whenever you take it back to the dealership, as stated above its a quick swap.

will installing those mods void the Mitsubishi 5 year new car warranty?
No it won't.
I've had 1 dealer service (30,000) since fitting it (45,000 due soon) and I left it fitted at the time, with the engine cover removed and the front (of 2) rubber strip removed. They didn't say anything, and possibly didn't even notice or care.
Anyway, as said, this part/assembly was designed and made by Mitsubishi for the Galant in America. 380s in New Zealand had them fitted aparently - just not us - so fitting them shouldn't pose any warranty or legality problem (not like, say, those pod filters).
A lot of us here have fitted them and noone's had any trouble as yet.

awesome cheers

Hi guys, I just got my intake from the US. Didn't order the airbox. One concern I have is the current intake has a rubber seal around it at the airbox, the new intake didn't come with one, is this an issue?

Hi guys, I just got my intake from the US. Didn't order the airbox. One concern I have is the current intake has a rubber seal around it at the airbox, the new intake didn't come with one, is this an issue?
I ordered the airbox as well but I'll think you find the rubber seal is only there to bring the hole down to the size of the stock 70mm intake snorkel. I believe there is a small amount of filing to do but the snorkel will clip into the airbox securely with no leaks.

I removed the sealed box that is fitted to the bottom of the air box, Sounded great but I was worried about the whole warranty thing so I cut an opening in the bottom to let air in, This acts as another intake snorkel and its a free mod:D

I removed the sealed box that is fitted to the bottom of the air box, Sounded great but I was worried about the whole warranty thing so I cut an opening in the bottom to let air in, This acts as another intake snorkel and its a free mod:D
Just make sure you arent sucking in hot air from the engine bay otherwise you will probably lose power rather than gain it.

Hi I just installed the intake :D Once I had taken the original intake out of the airbox and seen how the US one fitted it was clear the rubber was not needed. After some filing and sanding to neaten it up, it fit like it was meant to be there! Woot.

Make sure you get the K&N panel filter to get the full benifit of the intake.

Make sure you get the K&N panel filter to get the full benifit of the intake.
Had the K&N installed for about a week and 1/2. This is purely anecdotal of course but it seemed the intake made a lot more noticble difference than the K&N alone. Of course it could all be placebo effect.

It takes a little while for the stock ecu to adjust to the increased flow.

Last night I noticed that the RPW 380 mod page at
http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=202&Itemid=51
had been updated recently, and the main change seemed to be this bit (under 3. Air Filters and Cold Air Induction Kits):

"Further options is to remove the lower section of the airbox which is a seperate part of the airbox mounted onto the chassis and clips into the lower portion of the air box. RPW has found that this resovoir, which is factory sealed, if cut on the end enables air to be sucked into the air box. The air is sourced from the inner passenger side guard and not only provides further cold air, but additionally, provides around a 25% increase in air flow into the airbox. RPW has successfully done this on many vehicles now with no side effects and fully protected from any water being ingetsted into the engine."

I remember another poster having trouble getting the filter box to suit a 90 mm US Galant snorkel (or maybe just the snorkel)and with his first try he got this 'secondary' or lower airbox instead. Can't find the thread though.

Anyway, rather than cut this box I decided to take it off altogether. But I could only get at and undo two of the three mounting bolts. But that was enough to disconnect it from the filter box, such that it now sits about three centimetres lower than it did before and a bit to the side and the rectangular hole in the bottom of the main filter box is now 'free'.

Took it for a spin and the sound was amazing! Still nice and quiet at small throttle openings, but it now lets out a nice deep roar when you give it the berries.

Also seems to have improved the throttle response, which now seems more instant & urgent.

Makes sense I think, I read somewhere that this secondary airbox is purely for noise reduction.

KJ.

Last night I noticed that the RPW 380 mod page at
http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=202&Itemid=51Also seems to have improved the throttle response, which now seems more instant & urgent.

Makes sense I think, I read somewhere that this secondary airbox is purely for noise reduction.

KJ.

That's interesting that RPW have done a little research on this. I didn't think they were very keen on doing much for the 380.

I might give this a try. Cutting the bottom airbox resonator isn't easy as you said. I've tried to access that bolt before without any luck.

That's interesting that RPW have done a little research on this. I didn't think they were very keen on doing much for the 380.

I might give this a try. Cutting the bottom airbox resonator isn't easy as you said. I've tried to access that bolt before without any luck.
kj380 or Richard, any chance one of you guys could take a photo of the part you are talking about?

I've tried to access that bolt before without any luck.
Richard, if you take off the passenger splash guard thingo you can get to all bolts .... still a bit painfull.
Other thing if you're really keen is jack the car & take out the passenger wheel well guard & it will all be extremely obvious then. I have mine out to run the ecu loom for the charger & there is a huge space down there to fit a pod :cool:

kj380 or Richard, any chance one of you guys could take a photo of the part you are talking about?
If you remove the front of your airbox you will see it below, it is held in by three bolts. To cut the end you will have to remove the splashguard or wheel well liner as stated above.

This latest mod of cutting the bottom air box is exactly what I did. It was done aprox 1 month ago and now the computer has adapted to the extra air Im sure the car goes better. Best of all it still looks stock.

This latest mod of cutting the bottom air box is exactly what I did. It was done aprox 1 month ago and now the computer has adapted to the extra air Im sure the car goes better. Best of all it still looks stock.
Did you go thru the wheel arch to cut it out?

Did you go thru the wheel arch to cut it out?
Easiest way if you just want to cut the end off would be to remove the passenger splash guard behind the front bumper/apron & if you look straight up you will see it. Probably a hacksaw blade or something would do the trick.

Richard, if you take off the passenger splash guard thingo you can get to all bolts .... still a bit painfull.
Other thing if you're really keen is jack the car & take out the passenger wheel well guard & it will all be extremely obvious then. I have mine out to run the ecu loom for the charger & there is a huge space down there to fit a pod :cool:

I tried to take off the splash guard so I could get at two of the three bolts (one of the bolts is easy to get at in the engine bay) but no way could I get those pesky little plastic screws to do anything other than go around and around . I tried levering the surrounding clip up with a scewdriver (which always worked for me before, on such things as the snorkel front screws), but no dice. There is no way to get at the third bolt without taking either the splash guard or the wheel well guard off. I managed to get at the second bolt (the only one that is vertical instead of horizontal) by poking a socket on a long extender bar up through a hole in the splash guard. But you need a really long extender bar.

Any ideas how to get those *^^&%&^ plastic screws undone? I'd like to remove the secondary airbox if I can, at the moment i've simply dropped it and jammed it tight up against the plastic splashguard. Also, if I ever want or need to put it back on again I reckon I could be in trouble if I can't get the splash guard off.

KJ.

What works for me is, get a very small screwdriver & carefully lever the centre plastic pin up enough to grab it with your fingernails. The centre pin will pull out easily & then the whole plastic clip will just pull out.

1) I've removed the front section of the airbox & can see the secondary air intake which runs towards the ground then does a right angle turn towards the front wheel. The part where this secondary intake terminates, is that the section to cut out?
2) the rear section of the airbox which stays attached has a type of mesh cover over the hole where air would enter towards the engine. Anyone know if that mesh serves a purpose (because it would be restricting air-flow)?

1) I've removed the front section of the airbox & can see the secondary air intake which runs towards the ground then does a right angle turn towards the front wheel. The part where this secondary intake terminates, is that the section to cut out?
2) the rear section of the airbox which stays attached has a type of mesh cover over the hole where air would enter towards the engine. Anyone know if that mesh serves a purpose (because it would be restricting air-flow)?
I assume you cut the end off it as it is a closed resonator. That would allow air to be drawn through the resonator from behind the bumper/apron.

The mesh does serve a purpose as I found out, it directs the airflow onto the MAF sensor, without this it will run like a dog at idle. I proved this when I put my Fujita CAI on, it is basically a hollow pipe which the MAF fits into. Without the mesh airflow director the idle was extremely erratic & the car would stall if allowed to keep running. If I bought the revs up it seemed to run fine, although I didn't try driving it under load to see what happened.

What I'm gonna do now is unbolt the mesh section from the back air box & bolt an adaptor up to it & a flex tube to join it to the bottom section of my Fujita CAI running down behind the bumper/apron to a pod filter. This will give it roughly twice the surface area of air cleaner to draw through.

I assume you cut the end off it as it is a closed resonator. That would allow air to be drawn through the resonator from behind the bumper/apron.

The mesh does serve a purpose as I found out, it directs the airflow onto the MAF sensor, without this it will run like a dog at idle. I proved this when I put my Fujita CAI on, it is basically a hollow pipe which the MAF fits into. Without the mesh airflow director the idle was extremely erratic & the car would stall if allowed to keep running. If I bought the revs up it seemed to run fine, although I didn't try driving it under load to see what happened.

What I'm gonna do now is unbolt the mesh section from the back air box & bolt an adaptor up to it & a flex tube to join it to the bottom section of my Fujita CAI running down behind the bumper/apron to a pod filter. This will give it roughly twice the surface area of air cleaner to draw through.
Thanks, I will give it a go tommorrow.

This sounds very interesting... I'd like to hear the engine sound under load after that.
Perhaps if RPW know so much about it, they'd know how to access/remove the reservoir.
I'd like to give it a go, if it is easier than so far appears.

Its not that hard to remove, I did it a while back when I tried my CAI. You will have to remove the passenger splashguard & one bolt is a bit painful to get out. It's a lot easier if you remove the wheel arch trim but a lot more pissing around.

Thanks Fooz, did the trick.

That last bolt was still a *&^&^ to get at, but now it's out.

Pics attached.

The third pic is looking down on it, the same view you would get in the engine bay after removing the top/main airbox. You can see the rectangular hole where it fits into (under) the main airbox.

Far as I can tell the hole that is now in the bottom of the main airbox should pick up reasonably cool air, its fairly low in the engine bay and away from any strong heat sources.

If not, I'll cut the end off the box I just removed and put it back on, although to keep all three mounting points I would have to cut it right at the far end, which would not be a very big hole and it would leave a long and bent path back to the main airbox.

Also, the box in the pics had a bit of leaf debris and dirt in it - I wonder if that's one of its functions, to trap this stuff and keep it away from the filter element?

KJ.

Thanks Fooz, did the trick.

That last bolt was still a *&^&^ to get at, but now it's out.

Pics attached.

The third pic is looking down on it, the same view you would get in the engine bay after removing the top/main airbox. You can see the rectangular hole where it fits into (under) the main airbox.

Far as I can tell the hole that is now in the bottom of the main airbox should pick up reasonably cool air, its fairly low in the engine bay and away from any strong heat sources.

If not, I'll cut the end off the box I just removed and put it back on, although to keep all three mounting points I would have to cut it right at the far end, which would not be a very big hole and it would leave a long and bent path back to the main airbox.

Also, the box in the pics had a bit of leaf debris and dirt in it - I wonder if that's one of its funtions, to trap this stuff and keep it away from the filter element?

KJ.
Thanks for the pics. Can you take another photo after you have cut it please???

Blue,

I intend to try it like it is - completely removed - for a few weeks, and I'll only cut it and put it back on if I think the intake air is too hot.

But if/when I do cut it I'll post pics.

KJ.

KJ, thanks for the pics.

What if you were just to cut it with a hacksaw halfway along the bottom ?
Give a bigger opening for air as well and still act as a bit of a reasonator.

Having it right off is probably the best. You might get a little more hot air that way, especially compared to where it's coming from now. Something else to think about is air pressure. Where the intake scavengers air now is just in front of the radiator. There must be a high pressure air zone there (at speed) that would help feed the intake. Coming through the open reasonator might affect that a bit.

Overall it should make a difference to initial pick up because it can scavenge from more open sources immediately.

How much louder it is, is of interest to all of us as well. If it's no different at idle and cruise (hwy) that would be a good outcome.

Knotched,

I haven't given it a decent run yet, just down to the shops & back, about 10k all up in 60 & 50k zones.

So I don't know what it's like at say a steady 110km in 5th gear (around 2,900 rpm).

What I can say so far, regards noise/sound is:

No difference at all at idle, nice & quiet.

No difference I can detect in first gear, even with plenty of right boot. Can't quite figure why this is, but I suspect there is some truth in the rumour that the ECU limits torque in first gear in a manual like mine - it just never seems to want to give its all in first, so if I'm in a hurry I short shift up to second at around 4500 rpm.

Big difference when booted in second gear - noticable deep & sexy induction roar which rises with revs, loud but not too loud. Just sounds b....y good! And feels like it goes better too, as I said before feels like stronger and more immediate throttle response. But I could just be getting fooled by the sexy note!

No difference in upper gears (3rd 4th & 5th) at low revs, whether cruising or booting it. But I haven't gone over 80km/h yet so can't be sure how it would sound at 'serious' speeds in 3rd, 4th or 5th.

I'll take it for a better run soon & report back.

KJ.

That's very impressive. Another simple 380 mod!
Though I recall when this was looked at ages ago, someone (can't remember who know) said that removing the reservoir would make no difference at all, though I don't anyone actually did it either.
If you're taking photos, could you (or someone) take more pics of the removal process?
I'd be very interested in how this mod integrates with the other standard 380 mods we've made (like K&N filter and straight-thru muffler).

eagerly awaiting someone to do a dyno run so we can see some results :D

Though I recall when this was looked at ages ago, someone (can't remember who know) said that removing the reservoir would make no difference at all, though I don't anyone actually did it either.


That might have been Type40 when he received the reasonator from the States instead of the 90mm intake lol
He took it right off at one stage.
But he never reported getting a serious gain from his car, period, and we never got to the bottom of why not. So it wasn't a true indication.

That might have been Type40 when he received the reasonator from the States instead of the 90mm intake lol
He took it right off at one stage.
But he never reported getting a serious gain from his car, period, and we never got to the bottom of why not. So it wasn't a true indication.
Yeah that rings a bell. His car's lack-of-power problem was probably the reason this "mod" made no difference for him and why it has never been looked at again, til now.

Just got back from a longer run.

Max speed limit of only 90km/h though, have to go a long way out of my way to find anything higher these days of Nanny state ridiculously low speed limits.

The news is all good.

Regardless of gear, as long as you boot it, the good stuff (sexy noise and increased response) kicks in at 2500 rpm all the way through to 6,000 rpm (not in 5th of course, that would equate to an indicated 240km/h!). For light throttle applications or cruising it's quiet enough not to upset Granny.

Cruises on 110km/h in 5th nice & quiet, little bit of noise in 4th.

Winds out better than it used to in 3rd gear, previously 3rd would die at 110km/h but now it pulls hard to 125km/h. Funny that my old TE 3 litre would pull to 150km/h in 3rd no worries - mainly down to much shorter gearing and final drive ratio in the 380, plus extractors & Unichip on the TE.

I also have all the 'standard' low cost mods - Berklee straight through, 90 mm snorkel, K&N panel, enlarged inlet hole in front of snorkel, piece of rubber bonnet strip removed.

And I'm approaching 30,000k when apparently the motor really loosens up and comes good.

So far I reckon removing the resonator is a worthwhile mod and it adds to all the other little mods to turn a 'family' car into something with quite decent poke.

And it costs nothing, just a little time & elbow grease.

KJ.

Sounds good KJ.

I'll have to try it. Do you have to unbolt thta bugger under the arch - or just cut through the plastic?

Also, I'm surprised about your 3rd gear. The auto 3rd is the best ratio by far. It winds out well past 140kmh and is unsurpassed for overtaking at 110kmh. 2nd is OK up to about 80 but useless after that. The most useless ratio IMO for the auto is 4th, which I hardly use.

But getting back to your seat of the pants test - the fact u think it winds out better in 3rd is a good indication you're getting more neddies.

I cut a large whole along the flat bottom aprox 100mm x 15mm The res sits close to the ground so Im hoping ill draw cold air remembering that warm air will rise. I dont Know if this is the best place to cut it was just the most direct interms of flow. I drove around for a couple of weeks with the res totally removed and it sounded really sexy under heavy acceleration but I felt the car may have lost some low down grunt. Strange because kj380 felt he gained grunt down low:nuts: Maybe the fact he owns a manual has something to do with it? Anyway the mod does give results. The best way to remove the res is to take off the entire intake from the throttle body forward, This will make access to all the bolts much easier.

Knotched,

No cutting of anything required.

First remove the snorkel and front half of the top / main airbox - two plastic screw/clips and two bolts, plenty of threads here showing how to do it, it's really easy. But it helps to have a ratchet with a long (approx 20cm) extender bar to reach down to the bolts.

You'll now be able to see the top of the resonator box, and one of it's three retaining bolts (towards the passenger side of the car, on the side of the engine bay, directly under the ECU). Use a ratchet handle with a small extender bar and a 10mm socket to remove the bolt.

Next, remove the passenger side plastic splash guard (underneath the engine bay, in the front passenger side corner of the car). Eight or ten little plastic screws/clips to be removed. Take Fooz's advice and lever up the little plastic screw in the middle, then grab it with you finger nails (I used needle nosed pliers) and just pull it out. Don't try to turn the plastic screws, it's a waste of time.

Then, from underneath the car, you'll be able to see the other two retaining bolts. But they aren't easy to spot, you'll need good lighting and/or a torch. Just look and feel around the bottom of the resonator and you'll either see or feel the plastic extensions that the bolts go through. Check out the pics. One bolt is on the other side of the metal rail that you unscrewed the first bolt from, parallel to the first bolt but pointing in the opposite direction and it's a bit of a p***k to get at. I used a ratchet with a short extender bar and had to fiddle the socket around a bit to get it to seat. The other bolt points upwards, i.e. vertical and not horizontal like the first two, and it's over towards the wheel well. You'll need the long extender bar to reach it.

Once you've got these bolts out the resonator just falls out the bottom of the car, and you're nearly done!

Put the splash guard back on - hint - take the little screws out of their clips first, push the clip into place then shove the screw in, don't bother trying to screw it in. To get the screw out of the clip hold the back of the clip with needle nosed pliers and screw the screw out (this is the only time you ever treat it as a screw!).

Then stick your filter panel back in, put the front half of the main airbox back on (don't forget the two bolts!) and last but not least, shove your snorkel back on.

If you're at all mechanically minded shouldn't take any more than an hour. Cheapest easiest and best sounding performance mod going!

KJ.

Good write up kj380, I will be out first thing in the morning to try it.

I cut a large whole along the flat bottom aprox 100mm x 15mm The res sits close to the ground so Im hoping ill draw cold air remembering that warm air will rise. I dont Know if this is the best place to cut it was just the most direct interms of flow. I drove around for a couple of weeks with the res totally removed and it sounded really sexy under heavy acceleration but I felt the car may have lost some low down grunt. Strange because kj380 felt he gained grunt down low:nuts: Maybe the fact he owns a manual has something to do with it? Anyway the mod does give results. The best way to remove the res is to take off the entire intake from the throttle body forward, This will make access to all the bolts much easier.

Hmmm...OK. So do you feel with the bottom of the resonator cut like you have it, that bottom end grunt is still there, or unaffected?

The manuals have more low end torque than the autos.

Sounds good KJ.

I'll have to try it. Do you have to unbolt thta bugger under the arch - or just cut through the plastic?

Also, I'm surprised about your 3rd gear. The auto 3rd is the best ratio by far. It winds out well past 140kmh and is unsurpassed for overtaking at 110kmh. 2nd is OK up to about 80 but useless after that. The most useless ratio IMO for the auto is 4th, which I hardly use.

But getting back to your seat of the pants test - the fact u think it winds out better in 3rd is a good indication you're getting more neddies.

Knotched,

It's all down to gearing and final drive ratios.

Manual Auto

3rd 1.407 1.421
5th .804 .686
Final drive 4.111 3.325

Multiply the gear ratio by the final drive and you get an 'overall' ratio.

So for 3rd gear that works out at 5.784 for the manual and 4.725 for the auto.

That's a difference of 22.4%.

So if a manual winds out to 120km/h, the auto should wind out to 146km/h.

Sounds about right for our cars.

5th is an even bigger difference, 45%, due the very tall 5th gear in the auto (.686).

That's why the auto cruises at much lower revs in 5th than the manual.

Also explains why 3rd is good for you for highway overtaking but no good for me.

I use 4th where you use 3rd, but I've been caught a couple of times thinking I'm still in the TE. I've changed back to third at 110km/h (where the TE really took off), and got nothing but revs! Back into 4th and then it gets going.

2nd in the stock 380 manual wasn't much use over 80kmh, but now with all the little/cheap mods it pulls to 90 km/h, if still a little breathless at the top end. The TE used to pull 2nd to 110km/h no problems.

Even after 5 months I'm still coming to grips with the 380 gearing/torque/power curve, it's completely different to the TE.

Ideally what I'm after one day, when I have the cash, is the low down & mid range torque of the 380 with the top end and 'revvability' of the TE. But these two things are usually mutually exclusive unless you spend big bickies on FI and/or internal mods.

KJ

[QUOTE=Knotched]Hmmm...OK. So do you feel with the bottom of the resonator cut like you have it, that bottom end grunt is still there, or unaffected?


Id have to say performance has been improved through out the whole rev range with res in place. With res totally removed I think the engine draws warm air from the radiator. At first I was going to run some drainage tubing up to the airbox opening but this was easier. Like most mods the computer needs time to adjust.

kj380,
Do you need to jack the car up or use ramps to get the front end up enough off the ground to get under? Or can you access the underneath areas without raising?

You will need to jack the car if it is lowered definately.

You will need to jack the car if it is lowered definately.

Agreed.

Even if not lowered it will be hard to get at two of the bolts unless you jack it up.

Of course, with any work under a jacked up car, make sure you use axle stands & wheel chocks.

KJ.

Agreed.

Even if not lowered it will be hard to get at two of the bolts unless you jack it up.

Of course, with any work under a jacked up car, make sure you use axle stands & wheel chocks.

KJ.
Oh. I might bail out then... I removed the front half airbox and can see the reservoir clearly. I've removed half a dozen plastic screws from the cover in the wheel well. I can't remove 1 screw, but the cover is loose enough that I can pull it back and see the underneath of the reservoir. I was just getting a torch when I read this reply... Yeah car is lowered but I don't have axle stands or chocks (or ramps). Without these it would appear impossible to proceed.

Mission aborted. I put everything is back on again.
I've seen all three bolts, but the 2 inside the wheel well are too hard to get at. I need more tools and more arms!
Personally, I'd prefer to pay someone to do it for me, especially with those horrid plastic screws! I mashed the heads of about 3 of them. :rant:
EDIT: Although I had sufficent access to the bottom of the reservoir (with it still bolted in place) I considered cutting a hole in it as that would appear easier than removing the whole thing... but that of course is irreversable.

That's a difference of 22.4%.

So if a manual winds out to 120km/h, the auto should wind out to 146km/h.



Although I knew the difference theoretically, the way you have explained it practically, has highlighted the difference. I hope Poita has read this.
The manual needs a six speed.

Back on topic...

Blue, have you done yours?

Although I knew the difference theoretically, the way you have explained it practically, has highlighted the difference. I hope Poita has read this.
The manual needs a six speed.

Back on topic...

Blue, have you done yours?
Not yet Rich, I started getting cold feet when specialk mentioned the car went better with the res back on.

My own thoughts are that just removing the res will just cause the air box to suck in hot air from the engine bay which is counter productive. I think for it to work properly it needs to be cut around the right angle bend so it sucks cold air from below the car (similar to the lower secondary intakes on FPV Typhoon's). However, as Grubco stated once cut, its irreversible. I suppose worse case scenario is if I cut it and for some reason I'm not happy, I just have to buy another res from Mits.....

Yes, there'd no turning back once it done (hence I didn't do anything), but after reading the linked RPW write-up I've come to 2 conclusions... 1) they cut an area of the reservoir at its furtherst end thus accessing cooler area from down near the wheel well, which would probably make for a quieter induction sound depending on the size of the cut-out area - but this mod can't be reversed, and 2) removing the reservoir completely would both increase the airflow and induction noise, but the air would surely be warmer than option 1, but induction roar much louder - and this mod could be reversed if unhappy/ selling car, etc.
But with no tools for the job, I quit - though I did get a very good look at this reservoir from top and bottom.
Best option for me is to await more feedback from other users, and then go to RPW and get their quote to do it for me.

i tried it on mine after i read this thread and it does make more noise from 3000rpm i wish it would make more noise down low tho but i reckon its got more power seems to spin the wheels right through 1st and thats on 245 pirelli dragons :)

That sounds good.

I think it might be time to get busy.

Pete, I'm probably going to cut mine where you're thinking of doing it. If it goes wrong it's a $25 part (hopefully). Not like it's going to permanently damage anything.

If we lose slightly down low, well, how much torque has a 380 got? Too much, off the line if you ask me!

That sounds good.

I think it might be time to get busy.

Pete, I'm probably going to cut mine where you're thinking of doing it. If it goes wrong it's a $25 part (hopefully). Not like it's going to permanently damage anything.

If we lose slightly down low, well, how much torque has a 380 got? Too much, off the line if you ask me!
What the heck, looks like its time to get the hacksaw out!!!

Thinking about it, maybe the airbox is drawing air that is a bit too hot with the resonator completely removed. And maybe a little too loud under full throttle. And why would RPW talk about cutting the end off if simply removing the resonator did the trick?

So I've bitten the bullet and cut the end off it, see pics.

Was dead easy even with a blunt hacksaw blade, the plastic is relatively soft.

Will put it back on tomorrow and report how it sounds & goes.

KJ

lol sounds like a hoover on steriods lol

:bowrofl: Haha love it!

This mod should work ok, 3 of 4 Magna 380 racer's here in S.A. do a similar thing and it's been dyno proven.
The stock inlet hole is left open under the bonnet and there's another hole added with flex-pipe sourcing air from lower front. Yes I know it's 3.5 intake, but similar story.
Pic's,car 40, page3, Mallala thread,S.A. sect.

OK, I've now put the cut resonator back on.

But looking at where the cut end of it sits, I couldn't see much of a path for air, it's blocked off by the wheel well and the plastic undertray.

Then I noticed it sits right behind the driving light hole, which on my base model has no light, just a black plastic clip in cover.

So I took the cover off (easy when the plastic undertray is removed, just squeeze the tangs on the back of the passenger side clip, and unclip the power wire attached to the back of the cover, and push it out).

The resulting hole didn't look too flash though, too many exposed brackets & flanges (ready to connect a driving light).

So I simply cut a square hole in the middle of the cover and clipped it back on.

Bit of mucking about cutting the hole, used a Stanley knife, but looks OK now, see pics.

Doesn't look anywhere near as rough in the flesh as it does in the pics, and from dead front on at normal height (i.e. not squatting or laying down) you cant see the bit of plastic light bracket on the right (driver's side) of the hole.

From a distance you'd have trouble picking the hole at all.

If you look closely at the second pic you can see the end of the resonator - the angled black plastic bit on the left.

I also stuck a bit of double sided tape on the top edge of the cover so it now sits nice & tight with no wobble or rattle. These covers are a very loose wobbly fit!

Took it for a drive, and found:

1. Big reduction in noise. No more loudish induction roar, more a gentle growl. Still there, but very much in the background rather than 'in yer face'.

2. No detectable difference in performance - still has improved throttle response and still winds out through the gears a little better.

So in effect I now have a 'free' smallish diameter CAI as well as the top mounted 90mm snorkel.

KJ.

hrm almost doesn't seem worth it.

2. No detectable difference in performance - still has improved throttle response and still winds out through the gears a little better.

KJ.


As in " no detectable reduction in the gain I felt" ?

Thinking about it, maybe the airbox is drawing air that is a bit too hot with the resonator completely removed. And maybe a little too loud under full throttle. And why would RPW talk about cutting the end off if simply removing the resonator did the trick?

So I've bitten the bullet and cut the end off it, see pics.

Was dead easy even with a blunt hacksaw blade, the plastic is relatively soft.

Will put it back on tomorrow and report how it sounds & goes.

KJ
Interesting. That's still a rather large hole you made, bigger than I imagined.
Before I read your next post, I was thinking today of how it would be possible to feed some flex pipe to the cut-out or bottom on airbox (with reservoir removed) and attaching it down to the lower grille or something. But I didn't realise the far end of that reservoir is so close to the driving light area - not much use to me as I have the lights fitted - but you could get a set of foglight panels just to use the round hole as in intake (that panel is black so would hide even moreso).
I never believed this mod would gain huge horsepower differences, but logically more air (and cooler air) must be good for the engine and performance... so if the other guys (Knotched, Blue380) tend to approve of the results, I'll do it too. Even with little gains, it is still a free mod (and as you rightly said, "free cai").

... so if the other guys (Knotched, Blue380) tend to approve of the results, I'll do it too. Even with little gains, it is still a free mod (and as you rightly said, "free cai").

I don't know. It's worth a try as it's a pretty benign little mod.

I've just discussed this by PM with Foozr who's done a fair bit of research on the EVO/Galant forums in the States. He believes a proper pod with CAI will deliver far more air than the current airbox and filter can. Gains in the States have been 12 KW.
I am more tempted trying a properly set up pod filter, but it has to mate to the OZ inlet to the MAF. Maybe McHenry can post some detailed shots of his setup and if he does a dyno run it might give us an indication how much better it is.

. Maybe McHenry can post some detailed shots of his setup and if he does a dyno run it might give us an indication how much better it is.
Here is a link for photos of Mchenry's set up.
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59809&page=2

I don't know. It's worth a try as it's a pretty benign little mod.

I've just discussed this by PM with Foozr who's done a fair bit of research on the EVO/Galant forums in the States. He believes a proper pod with CAI will deliver far more air than the current airbox and filter can. Gains in the States have been 12 KW.
I am more tempted trying a properly set up pod filter, but it has to mate to the OZ inlet to the MAF. Maybe McHenry can post some detailed shots of his setup and if he does a dyno run it might give us an indication how much better it is.
Well SHOOT told me about the panel right infront of where my pod is situated and once removing it it should allow more air forced into the immediate area of the pod, so when I get home I will be removing that and see if there is any difference. Im hoping to fit in a Dyno while im home. Just need to find a cheap place for a run.

We need some sort of expert to fabricate a proper box for the pod using air from that panel area.

Re the pod, McHenry, is it oval shape (looks like it in the photos)? Does it have an end plate? from the photo looks like it is hollow?

Any chance you could post some close ups particularly where it mates to the original sensor assembly?

And lastly, where did you get yours - in Brisbane?

We need some sort of expert to fabricate a proper box for the pod using air from that panel area.

Re the pod, McHenry, is it oval shape (looks like it in the photos)? Does it have an end plate? from the photo looks like it is hollow?

Any chance you could post some close ups particularly where it mates to the original sensor assembly?

And lastly, where did you get yours - in Brisbane?
Yeah it has an end plate. All I did was cut the WHOLE air box out (just before the MAF sensor) then replace it with the pod, she fit over just fine. Everything that I used, I got from Autobarn. Took approx 10 to 15mins to do. Simple. When I get home, I will take more in depth pics and post them if you would all like.

Yeah it has an end plate. All I did was cut the WHOLE air box out (just before the MAF sensor) then replace it with the pod,

Heheh, radical! So there is no way to dissasemble the airbox from the MAF; it's just one molded plastic part?

Heheh, radical! So there is no way to dissasemble the airbox from the MAF; it's just one molded plastic part?
Just after the attachment (heading towards the air intake from the engine), you will find the plastic plate that it used to hold the MAF sensor and the air box together, you can either unbolt from there (kinda hard to replace something plastic that will bolt straight on, or do what I did and cut the air box out, which then allows the pod just to slip over the top of the existing pipe work, then just use a pipe clamp to fix pod and heat shield (if you want one). Easy to reassemble if you wanna sell etc, just use a piece of flexi pipe and pipe clamps and your done.

I have unbolted mine & there is basically a flange on the end of the MAF. When I was at supercheap the other day I noticed they had several different flange adaptors which I'm sure one will fit. Once I get the charger on & see if it sorta lines up, I'm going to get a flange adaptor & some silicon hose or something to join it to the pod pipe I already have.

I have unbolted mine & there is basically a flange on the end of the MAF. When I was at supercheap the other day I noticed they had several different flange adaptors which I'm sure one will fit. Once I get the charger on & see if it sorta lines up, I'm going to get a flange adaptor & some silicon hose or something to join it to the pod pipe I already have.
Sounds like a good idea. Wish I knew about the flange adaptors before I hacked mine to death!

Sounds like a good idea. Wish I knew about the flange adaptors before I hacked mine to death!
Well I stumbled across them when I was looking for oil. It's where they have all the hoses for intercoolers etc. There are a number of plates with slotted holes so shouldn't be too hard to find one that fits.

Well I stumbled across them when I was looking for oil. It's where they have all the hoses for intercoolers etc. There are a number of plates with slotted holes so shouldn't be too hard to find one that fits.
True true, should have paid more attention before I got stuck into it!:redface:

OK. So how would the pod assembly attach to the flange adaptor; or is that exactly what it's for (der! scuse my thickheaded questions) ?

OK. So how would the pod assembly attach to the flange adaptor; or is that exactly what it's for (der! scuse my thickheaded questions) ?
Ummmm ....... yes Richard lol

You just buy one to fit the pod you're using

Ummmm ....... yes Richard lol
Ok, Ok. I'll shut up now :D

OK. So how would the pod assembly attach to the flange adaptor; or is that exactly what it's for (der! scuse my thickheaded questions) ?
From memory (just looked on the net) the flange adaptors have approx 1" of tube that you can attach the pod to and fix with a pipe clamp. There is a pod (the one I have) from Autobarn which fits EXACTLY over the top. The part number is RR-3003.

Ah-ha, thanks mate!

Looks like we're steering away from the reservoir chopping idea. It does make sense that a good pod set-up would be far better... but that requires more custom work (piping, custom enclosure for pod, etc).

Looks like we're steering away from the reservoir chopping idea. It does make sense that a good pod set-up would be far better... but that requires more custom work (piping, custom enclosure for pod, etc).

If you want a CAI, yes, that will involve more thought and piping as you've said. But if you want more air into the engine then this way is simple.
It means removing the whole airbox assembly, installing the flange adaptor and pod and that's it.

If required, you'll be able to reinstall the airbox.

I think the standard airbox configuration is far too restrictive, and even with warm air from the engine bay, the car will be better off. The very fact we are getting so much induction roar when you open the airbox through the resonator means it's being starved.

I'm a bit concerned about you guys just hanging a pod off the end of the MAF with a flange adaptor & nothing else. The part we are talking about that hangs off the throttle body & includes the MAF is quite flexible & with the weight of the pod on it would be flogging around all over the place?? :shock:

Cable ties are your friend....lol

They are, but from memory there is nothing close to tie too & with the motor moving with torque I'd say thats why that part is flexible. McHenry did you find it moved around a fair bit? I'm a bit sus on this setup :doubt:

I dug up the original pic of my Fujita CAI. The longer pipe goes down into the area where the resonator sits & the pod goes on the end. The mount you can see secures to the original airbox mount. Since I am not using the MAF section I will need to weld another mount to the downpipe so it sits in place securely. Like I said once the charger is on I expect there will be enough flex in the stock MAF section to join these two together with an adaptor plate & hose or flex joint.

I'll have to check the airbox assembly myself for an answer. I have had it completely apart a few times but that was around 18 months ago.
Might be able to use one of the airbox mounts in a similiar way for a metal band or something similiar to fix the pod in place.

I'll have to check the airbox assembly myself for an answer. I have had it completely apart a few times but that was around 18 months ago.
Might be able to use one of the airbox mounts in a similiar way for a metal band or something similiar to fix the pod in place.
What you might be able to do if you don't mind butchering your airbox is slicing the front section top off & somehow mount the pod in the original airbox area. This would then use the stock box mounts to secure everything & the factory box would act as a heatshield from the underbonnet temps. I thought about trying to mount the pod in the airbox but it wont fit, it would need to be sliced.

Ive seen the K&N apollo CAI setup at my local repco. Go to official K&N site to see pics. Im sure this system will fit the 380 if anyone is serious about fitting a CAI and its readily available.

All these pod / CAI set ups sound good in theory, but I’m still a little worried that most of them draw hot air from in the engine bay.
Anyway, have a little story to tell about my free ’virtual CAI’ set up (cut end off resonator, cut hole in driving light hole cover).
Last night I was following a Chrysler 300C V8, SA rego 300 V8. Not the SRT 6.1 litre version, but an older 5.7 litre. It had a huge exhaust system, I mean twin 4 inch pipes, and sounded like he had done a bit of work on it.
We pulled up at a set of lights side by side, 80km/h zone, no traffic. He gave it a few revs so I thought ‘what the heck, let’s see how I go against a quick car’.
I didn’t get a great take off but I kept going, and by the time I hit 110km/h in third gear and then buttoned off I was a couple of car lengths ahead of him.
Also, for the first time, I not only chirped the wheels on the 1st to 2nd change but also on the 2nd to 3rd change.
We pulled up at the next lights and he leaned over and said “You know I wasn’t really trying don’t you”.
I replied something like “yeah, I could tell”, and then he said “what have you got under there, I could hear the turbo kick in”. I’m guessing he heard the intake roar, subdued as it now is. He was shocked when I said no turbo, just a NA 3.8 with very minor exhaust & intake mods.
So this time when the lights changed he really tried. He got a two car length lead on me almost straight away, but that was about it, he didn’t pull away much at all after that.
Just goes to show that the old bus doesn’t go too bad with minor mods.

KJ.

snip*

KJ.

These cars are extremely underrated, even by the third Genners.

But we still haven't really unlocked their potential. If we all went to extractors and second stage cams we'd be running close to 200kw atw.

I really wish one of you manual guys would get dynoed.

It just goes to show kj that these minor mods we are doing are very effective (although I once compared my car to a 5.7 on here and copped a mountain of flak from other sections on this forum!!!)

Whilst I encourage the others to explore the pod set up, I will follow your path at this stage and try the 'cut off res mod' first (just need to find the time to get it done).

Looks like a bit of work to come, still need the intake and filter but doing the other intake mod looks the go as well.
Thinking of selling off the 17's and getting some 19" to close up the guards a bit. How do all your guys cars ride on the 19's.
Keeping it a bit longer so may as well enjoy it

Thinking of selling off the 17's and getting some 19" to close up the guards a bit. How do all your guys cars ride on the 19's.
Keeping it a bit longer so may as well enjoy it

All good. I was really wary of a harder ride but it's fine on 45 profile tyres.

i wont fit a pod to my 380 unless i got rid of the maf sensor. the maf sensor is a vortex type. they dont like swirly air as it gives false readings.


regarding 19 mines fine. want firmer suspension but ill settle for kings with oem struts.

I'm still leaning towards to the cut-off option too... as its a free mod that theoretically should feed more air and cooler air into the engine. And if it doesn't work out, a) the reservoir can be replaced, or b) the whole system can be replaced with cai instead.
I know the pod set-up would be better, but it would also cost more (compared to $0 for the chop job). And the cai has to be set-up properly, and (to my understanding) needs to be fitted in an enclosure (custom made, more $$$) to be legal. With the enclosore installed, it seems to me that the pod is still somewhat starved of all the air it could otherwise suck in. And without the enclosure while the pod could suck in as much air as it could grab, it would all be warm/hot air. However if the cai can have the pod located down near the area of the reservoir chop opening, that should have good results.
So many questions...

Looks like a bit of work to come, still need the intake and filter but doing the other intake mod looks the go as well.
Thinking of selling off the 17's and getting some 19" to close up the guards a bit. How do all your guys cars ride on the 19's.
Keeping it a bit longer so may as well enjoy it
You won't regret the 19s. The ride is firmer but I like that. I was concerned about the life of 19s (before I bought them), but am currently rotating them every 5,000km - so far so good.
While the 19s do not look HUGE, they do look like "the right size" for the 380 shape (mine had 16s standard which looked so small).

Still on intake mods......the guys on the Ford Forums are using heat resistant paint or foam on their intakes/air boxes to reduce heat soak from the engine bay and keep air temps down. Possibly another cheap & easy mod....anyone tried this???

i wont fit a pod to my 380 unless i got rid of the maf sensor. the maf sensor is a vortex type. they dont like swirly air as it gives false readings.


regarding 19 mines fine. want firmer suspension but ill settle for kings with oem struts.
If you leave the factory MAF guides in the airstream it will be fine.

Thinking of selling off the 17's and getting some 19" to close up the guards a bit. How do all your guys cars ride on the 19's.
Mine has 19's with 35 series tyres, it is firm & you need to dodge potholes but the handling & direct steering makes it worthwhile.

You won't regret the 19s. The ride is firmer but I like that. I was concerned about the life of 19s (before I bought them), but am currently rotating them every 5,000km - so far so good.
While the 19s do not look HUGE, they do look like "the right size" for the 380 shape (mine had 16s standard which looked so small).

When i purchased the car i got the dealer to get the rims/tyres for me 245/45/17 Rolling dia is smaller than the 16 stock rims. I had about 1/2 hr to decide on wheels. Could go the 55 series tyres to get it back up but the sound of 19's sound better

When i purchased the car i got the dealer to get the rims/tyres for me 245/45/17 Rolling dia is smaller than the 16 stock rims. I had about 1/2 hr to decide on wheels. Could go the 55 series tyres to get it back up but the sound of 19's sound better
Talking about sound ..... more road noise too. Doesn't worry me though, I would never go smaller.

Road noise will be the least of my worry when I get back on the road, with the new bigger exhaust, CAI pod roaring, walbro pump whining, supercharger screaming & the tyres shreading I won't hear a thing :bowrofl:

...plus better traction.

I found traction was improved quite a bit with 19s and the increased tyre footprint.

I'm still leaning towards to the cut-off option too... as its a free mod that theoretically should feed more air and cooler air into the engine. And if it doesn't work out, a) the reservoir can be replaced, or b) the whole system can be replaced with cai instead.
I know the pod set-up would be better, but it would also cost more (compared to $0 for the chop job). And the cai has to be set-up properly, and (to my understanding) needs to be fitted in an enclosure (custom made, more $$$) to be legal. With the enclosore installed, it seems to me that the pod is still somewhat starved of all the air it could otherwise suck in. And without the enclosure while the pod could suck in as much air as it could grab, it would all be warm/hot air. However if the cai can have the pod located down near the area of the reservoir chop opening, that should have good results.
So many questions...
What do you mean if it doesnt work out??? The only thing that can happen {cutting res} is more power:badgrin: This mod is so simple, not to mention cheap I cant beleive some members are sceptical. Both KJ380 and myself have done this mod and raved about it, What have you got to lose mate? Finally the K&N apollo CAI kit I mentioned is a fully sealed unit and looks real good,

That thing looks even more weightier to hang off the front of the flexible MAF pipe, you will need some sort of bracketry to support it.

This is what RPW have to say on their website for what its worth about the K&N - "RPW imports the K&N kits into Australia for those wanting this more show qaulity look. But in all honesty, stock airbox with the modifeid air intake on both ends is superior to an aftermarket cold air kit."

But in all honesty, stock airbox with the modifeid air intake on both ends is superior to an aftermarket cold air kit."

Mmmm. So cut the resonator and it's superior. Fair enough. I suppose they've done some testing on it to make that claim.

Who knows with RPW but I think cutting the resonator would be a good start. An open pod not restricted by a enclosure would still have to be better but IMO.

They are, but from memory there is nothing close to tie too & with the motor moving with torque I'd say thats why that part is flexible. McHenry did you find it moved around a fair bit? I'm a bit sus on this setup :doubt:
Yeah when I first installed it, I didnt you any support to hold it on. When I took it for a drive it moved around that much that it actually fell off (and boy did she get up and boogy!!). So I made up a little bracket that would screw into the existing air box mount. Wasnt to hard to do, just used a bit of flat bar.

Well since you all may have seen my supercharger is on now & this arvo I bolted up the throttle body. Just looking at the angles etc I reckon if I go get a flange adaptor & a silicon 45 degree bend I should be able to run my pod down where the resonator box resides. Will give it a go & let you know how I go & get some pics too if it's successful :cool:

What do you mean if it doesnt work out??? The only thing that can happen {cutting res} is more power:badgrin: This mod is so simple, not to mention cheap I cant beleive some members are sceptical. Both KJ380 and myself have done this mod and raved about it, What have you got to lose mate? Finally the K&N apollo CAI kit I mentioned is a fully sealed unit and looks real good,
Yeah I agree with you guys. I still favour this mod for its ease and price... even if its effects are minimal, it is still a free mod. But logically the gains should be good; you can't go wrong with more fresh air in the engine. By suggesting it might not work, I only meant that if it were to fail in completely satisfying the driver, they could easily reverse it (by replacing with new item).
At this stage I'm not interested in the cold air intake with pod system, even though I recognise it would be superior in performance (and cost).

I finally pulled my finger out & cut off the bottom section of the resonator (will post picks tommorrow.) Took it for a spin & couldnt really notice a difference in performance or induction sound but perhaps it will take a week or two like the 90mm intakes to get the full effect.

Did however have one mini disaster...become a little overzealous when tightening the top bolt of the res bracket and snapped it off clean. The result was the res was slightly dropping out the bottom of the airbox. Looks like I've temporarily reapaired it but will take it to my auto electrician mate who will hopefully have something to retrieve the sheared off bolt & I can then just replace it with a new one.

Will keep you guys update in the future with any gains from the mod.

Did however have one mini disaster...become a little overzealous when tightening the top bolt of the res bracket and snapped it off clean. The result was the res was slightly dropping out the bottom of the airbox. Looks like I've temporarily reapaired it but will take it to my auto electrician mate who will hopefully have something to retrieve the sheared off bolt & I can then just replace it with a new one.


Bugger. I think you should now replace the whole assembly with a pod :P :cool:

Went shopping this arvo, bought a flange adaptor & a silcone 45 degree intercooler pipe. Will have to have a play now & see if I can sort this pod setup out.

By the way the flange adaptor is for a WRX, perfect fit on the front of our MAF, bolt holes line up too. :cool:

Got a part no. (flange) ?

Please? :D

Got a part no. (flange) ?

Please? :D
From Supercheap, its a Calibra brand - Air Filter Pod Adaptor (Black plastic). Part number - CALPA5. Aparrantly suits Subaru WRX 1994 - 1998 but lines up with our MAF perfectly. Cost me $22.96 but need to get some small bolts & nuts. They had chrome metal ones there but none that fit where I went, bit cheaper from memory but included bolts & nuts.

Ok peeps here's my attemp at the 380 Cold Air Induction. :D

As posted previously, I have put a flange adaptor onto the MAF & used a cut down silicon bend mated to the lower section of my failed Fujita CAI with the pod in the area where the resonator hides. All fits up perfectly just need to put some clamps on the silicon bend although I might try to make it black somehow first. :cool:

Nice job Fooz. Pity about the need for all the bends...a straight bit of pipe would provide more power, just got to find somewhere to house it.

Nice job Fooz. Pity about the need for all the bends...a straight bit of pipe would provide more power, just got to find somewhere to house it.
Well in effect they are mandrel bends so would be bugger all difference to a straight pipe IMHO. The pod filter has at least twice the surface area of the panel filter so should net the best gains ..... especially with FI :badgrin:

That's one sexy CAI.
Do you reckon it would be good to perforate the inner plastic guard for more air flow into the guard area?

That's one sexy CAI.
Do you reckon it would be good to perforate the inner plastic guard for more air flow into the guard area?
No no need there is a fairly large gap behind & below the front apron which will provide lots of cool air.

Ladies and Gentleman,

It appears that it is now possible to order from the US again with happy Australian based customers posting in another forum. The link is http://www.rchillmitsu.com

The part numbers if needed are:
Air intake "snorkel" component: MN156778
Front half of air filter box: MN180008

On the other forum one user got both parts for:

Subtotal: $85.94
Shipping: $45.00
Tax: $0.00
------------------------
Total: $130.94

No problem. The process is described in detail in the NZ Power thread but as that is about 30 pages long, I'll summarise:
The site is www.reyreece.com You have to set up an account first which is pretty easy. The part no. for the 90mm intake is MN156778 and is described as a 'Duct, air cleaner'. For an adittional $140 (?) you can also order the front half of the air box. I didnt so I had to file out the opening on the standard box which was easy & took about an hour...still gives a snug fit. Delivery was about 2 weeks. Good luck & PM me if you want more info.

Does filing out the original opening make any difference to warranty? I was going to buy the front half of the box as well but Its just wasted money.....

Does filing out the original opening make any difference to warranty? I was going to buy the front half of the box as well but Its just wasted money.....

No, either way will not affect warranty. It was part of the original design by Mitsubishi for the Galant engine (same as ours) but was dropped here for a smaller one - though is/was used in New Zealand apparently. So as people here have said, you're technically returning your intake to standard spec.
I opted for the front half box, instead of cutting, simply because I couldn't be bothered (plus wanted to retain the originals "just in case...").
And besides, once the new snorkel is fitted, to the untrained eye there is no difference between the two intakes. My car's been in for 2 dealer services thus far, and has recieved zero comments, so go for it!

Blue,

I intend to try it like it is - completely removed - for a few weeks, and I'll only cut it and put it back on if I think the intake air is too hot.

But if/when I do cut it I'll post pics.

KJ.

I just tried that then, went for a bit of a spin and wow. Combine with the no inlet duct (bit of an experiment on real cold nights like tonight) and the k&n the intake is snarly and deep and rather loud. Its staying off! Throttle response felt no different really but ill wait till the ecu notices

No, either way will not affect warranty. It was part of the original design by Mitsubishi for the Galant engine (same as ours) but was dropped here for a smaller one - though is/was used in New Zealand apparently. So as people here have said, you're technically returning your intake to standard spec.
I opted for the front half box, instead of cutting, simply because I couldn't be bothered (plus wanted to retain the originals "just in case...").
And besides, once the new snorkel is fitted, to the untrained eye there is no difference between the two intakes. My car's been in for 2 dealer services thus far, and has recieved zero comments, so go for it!

I agree with you however, i may opt to buy the whole thing as I'd like the originals should something happen...you never know aye

I agree with you however, i may opt to buy the whole thing as I'd like the originals should something happen...you never know aye

Yeah I bought the whole thing too, to keep the original intact parts aside - plus was too lazy to do all that cutting.
Hey, what are you saying in that other post? You took the snorkel off the airbox?

Yeah I bought the whole thing too, to keep the original intact parts aside - plus was too lazy to do all that cutting.
Hey, what are you saying in that other post? You took the snorkel off the airbox?

I removed the inlet duct for a bit of an experiment yes. It certainly made a huge noise difference, very deep. I have been running it like that for the last couple of weeks because of the cold weather. And I have certainly noticed an improvement. Im just wondering if the air going into it is all that warm because im sure a decent amount of cold air gets into that area regardless of the inlet duct or not

I removed the inlet duct for a bit of an experiment yes. It certainly made a huge noise difference, very deep. I have been running it like that for the last couple of weeks because of the cold weather. And I have certainly noticed an improvement. Im just wondering if the air going into it is all that warm because im sure a decent amount of cold air gets into that area regardless of the inlet duct or not

Yeah, I saw your video. I'll take mine off tomorrow and see what difference it makes.

Yeah, I saw your video. I'll take mine off tomorrow and see what difference it makes.

Nice. I noticed a small improvement, more so with the bottom resonator off as well. Should be interesting to see what you make of it, might not be all that different from running the galant intake.....

I removed the inlet duct for a bit of an experiment yes. It certainly made a huge noise difference, very deep. I have been running it like that for the last couple of weeks because of the cold weather. And I have certainly noticed an improvement. Im just wondering if the air going into it is all that warm because im sure a decent amount of cold air gets into that area regardless of the inlet duct or not

Mikey,

I tried the same thing a couple of months ago. Nice deep induction roar, and what felt like a small performance increase. Then again it might just have been a placebo effect, i.e. more noise 'feels' like more performance but not really proven.

With the question of cold air v warm air the worry for me wasn't that it would suck warm air while moving, little doubt that at anything over about 10km/h the air flow is enough to prevent it warming up from engine heat before it enters the air box, but I worried about what might happen when sitting idling at traffic lights for several minutes. Surely it would then suck up a lot of fairly warm air, which maybe isn't good thing, but if it's only idling what does it matter if the air is hot?

Anyway, the induction roar was a bit too loud, and I was still a little worried about the hot air thing, so I cut the end off the resonator and stuck it back on. No loss of performance (compared to no resonator at all) as far as I could tell.

Thinking about it again, few stock 'old time' cars (think carby Holdens & Fords) have any sort of CAI, they usually have a pancake filter sitting on top of the engine with a fairly rudimentary and short tube/snorkel sticking out of it. If sucking hot engine bay air while sitting at the lights caused a problem, no-one seemed to notice.

So this debate, and the similar 'pod filter sucks up hot engine bay air, must be bad' debate go on and on, with no definitive answer.

Maybe Alan J can set us straight?

KJ

Mikey,

I tried the same thing a couple of months ago. Nice deep induction roar, and what felt like a small performance increase. Then again it might just have been a placebo effect, i.e. more noise 'feels' like more performance but not really proven.

With the question of cold air v warm air the worry for me wasn't that it would suck warm air while moving, little doubt that at anything over about 10km/h the air flow is enough to prevent it warming up from engine heat before it enters the air box, but I worried about what might happen when sitting idling at traffic lights for several minutes. Surely it would then suck up a lot of fairly warm air, which maybe isn't good thing, but if it's only idling what does it matter if the air is hot?

Anyway, the induction roar was a bit too loud, and I was still a little worried about the hot air thing, so I cut the end off the resonator and stuck it back on. No loss of performance (compared to no resonator at all) as far as I could tell.

Thinking about it again, few stock 'old time' cars (think carby Holdens & Fords) have any sort of CAI, they usually have a pancake filter sitting on top of the engine with a fairly rudimentary and short tube/snorkel sticking out of it. If sucking hot engine bay air while sitting at the lights caused a problem, no-one seemed to notice.

So this debate, and the similar 'pod filter sucks up hot engine bay air, must be bad' debate go on and on, with no definitive answer.

Maybe Alan J can set us straight?

KJ

Fair call mate. I thought about sitting in traffic to certain extent but I don't live near the city so sitting in traffic for minutes at a time is very rare for my car. I have sat it in the driveway and let idle for the same time, taken it for a spin and no difference can really be felt. What damage on the motor that I guess it may inflict is as good a guess as the next guy. Anyway, I will not be having the inlet duct off during the warmer months as then I assume it would be doing nothing but reducing performance and economy. The way I look at it is that I have just created a very cheap crude Pod filter, and if they work on cars without doing any real damage I do not see why this would be doing any real damage either, if any. But as you said, this debate has gone on for years....who knows!!

I took my snorkel intake off today after I got home from work - still have to go out later to pick up my son (back roads only, but hopefully enough). I'm not expecting any big difference but will leave it off for a couple of days (lots of cold air at 5am!).

Wow, what a roar!!!
I recently drove a manual VRX with the low-resonator cut mod, but induction noise wasn't that loud (was noticeable though).
However, removing the snorkel all together makes for such a loud roar! It starts at the bottom of the range (ie around 2,000) and just gets louder and louder. Up around 5,000 it is unbelievably loud! But you're doing around 100, so cannot maintain the pace for long (unless on motorway, highway, etc).
Bottom line(s): I've only driven like this 1 day, and only a 10min round trip at that - so can not gauge performance increase... but it feels like no extra power (just a bucket-load of noise). Likewise, I have no idea of fuel economy etc (but suspect a rise due to foot-down-noise).
Will leave it for a few days, as said, but will eventually put the snorkel back on.

EDIT: On returning home I'm cruising around in 2nd gear with the induction noise rising and falling, rising and falling (sounds good in manual mode) - and I saw a few people turning their head as I go past (probably thinking, What the hell is that racket?!)

Wow, what a roar!!!
I recently drove a manual VRX with the low-resonator cut mod, but induction noise wasn't that loud (was noticeable though).
However, removing the snorkel all together makes for such a loud roar! It starts at the bottom of the range (ie around 2,000) and just gets louder and louder. Up around 5,000 it is unbelievably loud! But you're doing around 100, so cannot maintain the pace for long (unless on motorway, highway, etc).
Bottom line(s): I've only driven like this 1 day, and only a 10min round trip at that - so can not gauge performance increase... but it feels like no extra power (just a bucket-load of noise). Likewise, I have no idea of fuel economy etc (but suspect a rise due to foot-down-noise).
Will leave it for a few days, as said, but will eventually put the snorkel back on.

EDIT: On returning home I'm cruising around in 2nd gear with the induction noise rising and falling, rising and falling (sounds good in manual mode) - and I saw a few people turning their head as I go past (probably thinking, What the hell is that racket?!)

Yeah mate I had my friend take mine up the road so i could hear it from the outside, trust me you have to hear it from the outside its quite a noise. As far as power is concerned with just the snorkel off i didnt notice much, but combine with the resonator removed as well ive noticed it attacks the redline much more aggressively and not mention the induction noise is just unbelievably loud from the inside and bloody ridiculous from the outside, as i said before its a do it yourself pod filter in my opinion...

I did the pod filter setup where the pod was located in the front half of the inbox. You do hear the induction roar, but its not overly bad and once the ECU adjusts itself it is even quieter. I do suggest resetting the ECU for any performance modification you have done to your car IMHO.

I beleive the pod filter setup is the way to go if done correctly. I have gained a very noticeable difference in performance with the pod. I havnt even done the exhaust yet, soo very much looking forward to that :)

Wow, what a roar!!!
I recently drove a manual VRX with the low-resonator cut mod, but induction noise wasn't that loud (was noticeable though).
However, removing the snorkel all together makes for such a loud roar! It starts at the bottom of the range (ie around 2,000) and just gets louder and louder. Up around 5,000 it is unbelievably loud! But you're doing around 100, so cannot maintain the pace for long (unless on motorway, highway, etc).
Bottom line(s): I've only driven like this 1 day, and only a 10min round trip at that - so can not gauge performance increase... but it feels like no extra power (just a bucket-load of noise). Likewise, I have no idea of fuel economy etc (but suspect a rise due to foot-down-noise).
Will leave it for a few days, as said, but will eventually put the snorkel back on.

EDIT: On returning home I'm cruising around in 2nd gear with the induction noise rising and falling, rising and falling (sounds good in manual mode) - and I saw a few people turning their head as I go past (probably thinking, What the hell is that racket?!)

Grub,

Where you say "removing the snorkel all together", are you talking about the main / top mount snorkel (the subject of this thread) or are you talking about the resonator under the air box (or maybe even both!)?

As explained earlier, I drove around for a couple of weeks with the resonator removed and it was plenty loud, but I never took the main snorkel off.

But I did take the snorkel off my old TE 3.0 manual for a while a few years ago, and it was way loud. That was with extractors and the Lukey LR2779 rear muff though.

KJ.

Grub,

Where you say "removing the snorkel all together", are you talking about the main / top mount snorkel (the subject of this thread) or are you talking about the resonator under the air box (or maybe even both!)?

As explained earlier, I drove around for a couple of weeks with the resonator removed and it was plenty loud, but I never took the main snorkel off.

But I did take the snorkel off my old TE 3.0 manual for a while a few years ago, and it was way loud. That was with extractors and the Lukey LR2779 rear muff though.

KJ.

Hi, yeah I took off just the top snorkel (the part sourced from US Galant) - remove 2 plastic screws and pull it off! I've been unable to remove the lower part (except for removing 1 screw) - wouldn't mind, but far too lazy to get a trolley jack, bla bla bla.
PS I also had a TF Magna, manual 3.0L with Pacemakers, Lukey exhaust - very loud nice car (sigh).

Hi, yeah I took off just the top snorkel (the part sourced from US Galant) - remove 2 plastic screws and pull it off! I've been unable to remove the lower part (except for removing 1 screw) - wouldn't mind, but far too lazy to get a trolley jack, bla bla bla.
PS I also had a TF Magna, manual 3.0L with Pacemakers, Lukey exhaust - very loud nice car (sigh).

If you are a person who can never have enough intake noise (me) I highly suggest taking off the lower resonator all together along with the snorkel. Its fantastic!

OK DUMB A$$ question

MN156778 is the part no for the snorkel apart from the 380/galant would they use this same part no for a different model and modify it or would it be the same

As I have found that the MN156778 might have being fitted to outlanders as well http://www.upullit.com.au/NIMBUS-OUTLANDER.htm
Any one smarter than me know the answer???

well received my intake from that ebay guy today. now have to track down the front half of the airbox. fun fun tonights job, did we ever get a working source from the US? i try to follow the threads but is a little hard to keep up

DAMMIT I just went to buy one(two left) and when I logged in someone had already brought them. Dammit!

well received my intake from that ebay guy today. now have to track down the front half of the airbox. fun fun tonights job, did we ever get a working source from the US? i try to follow the threads but is a little hard to keep up

just use a knife to cut it out

just use a knife to cut it out

i want to keep original so that i can put it back if i feel the need to in the future...

fair enough stormie

now the knife cutting is pretty hard going what kind of blade and what was the other way people cut it out ??

try heating the knife with a blowtorch then try it . will have to do a bit at a time and keep reheating. Alternatively go to jaycar and get a gas soldering iron with hot knife attachment for about 40 bux for the kit and im sure you will have a purpose for it in the future

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=TS1112&keywords=soldering+gas&form=KEYWORD

thats what i did and it took 10 mins

hot knife through plastic brilliant

I have the intake off ATM and the induction noise is awesome almost intoxicating

DAMMIT I just went to buy one(two left) and when I logged in someone had already brought them. Dammit!

they must have relisted it cos showing 8 in stock now

mine came in two days that is the best I have ever had from someone on EBAY

Sorry mrgibblets-wa think that was me who got last one,missed out last round ,will see how much this improves it,first mod ,its started!

All fitted and sounds nice and raspy when accelerating

new lot of intakes are back on e-bay,better get in quick if anything like last time they will go quick once everyone finds out.Mines been mailed today so ive been told ,cant wait to put it on and see how it goes.check link above they had 7 at this point.

OK, just finished reading some other threads and checking E-bay, does anyone know who this guy is as he/her is using this site as his ref as he also mentions the K&N and the Berklee muffler.

OK, just finished reading some other threads and checking E-bay, does anyone know who this guy is as he/her is using this site as his ref as he also mentions the K&N and the Berklee muffler.

that berklee muffler isnt a secret only people on this site know about,. When i got mine done the rep was there and he said mitsubishi used that actually muffler during testing but failed "euro emmissions" testing so they went for the one that are now fitted to all 380s.
As for the K&N well that cant be a secret either as its designed for the US galant and everyone on US forums use it for their galants which is essentially the same car
Maybe they have used this site but im just saying 380 mods are pretty common knowledge now and their are multiple other forums that list the same mods

I know he lives 5 minutes down the road from me, and also travels away for work.

My guess, he visits NZ for work and brings them back.

It arrived today,only bought it yesterday,2 hours later, on and sounds veeeery nice,gunna wait for mrs to get home (so she can look after kids) and then take her for a spin(car that is )already feel better throttle response just stationary so all looks good for promising result

Thanks for all you 380 guys help with my mods ,i have just installed my new 90mm galant intake and its awesome straight away ,major differance,also from all peoples advice i have ordered k&n filter and rear berklee muffler is being fitted tuesday ,does the rear towbar have to be removed to fit pipe ??unshore if i should remove it before installation ,great mods at a reasonable price thanks all

Thanks for all you 380 guys help with my mods ,i have just installed my new 90mm galant intake and its awesome straight away ,major differance,also from all peoples advice i have ordered k&n filter and rear berklee muffler is being fitted tuesday ,does the rear towbar have to be removed to fit pipe ??unshore if i should remove it before installation ,great mods at a reasonable price thanks all

Darryl,

My experience is that the Berklee BS0655 rear muffler will not fit if you have a factory heavy duty tow bar fitted.
It's a very big and long muffler, and it won't fit between the suspension and the front edge of the tow bar.

It is possible that the Berklee BS0655 will fit if you have a 'light duty' or non-factory tow bar, and I know of one member who is about to test out this theory (but not for another two weeks or so).

If you find that you need to have the tow bar removed then it's not a job for the home mechanic and the best bet is to get the exhaust shop to remove it as part of the job of fitting the Berklee. But my guess is that it will cost you somewhere around $160 based on two hours at $80 per hour. Or you might be able to talk the exhaust shop into a set price such as $100 or less as part of the price for the whole job.

KJ.

My 90mm intake arrived today. Will probably have a crack at installing it tonight. I'll order a K&N on next payday, maybe a muffler payday after that, then I'll be laughing.

had my snorkel and airbox arrive from www.rchillmitsu.com this morning..
very happy with the easy online service , and it arrived to adelaide in under a week..

$13.70 snorkel
$72.24 airbox..
$50 freight.

i didn't want to modify my airbox so i bought the other one..
i thought for a few more bucks i'd get the whole thing from the US , rather than buying the $85 rip off snorkel from ebay and having to butcher my airbox.

If you worked out the convertion just for snorkel $13.70 and I was quoted $50 for delivery, just for the snorkel, worked out less than $5 differance to by it of e-bay and got it the very next day,to me quite resonable.And once you put on the new snorkel you wont be wanting to go back to the original thats for sure,as you will be having to much fun.

Hi Bradgt
I checked out http://www.rchillmitsu.com/ for the airbox and snorkle but cant find it in the online parts list. Any help please

Wow.

Installed the snorkel this morning. No K&N or anything. Wow. The throttle response is magic! I cant wait to see what a difference the K&N makes.

Only ran into one problem - LPG install. One of the rubber hoses from my LPG system runs behind the airbox right over the top of the rear restraining bolt. Had to remove a bolt holding the tube in place just to get access to the rear airbox bolt. What a pain.

Apart from that, pretty straight forward. Took me about 45 minutes hacking away it my box with a stanley knife, but have a nice snug fit now.

Just took it out for a 45 minute run, great fun leaving it in 1st and goosing it then letting it off, then goosing it etc etc. Also got on our local expressway and entered it at about 40k's in second and just planted the boot. Jumped up to 120 before I knew it and was only in third. The thing just wanted to keep going, and I was on LPG at the time.

Anyone who is thinking of doing it, DO IT NOW!!!!

+1 to what Chrisv said.

Hi Bradgt
I checked out http://www.rchillmitsu.com/ for the airbox and snorkle but cant find it in the online parts list. Any help please


+1 to what Chrisv said.

as in you cant find the part number. may i ask why you want to purchase one of these? according you your profile you have a 3 gen magna, this intake is specifically for the 380. so unless you have one of those aswell it really doent apply to you.

Hi Bradgt
I checked out http://www.rchillmitsu.com/ for the airbox and snorkle but cant find it in the online parts list. Any help please

For those that cannot find the part numbers, they are:

Air intake "snorkel" component: MN156778
Front half of air filter box: MN180008

I recommend purchasing from the US and not the ebay seller as if you have both parts you can easily back out the change if worried about going to your dealer for a warranty claim on air flow sensors or similar.

I purchased both parts a year ago and am happy to have the ability to back out the change if I ever need to.

My ride is a 380 GT .
Do I need the airbox or not. I dont want to cut the box to fit the new snorkle

to fit the snorkel you have 2 options
a) get hold of the front half air box part number as quoted by s311_bvm MN180008 I got a quote for this part from my local mitsu dealer - 150 ish otherwise lookoverseas, probably not gonna be much cheaper once you add postage
b) cut the original one out bigger to make it fit

im going local option a with mine.
(im from the more money than sense group:P)

chrisv , you just answered your own quesiton...
if you don't want to cut your airbox , you'll need to buy the front part of the US airbox = MN180008

thats what i did , because i didnt want to destory my factory airbox , and for any warranty issues i can just throw the original intake back on the car, and not have an issue with the local dealers...
i wasn't wanting to argue the point if my car had to go back for any major engine warranty , so for a few extra dollars to get the airbox aswell , rather than just the snorkel from local ebay seller , i thought the airbox option was a better idea..

front of airbox = MN180008
intake = MN156778

on the rchillmitsu website , you make a login account , then go to the online parts section , type in the part numbers and your done..
pay the $85.94 with paypal , then tomorrow you'll get a paypal request for the $50 freight fee , and you pay that..
they then give you a tracking number for the courier , and a few days later it's all in the box at your door step..

couldn't be easier..

I personally dont think a mechanic would see many 380s coming through the door to make a comparison plus the same car is available in NZ with the same 90mm intake

so warranty would never be a concern IMO

I personally dont think a mechanic would see many 380s coming through the door to make a comparison plus the same car is available in NZ with the same 90mm intake

so warranty would never be a concern IMO

Yeah you're probably right, but it's a small price to pay for his "peace of mind"and the power gained!

I personally dont think a mechanic would see many 380s coming through the door to make a comparison plus the same car is available in NZ with the same 90mm intake

so warranty would never be a concern IMO

Correct.

Even if you throw away the original, it's not going to take much to get another.

Just thought I'd post an update on my snorkel-less intake experiement (which I started on page 19).
Two weeks ago I decided to take off my intake snorkel as it was suggested this makes for a more noticeable difference than just the chopped lower resonator (something that was hotly discussed a few months ago). As the snorkel is much easier to remove I thought I'd give it a go and gauge what differences would to be had.
So, after 2 weeks and 2 tanks-loads, I found that performance and economy are unchanged (which I kinda suspected). The car feels pretty-much the same as before... except for that roar! And I noticed I had turned more than a few heads when I'd put the foot down, as the car now sounds so unlike a tame 380 - so I reckon I'll leave it off for a while and see how it goes (it's sitting on the back seat just in case).

yea boiii got me 90mm intake now and a knfilter. Much better responsive drive. Next is a smaller lukey muffler for some noise and extractors. Then some wheels and my audio system back in after I buy tons of these LOC's

I had a new muffler fitted yesterday. The mechanic was great as I told him what I wanted and he tried a couple first.Refitted the original tip. The sound is awsome just what I wanted a nice deep burble with no ressonance on the highway. I thought I would try being snorkeless and removed it. I found no noticable difference and couldnt hear any roar at all.

I had a new muffler fitted yesterday. The mechanic was great as I told him what I wanted and he tried a couple first.Refitted the original tip. The sound is awsome just what I wanted a nice deep burble with no ressonance on the highway. I thought I would try being snorkeless and removed it. I found no noticable difference and couldnt hear any roar at all.

Hi Chrisv,looking at doing this mod too,where here in SA did you get that done?What muffler did you end up using and what was the cost?Sounds like you found a top guy to use.Cheers.Mark

exhaust wizard Gawler 85222614. $185 allup. Great guy Richard Muthy

Thanks mate,did you end up using the Berklee muffler mentioned in this forum?

dont know but it sounds great

I had a new muffler fitted yesterday. The mechanic was great as I told him what I wanted and he tried a couple first.Refitted the original tip. The sound is awsome just what I wanted a nice deep burble with no ressonance on the highway. I thought I would try being snorkeless and removed it. I found no noticable difference and couldnt hear any roar at all.

Yeah? That's strange. I assumed you tried most/all the rev range. For me the sound difference was instant, and never improved or faltered... Perhaps for whatever reason, it won't work for you (don't understand why though). Mine's still off.

That res tank at the bottom of the air box. Whats the go with that? Can we block it?

That res tank at the bottom of the air box. Whats the go with that? Can we block it?

For your answer, check out this link:
http://www.aussiemagna.com/forums/showthread.php?t=65965

Latest update on my removed snorkel intake experiment.
In the last fuel tank, my economy rose (ie worsened), from low 10s to low 11s with almost the same driving style. On open roads, like motorways, it wouldn't creep down at all.
Considering I did this almost 3 weeks ago, I guess the computer has been adjusting to the change and is now showing the newer reading.
So - I'll leave it as is for another tank (having just filled up today) and see what happens. If the economy continues to look bad, I'll put the snorkel back.

Hi Grubco, yeah I reckon your mileage would go up.I think because your drawing in very hot air from the engine bay and not cool air via the snorkel.Stick your head under the bed sheets next time you fart and see how well you run!:bowrofl:

Latest update on my removed snorkel intake experiment.
In the last fuel tank, my economy rose (ie worsened), from low 10s to low 11s with almost the same driving style. On open roads, like motorways, it wouldn't creep down at all.
Considering I did this almost 3 weeks ago, I guess the computer has been adjusting to the change and is now showing the newer reading.
So - I'll leave it as is for another tank (having just filled up today) and see what happens. If the economy continues to look bad, I'll put the snorkel back.

yes must be due to hot air getting drawn in, get a larger galant snorkel off ebay or whatever. Wth the bigger snorkel my fuel consumption increased for first couple of tanks until the ECU adapted i guess. Now my fuel consumption have got better by about .5 to .8 litres for 100kms. I also have k&n and berklee straight thru rear muffler tho.

yes must be due to hot air getting drawn in, get a larger galant snorkel off ebay or whatever. Wth the bigger snorkel my fuel consumption increased for first couple of tanks until the ECU adapted i guess. Now my fuel consumption have got better by about .5 to .8 litres for 100kms. I also have k&n and berklee straight thru rear muffler tho.

Yes I have the Galant intake already, I just pulled the snorkel off (as people were talking about chopping that lower resonator, then 1 guy (MikeySX?) removed both the lower resonator and upper snorkel and noticed the massive induction roar it made - which I can verify!).
I am aware of the ever-likely hot air scenerio, but figured I'd get more cooler air than hot, as I commute to/from work at 5am/3pm on motorways with little or no traffic (I was especially hoping for single-digit temps at 5am).
And I also have the K&N and Berklee muffler, same as you.

Latest update on my removed snorkel intake experiment.
In the last fuel tank, my economy rose (ie worsened), from low 10s to low 11s with almost the same driving style. On open roads, like motorways, it wouldn't creep down at all.
Considering I did this almost 3 weeks ago, I guess the computer has been adjusting to the change and is now showing the newer reading.
So - I'll leave it as is for another tank (having just filled up today) and see what happens. If the economy continues to look bad, I'll put the snorkel back.

I do have to say I find it very interesting your fuel economy worsened as mine has improved slightly since taking both the snorkel and the resonator off. Ill be getting a muffler fitted tomorrow (though not a berklee model as most 380 owners on here suggest) so hopefully I can find some more gains in fuel economy that way. Also interesting considering I am further north than you, which suggests my car would be running slightly hotter as well......

I found when I took my snorkel off I was at WOT [wide open throttle] all the time just so I could hear that sweet sweet music:drool: The induction noise can be a powerfull aphrodisiac to us middle aged men, I bet this is why your using more gas.

I do have to say I find it very interesting your fuel economy worsened as mine has improved slightly since taking both the snorkel and the resonator off. Ill be getting a muffler fitted tomorrow (though not a berklee model as most 380 owners on here suggest) so hopefully I can find some more gains in fuel economy that way. Also interesting considering I am further north than you, which suggests my car would be running slightly hotter as well......

On the previous tank I was using manual more often, but still trying to adhere to regular driving pattern (though maybe a quick blast here and there). So far on this current tank I'm still seeing low-mid 10s, which is inline with my usual economy - and no manual driving at the moment either.
I heard your muffler... I sometimes consider changing mine for something of a slightly deeper note but don't want the overall extra volume it would result in (my wife already complained of the ~4.50am start-up rumble from the garage with the Berklee).

I found when I took my snorkel off I was at WOT [wide open throttle] all the time just so I could hear that sweet sweet music:drool: The induction noise can be a powerfull aphrodisiac to us middle aged men, I bet this is why your using more gas.
Yeah, I wouldn't rule that out (the using more gas). It is a sweet sound. If the economy looks okay, I'll leave it off... at least until summer (there's gotta be some advantage of this freezing whether!).

On the previous tank I was using manual more often, but still trying to adhere to regular driving pattern (though maybe a quick blast here and there). So far on this current tank I'm still seeing low-mid 10s, which is inline with my usual economy - and no manual driving at the moment either.
I heard your muffler... I sometimes consider changing mine for something of a slightly deeper note but don't want the overall extra volume it would result in (my wife already complained of the ~4.50am start-up rumble from the garage with the Berklee).

Yeah mate I hear you. My fuel economy just after doing the quick mods was horrible. But thats because I couldnt get enough of the noise. I was considering a berklee model but when i was offered the powerflow for a decent price I thought it would be rude not to give it a try, next step is to dyno it and see if its all made any sort of improvement, and going by your dyno results on youtube I dare say I should see an improvement. Just wish I got some power figures before modifying...

Yeah mate I hear you. My fuel economy just after doing the quick mods was horrible. But thats because I couldnt get enough of the noise. I was considering a berklee model but when i was offered the powerflow for a decent price I thought it would be rude not to give it a try, next step is to dyno it and see if its all made any sort of improvement, and going by your dyno results on youtube I dare say I should see an improvement. Just wish I got some power figures before modifying...

Yeah that's everyone's regret. It seems pointless to dyno a stock standard car... until you've done some mods and what see the real gains. I didn't do it either.

Yeah that's everyone's regret. It seems pointless to dyno a stock standard car... until you've done some mods and what see the real gains. I didn't do it either.

Ah well, just have to find a stock as a rock 380 on here and demand they dyno it :happy:

Ah well, just have to find a stock as a rock 380 on here and demand they dyno it :happy:

People demanded me to dyno my car when I first joined up lol

I think I have heard they are around 130kw atw stock. In my opinion, its not worth putting a stock car on a dyno (I think a lot of the members would agree with that).

(my wife already complained of the ~4.50am start-up rumble from the garage with the Berklee).

Haha!

I get the same.

"can't you leave the car outside overnight?"

Wh-a-a-a-t? :gtfo:

People demanded me to dyno my car when I first joined up lol

I think I have heard they are around 130kw atw stock. In my opinion, its not worth putting a stock car on a dyno (I think a lot of the members would agree with that).

I think more likely 125kw for the auto.

People demanded me to dyno my car when I first joined up lol

I think I have heard they are around 130kw atw stock. In my opinion, its not worth putting a stock car on a dyno (I think a lot of the members would agree with that).

It would be completely pointless when standard and not doing anything to the car yes, but if you plan on comparing standard to modified it makes sense I think. Im going to work off 125-130 as an estimate...

Haha!

I get the same.

"can't you leave the car outside overnight?"

Wh-a-a-a-t? :gtfo:
I used to let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up, until the revs drop... but I only got to do that about twice with the new muffler before the complaints came in.

Yeah, I haven't worried about dynoing my stocker either. Did a number of 0-100 sprints to get an idea of before and after.Haven't fitted anything yet,but have the filter,snorkel,thermobloc and an Exede waiting to go. Exhaust is still undecided yet.

Yeah, I haven't worried about dynoing my stocker either. Did a number of 0-100 sprints to get an idea of before and after.Haven't fitted anything yet,but have the filter,snorkel,thermobloc and an Exede waiting to go. Exhaust is still undecided yet.

Actually thats an interesting topic right there. What 0-100 times have you been getting mate?

on average about 7.85. Getting off the line quick is a bit tricky without to much wheelspin.I think under better conditions it would have been maybe a tenth or 2 quicker.If these cars could hook up on hard accelaration they would be a fair bit quicker. L.S.D from factory would have been sweet and not unreasonable in the VRX and GT.

on average about 7.85. Getting off the line quick is a bit tricky without to much wheelspin.I think under better conditions it would have been maybe a tenth or 2 quicker.If these cars could hook up on hard accelaration they would be a fair bit quicker. L.S.D from factory would have been sweet and not unreasonable in the VRX and GT.

You don't know how right you are. Personal experience at Willowbank - against a Gen 3 I lost four car lengths and only started making an impact from 120kmh. The weight of the 380 kills fast take offs and massive torque, weight transfer to the rear and lack of traction does the rest.

Knotched,did you have your 245's fitted at the drags or the stockers?

You don't know how right you are. Personal experience at Willowbank - against a Gen 3 I lost four car lengths and only started making an impact from 120kmh. The weight of the 380 kills fast take offs and massive torque, weight transfer to the rear and lack of traction does the rest.

That I have also proven having a few head to heads with my mates VE sv6 ute with the 6 speed manual. Fall behind ever so slightly on take off but once the 380 gets into its stride it comes back with punch. Just wish I could launch hard without wheelspin!!

on average about 7.85. Getting off the line quick is a bit tricky without to much wheelspin.I think under better conditions it would have been maybe a tenth or 2 quicker.If these cars could hook up on hard accelaration they would be a fair bit quicker. L.S.D from factory would have been sweet and not unreasonable in the VRX and GT.

Thats about right for the 380 isnt it? I have done a few but I really need a proper satellite based timer to get a proper reading. Agreed on the LSD too, mine begs for it

Knotched,did you have your 245's fitted at the drags or the stockers?

245/40s on the 19s. Took out the spare (weighs about 20kg!!) and half a tank. it was lot more difficult than I expected and I did badly :redface: Next time I'll try much gentler techniques off the line.
EDIT: I think the 380, if anyone was really seriously trying to get a good time, would benefit from a Chisholm type suspension makeover. This means extremely hard springs in the rear (300-400lbs) which would stop most of the weight transfer. That would be the secret, methinks.


That I have also proven having a few head to heads with my mates VE sv6 ute with the 6 speed manual. Fall behind ever so slightly on take off but once the 380 gets into its stride it comes back with punch. Just wish I could launch hard without wheelspin!!

Actually, that's a very good result. I haven't had the opportunity against an SV6 from a standing start. The SV6 has a very tall 2nd gear which gives the 380 a good chance.

Actually, that's a very good result. I haven't had the opportunity against an SV6 from a standing start. The SV6 has a very tall 2nd gear which gives the 380 a good chance.

Yeah mate I was pretty suprised myself. Afterall though the new commodore utes are no lightweights and the 6 speeder is geared extremely tall. Made me pretty happy with the 380 anyway, have to give it another go now I've fitted a performance muffler...see if it helps at all. With a bit of luck I can get him off the line too

Does anyone know who the latest supplier is for the 90mm intake? It seems to be changing weekly lol

Does anyone know who the latest supplier is for the 90mm intake? It seems to be changing weekly lol

You can get from RCHill US mitsubishi dealer site but they have no stock at the moment iam told. Or also a seller of them in australia on ebay. None on ebay at the moment as the seller is apparently "waiting on more stock- next week" is the response my mate got. Might just ahev to wait until one of them gets more stock or find them somewhere else